Volkswagen :: Passenger Brake Light Works When Head Lights Off
Feb 14, 2016
The passenger side brake lights on my '99 VW do not work when the head lights are on, but do work when the head lights are off. Replacing the brake light does not fix the problem.
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Passenger side rear brake light works when lights are off, but does not when lights are on. In looking at both lights while on, the passenger side seems to burn much dimmer than the driver side.
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I have a 99 Passat Brake lights are not working, but center strip is. Replaced bulbs & fuse Could it be switch? Is center strip on a different circuit? Check engine light came on recently and then went out.
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Brake lights do not work on my 1997 vw cabrio fuse lights and break switch are good.....
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My daughter has a 2003 Elantra. The left tail light works but the brake light is out. I opened the trunk and removed the two screws for the cover and found the wire going through a rubber plug. Upon removing the plug, more wires and no bulb.
How do I get to the bulb? There appear to be three screws and bolts, one on each corner, holing the tail light in place. On the fourth corner is just a rubber-looking plug. Do I have to take the assembly out to change bulbs or am I missing something?
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Recently purchased a 2001.5 Passat, and of course got the mod itch... started with an Neuspeed ECU flash & DV, along with K&N... and now I'm in the process of suspension & exhaust... Unfortunately the past week, I was told that I had a tail light out.... Upper Rear Passenger Side Parking/Brake Light.... So I figure, hit up the parts store, grab a new bulb, and I'll be set...
Well, come to find out that it's not the bulb....
The light works when I brake, so 1/2 of the bulb is good... but the parking lights won't come on that side, but on the driver side everything is good..... even with the new bulbs..(replaced both on that side[passenger] just to be sure.)
So, just out of curiosity, I took one of the old bulbs that I thought was shot, and put it in the drivers side, and what do you know... it worked flawlessly on that side...
So, I'm led to believe I have a short... or a wiring problem somewhere... but I can't see how this could have just happened without really messing with anything... I mean, I disabled the DRL's.... but I even undid that(small piece of tape covering the B prong)... just to make sure..
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I recently noticed that both of my break lights are out but the light in my rear window works but the other two do not. I was told it was a brake light switch but I am confused on why the window light is working and not the others i feel they should all be connected???
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Both brake lights on my KIA Sportage 2006 function normally when the car lights (headlights etc) are switched off.
When the car's lights are switched on, the right brake light completely stops working, whilst the left one behaves normally and becomes brighter.
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2009 Camry LE: my rear brake light doesn't work when braking (fully lit), but it works okay for night-time mode (dimly lit).
This problem is affecting just the right side. The left side is okay for both braking (fully lit) and night-time mode (dimly lit).
Troubleshooting: my deduction led me to believe that my bulb is not burnt out and the wiring harness and fuse are okay because the bulb can be lit during night-time mode, just not when braking. I also think that my brake pedal switch is okay because my left-side brake light is fully lit when braking. I can only speculate it's a circuitry/logic board problem of some sort; I'm just not sure where I can locate the problem.
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I have kind of a strange problem with my 1992 Honda Civic. When I have my car in park with the headlights on my left brake light doesn't light up but my right does. When I put the car in gear or parked with the headlights off, the right brake light no longer lights up but the left does. What I should do? Hopefully there's a cheap fix because my car's not worth a whole lot.
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I got a new truck bed and decided it was time to finally fix my rear lights. Both blinkers work but only one brake light. It has really got me stumped. Also the rear running lights don't work and never have. When using a multi meter I get continuity between the running light positive and the common negative but only when the rear light harness is plugged in which means the short is somewhere on the way back or under the dash? Any tips about tracking this stuff down.
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Brake warning light came on. Diagnosed as bad abs module. Mechanic replaced twice. One shell sensor continues to read not turning while it is turning. Mechanic has check continuity, it's fine. Seems to have a short. He cannot find where it is and next step is ripping out much interior to track tiny wire. Will not pass state inspection with brake warning light on.
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I drive a 2000 VW Golf with 148K miles on it. One Saturday this summer my brake indicator light started lighting and beeping intermittently as I was driving. My brakes were operating fine so I did not read my owners manual until I reached my home. It indicated that I needed to have a qualified mechanic check it immediately but as it was almost 4 o'clock in the afternoon I couldn't find a mechanic in any gas station or garage. As I had a 200 mile drive to do the next day, I purchased brake fluid and carefully followed all of the directions for checking and filling my brake fluid.
However, when I took the cap off of the reservoir, the reservoir really looked fine and I was only able to add about a teaspoon max of brake fluid. However, when I tried driving the car, it seemed that the problem was solved as the brake indicator light did not come on again. Approximately 3 months later now the brake indicator light is intermittently going on again: about every other day. It goes on and then shortly after it goes off and then it doesn't come on again for a day or two.
Inasmuch as I added such a small amount of brake fluid last time I'm really not sure that the problem is actually with the fluid. I wondered if perhaps it was more of a vacuum problem or that by opening the reservoir some air escaped or something of that nature. I also wonder if possibly there's a component that's giving a false reading. At any rate, I'm a little white-haired old lady and there's a limit to what I can do on my car myself and I'm also a target whenever I go into a shop to get the most expensive diagnosis and fix. I'd like to go in to a shop with good information so that it doesn't become an expensive fishing expedition. What could be causing this?
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My high mount break light works sporadically. When I break, sometimes you can see it as bright as it can be, other times it is dim, and then sometimes no light comes on. The dealership could not even figure out how to get to the led unit.
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a 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
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I own a 04 Grand Cherokee and have recently had problems with my passenger side brake light. Now the light itself does work under normal running light conditions, but when I go to press the brake pedal it doesn't engage the bright brake light. Drivers side works fine and so do all my other lights, I replaced the bulb to no avail, and am now currently looking into replacing the bulb socket.
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we just bought a 2002 Excursion and it has a few issues. First off the door, the ajar light will not go out, however, the dome lights are not on constant, they come on briefly while the key is removed and do work with the roller switch. Also the radio doesn't shut off with the key removed until the timer relay kills all power. I have ohmed the door switches to ground all the way back to the VSM/GEM module. The door lock/unlock switches do nothing for any of the doors, the actuators don't even try to move. The auto headlights also do not function.
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I have this noise on my cars head, its like a ticking noise that is coming from the top, more towards the back of the head.
It sounds like a bad lifter sound and gets louder with acceleration.
I have did a complete head overhaul-changed valves-lifters-seals-guides- also did oil pressure test and everything seems fine.
but he noise is still there? vw jetta 3 1.8i
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I recently attempted to change out the clutch on my bug for the first time. All went well right up until I tried to start it. The starter kicks over, all the electrical works, but for some reason she's not firing. Upon removing the spark plug i found out there is no spark. The plug cables and plugs themselves are brand new, so I'm guessing that's not it.
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Last night I was driving in my 2003 jetta on the intersate at 65mph with the cruise control on. As I came into a turn I had to tap the brakes. As soon as I did the check engine light came on. The car was doing fine so I drove home from school. Today I drove the car to work which is a five minute drive, and back with no problem. I later went to grab lunch and bring it home and then I noticed the check engine light started flashing. I then felt the engine start to stutter, as if it was misfiring. We had the windshield defrost when we started to smell a rotten egg smell. Luckily we were pulling into our drive when we smelled the odor. I immediately turned off the car and got out. I couldn't smell the rotten egg smell, but I did smell burning plastic. I didn't see any smoke and could not pinpoint the cause of the smell.
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My passenger brake light (running) is out, I have the 5th brake light mod on and all 5 light up when i hit the brakes, its just dark when I am not on the brakes... Is it a fuse or the bulb blown, I've already rechecked the wiring and there was a wire loose but i put it back in and still nothing.
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