I had a small chirp noise in my Van when it shifts into 4th gear. Took it into United transmissions for a total rebuild. First rebuild had the same noise so they did it again and it came back with the same noise.at that point they said they don't know what it is. I can find no one in this state that will rebuild the Tranny.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 VW Eurovan that had it's transmission rebuilt in 2011. In 2012, we were going up a steep mountain road approx. 25 mph and the van downshifted into first gear. We tried everything from speeding up to pulling over and letting it cool down to turning the engine off and on. It would only upshift into the correct gear when we reached the crest of the hill and started going downhill. As I live in San Diego, there are no hills high enough to reproduce this with city driving and so it never happened again until we went back to the same place this year and at almost the exact same spot on the road. We took a trip later in the year to Oregon where we encountered many uphill grades and each time we hit a steep part and going around 20-30 mph, the van would downshift again either into first or second gear, and each time upshifting when we started going downhill.
At the end of this last trip, a new whining noise appeared and is present everyday we drive and gets louder and higher pitched the faster we go. We have taken the van numerous times to the dealership who says there are no engine codes to suggest a problem and their last assessment was the downshifting may be an overheating problem and the whining noise was definitely from the transmission indicating a bearing problem and they suggested getting the transmission rebuilt again. The transmission shop states that the transmission is fine by the fact that the fluid is in good shape, the transmission is basically "dumb" and only does what the computer tells it to and therefore it is a computer problem and the whining noise, although new, is just a normal noise that all transmissions make. Each place points me in the direction of the other but neither has solved my problem.
i have a 94 vw passat vr6 that wont shift. when you start off in drive it takes a second for it to start to move. if you shift it manually from first on up it shifts okay but sometimes it slips in between 2nd and 3rd. the only time the car will shift is after driving it a few miles at about 65-70 it will shift itself into second gear and not come out you have to shut the car off and wait a few minutes to "reset" itself. after driving it on the highway it kicked itself into second gear, i pulled over and the fan was on and it looked as if there was some fluid on top of the transmission but cant recall if it had been there earlier. i checked the ATF and there was no shortage of fluid. could the fan be on due to the transmission over heating? what could be the cause of it not shifting?
View 2 RepliesThis is the first car I've ever owned with an automatic transmission. When the car is stopped and in gear, I can feel a slight vibration and hear some accompanying noise. Shifting to neutral gets rid of the noise and vibration. Is this normal? Car has 9500 miles.
View 2 Replies2003 VW Eurovan VR-6 died while driving as if the key was turned off. The van was running great before this episode. Now, van will start, but die after about 4 secs. Changed fuel pump relay, engine control module relay, and will run with stater fluid sprayed in throttle body. Fuel pump or perhaps immobilizer?
View 4 RepliesWhat is making my auto transmission shift harshly on my 1998 Mercury Sable? I changed its fluid but it didn't work.
View 1 RepliesOur check engine light came on earlier this summer. A local mechanic who supposedly specializes in German autos said there was a vapor lock leak in the fuel system. He replace our gas cap and reset the warning light. A few weeks later the light came back on. This time he replaced fuel pump and reset the warning light. This created a new problem: when you turn on the ignition it now takes 20-30 seconds before the car ignites/starts. The engine turns over but takes that long to start. If you turn the ignition on and then quickly turn if off and then on again it starts immediately.
A few weeks went by and the check engine light came on again. I took it to a new mechanic. He said the fuel pump appeared to be fine and replaced a fuel line sensor. This didn't work at all as far as I can tell.
Now the check engine light is back on and we still have the prolonged starting problem. Now that the temps are cold the starting issue does seem a little better.
My wife's 2004 V6 Camry is not happy. As you accelerate from a stop, the automatic transmission will go from first gear to second, and then sometimes just drop spontaneously into neutral. Because you are in the process of accelerating, the engine RPMs increase until you take your foot of the pedal. In the short trip to the dealership for testing, the problem seemed to reset itself when the car was fully stopped. Other times it just reengaged with the transmission on its own without stopping.
Each time the transmission disengages, another strange thing happens--the instrument panel goes bonkers. The speedometer needle drops to zero, but the tach keeps working. The ABS, check engine, and brake lights turn on.
The dealership had the car for several days and has only been able to scan codes indicating the ABS system and the rear wheel speed sensors. I'm skeptical--especially since the repair estimate is nearly $4,000! I'm taking the car to an independent shop tomorrow for a second opinion.
I can follow up with more details from the dealership's diagnostic report, but for now, all I can say is that the car has almost 100,000 miles and we haven't had a bit of trouble with it until now. I replaced the transmission fluid about 10,000 miles ago.
I have a 1995 jeep Cherokee country that has 130k miles. I have notice that when I shift from park to drive, park to reverse, drive to reverse or vice versa It makes this thud noise after placing it in gear. Is this a sign that the transmission is about to go out ? What action should I take? By the way its a automatic transmission
View 1 RepliesI have a 95 f150 5.0 with a 4r70w Trans. What to check now no overdrive Trans shifts and drives great but no od the od off light on shifter is lit up and just never goes into overdrive solenoids have been replaced and new shift lever and button where do I go from here is not throwing any codes...
View 7 RepliesI recently bought a 2002 Mercury Cougar with an automatic transmission. I really like it, but it seems to have some trouble shifting. If I really "punch it" it revs all the way up to about 6200 rpm before it shifts. I think this is high, but the red-zone isn't until 8000.If I don't "punch it" and I accelerate slowly it still goes up to about 4300 rpm. I talked to many of my friends and mechanics that I know and they have a lot to say (as do I). One thing they all talked about was my transmission. They told me to check my tranny fluid and make sure that it is full, not discolored, and didn't smell burnt. I did all this and everything seems okay.
Also, someone I know who is very knowledgeable about mechanical issues looked at it and he said that it doesn't smell burnt, it's a perfect color and is filled correctly. Another thing they brought up is that the car might be governed because it tops out at about 82 mph (I know that's way too fast, but I have to know what she's got.) It also only has 115,000 miles and seems very well cared for, so I think it should still have plenty of life left in it. One of the mechanics said something about a manual linkage sensor. (Mlt sensor). He said that when they steam cleaned my engine that it might have gotten wet and then when the pulled the car outside it might have froze and cracked, causing my troubles. Also, they mentioned about how if you disconnect the battery on a Ford vehicle that it will reset the computer and usually takes 1,000 miles or so for the computer to run through all the codes and realize if there is anything wrong. I do have a brand new battery and was just replaced prior to me purchasing it. My check engine light is not on and it seems to purr perfectly all the time.
My boss has a computer that we hooked up and let it run the codes and see if it would tell us anything, but it's a small personal one and he said the Ford dealers computer can dig deeper and possibly find the problem. His little hand-held computer didn't find any problems. I don't want to have to bring it to the Ford dealer and have them fix it before I know what's actually wrong so that I can save them time, and me money. I don't know if this is a problem and should be fixed.
My 1995 1.8L Corolla wagon (230K original) automatic transmission will shift to neutral while I am driving. It will do this at any speed. It lasts for one to five seconds. Otherwise it runs and shifts perfectly . It does it on level or graded roads, maybe one to five times per week. I no longer feel confident to drive it. At first I would be driving along and the speedometer would go to zero. This would last for one to three miles. Then, after this, the speedometer would go to zero and the overdrive light would go on/off, and the transmission would shift back and forth. I changed the VSS but it did not fix the problem. Now it does the same again, only the transmission shifts to neutral.(The lever stays in Drive) This lasts for one to five seconds. Moving the shift lever during this time has no effect.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 VW Eurovan, 2.8L V6 Winnebago Vista 21B, 130k miles, my check engine light is on but having a hard time trying to figure out what's causing it and what direction to head without spending a fortune. It started while traveling across country two years ago, several days into the trip, after driving several hours at freeway speeds on a cool rainy day, I stopped for gas and when I turned it back on it sputtered and coughed and ran REALLY rough, I slowly moved the vehicle out of the way, about 50 ft, turned it off and when I turned it back on it was fine, except the check engine light came on. I took it into VW and they ran the test... the codes were: P0118 Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 3 Cylinder Misfires P0305, P0300, P0303 P1151 Bank 1, mixture adaptation, range 1, Lean limit not reached, static
They said it wasn't going to destroy the vehicle, to continue on my trip and I'd need to do some sleuthing to find the culprit. The light came on and off throughout the trip but didn't have the sputtering again ( although I didn't push it as hard when driving it either, kept it around 65 - 70).Got back to Montana and a local shop replaced the ignition coil. That didn't fix the check engine light, which is on continuously now (that's been 2 years with mild use of about 8k miles).
Until now, it hasn't sputtered again so I didn't really worry about it, but it happened in Oregon last week when it was again cool and rainy, I'd been driving hwy speeds for a few hours, I stopped for gas and when I restarted it sputtered, coughed and rumbled like it did 2 years ago. I turned it off for 30 secs, restarted and it was fine.In talking this over with a variety of folk, we're thinking the issue could be a fuel filter, fuel pump, coolant sensor or catalytic converter sensor... I have a fuel pressure test scheduled in a couple of weeks.
While driving, a rapid clicking sound randomly comes from under and to the left of the steering wheel and the van concurrently has stuttered power. It still drives but is rapidly getting worse with frequency and we are on a road trip on the Oregon Coast with young kids and limited local mechanics. It seems like something as simple as a loose connection but before digging in to check electrical connections .....
View 5 RepliesI have a 95 f350 with a 460 motor and a e4od trans with 90,000 miles. My speedometer,odometer quit working and then transmission shifts hard in all gears. I've checked the fuses and all are good. I've even replaced the speed sensor but still have the same problems and don't know were to look next. Where or what to check?
View 1 RepliesWhen the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
View 14 RepliesIs there an easy way to do this...???
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai Sonata (automatic transmission) that has recently been "jumping" when the car shifts between 2nd and 3rd. This happens only after the engine is "warm", and does not happen in any other gears or when I downshift.
View 1 RepliesThere is only one thing I don't like about our new SF. The transmission shifts from 4th to 5th gear at approximately 60 km/hr (36 mph +/-) and the rpm's drop to 1500 rpm. Now, when I want to speed up a tad (which is a frequent occurrence when driving around town), there is a pronounced hesitation before it drops back into 4th gear and accelerates.
In 5th gear at 1500 revs, I find that the engine is 'lugging' a bit. Yesterday, I started to compensate for this by changing to manual shifting as soon as the trannie shifted into 4th gear and leaving it there when I was traveling in that 60 kph speed area. For me, this is MUCH better and I quite like doing some of the shifting any way since I spent so many years driving manual transmission equipped cars.
How have others found the car to be when driving around town? Other than that, I really enjoy this car. Easily the most comfortable seats of any car I've ever owned --- their design provides terrific lumbar support and the new cloth material has a great 'feel' to it.
Just experienced something new in my less than a week old 2.0T. This morning was the coldest day since buying it (-15c). I had the block heater plugged in and it started up well. Let the engine run for my usual 30-40 seconds before putting it into gear. Reversed well, but was a bit slow shifting after putting it into 1st.
For the first 5 minutes or so of the drive, the shift were pretty rough. Mostly the shift between 1st and 2nd gear. Things got better after that and were fine for the rest of my trip and also an hour later when I came home.
Is this just a case of a very cold transmission and fluid, or is it something else? I've never owned a car that had such rough shifting in cold weather. Sluggish shifts yes, but not violent like these were.
Have a 2002 avalanche Z71. Transmission was rebuilt 33k ago. It currently shifts a little hard going from 1 to 2nd. Real problem shows up between 40 mph and 50 mph. It suddenly shifts into overdrive which drops the engine rpm waaay down and starts lugging the engine.
Took it back to the guys who did the rebuild. They drove it around and noticed that the computer reported no codes. They claimed it was the TPS and said to replace it. I did. Problem is still there.
Took it to a highly trusted mechanic. They said they think the valve body needs replacing but they don't do transmissions. The guy they recommend drove it around and he thinks it is the torque converter.
I am wondering what causes the computer to decide when it is time to shift into overdrive and I am wondering if there is some sensor that has gone whacko and needs to be replaced instead of starting to tear the transmission apart.