Volvo :: 1986 - Engine Misfire At Idle Speed
Apr 11, 2012
1986 volvo turbo. I am at my wits end with my car. I know very little about car repair and maintenance and that alone makes me enraged.
So my car is very old and has not been taken care of before I owned it. It did misfire at idle speed before but very rarely, now it seems that ever since I put more oil in the misfires happen way more frequently.
I put in a synthetic 10w 30 oil and the engine is way more quiet now and the gas mileage is slightly better...but ever since I put it in the misfires are frequent. I do not know if it is a vacuum leak or a spark plug problem, or if it has something to do with the oil
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My 2011 Kia Rio5 is misfiring bad, especially at idle and low speeds. I took it in to a non-dealer mechanic (since I'm no longer under warranty) and no codes came up. They said coil #3 was arcing, so they went ahead and replaced it and the spark plug. When I drove it home the car was misfiring more than ever. It misfired a couple years ago and I had a coil replaced (#3?) and a couple months after that it did it again. I could took it to another dealer (both happened while under warranty) and they said the reason the coil went out before was because the spark plugs were bad and hadn't been changed. So they replaced the #3 coil and spark plugs and it was fine until recently. I'm scheduled to take it to a kia dealer service dept. on friday, does this still seem like a coil issue? If not, what could it be?
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I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
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I’ve been having an engine misfire issue for a number of months. The dealership first changed the plugs, ignition cable kit and wiring, and that fixed it for a while. Then it came back and dealership couldn’t figure it out. They tested the O2 sensor and drove it around for a week to no avail. So I kept driving and have noticed a few trends. First the car drives better in overdrive, or when the rpms are 3,000 or above. Second when the car stalls, if I am trying to restart it immediately I have to give it some gas. Third it doesn’t mind idling in park. And fourth I’ve been having a battery drain. To solve the battery drain I’ve been charging the battery every night, and that definitely works, but I only get about 20 miles before the misfire comes back, and sometimes the misfire is just there immediately regardless. So I just replaced my alternator, and that didn’t solve the issue either. So what else could be the issue? I'm kinda at a loss and driving the car on the highway when the misfire starts is not exactly safe.
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I have an '86 245 with an intermittant engine stutter for the last several months. This only happens after the car has been running for about 20 minutes or on a hot day. It will stutter for several seconds (some times die) and then function normally for the next 5 to 30 minutes before it stutters again.The car was tuned up about 1 month before the problem startedI replaced the fuel pump relay, did not work. The shop told me the in tank pump was bad so they replaced that. This seemed to fix the problem but a month later it started to do it again.
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On my 86' 740 the cranking has been kinda lengthy and a bit weak as if the battery is going bad. I finally had an episode where the cranking and the start was stranding me. After three attempts and keeping the throttle wide opened it started. What is now strange is the crank is strong and faster as if something broke loose or got reset.
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One of the rear doors on my 86 wagon won't unlock. The lock button goes up and down, both manually and automatically, but the door won't open and it feels as though it is still locked. I'd rather not cut a hole in the door panel! Perhaps I should have a locksmith get the door open and then I should remove the door panel to lube the locking mechanism? Is there any way to lube things without removing the door panel or consulting a locksmith? I can roll the window up and down.
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After fixing no brake lights on my 86' 740 I still can't get the inner ones to work. To fix the problem I changed the brake lamp failure relay. The bulbs are good. The relay was used.
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I have a 1986 Volvo 240. It has a button to push on the stick shift to put it in 5th gear. It drives and works fine except when I downshift from 5th gear. ..then it seems confused and has a hard time getting back into gear, it kind of hesitates and lurches forward. It will not go into reverse after it has been in 5th gear until I turn off the ignition, and start it again.
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I just purchased a 1986 Volvo 240DL, it runs great, but slow and the Ac is like ice. Only real issues are a rattling coming from the rear(exhaust mount I think) and
most importantly the steering is super light. No effort required at all.
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My pops has a 86 ranger with a 2.9. And what its been doing is, it will start up just fine then u give it a minute and itll start to run very rough like a bad miss fire, then if he revs it up for a bit. It will clear out and then run just fine until he starts it up again and it seems to do it more the colder it gets and it smells very rich. Iv checked the injectors and there fine, what other things could it be ? O2 sensors oorrr
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A friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
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My 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD has an engine whistle at idle, but it stops momentarily when I turn the stearing wheel left or right, then comes back. Whats up?
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60. I just got in it to go to the store and I swear it is possessed! My engine immediately began shaking and rumbling the idle went from very high to dangerously low. I cut it off and cut it back on. There was no rumbling but now it is idling very high close to 3.5 rpm when it does settle after a while if i even touch the gas a little it shoots right back up. My emission error message is showing but i have had it looked at a few times and they can't find anything wrong with the emissions system. Recently my transmission message came on and stayed on for a week or so but went back off before I could have it looked at and it never drove any different even when the light was on
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My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
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The engine on my camry 2007 was overheated and I had the headgasket replaced but now it has misfire codes and rough idle this is a 2.4 engine I replaced 2 of the coils but still it has a rough idle... when the car is running it runs pretty good.
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My windstar 3.8 engine has idle problems and engine light comes on at times. Code po305 (misfire #5). When I add sea-form to tank and drive awhile, the engine light goes out and the engine idle's normal. Is this an eva problem and what should I look for?
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I've got an '88 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon: 5-speed, 225K miles, that's been acting up over the last year. She doesn't burn oil (qt in 1500 typical) and appears to still be tight. The Turbo works and bearings make no noise. The engine service light does NOT glow (but I admit I haven't checked the bulb). I do have a Haynes manual and have been using it to assist with some results (see replaced items), but I'm not trained on this car and this manual is woefully lacking in good diags for some obvious things. (IMG: [URL] .....)
Symptoms: She cold starts OK, but try to restart warmed at all and she usually has to sit at least an hour or no go. Outside temp seems to make little difference. There's a gassy smell while cranking warm and it's very much like a flooded carburetor engine. Often, the engine will finally catch with the pedal floored after a long crank. Also, after warming and driving a few minutes, the idle erratically will not return to normal, sitting up at 1800-2700 RPM for a bit before finally calming down. It was also running a little rough. There's a fair amount of carbon at the exhaust pipe and MPG is only ~20 and I'm a light foot. The idle RPM varies a bit much moving around between 600-1100 RPM warm.
What I've done this year: It had a broken thermostat (replaced), failing alternator (replaced), failed starter (replaced), failing fuel pump (replaced with filter), recent oil change (has turned black after 800 miles). Most grounds around engine and firewall and 12 volt ignition contacts cleaned. The bat cables were cleaned and terminals coated. Ohm tested the injectors OK (all exactly the same, on spec) and they all "click" in operation. I replaced a bad coil (low ohms by 20% for both primary and 2nd) and changed the carbon fouled plugs (which were also ill-gapped by some hamhand), both of which worked for the roughness considerably. The plug wires all came up roses well under 10k ohms. The battery was a suspect for testing low so much when resting, but the alternator seems to have slowly fixed that (and problems come when system is charging OK). However, the main warm start and idle problem persists. (IMG: [URL] ....)
My next good guess: An obvious rich condition exists and, having eliminated quite a few other things, a sticking "Air Control Valve" seems the likely suspect (some call it an idle control valve but I'm going by the manual). My specific observations of this device: after a warm no start, I pulled the ACV electrical lead and she fired right up and idled well at 16-1800 RPM. I plugged it back in and she chugged and nearly died before idling ~800 RPM. As it idled normally, I pulled the rubber hose from the upstream air connection to the ACV and it chugged and died within 5 seconds. I noted the vacuum was very strong. Putting the hose on, it wouldn't restart till I removed the electrical lead again. The ACV circuit has continuity at the device but I haven't ohm tested it yet. My best diag is the mechanical part of the ACV is gummed up or worn out. The Haynes manual was almost no way in arriving at this conclusion. (IMG: [URL] ....)
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I own a 2001 BMW 325i. I bought it in 2011, it was in excellent condition, except for a small oil leak. I fixed the leak and then everything started happening. I've replaced so many things in this car that I've actually put more in to it then what I paid for it. This last issue was a rough idle and the scanner was showing me the code for a misfire. I took it in to the mechanic, he found that it was the first injector, replaced it, the night I picked it up it was still doing the same thing...engine light popped on. I brought it back the next day, they kept it for over a week, running test after test, finally they did an internal survey and found that the first cylinder is damaged and the shop has condemned the engine. My question is this: Is there no way to repair a cylinder? How or why does this happen and how much longer can I drive the car before it craps out on me. So far, it is rough when it's cold..but once it warms up it rides just fine. Engine light comes on and then goes off.
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I have a 3.0 Ranger, AT 2WD, from 2001 with 175K miles on it. I have a CEL on, with Misfire cylinder #5.
Also when the truck is cold and I step on the gas, it seems to run on like 3 cylinder for 2-3seconds and then it somehow fixes itself and runs great until it warms up.
After it warms up, it shakes violently at idle. The shaking goes completely away once I'm past 1200 rpm or while driving. What I tried so far:
- All new Motorcraft filters (Air, fuel)
- Motorcraft Plugs
- Motorcraft Wires
- Motorcraft Coil
- Ran thru two cans of SeaFoam
- Checked injector resistance
- "Reset" the ECU
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned IAC
What else I need to check?
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On my way to work, my check engine light started blinking and car was sputtering (real bad on idle). I ran the code and it came back with misfires codes. I changed the coils/plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump last year. Can the coils be bad already? When I clear the codes the car will run fine for a little while. But after a couple miles CEL will blink and the car will run roughly again.
Car : 2004 Golf 2.0
Codes:
16684: random multiple misfires
16648: fuel injector #2 short to ground
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