Volvo :: 1996 - Whooshing Sound When Open Gas Cap
Sep 8, 2013
196 Volvo 850 T ,,, When I open my gas cap, (when the tank is almost empty), I hear a WOOSHING sound, LIKE AIR IS RUSHING INTO A VACUUM. Is that normal?Then, here's the PROBLEM: right after I fill up my gas tank (when it was almost empty), I drive a minute (more or less) and my engine STALLS and SHUTS OFF (as if can't get enough gas). The ENGINE light comes on. I have to keep restarting it and barely reach home. It stalls in PARK and in GEAR, while I'm driving. A bag smell comes out of the exhaust. Here's the weird part: when it sits overnight, in the morning I can drive it fine, with no stalling.
It's happened three or four times. My mechanic did what he called a "MINI-tune-up" and "Perform injection clean" and "Reset system" (charged almost $700) BUT THIS DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. When I brought the car back to him, he said he did not know what was wrong with it, but I should bring the car to him when the gas was almost empty so he could fill it and see what happens. So why did he charge me $700 if he didn't fix what I asked him to fix??What should I do?
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I got my 2015 GTI APR stage 1 tuned at about 1100 miles, was very satisfied with it. Now at about 1400-1500 miles, I've begun to notice a "whooshing" type sound, as if air is being sucked in...louder than I ever remember hearing it. It happens when cruising and gently stepping on the gas. I'm wondering if it is a leak somewhere. It doesn't seem to happen all the time, but when it does, it is quite noticeable. I would think that if it were a leak, it would be happening all the time.
It almost seems like there is a slight loss of power as the turbo kicks in (less punchy?), but that might just be in my head. The car still gets up to high speeds very quickly.
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Couple days ago I took out the factory air box and cut the bottom out. I also cleaned my K&N filter at the same time. I cut the whole bottom edge to edge up to about 2" from the flapper on the motor side of the box. Re-installed and everything is tight. I drove the car and noticed a LOUD or what I consider loud noise from about 3,000rpm to redline. I am thinking it could be just the additional air being sucked from the air box. However its much louder then I would expect from a CAI. Does a CAI make a loud difference? I noticed a increase in performance so I know its working. Also, it could be described a a light, smooth sounding exhaust leak. But I am susceptible since this problem was not their prior to the intake mod.
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My wifes 2006 mountaineer V8 overheats. She says itll only do it sometimes after the truck has been warmed up. She will come top a stop and the temp will spike and she will get a warning light then it will go back to normal and be fine. When the temp spikes she hears a loud whooshing or whirling sound coming from the motor which I supposed is the fan? Could it be a bad thermostat or waterpump?
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Sounds like an air leak when accelerating, and constant at mid/higher rpm's while driving. Hard to tell when parked.
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Last night I jumped into my Treg to move it into my garage. When I pushed the brake pedal to move the gear selector out of park, I heard a whooshing sound. Like the sound of a bellows-type foot pump I use to inflate my dinghy. I could also feel a slight amount of movement in the transmission lock button on the top left side of the shifter when doing this.
Now I'm noticing this noise whenever I apply the brakes. It doesn't appear to affect braking performance, but does have me wondering. I'll have the dealer check this out when I take the Treg in for the recent recall (got my notice yesterday).
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2006 F350 6.0l dually. Head gasket replaced, racing studs installed, other assoc components replaced few years ago. Y pipes replaced two years ago.
3 weeks ago had oil change and service. Last week engine started making roaring sound. Hubby raised hoid and discovered coolant fill tank cap off ( sitting on battery). Shop owner came to our home and filled with coolant, about 3 gal in. We drive from Houston to Lubbock then Dallas this week. Added about another gal coolant.
Hubby thought he heard an air sound yesterday, but was slight. Today after driving for about an hour at hwy speed, after we slowed for an exit, when throttle depressed again, air noise very loud and turbo weak. Limping home.
Have had some of the flexible hoses replaced in the last year or so as well.
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I have a black, 1996 Volvo V90 that in the past month has begun acting up in an unsettling way.My car has begun to do this weird lurching thing when I have my foot on the brake. It sounds as if I am revving the engine, or as if the engine is trying to turn over. It is nearly always when my foot is on the brake pad, and the car will make the revving sound and try to lurch forwards- as if my foot was not firmly on the brake. When it first happened I even looked at my foot placement on the brake pad to make sure I wasn't accidentally pressing the gas with my shoe. It usually happens after it has been sitting in the unshaded parking lot at my summer internship, within the first 20 minutes of starting the car, and usually when my foot is on the brake (because I am slowing or stopped at a light) but it has happened a few times when I have begun to accelerate from a slow speed or stop as well. Recently, it did this while I was at a stoplight and it completely shut the engine off. It did this twice in that same drive home, but has not done it again in the past week (while it has kept doing the lurching thing and with much more frequency). I have explained my problem to several people and two of them mentioned that it could be the idler, I will not be able to take it into a mechanic until a week from today as I am out of state and cannot find a good Volvo mechanic in my area.
In the meantime, is there any information you can give me as to what is causing this? Or any possible preventative measures I can take until next week when I take it in? This problem is stressing me out every time I get into my car.
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My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
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I have a 1996 Volvo 960 station wagon which I love dearly. It's been a wonderful car, however something new has occurred that has me quite concerned. Whenever I turn on the heater, I smell gas fumes. This doesn't occur when the A/C is working or when I turn the temperature dial beyond the numbers to the red mark. I understand this is a different heat source than the regular heater. When I took my car in to the dealer for its 150,000 miles checkup I told them about this problem. They experienced it, but couldn't find the source of the challenge. They want me to bring it in again and keep it overnight so they have a lot of time to decipher the source of the problem.
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I noticed a cyclical vibration in my '96 Volvo 960. The cycle shortens with increased speed, and specifically at 85 mph it would swell to a peak and then smooth out to disappear over ten seconds. It's not real noticeable, steering wheel slightly shakes and you can feel it in your feet. At 80 mph it was about a 15 second cycle. Any thoughts?
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I have a 1996 volvo 850 when ever its cold outside my engine doesnt wanna start. when it cranks it doesnt stay going it idles down then stalls. What to look for or why its doing this?
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I have a 850 volvo 96 glt with overheating issue. I have replaced everything but still overheating. It only does it when I have been driving for about 15 to 20 mins. It goes just above 3/4 hot but not in to the red before it drops back down to norm temp (half way) it goes up and drops back down during driving and when i stop and turn her off i notice the filler tank bubbling even when the temp sensor is at half way (norm temp). Then with her cold and the lid of the filler tank, I start the car an can see bubbles coming up for the first 5min of warm up?
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I changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and had a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
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So I just got a 96 850 GLT sedan knowing it had some work to be done. Gas gauge, odo, and trip don't function. Its not yet on the road but next week when it is registered I'm hoping to have this fixed.
Now the gas gauge does go all the way down when car is off, but when started it barely gets off E. The low fuel light goes on only sometimes. The trip is stuck on 0 and the odo stuck as well. Without these 3 working no way of knowing fuel level.
Also the guy I bought it from said after he did the brakes the ABS and trac off lights came on. they did go off for like 5 mins on the ride home but came back on. I switched from economy to sport mode on the way(don't know if that is related). The service light comes on and off as it pleases. The thing needs new cv joints as well! I'm hoping this is all I find!
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I changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and Porsche Piwis Tester II a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
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I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
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My 1996 Volvo 850 has a relatively new battery but every few weeks it will go completely dead. A typical situation is this: the car will start fine and we will go to a restaurant but when we come out the battery is so dead that the digital clock is off and the radio pre-sets are lost. The shop has done a lot of diagnostics and replaced the alternator but the problem persists. They have determined that the battery is fine and the current drain when the car is off is within normal specs. And, yes, they have disconnected the light in the glove box. They have done everything they can think of but because the problem is so intermittent it is proving impossible to track down.
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I just bought a 04 s60 and the remote won't open the trunk. How to resolve this?
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I have a 1996 850 glt .... As it is an Automatic, we don't rely on the handbrake to hold the car when parked as where we live is flat etc, but still use it.
Near side rear is fine, Off side rear refuses to work. I have a 1995 t5 that is currently in dry dock so can use for parts etc.
Adjusted up the brake shoes both sides with handbrake released by adjusting to locked on and backing off about 4 clicks. Then adjusted the lever so it gave me about 4-5 clicks before fully on.
NSR works as it should, OSR has had cable, shoes, caliper, disk replaced (all work as they should as individual items)and handbrake still not working.
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Have 1996 850 Turbo sedan. When tank is full the gas gauge needle will only go up 2/3 of the way, when nearing empty, needle is below red line. Gas light does work. Can I just remove instrum. Cluster and manually turn needle to top (after a fill up)? If not can I just replace the gauge/motor behind panel or do I have to replace instrument cluster?
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