Volvo - 240 :: 1990 - AC Compressor Not Cutting On
Mar 6, 2011
1990 Volvo 240. The ac doesn't work and about 6 yrs ago it was converted to r134a. How can I check it see whats wrong?
View 1 Replies1990 Volvo 240. The ac doesn't work and about 6 yrs ago it was converted to r134a. How can I check it see whats wrong?
View 1 Replies I have a 1990 Mazda Miata, and the AC is not working. It has been switched over to R134a. I took it to a mechanic to have it recharged a few weeks ago. He said that one of the o-rings was cracked and so it was leaking around that. He filled it up and put some stop leak in it and for awhile it seemed to work fine. Then it stopped blowing cold air. I took it to a jiffy lube just to have the level of coolant (correct term?) checked. The person there told me that it was very low and was leaking around the valve stems. I tightened the valve stems and re-filled it. After 24 hours it had stopped blowing cold air again. I got a price quote on a new compressor and it is about $500.
So - my question is this - should I just put a new compressor in or is there something cheaper I could try first?
My 1990 f250 a/c has freon, and the compressor runs when i turn on the a/c but i get no cold air.
View 7 RepliesMy beautiful 1990 Volvo 240 will not shift into 4th gear! It is an automatic. The OD light will go on and off and I can hear it click when I turn it on. I just noticed that when getting on the highway it seemed as if the RPM was a little too high so I started paying more attention to which gear it was in and noticed today that it stays in 3rd gear.
I have already replaced the fuse #11. With the OD seemingly working fine, should I mess with the relay?
I've got a 90 240 DL that stopped dead and won't restart. Hit it with starter fluid and it fires off, but stops. Had no way of testing fuel pressure, so replaced in-line pump. Tank pump runs, can hear it through filler opening. Problem persists, even with new pump and filter. Pulled vac line to FPR but no gas leaks there. Also, new plugs, distributor cap and rotor, new air filter. Pulled MAF sensor plug, still no start. Checked FP relay (also spare) and jumped FP relay to test. No go. Where do I go now? Should I check computer codes? Replace FP regulator, crank sensor? Everything? Can the on-board computer be bad?
Trying to find a path to go on since the new pump seems to give plenty of pressure.
My 1990 740 will not start. These are the tests I have completed:
Starter and battery are in good condition.
The fuel pump works, it delivers fuel pressure on initial starting.
The plugs are new and gaped correctly.
I am getting a good spark at all plugs.
I have tested for power at the cold start valve. It is connected to the top of the starter and is at 9 volts while starting the engine.
The timing belt is new and is operating correctly. The engine is timed correctly.
I have noticed that there is no fuel getting to the plugs. I pulled one and it is dry.
The code is 3-2-1. Cold Start valve? It is 75 degrees.....the car should start?
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I have a 1990 volvo 240 dl and the gas gauge no longer works. Just wondering if there's anything I can do to fix it.
View 1 RepliesI own a 1990 Volvo 740 GL. It cut off at a stop light one day and now it will not start. It seems to be a fuel related issue, if I squirt staring fluid into the intake it will start but cuts off immediately. I removed the fuel line that connects to the injectors and no fuel is coming out. I checked both the number 1 and 11 fuses both are fine. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and the fuel pump relay.
View 14 RepliesSo I am on my way home after an honest 8, and I make it a mile down the road and goose the old girl a little off a stop light. Well next thing I know we have smoke rolling out under the hood, well it turns out the "smoke" was r134 refrigerant. The guy that recharged it said that the compressor failed and that its common with retrofits because 134a runs at a higher pressure.
Now I don't need a/c, and I might just leave it as is, but it would be nice to have the old girl working 100%. It also turns out that the front seal of the transmission is leaking, I am debating whether or not to just have the transmission rebuilt. it shifts fine but its gotta come out anyway. Its a 700r4 and the trans guy recommends stronger 3-4 clutches and a shift kit to make the holding pressure higher.
My 1990 Volvo is making a terrible noise at about 20-30 miles per hour. It only lasts a few minutes but it sounds like a plane taking off underneath the passenger seat (wagon). Had the muffler replaced, but it didn't fix the noise. I also have a high pitched noise at freeway speeds.
View 2 RepliesMy 1990 Volvo 760 turbo has a problem. The brakes are sometimes hard to depress (although they work). When this happens, there are accompanying problems with sluggish acceleration and difficulty with the automatic shifting. What's happening?
View 2 RepliesGot a 90 740 GLE station wagon (missing its rear muffler at present) that turns over yet doesn't like to start up on the first or second try. It has also stalled out at stop signs, and once when driving. Had a tune up about 3 months ago, new plugs and plug wires, and some welding on the exhaust, but the muffler is still missing. Could the exhaust be causing this in any way? It always eventually starts. Could use a little more power, but, hey, it's a 22 year old car. I'd really like to get this solved, as my ex drives it with my kid. Could this be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue?
View 3 RepliesRecently replaced alternator on Volvo 240 dl (covered under warranty). Battery checked numerous times and comes back as working perfectly fine. For some reason the battery is not taking a charge from the alternator or something is draining the battery too fast for the alternator to charge the battery. Regardless, after driving the car to and from the car either will not start (but jump starts instantly).
Upon the car breaking down yet again today and attempting to drive it home the car lost all power and shut down while driving down the road. The first noticeable thing was the gas gauge dropping slowly from 3/4 to empty and then all power loss. Upon hooking jumper cables up and 'charging' by another vehicle the Volvo would again drive for a short period of time before the same thing happened.
I drive a 1990 240 with close to 300,000 miles on it. Haven’t had any troubles with it in the 1-2 years I’ve had it.
Recently went in to get my smog checked and failed two of the three tests: the functional and emissions. I've attached the VIR.
Mechanic said there might be a leak, so a buddy of mine checked the engine for a vacuum leak but couldn’t find anything.
What are the common sources for a failed smog check? I plan on getting a diagnostic later in the week/
smogcheckVIR.png ( 1.93MB )
It sounds like a huge, happy cat in a tunnel when turning right and accelerating at the same time. It's an echoing whirring/purring sort of sound. What it could be? It also clunks in the rear with slight vibration. Could this be caused by an issue with the rear suspension or the engine mounts or something else?
Also, the locks seem to be possessed. When I try to unlock all the doors by pulling up on the driver's lock, the rest of the doors either unlock perfectly or lock harder, i.e.,all the passenger locks slam down and cannot be retracted. Sometimes the locks will either lock and unlock or lock and lock harder on their own while I'm driving.
1990 Volvo 760 4 cyl. Turbo. Drove the car to work, everything fine. Got off work, car wouldn't start. Cranked but wouldn't start. It was getting spark. Changed the fuel filter, it ran perfect for a month. Drove it to town a month later, shut it off, then trying to start it, would crank and crank eventually start but run real rough. We got it home....barely.
Replaced the fuel filter again. Still wouldn't run right.
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same problem.
Replaced the throttle positioning switch. Same problem. Replaced the air control valve. same problem.
Found out that this car has an on board diagnostic doo hickey.
Found out how to check each sensor and component individually.
All sensors and components are working. Checked both fuel pumps and they are working. If I unplug the air flow sensor and the air control valve sensor, I can start the car using starter fluid and it will idle all day with out missing a lick.If I plug in either one of the sensors, it will kill it immediately.I don’t know what else to do to make this machine run.
My '90 240 will not start. When I turn the key to Acc. or Start I hear a whirring sound coming from the fuel pressure regulator so I assume the fuel pump is not an issue. The engine will not even crank. I assume it is the ignition coil or the starter but I am unsure. As an FYI, the battery and plugs are good.
View 1 Repliesif the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
View 3 RepliesMy Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
View 10 RepliesWhat are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 RepliesThe AC on my vintage Camry worked perfectly until today. When I first turned it on no cold air came out. So I shut it and later turn it on and it worked for awhile and then quit. It was that way for 100 mile trip. So what,s wrong?
View 4 Replies