Volkswagen - Rabbit :: Radio Stays On After Removing Key From Ignition
Mar 5, 2012
This just started today and when I turned off my car and removed the key from the ignition, the radio stayed on. Also, when I opened the door, the door chime came on as if the lights were still on and now I'm not able to lock the car or set the alarm using my key. I've read that some vw cars are wired so that the radio stays on after the car is turned off, but this has never been the case with my car. My main concern is battery drainage and being unable to lock and arm my alarm.
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I have a strange problem with my radio in 2012 Sonata GLS. I sometimes turn on the car and radio makes low pitch noise. I switch off the car but radio stays on making noise and radio display stays lit, I try to turn off the radio - does not work, I press radio buttons - no response - only low pitch noise. In the end I need to disconnect battery and it fixes the problem. This happened 2 or 3 times over last 4 months. I am not sure how I can consistently reproduce the problem.
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Lately when i take my key out of the ignition, my radio stays on and my car will chime with the door open as if the key was still in the ignition (and it lasts for different periods of time). I also have found it more difficult to get the key in and out. Obviously there is something wrong with the ignition.
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I own a 2013 Elantra GT that my wife drives. We have had it since late September 2012, so it is about 20 months old now, with only 2250 miles. Yes, I know, it is not even broken in yet.
Anyway, yesterday when the wife returned from some shopping she told me that the radio in the car is still on after the engine was off, the ignition locked and the key in your hand.
I checked it out, and sure enough, the radio was still on. I restarted the car, and discovered the power button would not turn the radio off, the radio volume could not be changed, and the station could not be changed. Every control for the Audio system was inoperative, along with all the control buttons on the left side of the steering wheel.
Every thing else in the car appeared to work. When I shut the engine off, and removed the key, the radio still played on. I took the car over to the dealership first thing this morning; the service rep, the service manager and a service tech could not figure it out. I had to leave the car with them, so that one of their Electronic Certified Techs who comes in later could check it out.
They drove the car to a service bay, and disconnected the battery, so the radio would not run the battery down. When the tech came in, he reconnected the battery, and everything now works. They have no idea at all what happened.
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I have a 1984 VW Rabbit, 4 cyl., 5 spd, that chokes off when I slow down to stop....
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I have a 2006 VW Rabbit with 106k miles. It is an automatic. Strange problem: if it is raining AND the traction control symbol comes on (I slip), then the EPC light comes on and the car is slow to shift and has poor acceleration. This does not happen if it is not raining and it does not happen just when it's raining. One mechanic recommended cleaning the throttle body, but since the car runs great all other times, this didn't make sense to me.
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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This started today, when I turn off the ignition and remove the key the radio stays on and the steering column does not lock. The guy at the dealership suggested spraying wd 40 into the ignition. No go.
2008 sonata.
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My VW Rabbit (2007) has water in the spare tire well (under hatchback floor); under the floor mats in the back (passenger side has puddled up over the floor mat); appears to have water inside the driver side wall (seat belts are damp and have mildew); appears to have water leaking from under the passenger side onto the ground (backseat end).
This is not a case of windows or sun roof having been left open. Nor have I driven through a flooded area of significance. Last year the rear-passenger-side of this car was destroyed in a 50mph hit by an SUV and insurance co. chose to have it repaired rather than total....
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I bought a used 2008 Rabbit about two year ago. Recently, I have been experiencing two problems:
Sometimes, when I am idling at a light, my car stalls and the EPC and battery lights turn on. If I turn off my car and back on it then runs fine.
Last night, I drove my car to two stops. At the second stop, the car wouldn't turn on. I got a jump and drove it straight to the mechanic's. This morning they said the battery is charged and the car is turning on fine. They cannot find anything so far that is draining the battery.
What might be causing these two problems?
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My girlfriend has a 2007 Volkswagen Rabbit, and she said that occasionally when she slows down as she's getting off the freeway her car downshifts from third to first really quickly and she's concerned. She took it to the dealer but, of course, they couldn't tell what was wrong because it only happens on occasion. They said it might have something to do with the brakes pumping if she slows down too fast. The car has 60,000 miles on it.
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Let me start by saying that I love my silly old Rabbit. Presently though I am irritated and confused by its new quirk. When starting it spins with out turning over. It sounds to me like it is not getting fuel. It also tends to backfire (or something else that causes a small amount of smoke). It does inevitably start and once it is running it seems fine. It got a full tuneup this spring, I have checked the fuel pump and replaced the fuel regulator. The problem persists. My present theory is that it has something to do with the ghost that lives in the wiring that recently made half of my instrument cluster dead, but that could and just be its own problem.
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I have a great vw 2008 rabbit with 115,00 miles on her. I just completed a round trip. On my way back during terrible stop and go Washington DC traffic..I noticed the car started to rev a bit. After that the idle has been rough with some light shaking. No engine light, but it does sound almost like it is choking a bit. Not extreme..but definitely not the smooth engine sound I had. I am guilty of NEVER HAVING MAINTENANCE on her..so I had new spark plugs put in and a new air filter. The problem is less..but the idle is still on the rough side.
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VW Rabbit 09 - Makes a loud noise coming from the back of the car, at first I suspected exhaust, but it does not get louder from hitting the gas. The noise gets louder the faster car moves starting around 20 mph. It sounds like it is running at high RPMs but the tachometer does not read over 3000 RPM. There is no check engine light on currently, in the past the light has come on after driving through puddles and then the car could not shift into the higher gears and would be stuck at 40 mph.Eventually, it would resolve itself. I have inspected the exhaust but I can not see anything that would cause the noise. The transmission does seem a little sluggish to shift, but it is a smooth shift.
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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My 95 vw golf wont start I've tried push starting and jumping. it runs fine. The alarm just started going off randomly. So I disabled it and hot wielder starter wires. It turns over but will not start.
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After I could not figure why I was having the alarm light I drove the car to a mechanic, explained my sleepless nights and many hours of problem analysis, and then the mechanic took his code reader, connected to the OBD car port, made a few clicks, and charged me $45 and then sent me off. The alarm light has not been back since - it blinks as expected when I start the car.
On my further research I have found that VW airbag light will come on if you check airbag with your ghetto OBD code reader - exactly what I had read! It registers "high resistance", and must be reset by someone with a qualified code reader!
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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I got an automatic VW Golf 3 1995 75ps for my wife, Basically it was a gift, the car is in OK conditions, motor works very decent and for my own amusement the thing actually drives great! The only problem is in 3rd gear, the car change between gears clean and very tight, the problem is when the car accelerates the revolutions goes up buuuut the speed stays basically the same, until I put my foot out of the pedal and reaccelerate, then slowly it works fine but as soon as I put some power on it, it slip, very frustratingly BTW! There is no worrying noise, no smoke, no leak, I haven´t measure the ATF mainly because it is impossible in this car! It is supposed to stay closed forever! (?). My main question is if the ATF can be related with this issue or is it other component of the Transmission? Second question is if the ATF is not related then what can it be?
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe Limited. When I first bought it, I'm pretty sure the headlights would delay turning off for a few seconds after removing the ignition key. Now they turn off as soon as the ignition key is turned off. Is that normal? I can find nothing in the User Manual and the dealer does not seem to know how it works.
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I was able to remove the radio but cant figure out how to unplug the big plug
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