I have a 1986 Volvo 240. It has a button to push on the stick shift to put it in 5th gear. It drives and works fine except when I downshift from 5th gear. ..then it seems confused and has a hard time getting back into gear, it kind of hesitates and lurches forward. It will not go into reverse after it has been in 5th gear until I turn off the ignition, and start it again.
View 2 RepliesWhen cold starting the transmission shifts into reverse perfectly, then after backing up the car and shifting into drive it hesitates for 4 or 5 seconds before it engages the forward gear.
2008 Accent 4 door automatic 77,000 KM
Issue on my wife's 2002 SC430. Recently ran into the well-documented disappearing acceleration caused by one of the trifecta of sensors on the throttle (TPS, APPS, and Throttle motor). Replaced the throttle position sensor and seemed to resolve issue. As of about a week ago, however, the car has developed a hiccup that I can't diagnose. Here's what I've recorded and done so far:
Symptoms:
-Hesitation at 1800 or 2300(?) RPM under light throttle and increasing load (often on uphills).
-Throttle down-blip of 100-200 rpm momentarily, only lasts ~1 sec
-Noticable lurch to vehicle, slows down slightly, results in 0.08G accelerometer reading when kicks back in.
-Change in engine exhaust sound as if in C-gate gears on a downhill (sounds like engine braking).
-Sometimes happens repeatedly in quick succession - up to 8 times in 10 seconds.
-Not speed dependent
-Overall performance is fine, not sluggish or hesitating when you stomp on it.
-Intermittant issue, not replicable, happens at random.
-No error codes thrown, no CEL, no DSP lights.
-Consistent -14.7psi vacuum registering on OBDII
Actions taken:
-Recently replaced and tuned throttle position sensor
-Seafoam on a nearly empty tank for 3 mi, half-full tank for 40mi
-Italian tune-up
-Disassembled and cleaned MAF
-Cleaned air filter (K&N)
-Reset computer (battery grounded for 10 min)
So... the question is, what the heck is this? Here are a few thoughts of what to do next in order of easiest/most likely/least expensive:
-Remove ABS relay and check performance (maybe TCS is hitting brakes a little?)
-Check all vacuum lines
-Seafoam cleaning through vacuum lines
-Remove, disassemble and clean TB assembly
-Test continuity on throttle body motor
-Test continuity on VVT solenoids
-Test continuity on full range of APP Sensor
-Replace VVT filters
-Replace VVT solenoids
-Check spark plug torque?
My Car when it comes to a traffic light, wants to lurch just a bit, as I sit waiting for the light to change, I don't know whether it will stall, and also the RPM wants to rev on its own a little when I first get into the car to start it, and also while I am waiting at stoplights.
View 1 RepliesHaving issue which the car moves a bit after putting it on Park?
When I set the car to P and release my foot off from the brake pad, the car lurches forward a bit then locks itself down.
Another issue i have with the brake is when I fully stop and release the brake, i hear a noise. I can't really describe the noise.
I've had my 08 r32 for about two months now, it has 93k on the clock. The dsg is great in everyway except in low gears/speeds. Especiially in traffic, it lurches forward or slows down rapidly like it dosant know weather to shift down to first or stay in second. Jumpy when starting off in first like I have to feather the gas pedal just right so it doesn't jump off the Line.
I took it into vw service center last week for diognostics test, they said everything was fine trouble code wise but they wii send the results to vw tech center and ask for advice. I got a call back today they want to do a cycle test, test drive the car with reset values and then cycle 6 times. From cool back upto operating temp etc and find out the results.
I've had my 2011 Prius II for two months, and I love it. One little thing bugs me, however. I have noticed that sometimes when I apply the brakes, the car lurches forward a little bit. But I keep the brake pedal on, and the car does stop. Is there something wrong with my brakes, or is this something that has to do with the regenerative braking?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2012 Prius with 15000 miles on it. In the year I have had it, I have had this problem a few times. On rare occasions while I am braking the car seems to lurch forward. In particular I have noticed it while braking and hitting a bump. The problem is that when this happens the car seems to jump forward while the brakes are being applied. My foot is on the brake when it happens, but I am not braking suddenly. That rules out any anti-lock braking. I have had the dealer look at it but since it didn't happen on their test drive they couldn't figure anything out. They did open a case on it in case anything comes up.
View 9 RepliesIt's hard to drive the Mk6 smoothly at low speeds. Creeping along at a snails pace the car lurches forward while trying to crawl along at about 5 mph in first gear ( 6 speed manual ).
I remember reading about replacing something that will cure this 'hiccup' in throttle response. What the part is? Is it a diverter valve or something ?
What the fix is for my 2007 Mercury Montego Premier? When the car is in drive and the car is either stopped or at a slow speed such as at a stop light or pulling into a parking space, the car lurches forward. It is almost as if the computer is telling the car to step on the gas. I am concerned for my 16 year old daughter to be driving the car and have the car suddenly accelerate and get into a collision.
View 4 RepliesI have an RX 330 with about 154K on it. I have noticed recently that (from a stop) when I press the gas there is a slight hesitation before the car lurches forward and continues down the road. Also, in general the car doesn't seem to have the get and go it once had. What I should look into to determine what might be causing this problem?
View 2 RepliesI have searched a decent amount on this and it seems like there is a whole list of items that could cause these problems. The car is a 2008 Passat 2.0T with the tiptronic. It is the early 2008 so it still has the FSI motor. It only has 53k on it and literally just came out of warranty a month or two before this all started happening.
It all started with the CEL coming on and the went into limp mode. We shut it off and turned it back on, the car went into limp mode again but upon the 3rd restart the car started and ran just fine. Then for a few weeks we just had a CEL (I don't know what code it was because I never scanned it at the time). Now as of lately the car is have a terrible rough idle, and at stops it will start kinda shaking and lurching forward. Sometimes it will also have a noticeable misfire upon start up. Also after going at highway speeds for some time the car will start to produce a squealing noise when not producing boost.
A few days ago I scanned it and these codes came back:
P0110
P0101
P0102
P0104
P0108
P0171
The first 5 IIRC are related to misfires and the P0171 is a lean code.
At first I thought this was the PCV valve because I had read about the lurching and the squeal that someone else had from that but after reading up more on things I am worried the P0171 is from the cam follower.
At this point I am just very tired of hearing my wife constantly complaining about the car. I want to try and figure this out without throwing part after part at it. I can't afford to buy items just to find out they aren't fixing it.
My 1986 528e was used to jump start another vehicle, ran it for a minute or so in Park @ 2000 rpm per owner's manual instruction, got other vehicle started, reversed away from other vehicle, put selector into Drive and car would not move forward. Tried all other forward options, no go. Reverse works just fine. Checked fluid and it was low. Topped it up but still no forward gears. Had vehicle towed home. Checked selector cable and it is OK. What could this be to go out all of a sudden like this?
View 4 RepliesI've been having an issue with my Elantra GT where the car appears to be shifting poorly. The issue is very intermittent and usually only occurs just after starting to drive for about 4 to 5 minutes. But it never occurs consistently during every time I start driving the car. It is an Auto transmission but it feels as if a poor downshift is being back (car hesitates, then surges forward). From my research the transmission in the GT appears to be fairly reliable.
Background
2013 Elantra GT
KMs: 98500 km (high mileage commuter to work and back)
Note: Installed K&N Typhoon around 95,000 km, issue persisted before and after.
Initially started to feel the issue around 80,000 km. At this point I took it to the dealer and had the transmission flushed. The issue went away until about the 87,000 to 90,000 km mark and then started to return. Went back to the dealer and they said they performed an updated and couldn't replicate the issue during test drives. Currently my car is at 98,500 and this morning when driving to work the issue was particularly severe and the check engine light came on.
I have an '86 245 with an intermittant engine stutter for the last several months. This only happens after the car has been running for about 20 minutes or on a hot day. It will stutter for several seconds (some times die) and then function normally for the next 5 to 30 minutes before it stutters again.The car was tuned up about 1 month before the problem startedI replaced the fuel pump relay, did not work. The shop told me the in tank pump was bad so they replaced that. This seemed to fix the problem but a month later it started to do it again.
View 1 RepliesOn my 86' 740 the cranking has been kinda lengthy and a bit weak as if the battery is going bad. I finally had an episode where the cranking and the start was stranding me. After three attempts and keeping the throttle wide opened it started. What is now strange is the crank is strong and faster as if something broke loose or got reset.
View 1 RepliesOne of the rear doors on my 86 wagon won't unlock. The lock button goes up and down, both manually and automatically, but the door won't open and it feels as though it is still locked. I'd rather not cut a hole in the door panel! Perhaps I should have a locksmith get the door open and then I should remove the door panel to lube the locking mechanism? Is there any way to lube things without removing the door panel or consulting a locksmith? I can roll the window up and down.
View 2 RepliesAfter fixing no brake lights on my 86' 740 I still can't get the inner ones to work. To fix the problem I changed the brake lamp failure relay. The bulbs are good. The relay was used.
View 1 Replies1986 volvo turbo. I am at my wits end with my car. I know very little about car repair and maintenance and that alone makes me enraged.
So my car is very old and has not been taken care of before I owned it. It did misfire at idle speed before but very rarely, now it seems that ever since I put more oil in the misfires happen way more frequently.
I put in a synthetic 10w 30 oil and the engine is way more quiet now and the gas mileage is slightly better...but ever since I put it in the misfires are frequent. I do not know if it is a vacuum leak or a spark plug problem, or if it has something to do with the oil
33K and no problems until this morning. Wife gets 400 yards down the street, car "lurches" and goes into limp mode. Transmission won't shift out of whatever gear its stuck in (going forward) Car will back up. Only indication of any possible trouble is occasionally the very first time the transmission shifts in the morning from 1st into 2nd its a little spirited rather than silky smooth.
View 5 RepliesReplaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
View 2 Replies