Volvo - 240 :: Engine Idles High For 3 To 5 Seconds And Then Immediately Dies On Cold Start
Feb 26, 2013
A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
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I have an 02 X, and it's been giving us trouble for almost 2 years now. We've babied it along, but it is acting so crazy now. Here's the current weirdness...
Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.
We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)
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I just got a myTouch 4G from T-Mobile and although it connects though Bluetooth, it immediately disconnects after a few seconds. My old cell phone connected just fine.
T-Mobile blames Volvo. Where do you think the problem lies? I'm guessing the 4G phone has new features related to Bluetooth so perhaps the car's Bluetooth software needs updating? You'd think the new phone would be backward compatible but oh well.
My XC60's Bluetooth version is 5.00.17L. Looking at the Volvo's Bluetooth page, the compatibility test dates are mostly October 2010 so it seems the vehicle's Bluetooth may need an update (the myTouch 4G won't connect to a 2011 Audi Q5 either). [URL] .....
I sent an email to Volvo customer service asking them to do a Bluetooth software update that supports new 4G phones (if that's the problem).
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I have a 1995 volvo 850 t5. Basically, the engine is making a clicking sound. Immediately on start up, which continues when i drive. In saying that, I've been only doing 5 minute drives so perhaps its not running long enough to go away.
So today, i started it. Car starts ticking. The ticking is like 3 or 4 seconds apart between clicks, and the idle seems to change slightly each time it clicks.
I checked the oil and it was a little low. So i put 2 litres in, and then i ran the car (idling) to see if it would go away. Just for a few minutes. It did seem to go away, but then i gave it a little rev and it came back.
So in summary, clicks on start, idle and while driving. Idle changes slightly between clicks. And there is a few seconds between clicks.
Just checked it again. If i leave it idling the click stops but as soon as there are more revs, it comes back. And the noise is almost like the click of a switch (like when your kettle finishes boiling and the switch flicks off. Not the best comparison but similar).
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Iv got this escort from my sister, i assume it has been hardly maintained considering the... state. I bought it because she was tired of dealing with the problem... driving, it will turn off. She said it got to the point where she just stopped driving it, although it only happened twice. It began when first time it shuttered then died. Took air filter off and it only ran it like that to get it home. Now it doesn't run but for a few seconds even without air filter, so Its the best choice to leave in.
Anyway, I've replaced:
-PCV Valve
-Fuel Filter
-Some dry-rotted hoses
-I didn't replace it, but i cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor in the intake.
I've tested alternator and batter, both are good. I tried fuel treatment. Being honest this is the extent of my.. automotive understanding. But Im fairly certain it is a fuel system problem.
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It's a 05 Kia Rio. I've recently put a bit of work into it due to a few issues which were fuel related, namely replacing the fuel filter/pump. It also has brand new spark plugs. That solved the issue that originally put it on blocks for a few months and it ran fine for the past few weeks.
Today I went outside to drive to work and got the symptoms in the title. I know it's not a spark issue because it does start, and I used it on accessory to air up my tires this morning.
I'm just not sure where to go next. I've done a bit of searching and have found recommendations for checking the grounds and the distributor cap.
While running at rough idle, depressing the accelerator makes it die faster, rather than keeping it running. It rained last night and this morning. It's about 70 outside instead of the 80-90 it's been the last few weeks. No check engine light, but I've only tried to start it about 10 times.
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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I have a 1991 Chevy Cavalier. It usually runs fine, but recently the weather has been colder and it is having issues when I start it in the morning. Granted, I live in Florida so "cold" is only in the 40s. The car will start, but then it immediately dies. I had taken to a mechanic (a family friend) and he said that it was fine the whole time he had it and didn't recommend any repairs. It was running fine for about 2 weeks and now it is doing it again. It does appear to only be doing this when it is cold out, because the issue began when we got our first cold snap.
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I have a 95 Volvo 850 2.2 L (non-turbo.) I recently replaced the fuel pump, and filter. Now when I try to start the engine, it turns over and sputters before it dies. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and try again with the same results and the same with a longer wait time due to having to charge my battery. I have checked the fuel lines and they seem to be clear, up to the fuel rail. I also checked the plugs and although they need to be replaced, after sanding and re-gaping them, there is plenty of spark. The plug wires and distributor cap are fairly new, and the points look good. So the only problem I see as logical, is the fuel rail, pressure regulator, and injectors. I have bled the fuel rail at the shrader valve, and I am getting little to no fuel from it. I want to remove the injectors and rail, and check out the regulator along with the rest. But how do I tell if the regulator is good, and what is the best way to clean injectors so they will at least last till I can replace them with new?
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I've got a 1994 Camry V6 that I am swapping transmissions from automatic to manual. Before the swap, the engine ran fine and started first time every time. Now that I have everything back together, the car will take many times of 10 seconds or longer cranking to be able to start. Once it does start, it idles very high and within 15 seconds will die. If, during the time it is running, you touch the gas at all, the car instantly dies. I've got CEL's for CPS and TPS. I have replaced both sensors numerous times, checking with a voltmeter they are within spec as are the wires, I have replaced the ECU and wiring harness.
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My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
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I got my first truck about a months ago 2001 ford f150 v8 5.4.. has 155,000 seems to run good.. but about 3 days ago i started to notice that when I am in my driveway ill start it let it idle for say a min or so... then when I go to put it in reverse it will idle up for a lil bit.. it didn't do that till about 3-4 days ago.. other them that everything is fine.. should i get the transmission fluid flushed??
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My Highlander with only 72K miles has an intermittent problem. I start it and it immediately dies. To get it going, as soon as engines starts I push and hold accelerator at about 1500 rpm for about 3 minutes, then ease off accelerator and generally no problem for the rest of the day. Been to regular mechanic with it twice, but car doesn't do it then. May go several weeks without this happening, then will have a series of these episodes. Not battery. Not throttle body. Mechanic doesn't think it's the type of gas being used.
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My truck will turn over very strong but will not crank. it cranked one time then died immediatly. 30 min later it cranked and ran for about 5 min then died again. Alternator, fuel pump.
Gas v10 motor, full of gas, new spark plugs.
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I have a weird issue - I think. I recently purchased a 2005 Volvo XC90 V8 with about 150k miles. The car runs great and is really in good shape. The one issue I have is that sometimes the car wont start. There is just a clicking noise when turning the key. This only seems to happen immediately after the car is stopped. If I wait 10-15 minutes the car starts up just fine.
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I have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
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I'm struggling with an intermittent (of course) issue where, esp. if cold, I can't start my car unless I give it lots of gas. If I take my foot off the gas at all, it will stall, which means I drive this automatic two-footed (one foot on brake, one on gas) , giving it lots of gas at all times, including when stopped. After about 10 minutes it is fine, and is then good for the rest of the day. My trusted Volvo-spscific repair shop has tried replacing booster pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator (both indicated by engine codes) and new plugs. The end result is I've got $500 into the car that does seem to run better when it starts, but the original issue is unsolved. I was thinking something is sticking with a cold start, or idle speed is incorrect, but can't figure it out. Seems like it should be an easy fix.
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I am completely lost now, spent alot of time trying to get the pulley off to replace the bearing, finally got that done, turned on the car, and it dies almost instantly unless i have my foot on the gas.... it runs really rough until i rev it up to at least 2K.
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I have a 1999 Camry. I just spent $1250 (half of it borrowed) to have some basic maintenance, diagnosis, and serious repair work done. More than half of the serious (translate: expensive) work involved replacing a charcoal canister and installing a thermostat. The check engine light had been on for at least 10 years. And I had a gas pumping problem by way of the pump shutting off after only pumping a few cents worth of gas. Needless to say it was a royal PIA to fuel up my car. As far as the check engine light, a friend would clear the code so I could have it inspected.
Then more than 2 years a shop took out my thermostat because a hose had sprung a leak and they rigged up a temporary hose until they could order the part. I never went back because I couldn't afford it. I know it wouldn't have been a terribly expensive repair, but at the time it was more than I could afford. So for almost 3 years I have driven with out a thermostat and also couldn't get it inspected.
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Today I drove it about 12 miles from my home, made 3 back-to-back errand stops of not more than 15-20 minutes each and everything seemed fine. Nothing felt or sounded out of the ordinary. Then when I was leaving my 3rd stop, the car would not start unless I gave it gas. And it wouldn't stay started unless I gave it gas. In other words, the car would go, but as soon as I would take my foot off the gas to press the brake to put it in gear, the engine would die. There was no problem restarting it as long as I gave it gas, but I could not let off the accelerator at all or it would immediately die.
The car would go just fine, but if I let off the gas for any reason, even if I was driving 40 miles an hour on the street and let up completely off on the accelerator, the rpms would immediately drop to 0 and the engine would immediately die---no noise, no shuttering, no nothing---just die. This problem occurred almost the whole 12 miles back to my home. Then when I got about a mile and a half away, it went back to behaving completely normal and did not die when I let off the gas.
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I have an '06 trailblazer with the 5.3 engine. When it's cold outside Freezing and below. The engine will start. Run for three seconds. And shutdown. Pass lock light stays solid. The engine won't crank for about a minute. And it'll do the same thing. If it's about 40 or above. No problems.
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Lately I have noticed when I start my car in the morning it idles around 800 for about 30 seconds then levels out. No smoke or anything from exhaust. Then after driving for a bit and coming to a stop it does te same thing. It's very intermittent but have noticed it seems to be getting worse. Timing belt n water pump was done about 5 k ago. All new coils done under recall. With new plugs. Air filter was done n oil changed every 3k.. It's a 1.8t aww by the way with 97k on it.
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