Volvo - 240 :: 1978 - Gagging / Staggers And Then Normal?
Dec 15, 2013
I'm motoring along at speed & suddenly the car jerks once or several times with such violence that it pops out of gear leaving the engine racing. Everyone in the car is jerked hard back and forth; if this model had a cup holder the coffee would blast straight up. It feels like the windshield is going to flop out and the motor mounts throw up their hands and the whole shebang just drop onto the pavement. Then it carries on as if nothing happened.
And (a figurative) POW JERK JERK JERK...repeatI call it "stagger" or "gagging"; it happens more in hot weather, more when the engine is hauling up a hill. Not so much in cold weather. Based on that I'm guessing it's not electrical but fuel line related. (This car has a functioning vacuum pump which sings in hot weather.) So, does this model have 2 (TWO) fuel pumps? One under the rear seat and one ???? But why would it happen so much more often and with such violence in hotter weather? I've driven this car all over the West for 30 years. This problem started only a couple of years ago.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
My '78 245 drives just fine around the (flat) city but when I try to take it to the mountains it seems to struggle. It makes it fine up the hills for the first 30 minutes or so but eventually it starts to chug and will lose power and die. If I give it 10 minutes to rest it will start up just fine and drive fine for a while but if I continue to go uphill it will die again. It doesn't overheat too much, it just seems like it's not getting enough of something? And it doesn't seem like it's a fuel pump because i've replaced those before and it seems different this time. After returning home from the mountains, it's like nothing happened and it drives fine?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2004 Chev Cavalier with a 2.2. Ecotec OHC. Lately the car has started to stagger on acceleration. Particularly when going up hill. The weird thing is, it only does it after it's been running for 10 or 15 minutes. Up until that time it runs smoothly. But when it happens it feels like the engine bucks. Or hiccups. If I stomp on the gas the car will either stall or kick in and overcome this. When I'm driving down the road at a steady speed, or when I'm sitting still the engine will buck in the same fashion. Not steadily--intermittently. Once or twice every fifteen seconds. But it's getting progressively worse.
Now if I launch out of an intersection the car might even stall. When this happens I just turn the key and she fires right up again as if nothing happened. No "Check Engine Light" or trouble codes showing up in my Scangauge. I replaced the fuel filter just as a preliminary measure but that didn't solve the problem. I had the fuel pump replaced a few months ago as well but that ws before this problem occurred. No other parts or pieces replaced. Fuel pressure regulator? Spark plugs? Injectors?
View 5 Replies
My 1989 740 Turbo wagon cuts out while I'm driving. It only ever does it at about the point when the engine first reaches its normal operating temperature. It can cut out while idling or when driving at normal speed. I'm not sure if it's related to temperature or time (it usually cuts out at about the 5-8 minute mark), or if this is simply coincidental. It does it nearly every day.
It's definitely caused by the fuel pump relay cutting out. I've replaced this already, with no improvement. Something is causing the relay to suddenly lose an input.
Once cut, it takes a few quick flicks of the key to the START position for the fuel pump relay to receive power again. It will then drive faultlessly for the rest of the day. Although, if allowed to sit and cool for many hours, it will sometimes do this again.
View 7 Replies
Here's my problem I have a 02 ranger 3.0 with some problems and I need to bounce it off some one with knowledge.
1. starting and normal running fine / ok .
2. In drive at 2200 rpm t0 2800 rpm the engine is sluggish and at night the head lights dim about 30%
3. Sometimes the battery light will turn on during this problem.
4. The only code is for a air leak fuel / evap system .
5. Above 4200 -4500 rpm the engine staggers or cuts out.
Parts changed coil: / ECM, Fuel pump and filter, plugs & wires several relays and alternator.
Inspection: Checked most ground and common grounds, looked for damaged, cut worn an burnt wires or worn harness plug / connectors .
View 1 Replies
I have a 78 4x4 I has SAT for a few years transmission has not shifted right since I've owned it. When taking off in d it just runs out first until I let off the gas then goes straight to third. Also will not go to second manually...
View 1 Replies
I just picked up a 1978 ranchero, and the steering wheel seems very loose. Lots of play in it.
View 2 Replies
It had no spark when I put a spark tester on, a few minutes later it started and runs fine. This has happened several months ago. Is their a way to test the spark control module.
View 3 Replies
Replaced starter after which when i turn key to on position starter will engage and actually start engine; turn to accessory and starter will engage but wont start engine. Checked double checked and so on installation. And then exchanged for another rebuilt starter with same results. the reason for replacing the starter in the first place was during the winter went out to start to let motor run fur a while which it did. Went to move before completely warmed up and killed engine starter never made another sound. 1978 gmc 6000....
View 9 Replies
My '78 Corolla SR5 with 2TC engine, starts sometimes, and sometimes not. If she has rested in the carport for a few days, she cranks right over and goes like blazes. After a twenty-mile run, if I shut her off, she won't start again. Not a sound not a click nothing. But if I leave her alone for a couple days, she cranks right over. I need to take the old girl through emissions pretty soon. I don't want her to go into a coma in the emissions bay. Her mechanics can find nothing wrong.
View 9 Replies
I got Ford C6 Transmission bolted up to a 460 in a 1978 Ford F250 4x4. I recently had put all new gaskets in it and I change the fluid. The day I put it all back in my reverse was trying to lunge forward, my natural was a 1st gear, and drive was working fine. Now recently my park throws itself into gear. I got no burnt fluid, the clutches were fine when I put it back in???? What could it be, I'm running out of options before I do a manual transmission swap.
View 7 Replies
I have a 78 F350 2wd With a 460. I want to install a 99 E4OD trans. I have the Trans it is rebuilt with all the upgraded parts. I was going to order the converter this week. I am not shure on the best programer to order and shifter to order.
View 4 Replies
All lights and wipers just stopped working on my 78 corolla. Replaced fuses did not work. Where do I go from here? I am an absolute novice but want to figure this out.
View 6 Replies
I just picked up a 78 F150 Ranger XLT with a 351M in it this past friday. I am absolutely in LOVE with her. She is a great solid truck. One issue I am having though is that she blows hot air out the vents over the hump but nothing is coming out the top of the dash. I am guessing that i will have to take the dash off and clean out the box check the door etc. What did you do to rectify?
View 3 Replies
1978 Mercedes 240D ... My clutch pedal loses all function after I drive over 45mph. If I wait 10 minutes, it works again.
View 2 Replies
i have a 78' F-250 4x4 4 speed with a straight 6. it has headers and an eldebrock 600 on an offenhouser dual plane intake. The carb just randomly started acting up the other day and what to try now. it will sputter and just about die when i first let off the clutch then it will suddenly start racin. its really annoying and hard to drive. i checked the inline fuel filter and it should be getting plenty of gas. didn't find any vacuum leaks.
View 14 Replies
I have an ambient temp switch connected to the vac port on my throttle emissions control solenoid for my 2150 carburetor. It's a 78 F-150 with a 5.0L 302, automatic 2WD. Would a bad ambient temp switch screw up my idle? I've disconnected the vac hose and it won't idle at all, and it does the same thing when I disconnect the two wires from the ambient temp switch. If I leave everything alone, I can get the idle down to around 1800rpm, but any lower than that and it stalls.
Is it possible to swap out this throttle emissions control solenoid with another type? I've looked everywhere and can't find an exact replacement, and I have no instructions on how to tune it.
View 4 Replies
I bought a 1952 F1 that is mounted on a 1978 E350 chassis.( 351W )
It has all the 78 wiring installed. When cranking engine, it will not start, unless you release key to run position. You have to get engine turning over, and then quickly release key to start. Checked back of switch, not losing voltage at ignition post while cranking...
View 5 Replies
Dash lights are not working in my 78 F150. The climate control lights come on and are dimable with the headlight switch. I pulled the cluster and the Blue/Red wire has voltage. Which might be the ground? The Seat belt light comes on at start and the left turn signal will blink. What am I missing. Oh the cluster is deteriorating. some of the bulb holes are chipping out.
View 1 Replies
I have a '78 F250 4x4 with the 400 engine and C6 automatic tranny in it. All of the sudden, it won't shift as I'm driving. It will go into reverse, drive, 2, 3, when I'm shifting, stays in the same gear all the time while I'm driving.
I was looking around and I found a hose that I think goes from the top of the tranny to...nothing. A friend said it's a vacuum hose that should go from the shift modulator to the carb. Well, I can't figure out where it should connect to the carburetor. There is a hose towards the front of the carb that was cut off and is plugged with a bolt, but that's been like that since I bought the truck 3 years ago. So if that's where the hose SHOULD go, then something else must have caused the tranny to give up on me.
Tranny has been acting fine until now. And I'm sure that hose should go SOMEWHERE!
View 1 Replies
When the brake pedal is first depressed, it sounds like air is being pushed out of it, sort of like flatulence, and are less responsive. When i pump the brake, it fills with air and tightens. The brakes work when I depress the pedal all the way down. Also, I have to pull my driver-side door shut a few times before it will close and lock with the vacuum system. Otherwise it won't close. Eventually the door closes and I can lock it when I shut the door just right. (My mechanic and I are working together to find replacement locks from junk yards) Is this the master cylinder? Or could this be due to a leak in the vacuum system since my door does not readily close? Or is it something else entirely? 1978 Mercedes 240D...
View 4 Replies
