Volvo - 240 :: 1992 - Idle Very Fast
Dec 31, 2012
Car has begun to idle very fast ( comes and goes ) ( 1992 240 ) ....
View 2 RepliesCar has begun to idle very fast ( comes and goes ) ( 1992 240 ) ....
View 2 Replies1988 245 DL, 240,000 miles.
My idle is at around 1200. It should be 750. If I take off the flame trap the idle drops. The flame trap is not clogged and there is good vacuum pressure on the small hose. After replacing my cat the numbers went way down on the tail pipe emissions.
So my flame trap appears functional and not clogged but it causes high idle.
1992 Celica with about 130k miles.
The brake pedal pulsates at a rate directly proportional to how fast the car is going. How violent the pulsing is depends on how hard you apply the pedal but even at less than 5mph and even when barely applying the brake you can feel it in the pedal.
I've had this before on other vehicles and the fix was swapping rotors. Rotors are cheap enough for it so I changed the front and then the rear with no real change from either swap. As part of the swap I wire brushed the face of the hubs to make sure there wasn't rust buildup on them. Replaced a wheel bearing on the passenger front as it had some play in it. Swapped tie rod ends as they had some play. Bled brakes enough to refresh the fluid.
The changes have made it drive a little better (at least I like to think they did) but the pedal is almost completely unchanged.
I think that to feel it in the pedal it has to be an irregularity in the rotor or something else causing the piston in the caliper to move.
I own a 1992 Volvo 240 and most of my speakers are blown. I want to get new speakers (all 4 of them) but I don't want some old salvaged Volvo 240 speakers. I want to buy some nice new speakers. I'm new when it comes to anything involving changing something in a car, so what speakers will fit and easily take place of those speakers where I won't have to do any unnecessary cutting or modify in order to get them to fit (I don't want holes also).
View 19 RepliesI just picked up this old 240 wagon with 230k miles on it for next to nothing due to a transmission issue. It stays stuck in 1st gear for about the first 15 minutes of drive time and then starts shifting perfectly after that. I took it to a transmission specialist and he thought the valve body may be sticking. I also had an experienced volvo tech adjust the kick down cable but so far its still having the same issue.
View 5 Replies1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
Have swapped the following parts from my 92 240 into my 93 240 without any change in my stalling issue:
AMM, coil, ignition module, fuel relay, spun all fuses and checked hose between throttle body and AMM for holes.
Was super hot in NM today and after driving the car about 1/2 an hour it stalled and would not restart until it cooled off for about 20 minutes.
It doesn't seem to matter what level the fuel tank is. Stalled the other day when it was full.
My "bulb out" dashboard indicator came on and after checking all lights I could not find a burnt out bulb. I took the car to the local dealer and they told me the "bulb failure relay" was bad and needed replacing. I decided to try and replace it myself but so far I'm not doing to good.
I found this picture on another website and also read that the realy is permantly mounted to the relay board. Also, when I looked at pictures of the replacement relay they lok nothing like the original.
So now I'm wondering how the heck do you take the old relay out and get the new one in that doesn't at all look like the original?
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I own a 1992 Volvo 740 wagon, non-turbo. Super solid car up until a month ago when it developed a grinding sound and vibration when slowing down from 15-0 mph. There is no noise or pulsating at any other speed when I apply the brakes. This happens with tranny in N or D. I replaced the front rotors and pads about a month before this started happening.
I suspected the rear brakes so I also replaced the rotors and pads but I was still getting that grinding/ vibration. The next thing was to replace the hub/bearing assembly, I only did the drivers side because I banged it up pretty bad when replacing the rotors. This also had no effect on the grinding. I also noticed that when driving at moderate to fast speed I hear a humming noise, almost like big truck tires make. This is especially noticeable when letting off the gas and coasting. Could this be a tranny issue?
1992 Volvo 240 ... I'm having car jerking problem after running for about 20 minutes at speed between 90 -110 kph. Car stabilizes again when the speed comes back to 90kph. There is no problem initially when running beyond 120kph when the engine first started up. The problem only starts after a short while.
View 1 RepliesCranks strong, I have fuel to the rail, 12V at the injectors and spark. Have changed crank sensor and 2 relays?
View 3 RepliesI just got caught in the rain, literally, a freeway ramp was partially flooded, saw other cars go through a "puddle" and with safety distance proceeded. About 9 feet away from the edge of this water accumulation my engine sputtered and turned off on me and I recall seeing some, but not much white smoke coming out of the hood. I didn't leave the car as when I look right next to me I saw only water, about 1/2 the height of my tire surrounding me. AAA came pretty fast and pulled me out of that wet mess and mentioned it could be just as simple as overheating. It's about 2 hours later and I tried my engine but all it does is struggling to turn on. I turned it off immediately. I checked my coolant level - empty as it can get, and also my dipstick in the oil seems to be not right. Transmission fluid is fine though. Could those two fluids be the problem to why my engine is not starting? Or could it be that something got too wet? Once I turn the key in the 1 position shows electricity is fine and all lights come on with Overdrive and SRS going off after a short while. 1992 Volvo 240 ...
View 4 RepliesWhen I 'hit the gas' I hear a loud clunk or short scratching noise (definitely metal) before the engine starts revving up. I've researched the issue a bit but found no concrete answers. Motor mounts, timing, transmission issue? No one thing seems to cause it as far as I can tell.
I got my '92 Volvo 240 Non-Turboalmost a year ago and haven't really thought much of the noise, but I'm coming up on a 500mi trip to Northern California. I want to make sure it's in tip-top shape before I leave. [IMG]
I have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.
I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.
One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.
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We are considering the purchase of a 1992 Volvo 960 sedan. We have two young daughters who both need to be using child seats. I cannot work out where the anchor points are for fitting the seats.
View 1 RepliesMy 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
I have a 92 volvo 240 and have recently got a check engine light. I got a code reading of #241 on number 6 terminal. What that means and how to correct this problem?
View 1 RepliesI drive a 92 Volvo 240 with under 100,000 miles on it. Previous owner never really drove it, had it for about four years now. During the winter we seem to have electrical issues; back in 2009 I turned the car on after going shopping and drove immediately, while driving I got a green light and was braking around the corner the car just cut out completely. Got it to a mechanic and they replaced the whole electrical system, issues never reappeared for another two years. 2010 only issue was it need a new transmission, so I put in a used one. Four months later, February I believe, this time it would not start at all and it was night time. Got it towed to the mechanic and the next day he called me, said nothing was wrong with it started right up.
Now we are here November 22, 2011 and the car has cut out on me twice in the pas week. The first time was a dark cold night, got it towed to the mechanic and started up the next day like nothing was the issue. The mechanic joked that it likes to play dead and it starving for attention. The second time it was in broad day light and it started about again 30 minutes later.
3 out 4 times my car cut it happened while applying the brake and from a short distance from where it was parked. Also note that during the night during the winter the battery light will have a light glow to it, also when purchased the owner put it a newer radio system, sometimes when the brakes are applied it will cut out, during the winter is when its more common.
After it happened a third time and the mechanics were stumped, I decided to go to a much reliable source.
My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?
My Dads 92 Volvo's engine is making a knocking noise and I'm wondering what the possible causes are. He doesn't take that great care of it but it didn't over heat or anything. It sounds like it is making a loud knocking or clicking noise directly from the engine when you accelerate. It still runs but definitely has a lack of power.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1992 volvo 940 about a month ago I started noticing a burning smell and it was my brakes, they also make a squeaking sound and I took it to my mechanic upon which they will need to be replaced. Today I notice my battery,brake and system lights all came on and stayed on while I drove about 4 miles. Can something to do with my brakes needing repair?
View 5 Replies