I have a Volvo P1800 I am restoring. The problem I have is the brakes don't work. The brake peddle does to the floor so I think and have read that this is due to the master brake cylinder. I removed the to of the master reservoir and found it is bone dry but the main reservoir is full? Why this is if the seals have failed surely there would still be brake fluid in the master reservoir???
View 3 Repliesthe blinkers keep working and not working now they aren't of course.. but the left one only worked then something happened and the left only stayed on (not blinking) when the head lights were on. then it switched now they don't turn on at all. the fuses are good the relay is good all the wires are good I got new bulbs in as well and pointers. it's a Pontiac starchief 1966 and the flasher is good
View 1 RepliesThe 289 V-8 of my 66 Mustang was rebuilt and now runs very hot. I have difficulty starting it whether cold or hot?
View 16 RepliesMy car will start up but wont idle when it idle it starts to die and gas just overflows thee carb and the motor slowly dies. Its a 1966 pontiac starchief with a rochester carb and 421....
View 12 RepliesJust got a 66 f100. Some one cut out the ignition. It has a toggle switch that doesn't seem to do anything, turned it to on and used a screwdriver to short the solenoid and it did not crank. I think I counted 9 cut wires in the area of the ignition counting 2 for the toggle. My other 61-66 trucks seem to just have five wires? So I can remove an ignition from one of these parts trucks, but might there be a difference since the gauges are unique to 1966 ?
Started to take the ignition out of my 62 f600 but i hate to cut wires but i must since there is no remnant of an ignition in the 66 f100. If I can match the five wires i should be ok. Just putting a battery in i have headlights, tailights and dash lights. Solenoid and cable to starter look horrible so i bought a new cable. I think i have a good solenoid or two? I didn't even get a spark when i shorted the solenoid with a screwdriver....
The AM radio part of the radio does not work. The FM radio and everything else works but AM radio.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 S70 and the ABS kicks in at in appropriate times, and stays stuck on (i.e. the pedal vibrates every time I touch the pedal and I can hear a loud buzzing sound even if I am not applying the brakes). After a while, the noise stops, but the ABS and TRACS lights come on. The first time this happened my mechanic replaced the ABS module and the problem went away for a while. The problem has resurfaced and each time "fixes" the problem for free, but it keeps happening. A) What is the root of the problem? B) Can I fix this myself every time it happens in the future?
View 1 RepliesSuddenly, the horn on my '97 Volvo V90 (wagon - really a 960 wagon) stopped working. The mechanic checked out connections. The only thing he came up with was to get inside the column and see if a wire had come loose. Not only is that wildly expensive, but the air bag issue is a big deal. Finding a junk yard with a wheel, horn and column is impossible for this model. I have to pass inspection soon. Testing in and around the column? And, if after all testing is done, what are the options??
View 1 RepliesI have a XC90 and starting recently the air volume doesn't work anymore. To be exact, you can feel very light air coming out of the vent even you turn the air volume to max. I went to a shop and was later told nothing wrong with the fan or the resistor. So they suspected it could be something wrong with the computers but since they normally work on American/Asian cars, they dont have the software for European cars to proceed further. On the way back home, I suddenly felt some steady air coming out, but it keeps at the same strength no matter how you play around with all those air volume buttons.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1966 Plymouth Fury 2, and I have a few questions regarding fixing this up.
These cars had the option of having power steering, however, the original owner when purchased did not want that feature. I was curious as to how much trouble it would be to add power steering to my car. It's not that hard to drive with no power steering, but the steering wheel is massive and I imagine it would have to be to be able to move into tight spots at slow speeds. Also, though, driving with ease would be a plus, and not accidentally elbowing my woman in the face when I make a turn would be a plus as well.
The floor panels are rusted, which is normal for older cars. But, is there a way to repair this that doesn't involve welding? Is there a site online that specializes in older car parts?
The system is charged, the fan looks working, but the a/c works well only when the cars is moving. What is it?
We think it works well if the "rear ac" is on, but that's not normal anyway.
The system is charged, a autozone tester say overloaded but the gauge of a technician says is ok, then who knows. The fan is working and the car never goes overheat, then I guess that fan is working good.
I've been in some version of a Volvo since I inherited my parents brick-colored sedan in high school. It was a tank, ran forever and kept me safe and protected. Years later I bought a new black Volvo sedan. In 2006 with a hubby and two kids, I decided that I could graduate to the SUV. Feeling like I'd made a fantastically safe and practical decision, I drive my silver XC90 to work and on road trips. It's not the fanciest nor sexiest vehicle, but I feel my family is safe.
Hard working folks should not have huge budget surprises like my Volvo SUV has turned into. Little did I know what I was getting myself into when I made this purchase. When I took it into the Culver City dealer for my 30,000 mile service yesterday, I found out that my Volvo XC90 needed it's second replacement rotors and brake pads. I'd already been through this expense at 17,000 miles, much to my surprise. I'd never heard of needing to replace brake pads and rotors at 17,000.
Now, at 30,000 miles the local dealer's service department told me I needed another set at a cost of $1,000.
I have friends driving a Toyota or a Honda that rarely require maintenance or repairs. Volvo is an expensive vehicle to buy and it gets you every time you visit the service department and all repairs are expensive. It's disappointing to say the least.
My 89 240 is a project car so I am just fixing everything up as new until it's all done.
Replaced the Brake Booster with a fully reconditioned one, a new master cylinder, full pressure bleed, new pads. Now I have fantastic brakes but they feel super spongy still . As an example, I make an emergency stop to check if they are ok and after stopping just fine , the pedal still wants to go down further. I have checked all the flexible lines for ballooning and they are ok .
My daughter called and told me that her brakes are not coming back up after she has stopped. She had to take her hand and pull the brake pedal up. She has a 2000 Volvo S-40. What is the matter?
View 3 RepliesWhen I have to brake suddenly, at about 35 miles an hour, I begin to get strong vibrations in the steering wheel and the same in the brakes. After 35 miles an hour (and prior to this speed), it's relatively smooth. I'm also starting to notice an unevenness in my tires. I've gotten it checked out and was told that my brakes still have wear, but there was a little "warping."
View 2 RepliesVolvo XC90 T6 AWD (2004) Changed my battery and now my turn signals won't work, won't show from display panel (interior) or light up (exterior), and my fog lamps are also not working. Used a memory settings save backup and checked fuses but can't figure out what's wrong. Electrical worked fine before battery change. Battery was aftermarket (non-OEM).
View 2 RepliesMy 1990 Volvo 760 turbo has a problem. The brakes are sometimes hard to depress (although they work). When this happens, there are accompanying problems with sluggish acceleration and difficulty with the automatic shifting. What's happening?
View 2 RepliesMy 1989 740GL has a blower motor that doesn't work; I looked into it and discovered a blown 30A fuse. So I replaced fuse and guess what? "POP"! No luck... It keeps blowing them, so I really haven't looked that far into it, but where I might start?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 850. About a year ago, I suddenly had a loud grinding noise coming from my brakes. It only happened in hot weather and when the brakes seemed to be hot. Also, it only happened when I was coming to a final stop, like the last 10-20 feet. I took my car to my "trusted" mechanic. They diagnosed it as being my front pads and rotors, so they replaced them (they also felt the front vibrating.) NOW the brakes seemed okay after I got it back the second time (no loud grinding noise.)
When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.
A friend recently replaced the alternator on my 1991 740 Volvo GL. I got a used one that was a B230FT system, although not sure what that means. I think my 740 GL model is actually a B230F? Anyways, the alternators looked different, the old one was a Denso and didn't have blades. The new one is a Bosch with blades and slightly larger than the original. My friend had to make some modifications to the connections, basically clipping off the end of one of the wires, and exposing the wire so he could connect it to the new alternatlow beam headlights are too dimor.
My car is running, but my to see anything at night so I have to use the brights. And the dash lights, clock, and radio no longer work. The radio does not have "code" on it. It doesn't turn on at all. My mechanic says we have the wrong alternator on there, that the electrical system is different. But other sources said it would work fine. Is this true? Could the wire that he stripped and connected not be fully grounded resulting in these weird electrical failures? I'm still driving the car to work, but it makes me nervous.
I have had to return my V50 twice for ABS associated problems. The first time to change a speed sensor then to replace the passenger side front hub. Now the car is making a soft shhhhhh sound for a split second whenever I drive off. According to the car manual on page 8, the car tests the ABS system "when the car first reaches the speed of 12 mph... The brake pedal will pulsate several times and a sound may be audible from the ABS control module. This is normal."or so the manual says.
My pedal has never pulsated except when I was having problems with the ABS system. In Honolulu, there is only 1 Volvo dealer and according to them the shhhh sound is normal. The repair tech went so far as to take me for a drive in a new 2011 V50, which did make the same sound. I am concerned only because I feel the braking system is important to me and the history of ABS issues. Volvo Customer service deferred to the dealers' service center. Should I take it in because the brake is not pulsating.