Volvo :: 1991 - Died Again - Warning Lights Came On
Mar 7, 2013
I was driving my 91 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon yesterday morning when, out of the blue, the warning lights came on and the engine shut down. I was still able to utilize the wipers and radio as I sat there for an hour waiting for a tow, but whenever I attempted to start the engine, I got a few rumbles but the engine would not turn over. All belts seem to be in place. I just had the water pump replaced. I replaced the alternator 2 years ago when I first bought the car and installed a new battery about 1 year ago.
Any thoughts on what could be the root problem here?
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My 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon died in the middle of the freeway last night without any warning...I was driving it home after purchasing it from a private seller who is completely ignoring me now (of course). The car ran fine on the test drive and fine for the 40 or 50 miles on the way back home and then suddenly stepping on the gas did nothing and I had to get off the road immediately. I'm 8 months pregnant so needless to say, I was extremely freaked out.
Anyways, I had it towed home. Today I went out and started it and it was a little bit hesitant but it started. The RPMs were bouncing around below 1000 and the car sounded like it wanted to stall but didn't.
I read online to start it and turn the AC on see what the RPMs do and that this can diagnose an idle control valve that needs replacing. I went out and started the car again, blasted the AC and now the RPMs were staying steady at 1000 and the car no longer sounded like it was about to stall. The RPMs did shoot up passed 2000 once shortly after turning the AC on. I'm assuming this must mean that the idle control valve needs to be replaced.
Someone else had posted about their car (same model/year as mine) would die unexpectedly and in their case it turned out to be the mass air flow sensor. I am really wondering about the fuel pump, fuel pump sensor / relay.
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1991 740 Wagon 2.3 I4 with turbocharger and an intercooler.
My rear taillamp brake lights do not come on.
Of the 4 red lights on both taillamp cluster, only bottom two red lights stay on when I turn on the head lights. When I step on brake pedal with both headlights on or off, all 4 read lights do not come on.
I only get the middle small red light on. (which probably means the brake light switch on the pedal is fine.) I do have the lamp malfunction warning on when I turn on the headlamp or signal lights on.
I changed the lamp malfunction relay (big red cylinder) but things are the same. Found the bottom right red light had one of its filament broken so replaced the bulb but things are still the same.
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My 1991 240 always had 2 working back up lights. After one of two garage visits recently (with them not working on my lighting), one of the two stopped working.
The last visit (a different garage) I just made with this time the mechanics working on a tail light issue as well as other stuff now has me with the 2nd back up light not working. Since one mechanic lost me the use of one and another mechanic lost me the use of the other.
How I can troubleshoot this and get one or both "back" on my own?
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Just trying to get a list of possible reasons my car is acting funny. I may have one problem or more than one problem.
-The dashboard lights started going on and off intermittently while driving. I could feel the power steering was off but the engine never shut off. This happened first while I was running the A/C, but eventually started happening when the A/C was off. When the A/C was on, the car made a funny squeal sound then more of a grinding. The A/C stopped blowing cold air.
-The same thing would happen when driving through water/rain (the dashboard lights would come on and it felt like the car died but it didnt).
-The other night, the SRS light came on, cars electrical started shutting off. Car died. Jump started it, it ran for a couple miles, then died again. This happened the whole 12 mile trip home.
-Mechanic came over, said it was my battery. Replaced battery. Car died again 3 days later. I noticed the lights on the dashboard came on more while making a turn, but they came on while driving too, so idk if that is a good assumption.
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A friend recently replaced the alternator on my 1991 740 Volvo GL. I got a used one that was a B230FT system, although not sure what that means. I think my 740 GL model is actually a B230F? Anyways, the alternators looked different, the old one was a Denso and didn't have blades. The new one is a Bosch with blades and slightly larger than the original. My friend had to make some modifications to the connections, basically clipping off the end of one of the wires, and exposing the wire so he could connect it to the new alternatlow beam headlights are too dimor.
My car is running, but my to see anything at night so I have to use the brights. And the dash lights, clock, and radio no longer work. The radio does not have "code" on it. It doesn't turn on at all. My mechanic says we have the wrong alternator on there, that the electrical system is different. But other sources said it would work fine. Is this true? Could the wire that he stripped and connected not be fully grounded resulting in these weird electrical failures? I'm still driving the car to work, but it makes me nervous.
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3 weeks ago my father (who died 2 weeks ago) gave me his 1991 Infiniti G20 which he has kept in great condition over the years with the last few being the exception. He's the original owner and I have paperwork from every repair and service it's had. Unfortunately the issue it has now started happening after he passed so I'm not going to get info about how it's been running the last couple years. Now to the good stuff.
When I got the car it was outside under a carport like always (lives near Seattle). I drove the car about 200 miles and then a couple days later I noticed the turn signal stopped working, but not only that there were several things not working. The turn signals (yet hazard lights work), the seat belt motor will not let it roll back across my chest, the blower won't work but the AC and heat still works, the rear defogger stopped, the ABS stopped, and the warning lights and sounds for doors open and seat belts were undone don't work.
Then while driving everything just "clicked" back on for about 5 minutes, then "clicked back off the rest of the drive. The next day I started the car, everything was fine but after waiting a couple minutes for the windows to get defogged everything shut off again. Driving around with foggy windows, no turn signals, and no seat belt across my chest is starting to scare me. Oh, and the problem can turn on and off without the engine on. If I just put the key into the "on" position it will sometime switch between working and not working.
I have unplugged and replugged the fuses and relays on the left side under the steering wheel, I've checked the voltage of the battery (2 years old with 7 year warranty and alternator was replaced 18 months ago) and it was about 12.4. I've tried reading the wiring diagram in the service manual without any luck figuring it out. When I took it to the Nissan dealership they did their scans and couldn't recreate the issue and charged me $100 just for doing the electrical tests.
I want this car to keep going since it has 174,000 miles and runs great (manual trans) so need to figure out whats going on. It doesn't seem like it's a loose wire because the car doesn't have to move for it to go back and forth between working and failing. It sometimes works more often if the car is kept in a garage but even then I'm not sure. At one point in the last year a couple mice got into the trunk but they have since left and I don't see anything in the manual that says they could have effected anything all the way back there.
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I have my 2004 Prius in the shop for a replacement of the HV battery pack. The car has approx. 120,00 miles on it.
The battery failed with all the lights, warning symbols etc. I just got a call from the dealership that its going to take longer than expected to get the car back to me. They have the battery pack replacement, but when doing the replacement, they noticed that the cables were "corroded." The cables for the battery need to be replaced before they will complete the repair. But the cables need to be ordered and won't be in soon.
Is this common? for these cables to corrode? Would this problem have caused the HV battery failure?
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Wife was driving in the Target parking lot when the warning lights came on. Car shuddered and died shortly thereafter. I just had the car in for them to replace a leaking bolt on the oilpan. After I got the car back the power steering would go off for small periods of time. The idle was also raised to approx 1000rpm. It used to idle at 500 prior to the replacement of the bolt, car was jittery at a stoplight, vibrating alot and jumping when you released the brake. Its in the shop now, and they are installing a new alternator. They will check on the other issues once the alternator is done. Its a 2007 B6 4MO Wagon....
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Gen II Prius, 151000 miles, HV battery died (rapid charging / discharging, cooling fan on high constantly, etc) Installed remanufactured HV battery. Connect it all back up, test drive, get the triangle of death, VSC, amber (!), and MIL on MFD. Car continues to drive normally until shutdown, upon next startup lights still present and won't shift into D or R only N. Pull codes, POAA6 is showing.
Code doesn't reset with car in ign on (not ready) after 60 seconds, make car ready and shift immediately to N. Code resets after 30 sec. Have done this trouble shooting 4 times and code always resets with ready on and in N. This points to the HV 'leak' being either in the wiring harness or the inverter. What I can do next in order to figure out which one?
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I have a 1999 Volvo XC 70 with 152,000 miles. Last Wednesday after driving it about 3 miles and stopping it, i restarted it and the following 4 warning lights all came on at once: Brake, ABS, check engine and the shift arrow light came on and was flashing. By the time i got home (about 3 more miles), both the ABS and Brake lights had turned off (and haven't come back on). When i started it the following morning, the flashing arrow light was also off (and has not come back on). The only light that remains on a week later is the check engine light. The car performed that day perfectly, and has been performing perfectly even since, and there are no weird noises, smells, etc. It has been a fantastic car for the 6-7 years i have owned it and it has been very well maintained. Last Wednesday it was cold outside (25-30), but not terribly cold and this car has seen way colder weather and has done just fine.
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Battery died and car (LS 460) was jumped started. Every warning light is on how do I turn them off. Car was running perfectly until battery was drained.
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I have a 1991 Volvo 240 Base with an Automatic Transmission. Just yesterday, I was hopping onto the highway, when all of a sudden, my car would not go any faster than 40 to 45 MPH. It has been running fine up to that point. I ended up just taking side streets, where it ran fine. I have not taken it on the highway after that.
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1991 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 ... Cruising at 55 down highway truck died for 2-3 seconds only to refire itself. After doing so for a few days it wouldn't start at all. Changed fuel pump,fuel filter and all spark plugs. Now runs fine until I shut it off briefly. Then it stalls on me on 3rd,4th and 5th gears. Bucks badly. Is it a fuel issue or something to do with starting it while it's warm. Also it runs good with the check light ON. Soon as it goes off it starts shutting off and refiring itself when I give it gas.
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I recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
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Starts great, idles great, tested everything. Will not rev past 1500rpm.
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1991 940 SE Turbo ... I am trying to figure out why there is no power to the 10 amp fuel pump fuse. Drove the car all day with no issues at all.. The next morning it just wont start. Found it wasn't getting fuel..I have replaced the tank pump thinking a shorted pump would disable the system, I have replaced the in tank Fuel Pump, Nothing. The fuel pump relay, Nothing, and pulled the under car fuel pump and checked it and its fine. I don't get it?? what could it be? I went to the library to get a copy of the wiring diagram, but the Chilton's Mechanic wiring bible was so smudged I could not even read it..
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My '91 240 races when turned on when motor cold, colder it is the moreso, especially in Park and Neutral till it calms down It's happening under 60 degrees Fahrenheit and big time under 32. Sometimes turning steering wheel sharply will stop this. Is this ECU? Transmission? Belts? There seems too show excess transmission fluid on the dipstick, by the way lately, which may have been that way from accidental overfill and may not be related t this insane racing issue.)
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I am acquiring a 1991 Volvo 740 Turbo and am concerned about the need to change the timing belt. The seller does not have record of it being changed since he had the car for two years. He had only put about 10,000 miles on it since he had acquired it. It now has 186,000 miles and runs perfect and basically in good shape for its age. If the belt breaks does it ruin the engine?
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My 1991 Volvo 240 with automatic transmission suddenly stopped shifting out of first. No warning. Fluid level is good.
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My sister's 1991 Volvo 240 automatic. She is scared to drive it. When we push the accelerator fully down while in park the car makes a sound of accelerating hard and decelerating, it occasionally makes the sound of a backfire. All the sounds are coming from under the hood. When in drive it will not actually accelerate past first gear, it will buck back and forth, and still makes the sounds. Its almost like a shutter. Reverse is the same. We recorded the sounds.
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