Volvo - 240 :: 1981 - Key Out Of Ignition But Car Still Running
Dec 8, 2012
I have an 81Volvo 240 sedan with a little more than 200k miles on it. I've had this issue with the ignition for several years now. Sometimes when I turn off the car with the key as normal, the car keeps running as if nothing happened. I've tried several fixes:1. moving the steering wheel violently and put the car out of park2. replaced the ignition switch.3. replaced the ignition switch relay.
Now the only way to turn the car off when it does this is to pull the relay under the dash. When I reconnect it, it works fine. But, I'd rather not have to pull the relay every time I want to turn off the car!
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I have a 1981 240 Wagon with 182K miles on it. When I reach 45-55 MPH on the highway the car starts to hum and roar. It is not horrible by any means but it has gotten louder over time and now the car kind of vibrates. At 60mph it stops and quiets down. Now I am unsure if I have a turbo or not and I feel like that could just be the turbo mechanism kicking in but I am not sure.
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I reset the MPG on the dash computer and the car died and won't. Start.
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My son have a 1985 Volvo 244 DL. The engine turn over but no spark. We change the coil and check the fuse in side the car driver side.
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Have an issue on my 244 .1977 model. Sometimes the car won't kick over. The ignition seems ok but no starter....then after a while it will kick over and can't seem to find the problem. I'm pretty sure it's a connection issues somewhere but looking at the manual, there is a start inhibitor which I want to check but I'm not sure where all these are under the bonnet...the manual doesn't give any location.
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I have a 1991 Volvo 940 SE with turbo and 162,000 miles
The problem is there is no spark coming from the ignition coil. There is power going to the ignition coil but no spark. The car turns over but doesn't start.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor and the Ignition Module. The wire that goes from the ignition module to the Ignition Coil has been replaced with a new wire that goes directly from the module to the coil .
Also the coil has been checked and its operating within parameters.
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We have a 2007 XC90 and there is some issue where the car locks itself. It happens when the key is not in the ignition. I'll get out of the car and without pushing anything on the key tab it will lock. Then it will not unlock unless you hit lock, then unlock.
It happens all the time. Sometimes 30 minutes to an hour after getting out of the car and parking it in our garage. We rarely lock the car in our garage but we almost always find it locked.
Some observations....
- Seems to happen more often in the cold.
- Seems to be an issue with the car (educated guess) and not the key as it locks itself even when the key is completely out of range.
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2000 Volvo S70, 177K - This car is new to me, and shortly after purchasing it, I began having difficulty removing the ignition key when arriving at a destination. With the transmission in Park, and the engine shut off, the key just won't come out. Then again, sometimes there's no problem at all. Oddly, the problem seems to correlate with the cabin/engine temp. If I allow the car to cool off, then go back to it in a half hour, the key will usually come right out. Same thing with short trips. I'm fortunate so far that I've not been in any high crime areas where leaving the key would be risky; but I will need to solve this eventually.
I understand that there's a safety switch/sensor that ensures the vehicle is in Park before the key can be removed, and I've tried being a bit more "forceful" in shifting to P, but that doesn't seem to work. I'll be taking this to my mechanic anyway for a state safety inspection followup; are there any hints I can give him if I can't figure it out myself?
Is the temperature factor suggestive that the problem is in the transmission sensor? I'd prefer that the issue be a sensor or adjustment rather than in the ignition switch just to avoid the re-keying mess.
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I am happy owner of a 740 1987 4 door sedan. How to solve the problem: the engine do not stop when ignition key is removed.
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I have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detente. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn.
Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years.
I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!?
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My 740 (1990, B230E, non-turbo) has been running rough at low rpm. Once above 1800 rpm or so it's fine. I've changed the Distributor cap and rotor arm (they were both shot), but the problem persists. I'm thinking injector relay or ignition stage amplifier next, but I don't want to just through parts at it.
The plugs were changed 3 months/1,500 miles ago. The misfire is intermittent.
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I just been told my volvo 850 estate is backfiring and running on 4 cylinders instead of 5. I have been told he will have to run diagnostics and go from there.
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First time Volvo owner. Love the 97 850 that I got, but it runs really rough, and I don't know if that's normal for these cars or not. When I say it runs rough, I mean that it vibrates like crazy (not shaking, but vibrating) and it's loud. Every other car I've owned sounds smooth when it's idling or accelerating, but not this one. And I don't mind the noise at all, but the vibrations are a little frustrating.
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I have a 1983 Volvo GL 240 Auto trans. I've owned this car for a very long time ~20 years and have never had a problem with it. Since mid Autumn this year (currently Winter in Australia) when starting the car after it has been raining, left overnight in the cold or it is a particularly moist day the car will not start properly.
What happens is the car will start and I accelerate to take off the car will lose significant revs, stall and die. If I can get it out from the driveway and onto the road continuously for 5 minutes the car will run fine for the rest of the day.
But if I stop (to a halt) during this period and try to accelerate the car will again lose revs, stall and die. It is very hard from this point to get the car started again as the same thing continues to happen.
I have changed the spark plug leads, engine oil and trans fluid.
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I have a 2003 Volvo S40. I just replaced the battery, spark plugs, coils, fuel filter along with a fuel system flush. Because the car was running very rough. It's been 4 days since i got it back from the shop and now my car won't start unless I give it gas. The car won't stay on and it smells like it's running very rich.
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Yesterday after I turned off my car I got out and saw that the car was still running. This lasted a minute or so that seemed like an hour or so. I got back in the car, turned the key to start it again, and then turned it off and it stayed off. What could cause that in a 1997 honda accord ex.
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First off, vehicle is a 1993 Volvo 240, 5 speed with 131,000 miles
1) Temperature gauge is reading hot, but I believe it's running at a normal temperature. I read a few things discussing this issue. First off, a yellow wire that runs through the firewall becomes corroded (as do all Volvo wires of this age!) What exactly is this wire and what does it lead to? Could I just rerun that wire with possibly a thicker gauge? My dads an electrician so no worries with the wiring. More commonly, however; I read that the temperature compensation board fails and gives erratic readings! is this board expensive and how difficult is it to replace? I have experience with this dashboard because I rebuilt my odometer and installed a tachometer, that gives you my basic level of expertise.
2) My passenger side rear fog light won't work, a new bulb didn't fix the problem, what could it be?
3) My car shakes kind of vigorously while braking, especially at LOW speed!? I replaced front pads and rotors, what else could the problem be?
Volvo.jpg ( 2.19MB )
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1992 Volvo 240 ... I'm having car jerking problem after running for about 20 minutes at speed between 90 -110 kph. Car stabilizes again when the speed comes back to 90kph. There is no problem initially when running beyond 120kph when the engine first started up. The problem only starts after a short while.
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I have a 2009 Camry SE. Yesterday it would not crank and I wound up having to replace the battery. Now the ac blower motor runs even when the ignition is off and when the ignition is on, I cannot control the speed of the blower. I had to unplug the blower motor to make it stop. What would cause this?? Everything else seems to work fine.
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I have a 2005 XC90, 2.5T with about 210K miles.
The issue began while driving at about 70mph on the highway. The car acted like it was running out of gas, skipping and hesitating. After getting off the highway the issue persisted. Accelerating from a stop caused the car to once again act like it was running out of gas sputtering and lurching. The CEL came on and it stalled once before getting to an AutoZone. The codes came back as P2177 (too lean off idle bank 1) and P0089 (fuel pressure regulator).
I limped home and parked the car for a few days to check out my options. After a few days the car drove perfectly with no issues. But the issue returned the same as before within a few more days. So here's what I've done thus far....
1. Replaced the fuel pressure sensor (no change)
2. Replaced spark plugs (no change)
3. Replaced fuel filter (car ran perfectly for a few weeks, self clearing the CEL)
4. Ran some Seafoam cleaner through a tank of gas (car continued to run fine)
5. A few days ago the issue returns, same as before
6. Cleaned MAF (no change)
After replacing the fuel filter and running the Seafoam it ran great. Then all of a sudden it's doing the exact same thing again.
I've scoured the web for more info but come up empty handed. My thoughts now lean toward the following...
1. Leak in the turbo system or TCV issue
2. Bad injector(s)
3. Bad coil(s)
4. Failing fuel pump
5. Random O2 sensor freaking out
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About 3 months ago the check engine light came on. Scanner read rear o2 sensor and it was replaced. After about 100 miles CEL returned. This time it is the front o2 sensor. It was replaced and CEL returned after about 70 miles. Reading was same exact sensor and it was replaced again but same reading returned after about 80 miles. Now the scan is reading P1132 which is MAF sensor. Car is running a little rougher and starting a little harder. What can solve the problem? I have a rejection sticker on my car.
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