Volvo - 240 :: 1988 Wagon Rattling And Smoking When Accelerating Hard Up A Hill
Sep 7, 2013
i have an 88 volvo 240 wagon with 89K miles on it... it's been passed down through the family, is in great shape and is a joy to own. i have always have it serviced at the volvo dealership and recently had a bunch of work done to it including complete lube, oil and filter change, replaced the radiator overflow cap, replaced a leaking valve cover gasket, replaced the oil pan gasket, replaced the rear diff gasket and added oil, and replaced the sway bar links (it was an expensive visit).
to my dismay, on the way home, accelerating hard up a hill, something under the car started to rattle and black smoke started coming out of the back of the car. i took it back to the dealership and they replaced a leaking seal that they said was the problem, on the way home, same thing with the rattle and smoke happened on the same hill... maybe just stop driving on that hill, right? so i took it back and they changed the oil again (the oil levels were a bit high) and said they couldn't find anything wrong... drove the car home and seemed not to have the problem (though i did take it easy on the hill).
so today, i take the car out for a drive (usually just drive it on the weekend), and accelerating hard up the same hill i get the same rattling and black smoke that continues until i let off the acceleration. by the time i get home (a couple blocks later), it's like nothing ever happened.
Is it safe to drive as long as i don't accelerate hard? Never had this issue before all the work was done, kind of seems like i should take the car back to the dealership, but this would be the 4th time for the same issue...
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My 1988 240DL wagon....the engine temp gauge is not working? is see the wire that goes to the sensor in the engine block, it is there and connected to the sensor. is there a way to test the wire? I have purchased a new sensor, but I have not replaced it yet.
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I have a 1988 Volvo 240 DL station wagon that has been in my family since just before I was born. It has somewhere around 300K miles on it (the odometer broke 7 years ago at 250K). It drives around town more or less fine, usually. But sometimes it loses power on me. Usually this happens when I take it on highways, up big hills, in situations where I need to accelerate quickly, etc. It just starts to slow down, and I have to downshift and ease slowly through whatever stretch of road I'm on until I can get back up to speed (usually on a downhill). It's not totally consistent--sometimes it has this problem, other times it doesn't.
The car will go through stretches where it runs fine, then I'll have this problem on a highway, and then it's a little more likely to happen for a period after that (even on surface streets). This has been happening in some form for a few years. When I first had the problem, it happened continually until I heard a terrible rattling in the engine. When I took it in, they found that a spring in the piston/cylinder had broken off and shot up, breaking the cap off one of the cylinders (sorry for the lack of a more technical explanation).
When they fixed that, the problem seemed to go away for a while, but eventually came back (though there has been no rattling since). The most recent time, it had been running around town just fine. Then I took it out on the highway and really lost power--had to slow it down to 35-40mph going up a hill on a 55mph highway. For the rest of the drive it struggled up hills, even as low as 2nd gear. But on my drive home (about 1.5 hours later), the car ran smoothly (though I continued to baby it, and there were fewer upward hills). Since then, even around town it sometimes feels like it might lose power again, but it never becomes a huge issue because I haven't demanded a whole lot of the car.
After that long-winded explanation, I'm wondering: could this be something as simple as spark plugs? Or is this definitely a bigger issue with the engine? If it's a cheap fix, I'm happy to go for it, but if it will require putting several hundred (or more) into the engine, I'm inclined just to let it limp along until it's finally time to take the car out back and shoot it. Figuratively, of course.
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It sounds like a huge, happy cat in a tunnel when turning right and accelerating at the same time. It's an echoing whirring/purring sort of sound. What it could be? It also clunks in the rear with slight vibration. Could this be caused by an issue with the rear suspension or the engine mounts or something else?
Also, the locks seem to be possessed. When I try to unlock all the doors by pulling up on the driver's lock, the rest of the doors either unlock perfectly or lock harder, i.e.,all the passenger locks slam down and cannot be retracted. Sometimes the locks will either lock and unlock or lock and lock harder on their own while I'm driving.
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My 245 is running great. Love this car to death. I have been experiencing something weird. The car will start hard after sitting intermittently. It'll crank for 3 seconds and if I press the gas pedal it will fire right up. If I don't touch the pedal, itll will continue to crank...eventually sputtering and then firing. It will usually fore up right away if I don't let it sit for hours. I haven't exactly narrowed it down to a fuel prime issue, but that's kind of what it seems like to me. Are there any check valves or anything like that I could look into?
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"I have a 2001 XC70 WAGON and is making big noise while moving, bigger the speed bigger the noise, engine in idle and in N (while in speed) the same. Could this be because of tires?
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1991 740 Wagon 2.3 I4 with turbocharger and an intercooler.
My rear taillamp brake lights do not come on.
Of the 4 red lights on both taillamp cluster, only bottom two red lights stay on when I turn on the head lights. When I step on brake pedal with both headlights on or off, all 4 read lights do not come on.
I only get the middle small red light on. (which probably means the brake light switch on the pedal is fine.) I do have the lamp malfunction warning on when I turn on the headlamp or signal lights on.
I changed the lamp malfunction relay (big red cylinder) but things are the same. Found the bottom right red light had one of its filament broken so replaced the bulb but things are still the same.
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What is the trick to removing air from the cooling system? Today I replaced the water pump on my daughter's 1990 240 wagon. I filled up the cooling system and believe there is air in the system. The car gets hot immediately, when I squeeze the hoses they feel soft, particularly the lower hose. During the fill procedure, I was not able to find an air valve on the thermostat housing. I suspect there is air in the system causing it not to circulate.
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I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
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I have a 1981 240 Wagon with 182K miles on it. When I reach 45-55 MPH on the highway the car starts to hum and roar. It is not horrible by any means but it has gotten louder over time and now the car kind of vibrates. At 60mph it stops and quiets down. Now I am unsure if I have a turbo or not and I feel like that could just be the turbo mechanism kicking in but I am not sure.
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One of the rear doors on my 86 wagon won't unlock. The lock button goes up and down, both manually and automatically, but the door won't open and it feels as though it is still locked. I'd rather not cut a hole in the door panel! Perhaps I should have a locksmith get the door open and then I should remove the door panel to lube the locking mechanism? Is there any way to lube things without removing the door panel or consulting a locksmith? I can roll the window up and down.
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I'm a newbie who just took ownership of a 1982 turbo wagon. It's been sitting a while but started right up and ran well for about 20 miles until it began stumbling on acceleration.
The car starts easily and runs smoothly until it gets hot and then it suffers severe hesitation and stumbling. Occasionally it will stall but starts right up again. It has never failed to restart immediately.
On a cool day, it will run smoothly for thirty minutes or more before the problem begins. On a hot day, the problem begins in five minutes.
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I thought my problem of non stop wiper motor was either relay or switch. I found a good working switch and that did not cure the problem. I have yet to find any relay that would control the power to this circuit. There has to be one ...right? If so, where might it be on this 1995 960 Wagon. All of the wiper features work except for "off". Speed controls work, rear works, washer works, etc.
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My 1993 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon starts and runs great in dry weather, but in wet weather, i.e., after/during rain, in very humid conditions, it has trouble starting and often won't start. The engine turns over but doesn't run. I got it started this morning after opening the hood and cranking it, thinking that the airflow might dry out whatever the issue was, but after driving for 3 minutes it stalled at a stop sign and I had to repeat the process.
A wire to the alternator was recently replaced, which I thought should have stopped the problem, but it didn't. The alternator checks good, and the check engine light is not on.
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After changing out my tensioner on my 6.0 but not directly about 24 hours later I started getting a surge/power/smoking problem after accelerating. Seems to be no problem at idle. Last night driving from Nj to SC it seemed to do it after I stopped to pee. If I could get it back to 60-65 mph it would run fine but accelerating to there was rough. I change my ebp sensor and thought that solved it but it came back. Unfortunately I couldn't get the sensing line off so that wasn't cleaned.
Unplugged the egr and thought that did it but it ended doing it again. When looking at the dashboss it looks like exhaust pressure goes up and boost goes to zero. What would cause the guide vanes to close is that a defuel or is that just the result of another sensor. It's a late 04 build with ipc on valve cover and ebp sensor at front of engine. Also it seems to happen at higher speeds. Going up and down hills at 75 or even 70 it seemed to do it often. I ran 60-65 between pee stops for hours without a hiccup..
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I have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.
I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.
One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.
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Got a 90 740 GLE station wagon (missing its rear muffler at present) that turns over yet doesn't like to start up on the first or second try. It has also stalled out at stop signs, and once when driving. Had a tune up about 3 months ago, new plugs and plug wires, and some welding on the exhaust, but the muffler is still missing. Could the exhaust be causing this in any way? It always eventually starts. Could use a little more power, but, hey, it's a 22 year old car. I'd really like to get this solved, as my ex drives it with my kid. Could this be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue?
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I have a 1994 Volvo 940 non turbo wagon. I just started having issues with the brakes lights and taillights not working. I have checked all the fuses visually and also did a continuity test on each one found all the fuses were good. I have replaced the all the relays, I have replaced the large red relay ( bulb failure relay ) and even did a continuity check on the bulb failure relay pins that are specifically for the rear brake light, everything checked out fine. I hesitate to change the brake light switch because the third brake light is working fine. I have considered replacing the headlight switch due to the taillights won't come on when the lights switch is on. My headlights do work though. There is no light on the dash indicating a bulb is out now since I replaced the third brake light bulb.
1994 Volvo 940 wagon
Non turbo
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I have a 2006 RX400h with about 110k miles on it. Recently, I noticed a rattling noise coming from what sounds like underneath the car when I'm going up hill (at or around 15-25 mph).
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