I've got a 98 beetle that has started squeaking when i hit 30 mph or so. it's quiet until 30, then i get a squeak that sounds like someone's bouncing up and down on a bed. the squeaking stops when i slow down to about 15. it doesn't squeak when the car's not moving and i rev the engine.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 98 Beetle with 58000 miles on it (for only 3400)!
When I am driving in low gear (it's an automatic), under 25 miles per hour or so, it feels like I'm driving with my brake on. For example, when I attempt to coast down a hill, I don't even accelerate! Even on the steepest of hills, I'll be slowly decelerating. This problem is most apparent after I start the car. After the car has shifted up past 25mph and back down, the problem is still there but not quite as extreme. I have found that, when coasting down a hill, if I shift my car into neutral, it feels like I suddenly let go of the brake! I will suddenly begin to accelerate in neutral where as I am decelerating in drive (when driving under 25mph).What also might be worthy of note is that it shifts -kind- of hard when going past the 25 mph mark. I've seen cards shift harder so I don't think it's a big deal but it might be related.
I'm afraid this problem is having a negative effect on my gas mileage. I'm additionally afraid that it's a problem that'll get worse and cost me lots of money.
When I approach a stop my a/c stops working and then begins working again when I drive. How can I fix this problem?
View 1 RepliesHave a 2007 jetta. A/C works well. However when highway driving the air stops blowing into cabin as if someone had shut all vents. When slow down, problem goes away. Took it to dealer and they have no clue.
View 7 RepliesI remember reading on here about why our cars squeak really loud in the drive through and when we go slow etc.. I remember some people saying its the exhaust hanger and some said they were told its because our transmissions use wet clutches or something like that. The past few days I've been driving without my music and I've noticed that is a really loud squeak and its really starting to annoy the hell out of me.
View 21 RepliesI have the most annoying high-pitched squeak/whine coming from my front left tire. For those who cant see the video, its making a high pitched, metal on metal noise... at all speeds... especially when making slight turns... my foot was not on the brake when the video was taken (coasting around the parking lot at around 10 mph)...
View 4 RepliesWe have a 2005 Toyota Corolla whose brakes have been a problem since we bought the car four years ago. Every time our mechanic changes the brakes they squeak. They do not squeak for the entire time you hold the brakes, nor do they squeak when you slam the brakes.
They squeak once when you step on the brakes to come to a slow stop. This go around with the brake replacement, our mechanic has put two sets of new pads and shoes on. The first were the ceramic kind, this next one is the Toyota brand, the highest quality. Why the brakes are still squeaking.
First question, is this dangerous? The second question is, what the heck is going on? We have been back to him so many times.
When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
View 4 RepliesI have a 1984 VW Rabbit, 4 cyl., 5 spd, that chokes off when I slow down to stop....
View 2 RepliesI know the issue of slow filling of the gas tank has been discussed extensively, but I haven't seen it discussed in the context of a cold car only.
Briefly, I have a 2010 VW Golf and if it has not been running for ~10-15 minutes, the gas pump clicks off as if it is full within 0.2-0.3 gallons. It doesn't even go into the tank and just spills out everywhere. Even in hot weather, if the car hasn't been running for a while (eg. overnight or all day at work), it needs 10-15 minutes of the engine running and then it will fill up all the way without problems. It's not an issue of the gas pump because I will just leave the car running at the gas station and 10 minutes later, I can fill up without a problem.
It's still under warranty but the dealer won't do anything because they can't reproduce it (too many red lights between the dealer and the gas station so the car is warmed up by they time they fill up gas). I haven't seen any issues online of slow fill being dependent on the car temperature.
Any specific things to ask them to check out that they could detect is damaged without being able to reproduce the problem?
I have a 03 mkIV 2.0 with just over 106k miles. I have been noticing a sqeak/creaking noise coming from the front end usually at slow speeds and going over small bumps or even bad backroads. I can simply push down on the front of the car and hear it and it sounds just terrible. I took it to my local tire shop and they said it could be my sway bay links and bushings, but they look brand new and show no signs of deterioration. My struts and shocks are fine. Could it be ball joints or control arms?
View 6 RepliesI have a 1999 ranger 4x4 , when I'm going to a slow final stop the abs kicks in ,doesn't do it every time , there's no abs warning light , took it to the ford dealer they scanned it and said it was the left front hub & bearing assembly, said the sensor wasn't reading the back of the bearing assembly. I can't understand way the abs light isn't on, is there anyway to clean that they want to replace the hub & bearing, Is a use hub & bearing replacement a good way to go? They told me I could pull the fuse and kill the abs, but I find three fuses I pull aII three and got a speed sensor check engine code. I hate to replace that hub & bearing when there's no problem with the bearing ,Is there any way to deactivate the abs, by the way it's 4 wheel abs.
1999 FORD RANGER 4X4 4.0......
I have a 2016 Touareg Lux model with just 600 miles. On multiple occasions, when accelerating out of a slow rolling stop, the car bogs down and almost dies.....until I let off the pedal and gradually ease back on it. I was nearly rear ended recently as a result of the acceleration hesitation. It's almost as if the engine shuts down and is starved of fuel.
View 1 RepliesI work in a automotive garage and am having a problem with this truck. It starts then stops instantly, I scanned it and know it is the security feature shutting it down. I have done my homework and found I have to bypass the passkey system by measuring the resistance between the yellow and orange/black wire at the tumbler. I did this and got 33.2, I got a resistor and soldered it in and the vehicle does the same thing.
History on this vehicle 1998 c1500 is it sat with a dead battery for the last year and a half, i don't know if this is relevant. Also i was told all I should do is connect the yellow wire straight to the black wire.
I drive (or more recently used to drive) a 2002 VW Jetta which has been having extreme difficulty running correctly during moist weather. Initially, upon start-up, I will note a severe problem.... it seems as if it's shaky, very shaky, and does not want to move. Upon trying to move it ignoring it's obvious signs, it does not want to take when I push in the gas....seeming to jerk or move incredibly slow. Usually feeling as if I can barely get it to move a 10 yards or so before being too nervous to push it any further. These issues seem to exist far far far more frequently in wet or moist weather (even a day or 2 after it has rained).
The car has always been well taken care of. What are the possible causes, then I might have some better luck requesting services upon calling mechanics around the area.... I am currently in college, away from home, and I absolutely cannot afford to get "nickle-and-dimed" by the dealership over every possible minor detail which could POSSIBLY need some tuning-up. It currently has just over 100,000 miles and has never had any major replacements.
I was driving on the highway in my 2001 jetta (332000 km) on the cruise control yesterday and suddenly it just started slowing down and stopped. Putting my feet in the gas did nothing . Before stopping completely the battery light came on. After won't start anymore, just making a sound like it is trying but turn in the butter. To be honest the check engine has been on for a while but we are pretty sure that is the glow plugs because it is a recurrent problem... Nothing else light up and there was no sound or smoke.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 ranger 4.0 and about a year after getting it the belt started to squeak so far if have replaced the belt, replaced the tensioner, and cleaned and wire brushed all the pulleys to remove glazing. And it still squeaks and its annoying and kinda embarrassing...
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 1.8t TIP and this problem just started happening when I slow down to stop the rpm's drop and it almost dies but it catches it self and the needle bounces a few times and it is fine after that.
Also when I start the car the rpms bounce like three or four times but it again, catches itself and its fine after that... until i want to come to a stop again.. I live in the city and its a lot of stop and go.
Also when i slow down it feels like my car slams into first gear. it shift perfectly every other time up and down, only when it goes into first it hits hard and scares me cause I don't want anything to go wrong.
I have a 1998 Honda accord with 4 cyl. engine. Recently, the engine would stop at then end of the first block after 8 hours or longer of parking. I am very light on the gas pedal. I generally release the gas and let it roll for a couple of seconds before applying the brakes at the stop sign and during the time, the engine seem to throttle a bit then stops. After a restart and applying gas, it seem fine. What can be wrong with it?
View 6 RepliesI was driving towards the freeway, I wasn't even on the freeway, I was taking back roads, and I turn on the AC, and the car turns off. So I coast to a stop, turn it back on drive a bit, car shuts off, I figured out it was the AC, drive back with the AC turned off, get back home show my dad what happened, car shuts off when tested. We test the AC a few times more, then after a while car just keeps running even with the AC on, but when on AC mode, it won't blow cold air. But the car no longer stalls with the AC turned on.
I recently replaced the ignition switch in my 1998 Jetta.
Got a 1996 Volkswagen Cabrio with around 125k miles. Recently the check engine light came on. Had the code pulled (P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response) and reset but it came back on shortly thereafter. I've also noticed that the car idles strangely, generally after it has warmed up a little bit. Basically it will idle rough and sound as though it might choke out but if you give it a little gas it goes back to a normal, even idle.
Right now it's getting around 20+ MPG average which seems a little low but I only purchased it 3 months ago so I don't have much to compare it against. One other thing I've noticed is that the plastic molding around where the gas nozzle goes in is cracked which makes it difficult to fill it up since it doesn't make a good seal unless you position the gas nozzle just right.
Any thoughts on whether either of these problems might be related to the weird idle? How hard is it to change the front 02 sensor?