I recently bought a 1999 VW Lupo (essentially a two door Golf) with 30000 miles on it. My mechanic suspects it sat idle for a long time. Recently the check engine light went on, warning of a faulty idle regulator. What effect would you expect to see as a result ?
View 7 RepliesIts been a while as my phaeton was running fine until now. My A/C usually works fine but after few mins it blows warm air. if I turn off the car and start back in 2 mins then the A/C blows cold air again. I did the scan and it showed me "00445 - Loss of Refrigerant" so I took it the dealer for a refill. Technician checked the refrigerant pressure and it was full. I verified fuse 66 is fine. It turns out that the compressor shutdown is due to faulty regulator Valve N280. Some days the cold air is fine with out any issues but some days the problem is intermittent. so I believe I don't need to change the compressor or refill the gas. VW sells the complete compressor which includes the regulator valve. Where can I buy the regulator valve N280 separately for the correct compressor model and what is the type of compressor model in our phaeton ?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 VW Jetta with 92K miles and just a couple of days ago my check engine late came on and when i took to an auto store to check the code, it came as P0332, Knock sensor 2 in bank 2 is faulty. Three things have happened all around the same time and I am not sure if they are related and are just coincidence.1.Check engine light came on.2. I have noticed after that, my car RPM has dropped, idles at about 600-700RPM and when trying to accelerate, it tops at 3000 RPM and feels like the motor cuts off at that point and I have to step off the gas and the car runs ok again, but cant go over 3000.
Had trouble getting on the interstate due to this and thought the car was going to stall, but it didn't. just had to back off the gas and let it run, It did go up to the speed that I wanted, but seems like it wont go past the 3000 RPM point.3. My fuel gauge, drops to empty when it reaches the half way mark on the meter. It stays at the correct level when I start and keep the car in idle, but when I start moving, it drops to empty. When I fill up the tank, it goes all the way to F, and after the car goes the usually of about 190-210 miles, when It reaches the half full level, the meter drops to zero, so have been using my trip odometer to drive after that.
I own a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GL Model.
When in Idle the car starts to make a ticking noise and tends to get louder the longer it sits. On top of this the idle does seem louder than when I first got the car like a constant purring noise if that makes sense. I am only able to hear the ticking while in idle, but the purring noise is continuous even while driving. I'm not sure what the problem could be but have the necessary funds to make some repairs on my car though not tons.
My car currently has approximately 128,500 miles on the engine. I'd like to keep this car running for a long time.
Just changed the fuel pressure regulator on 1993 volvo 850 (non turbo), now the idle goes up and down then stalls.
Also changed IAC, but with a used one from a previously working car.
Surging at idle computer check ( at Oreilys) says TPS is faulty. Also using water replaced water pump still leaking. We cannot see any obvious leaks.
View 2 RepliesI own a 1999 VW Golf with 136+ thousand miles. We drive it mostly on surface streets and it runs fine. However, this past holiday we hopped on the expressway and as soon as we got above 55mph it started to stutter. It felt almost as if the spark plugs were misfiring. I've since given the spark plugs a once over and they look fine but I'm due for a tune up soon anyway and i intend to replace them. I can't feeling though that if the plugs are the problem, the car would be stuttering regardless of speed.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 VW Golf Wolsburg that I bought used a few years ago. I can't figure out what else I need to do to keep it running. I have done the following: oil changes, replaced spark plugs and wires, replaced crank shaft position sensor, replaced muffler, replaced distributor cap, ignition rotor, made repairs to coolant flange, and replaced the fuel pump wire conections. It has stalled out on me while driving and then won't start, leaving me stranded and having to be towed. Sometimes I come back to it and its just fine, and then does it again at a later time. Usually the CEL code is P0304/P0341. After another trip to the mechanic the CEL came on again with P0341.Now what?
View 4 RepliesI took my fuel pressure regulator off hoping it would get to my green top coolant temp sensor. It doesn't Now when I put it back on its leaking? I didn't depressurize the fuel line first. Can this be the cause? If so do I just open the gas cap, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and then re-insert the fuel pressure regulator? or do I need to get new O-rings for the regulator?
View 10 Repliesi have a 99 passat and one of my windows doesn't go down ( drivers side in the back). i can hear it making a sound like it wantes to go down but the window doesn't budge. could it be the regulator??
View 2 RepliesWhere is the fuel pressure regulator on a 2005 Jetta 2.0 BEV. It's nowhere on the fuel rail.
View 1 RepliesI've been having this code come up for a couple weeks now off and on. Currently I am stage 2 Giac. I have the autotech HPFP upgrade and was installed a couple months ago. Recently It threw the code and lasted for a couple days then went away. I notice that if i get on it pretty hard for a while the code will come back, im guessing due to lack of fuel. I pulled the fuel pump and checked the cam follower and it looks almost good as new still. Thought it would be the sensor but doesn't seem like it as the CEL turns off after a while of not getting on it.
View 10 RepliesJust did the trans mount in my car hooked it all back up and "esc faulty traction control" came on in the dash MFI display, esc & steering wheel(airbag?) light in the dash. I scanned it no codes. Is it something that goes off on its own or do I have to disconnect the batt again and some sort of cycle procedure?
View 1 RepliesHaving issues with some or all of the coil packs going bad? Because it looks like all 6 coil packs on my R32 went bad...
Brief history, my car stopped turning on about a month ago, it was working just fine when one day when going to lunch it stopped wanting to turn on, I had to crank it about 3 or 4 times and it turned on, I went to lunch then got back but when I left for the day (at work) I once again didn't want to turn on and that's about it. I had to tow it home and a couple of friends and I began trying to figure out why we tested the fuel system and electrical. We could get no little to no spark on all 6 coil packs. Ran vag com and nothing would come up, I tested the Crank position sensor and it tested fine but broke the connector so I replaced it with a new CPS. Still, would not start.
So after a couple of days, we decided to try 6 known good coil packs and it fired right up. So yeah I've never heard of all six coil packs going bad at the same time, so what could cause that ? btw soon after the car started, about the 3rd time turning it off and on the starter decided to stop working, I'm thinking it was because of all the times I tried to start it, it was allotted. : thumb down
Last month, I started my gti up and a "Start System Faulty" code appeared. The car started normal and drove perfectly fine.
I immediately took it in to the dealership and they could not diagnose the problem or turn off the damn warning! They released my car and said to come back in a few weeks.
So, two days later, the warning disappeared and I thought it was just an electrical glitch.
Fast-forward to last week, the warning light came back on and took it in again. I suggested that they take a look at the ignition switch and sure enough, they fixed it for me over the weekend by installing a new ignition switch and the problem is gone.
My 1999 6.8 has developed a miss at low rpm lugging, so I checked on my code reader and it says the Fuel Volume Regulator Control has open circuit.
Well, I can't find anything on these forums or in my shop manual on a fuel volume regulator. Is my reader just using the wrong name?
1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
I have been having the dredded EPC light coming on and according to the vag scan its the throotle body. What I need to know is if one off a 2003 2.0 jetta will work on my 2004 2.0 jetta. The number on the side of mine 06A 133 062s is not the same number on the 03. I was told that they must match to work properly.
View 2 RepliesMy scanner reads P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Open. My truck shuts down without warning, runs great otherwise. I've changed 2 grey CPS units and now have the Black IH one installed. What the Fuel Volume Reg.is? Is it the IPR on the HPOP?F250SD 7.3 225,000 miles.
View 10 RepliesEvery time I start my Golf there is a beep, the EPC light and ABS light come on and stay on, and the brake warning light starts flashing and continues to flash.
I have had the fault codes read and it came up with the following:
0414 Control unit improperly coded Faulty
0606 Yaw rate sensor Circuit defective.
What these faults actually mean and what might cause them? I'm quite keen to resolve the issue as anything brakes related makes me nervous, plus I do drive the car hard and use the 4Motion system, which I believe utilises the ABS system?
Probably worth mentioning that the car is fitted with a Series 1 Blue Haldex controller, in case that makes any difference?
I have a mystery on my hands and am at a complete loss. I have a 1969 Volkswagen Beetle that will not hold an idle. It will start up just fine and as long as you have your foot on the gas, it will stay alive. As soon as you let off the car sputters and dies. Another symptom is that the is a miss in the engine, not sure if the two are related or need to time it and then check on the idle. Here is what I have done in an attempt to fix the issue:
I have been able to adjust the idle to get it to stay alive for about 30 seconds longer, but no matter ho much I adjust it still struggles and dies. Idles very rough no matter what.
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Replaced the condenser and points (adjusted the points properly etc.)
Replaced and gapped the spark plugs
Replaced the idle cutoff solenoid
Adjusted the automatic choke
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Some have suggested a vacuum leak, and i know i have to put some sort of solution on the vacuum connections, but since I am relatively new to the world of VW beetles I am not quite sure where those are and what to put on and what to do if there is a leak.