Volkswagen - Rabbit - Transmissions :: 2007 - While Slowing Down Downshifts From 3rd To 1st Gear
Feb 4, 2011
My girlfriend has a 2007 Volkswagen Rabbit, and she said that occasionally when she slows down as she's getting off the freeway her car downshifts from third to first really quickly and she's concerned. She took it to the dealer but, of course, they couldn't tell what was wrong because it only happens on occasion. They said it might have something to do with the brakes pumping if she slows down too fast. The car has 60,000 miles on it.
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It is a 2001 1.8T Golf, automatic. 75000 miles on it, mostly highway. I returned from my recent road trip, halfway across the country, which involved a couple of snow storms but otherwise everything ran smoothly.The day after I got back, I was going to dinner and the car wouldn't shift up out of 1st gear... unless I gunned it to almost 40 mph. Next time I started it, the check engine light turned on. I have driven it 3 miles, twice, since then and the problem remains. What the problem might be, if I'll need to replace transmission or just some fluid, or get a new car?
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I have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
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I have a 1984 VW Rabbit, 4 cyl., 5 spd, that chokes off when I slow down to stop....
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I have a 2006 VW Rabbit with 106k miles. It is an automatic. Strange problem: if it is raining AND the traction control symbol comes on (I slip), then the EPC light comes on and the car is slow to shift and has poor acceleration. This does not happen if it is not raining and it does not happen just when it's raining. One mechanic recommended cleaning the throttle body, but since the car runs great all other times, this didn't make sense to me.
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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This just started today and when I turned off my car and removed the key from the ignition, the radio stayed on. Also, when I opened the door, the door chime came on as if the lights were still on and now I'm not able to lock the car or set the alarm using my key. I've read that some vw cars are wired so that the radio stays on after the car is turned off, but this has never been the case with my car. My main concern is battery drainage and being unable to lock and arm my alarm.
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My VW Rabbit (2007) has water in the spare tire well (under hatchback floor); under the floor mats in the back (passenger side has puddled up over the floor mat); appears to have water inside the driver side wall (seat belts are damp and have mildew); appears to have water leaking from under the passenger side onto the ground (backseat end).
This is not a case of windows or sun roof having been left open. Nor have I driven through a flooded area of significance. Last year the rear-passenger-side of this car was destroyed in a 50mph hit by an SUV and insurance co. chose to have it repaired rather than total....
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I bought a used 2008 Rabbit about two year ago. Recently, I have been experiencing two problems:
Sometimes, when I am idling at a light, my car stalls and the EPC and battery lights turn on. If I turn off my car and back on it then runs fine.
Last night, I drove my car to two stops. At the second stop, the car wouldn't turn on. I got a jump and drove it straight to the mechanic's. This morning they said the battery is charged and the car is turning on fine. They cannot find anything so far that is draining the battery.
What might be causing these two problems?
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Let me start by saying that I love my silly old Rabbit. Presently though I am irritated and confused by its new quirk. When starting it spins with out turning over. It sounds to me like it is not getting fuel. It also tends to backfire (or something else that causes a small amount of smoke). It does inevitably start and once it is running it seems fine. It got a full tuneup this spring, I have checked the fuel pump and replaced the fuel regulator. The problem persists. My present theory is that it has something to do with the ghost that lives in the wiring that recently made half of my instrument cluster dead, but that could and just be its own problem.
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At around 70 mph when I am going down a hill the automatic transmission will shift down from overdrive into 3rd or even 2nd gear. It should stay in Overdrive. I have to tap the gas pedal to keep it in overdrive. They already looked at the TPS. Also, around 75 mph my ABS light goes on and stays on until I restart the car. Not sure if this is related. Just had a complete brake job.
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I am getting to the point with this car that I can't stand driving it This thing where the transmission downshifts as I slow down and come to a red light is the most obnoxious feeling I've ever experienced in a car. What's worse, is when I go to speed up again and it's in the middle of one of its downshifts and hick up so bad it feels like it's can fall out of the bottom of the car. I'm done trying to deal with Toyota dealerships, all they do is tell me that Toyotas don't have transmission problems and that my car is fine unless it kicks on a light.
I feel like if this transmission was reprogrammed to act more like a normal transmission Like the electronically controlled transmission that was in the 1995 Alexis that I sold a few months ago, or my wife's 2006 solara or the 2008 I asked to 50 I used to have, the car would be fine. But this thing is neurotic, jerky, and unpredictable.
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I have a great vw 2008 rabbit with 115,00 miles on her. I just completed a round trip. On my way back during terrible stop and go Washington DC traffic..I noticed the car started to rev a bit. After that the idle has been rough with some light shaking. No engine light, but it does sound almost like it is choking a bit. Not extreme..but definitely not the smooth engine sound I had. I am guilty of NEVER HAVING MAINTENANCE on her..so I had new spark plugs put in and a new air filter. The problem is less..but the idle is still on the rough side.
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VW Rabbit 09 - Makes a loud noise coming from the back of the car, at first I suspected exhaust, but it does not get louder from hitting the gas. The noise gets louder the faster car moves starting around 20 mph. It sounds like it is running at high RPMs but the tachometer does not read over 3000 RPM. There is no check engine light on currently, in the past the light has come on after driving through puddles and then the car could not shift into the higher gears and would be stuck at 40 mph.Eventually, it would resolve itself. I have inspected the exhaust but I can not see anything that would cause the noise. The transmission does seem a little sluggish to shift, but it is a smooth shift.
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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Our son's van transmission makes a clunk sound when it downshifts while slowing for a stoplight. Sign of a serious problem? Transaxle?
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First, the specifics: 1993 Ford Tempo 4-cyl Auto 78,000 miles (the proverbial little old lady car.) From a stop, the car will rev clear up to about 30 mph before shifting out of first into second. It will stay in second well past 60 mph, and even then, I have to kick it hard to make that happen. It's not that it won't shift; bit it seems to delay well past where it should. If I do manage to get it into 3rd, there's a pronounced thunk when it downshifts at a higher rev than it should when I slow down.
Now the background & other info: It's not my car. My B-I-L lent me this car because I ride a motorcycle all winter, & he took pity on me for the rainy & snowy days. In return, I offered to fix an annoying rattle. The problems went well past that, of course. The second day I drove it to work, it overheated and spewed clouds of steam in the parking garage. I had to have it towed home. That turned out to be a split in one of the heater hoses.
Disturbingly, however, the temp gauge on the dash never rose off of "C" on the ride in. I had expected to be replacing a water pump, but the heater hose seemed to be the only issue. Just the same, I replaced the thermostat and the temp sensor because I suspected the burst hose was a symptom, not the cause. Sure enough, after it's all put back together, the dashboard temp gauge is working better, and a short hop to the grocery store showed no overheating. At least that problem seems solved.
Prior to the coolant issue, the car drove fine (for one day); the shifting problem only surfaced afterward. As a last piece of info, I'll add that I had to add an entire quart of transmission fluid to bring the level between the marks. I didn't check that previously, so I can't say if that was a pre-existing condition. So then - what's the fix here? Could an overheated engine cause the tranny problem? Any chance this can be fixed simply? (FWIW, the rattle is the A/C pulley.)
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I recently had my Transmission flushed at 90K (beyond the 75k). I had my Struts replaced and Full differential service. They found the Carrier bearing Center Ring was blown out said my truck was fine to drive until the part came in. I drove my truck home and it wasn't until I put about 20 miles on my truck did my truck start to slam into 2nd gear. It goes gentle if I accelerate slowly and eases with I turn the OD off ( but I only tried a few times). I have tried a few forums and there are so many things that it could be.
Everything was fine until I had this servicing and they took my truck apart. On a separate unrelated issue I have a check battery light on, but it is a brand new battery. I had my stereo changed out a year ago and the shop said it was the battery failing (only 1.5yrs old). Just though I would throw that in just in case a COMPUTER issue gets thrown out there. My truck has been running fine before all this SERVICING was performed...
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My 2004 VW jetta has 139k on it. Whenever I come to a hard-ish stop or almost-stop, the transmission downshifts to 1st and won't get out of it unless i play with the tiptronic mode selector and coax it to upshift. it shifts well and works well in gingerly driving other than in this circumstance. i took it to a shop and they say (as they always do) it needs a new tranny. I'm wondering out loud if there is some kind of mounting instability issue that could explain this. This is definitely a case of needing a new transmission. I have read a bunch about solenoids being the culprit in general shifting problems, but not this exact set of symptoms and circumstances.
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I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
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I have gear noise in my 2007 Liberty 4 X 4. It sounds like it is coming from the rear axle and is more pronounced under acceleration or decelleration.
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