Volkswagen - Jetta :: 2006 - Hard To Start Mostly After Pumping Gas?
Sep 25, 2016
I have a 2006 vw Jetta and it runs great. It started out just when I would get gas the car wouldn't start I would have to turn the key and put my foot on the gas for it to start (starts pretty much the first time I do this) but recently it has done this three random times when I didn't fill up. Also my check engine light is on. What this problem could be?
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My 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
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So I haven't driven my 2003 Jetta in about a week and a half. Today when I started it it struggled to start, and then at a stop light while my foot was on the brake it was jumping/stuttering. it continued when I moved at 5 mph, but did not happen while driving at higher speeds (15 mph) and went away when j shifted from drive to park. I got on the highway and drove for 15 minutes with no issues, and now the problem is gone. Is this a sign of a failing part?
The spark plugs and wires were replaced 6 months ago. I had them changed because the car has always had a small intermittent rough idle that would sometimes happen when stopped and at low parking lot speeds, but it's never been so noticeable. it was really lunging this time
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Symptoms:
1. Code P0455-Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak).
2. During first few miles of driving, I hear a tick-tick-tick-thump sound coming from the rear of the car that is not related to tires/engine/speed/etc. The thump sound is pretty loud. The tick-tick-tick sounds like some type of piston-actuated pump. After >10 miles or so of driving, these sounds stop.
3. After putting gas in tank, car will not start without pumping gas pedal.
4. When removing gas cap, there is no 'rush of air' sound.
All of this started two weeks ago with no previous issues.
I know that the gas cap is one of the top items for this code but the seal on the cap looks very good. In addition, the local Volkswagen parts department stated that they've never ordered one before for replacement. I've heard of garages doing 'smoke tests' on the evap system-what the heck is that? How easy is it to find all of the little hardware that might be causing these issues
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I recently bought a 2006 Jetta with 31,000 from a used imported cars salesman. I've had it for 5 or 6 months and have put on 4,000 miles since I've gotten it. Sometimes it won't start for 2 or 3 days, it wil rumble the engine for 5 to 10 seconds then shut off. Then it will randomly start working fine for a day or two, and repeat itself.
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My 2004 VW jetta has 139k on it. Whenever I come to a hard-ish stop or almost-stop, the transmission downshifts to 1st and won't get out of it unless i play with the tiptronic mode selector and coax it to upshift. it shifts well and works well in gingerly driving other than in this circumstance. i took it to a shop and they say (as they always do) it needs a new tranny. I'm wondering out loud if there is some kind of mounting instability issue that could explain this. This is definitely a case of needing a new transmission. I have read a bunch about solenoids being the culprit in general shifting problems, but not this exact set of symptoms and circumstances.
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Long time listener first time poster. My wife has a 2009 Vw jetta 2.5 with a manual transmission that is very hard to shift. It has 80,000 on it and has had the clutch replaced once. She told me that she never had any problems shifting until she let it sit for two weeks while she went to cape cod. I have driven it myself and can confirm that there is an issue. Sometimes it just will not go into gear. No grinding noise at all and very very stiff when moving the stick shift laterally from first to fifth. Not actually shifting from 1-5 just moving the stick across the range it feels like cement. I have already changed the transmission fluid and used the Vw oem oil. I also removed the shift boot and lubed all the moving parts with a high quality grease. Tomorrow I am going to bleed the clutch slave and have a good look at the shift linkage. Is their something I am missing?
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I went on vacation for a week and left my car at my parents house. I came back and now it has become extremely difficult to shift between gears. It's nearly impossible to get the car into reverse, extremely difficult to get it into first, makes a thud when pulling it out of first, is semi difficult to get into 2nd, but only a mild nuisance to get into 3rd through 6th.
For more information, the car is a 2012 Volkswagen GLI with just shy of 40,000 miles. The car ran just fine before I went on vacation and the car was not moved while I was on vacation. I did notice that a little ticking kind of sound when I had the car in neutral with no clutch. So the throw out bearing was starting to wear, but it was a very slight. But I haven't had any other problems.
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a 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
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Yesterday, i bumped into the curb as I got home, and today when I went to work the car is pulling very hard to the right, and makes a squeeling sound when I get up to speed. The ball joint looks bad, but can that cause this problem?
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I have a 1996 VW Jetta GL 4 cyl. 2.0L. When the temp. start to warm up the car won't start. I don't know if its the temp. outside, or in the cabin of the car. all the dash lights turn on, and accessories turn on. sometimes I hear a clicking noise, which I think is the sound of electricity going to the starter. I have replaced the starter, alternator, & battery. I had a family friend mechanic look at it for about 3 hrs. and he couldn't figure it out. I have a suspicion that it might be the ignition switch faulting out, but how would I know for sure with out taring apart the steering column?
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I own a 2006 VW Jetta 2.5 (Automatic transmission) with 68k miles. I purchased the car new in Nov '06. Beginning in August '10, the car began stalling while in motion. As a result, I lose power brakes & power steering. The car has been in for repairs on 4 separate occasions. Currently, they have had the car for 3 consecutive weeks. They claim they cannot find a problem and have advised me to return to the dealership to pick up my car. I am terrified to drive this car. A VW mechanic has advised me that should the car stall on the highway again (as it has in the past) I may not be so lucky as I was previously (I was going uphill) and likely lack the body weight to apply enough pressure to the brakes to stop the vehicle while maintaining control.
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Twice now, my 2006 VW Jetta has gone into "limp mode"--RPMs rev like mad but I get very little power, won't go into overdrive. Had to get it home both times by using the Tiptronic. The first time it happened, we were driving through The Poconos on a nice day. Shut the car off & restarted it with no problem. The 2nd time was during an intensely hot day & torrential rainstorm in MD. The car sat for 2 days before going back to normal. Is this normal behavior for a VW? And what makes it go into limp mode? I can understand it happening during the rainstorm but on a nice day of normal driving?
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2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
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I've got a 2002 Jetta TDI that's been playing stump the mechanic for the past two weeks. I've had about $800 worth of work (most of which had error codes and were necessary), but given that the next suggestion is to replace the fuel pump at a cost of ~$2k, I figured it was time to get some additional opinions.
When the car is completely cold, the engine typically turns over a few times before starting up. Sometimes a few turns into seven or eight, but I've never had it not start. The problem comes when I've driven it somewhere (like to the grocery store, yoga class, or to get gas, to name a few) and try to restart it after my task is done. The warmer the engine, the lower the chance it will start. In it's most extreme, the car will not start at all, and I have had it stall out on me at stoplights if I do manage to get it started.
The car has had a history of intermittent hard starts in the four years I've had it, but nothing at all like this.
In the past two weeks, my mechanic has replaced the coolant temperature sensor, thermostat and seal ring, serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt, power supply relay, fuel pressure regulator and seal rings and the crank sensor. They've also been able to see that something is off about the fuel pump since they can see air bubbles in the fuel line, but thought I could push the car for a while without having to replace the pump.
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1995 vw Jetta 110K miles.. My car has a hard time starting in the mornings or when it sits idly for a while (when I park overnight) . On any bright and sunny day, it's like the car is brand new - starts with no problems at all. Tried several mechanics and none of them have been able to diagnose the problem. To make it simple, cold outside - car will not start, warm/hot outside car will start.
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I have a 2008 Volkswagen Jetta, which usually runs well. About a month ago the check engine light came on. I didn't notice any other problems until I went to fill up the car with gas and tried to start the car afterward and it took multiple tries to get the car started. I took it into the garage and they did a diagnostic, and said the leak detection pump needed to be replaced. So they replaced that, and the check engine light went away and I thought all was well. However, I took it to the gas station yesterday and had the same problem trying to start the car after filling up. What could this be? The leak detection pump ran me $500 so I hope I didn't have it replaced for no good reason!
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I have a 2006 vw jetta with about 145k miles on it. When I had taken it for oil change, I was told that there is an oil leak around the oil filter bracket and was given a quote of about 1100. Here is my confusion about. There are no oil spots under the car where I park it, never seen a drop of oil under the car. So where actually is this leak happening? How serious is it? The car doesn't burn a lot of oil either, the oil level doesn't go down drastically and don't have to add oil till oil changes.
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Lately, when I make a slight turn at fast speeds (i.e. freeway exit ramp), my car makes a sound like the anti-lock brakes are kicking in without me even touching the brakes. This doesn't happen all the time and can happen on the smoothest/driest of surfaces. More confirmation of ABS kicking in is the fact that the car slows down when I hear the noise.
I took the car to the dealership to investigate/fix this noise. The dealership said that the cause was uneven tread wear on the two front wheels (5/32 difference). This sounds like bologna to me. What do you think?
P.S. the car is a 2006 VW Jetta 2.0T
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Our 2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI, with 227,000 miles, recently started to fog up inside everytime we drive it. The dealership cleaned the sunroof drains thinking that was likely the cause (although, the car is always garage parked). That did not resolve the issue. We have to have the defrost on full blast to be able to see out the windows, and still we need to roll back windows down to wipe condensation to see out of them when making a turn.
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I started this string over a year ago (see below). My car continues to suffer the same problem. It now has 62,000 miles on it. I finally decided to take it to the dealership seeing as my local mechanic and 2 VW specialists could not figure out what is wrong - 2 new sets of coils, 2 news sets of spark plugs, and several expensive diagnostic tests that reveal nothing later. The dealership also has no clear idea what is wrong with the car and VW itself has not been useful either (rather useless really). No service bulletins have been posted for my car. I have tried several additives (Techron, Sea Foam) but that did not yield any results. The one thing I have noticed is that the misfiring ceases to occur when the gas tank is a little less than half full but begins to occur again as the gas gauge reaches the refill zone. It misfires like crazy when the tank is full. I am thinking of replacing the wiring harness for the fuel injectors but this is yet another best guess as to what might be wrong with the car.
I have a 2006 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission and 35,000 miles. The engine randomly misfires causing it to stutter or stammer. The check engine light is on and has been for several weeks. Occasionally the check engine light flashes. I took it to a local mechanic who ran a series of diagnostic tests (no vacuum leaks) and they recommended having all the ignition coils replaced for all 4 cylinders. They also replaced the fuel filter. I did so but the problem soon returned to which they referred me to the dealer. I decided to take it to a VW specialist in town and they replaced the spark plugs for all 4 cylinders. They noticed that some of the plugs were black with a buildup and some were clean.
Codes listed:
P0202 - Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 2
P0300 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Random
P0302 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Cylinder 2
P0304 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Cylinder 4
P0301 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Cylinder 1
P0201 - Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 1
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