I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
View 10 RepliesI just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 VW Rabbit with 106k miles. It is an automatic. Strange problem: if it is raining AND the traction control symbol comes on (I slip), then the EPC light comes on and the car is slow to shift and has poor acceleration. This does not happen if it is not raining and it does not happen just when it's raining. One mechanic recommended cleaning the throttle body, but since the car runs great all other times, this didn't make sense to me.
View 1 RepliesI have a great vw 2008 rabbit with 115,00 miles on her. I just completed a round trip. On my way back during terrible stop and go Washington DC traffic..I noticed the car started to rev a bit. After that the idle has been rough with some light shaking. No engine light, but it does sound almost like it is choking a bit. Not extreme..but definitely not the smooth engine sound I had. I am guilty of NEVER HAVING MAINTENANCE on her..so I had new spark plugs put in and a new air filter. The problem is less..but the idle is still on the rough side.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1984 VW Rabbit, 4 cyl., 5 spd, that chokes off when I slow down to stop....
View 2 RepliesThis just started today and when I turned off my car and removed the key from the ignition, the radio stayed on. Also, when I opened the door, the door chime came on as if the lights were still on and now I'm not able to lock the car or set the alarm using my key. I've read that some vw cars are wired so that the radio stays on after the car is turned off, but this has never been the case with my car. My main concern is battery drainage and being unable to lock and arm my alarm.
View 2 RepliesMy VW Rabbit (2007) has water in the spare tire well (under hatchback floor); under the floor mats in the back (passenger side has puddled up over the floor mat); appears to have water inside the driver side wall (seat belts are damp and have mildew); appears to have water leaking from under the passenger side onto the ground (backseat end).
This is not a case of windows or sun roof having been left open. Nor have I driven through a flooded area of significance. Last year the rear-passenger-side of this car was destroyed in a 50mph hit by an SUV and insurance co. chose to have it repaired rather than total....
I bought a used 2008 Rabbit about two year ago. Recently, I have been experiencing two problems:
Sometimes, when I am idling at a light, my car stalls and the EPC and battery lights turn on. If I turn off my car and back on it then runs fine.
Last night, I drove my car to two stops. At the second stop, the car wouldn't turn on. I got a jump and drove it straight to the mechanic's. This morning they said the battery is charged and the car is turning on fine. They cannot find anything so far that is draining the battery.
What might be causing these two problems?
My girlfriend has a 2007 Volkswagen Rabbit, and she said that occasionally when she slows down as she's getting off the freeway her car downshifts from third to first really quickly and she's concerned. She took it to the dealer but, of course, they couldn't tell what was wrong because it only happens on occasion. They said it might have something to do with the brakes pumping if she slows down too fast. The car has 60,000 miles on it.
View 3 RepliesLet me start by saying that I love my silly old Rabbit. Presently though I am irritated and confused by its new quirk. When starting it spins with out turning over. It sounds to me like it is not getting fuel. It also tends to backfire (or something else that causes a small amount of smoke). It does inevitably start and once it is running it seems fine. It got a full tuneup this spring, I have checked the fuel pump and replaced the fuel regulator. The problem persists. My present theory is that it has something to do with the ghost that lives in the wiring that recently made half of my instrument cluster dead, but that could and just be its own problem.
View 11 RepliesVW Rabbit 09 - Makes a loud noise coming from the back of the car, at first I suspected exhaust, but it does not get louder from hitting the gas. The noise gets louder the faster car moves starting around 20 mph. It sounds like it is running at high RPMs but the tachometer does not read over 3000 RPM. There is no check engine light on currently, in the past the light has come on after driving through puddles and then the car could not shift into the higher gears and would be stuck at 40 mph.Eventually, it would resolve itself. I have inspected the exhaust but I can not see anything that would cause the noise. The transmission does seem a little sluggish to shift, but it is a smooth shift.
View 1 RepliesI have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and when I first got it, it revved too high well now it revs too low, when im at a stop light it revs at just barely above 0 RPMS and the engine will cut off. it just ate shutting off yesterday. I took my car back to the dealership to get it fixed and they said "there's nothing wrong with it" well now I just passed my warranty and it starts shutting off on me.
View 2 RepliesI have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.
Things I have noticed:
-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM
Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.
Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.
V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....
1984 prelude...1.8l .... I have posted previously on this vehicle and I have had some "success". The car will run with the support of starting fluid but will only stay running if the engine is kept at 2500 rpms or higher. If you let off the gas, it will bog out and die. Starting it requires another shot of starting fluid and a foot on the gas.
View 14 RepliesI have a '96 Saturn SL with a 1.9 SOHC. I recently removed the engine and transmission to change the clutch. I also changed the timing chain guides, the valve cover gasket, the timing chain gasket, oil pan gasket, front and rear crank seals and motor mounts. After I put it back in, it revs to 3500-4000 rpms and is very rich (so rich it smokes). I replaced the throttle position sensor since it had a crack at the plug and to see if that was the problem. I have looked at everything again and nothing is jumping out at me.
View 10 RepliesI've got a 2008 Subaru Outback, manual transmission. When I come to a light, I may put the car in 1st gear with the clutch depressed while I wait to proceed. Then, all by itself, the accelerator revs up to about 2500 rpm for a brief moment. Then it comes down, rests for a second and then does the same thing all over again. The only thing that will make it stop is if I put the stick in neutral and release the clutch. Any way to cure this?
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 F-150 that just went under a trans rebuild. It now will NOT shift from 1st to 2nd. It revs up to 3200rpm's, shifts to 2nd then chirps the tires as it immediately slams back to 1st. Is it possibly a solenoid issue? Looking for some useful info.
View 13 RepliesThree months ago I acquired a car from my brother. It was a 2001 hyundia accent gsi. The car had sat unused for 10 months and because of this I had to put some work into it. It has a new battery, new starter and new engine belts because one snapped upon start up the first times. I have also had the oil changed.
For some reason it is reving really high. At about 100km/hr it revs at about 4000rpm. I have talked to my brother and he said it did not do this before. It is changing gears because I can hear it and watch the rpm's drop before going back up. In 3rd gear at 60 km/hr it revs at about 2100 rpm's.
My truck was intermittently shifting really hard in first and second . I drained the tranny fluid and installed a new filter and replaced the fluid, I also changed plugs and wires. Tranny fluid is at the top of the hash marks on dipstick when hot and in park. When I come to a complete stop my engine 5.3 litre v8 revs up to about 2000 rpms but the truck takes off slowly like the tranny is slipping it is worse on an incline. If I dont come to a complete stop it shifts fine and takes off with good power. After it shifts to second it shifts normally and drives fine. tranny fluid looks clean and does not smell burnt. Also when driving on the highway if I am going 45 mph and punch the gas it wont rev past 2200 rpms like it is lugging down. when i shift thru gears manually there is no slippage what so ever and when in park engine revs to 6000 rpms no problem. Also tranny is a 4l60e
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry 3.0l v6. Stalls at lights random.
Currently the car stalls at stops but this doesn't happen all the time it can go a month in between the problem occurring its very random. While sitting at a light the rpms drop and then it revs up and cycles like that for quite a while. This will also occur while cruising at a low speed while I'm just coasting the rpms will go up and down. I can compensate while stopped by power braking and keeping it at its normal idling rpm. I have no check engine lights and can't seem to determine what would be causing this issue.
I have a 1997 Saturn, and have noticed for the past couple of months that when the car is idling at a stoplight, the engine seems to rev or almost skip a little bit. The RPMs go from about 1000 down to 500 for a couple of seconds, and this will happen once every 10 seconds or so. Otherwise, it runs fine...but this is happening more and more frequently than it used to.
I had the transmission rebuilt over the summer and its still under warranty. What might be causing this?