Volkswagen - Corrado :: 1996 VR6 Won't Stay Running Or Start Now
May 7, 2013
I have a 95 VW Corrado VR6. The indications are that the vehicle will turn over and increase RPM when ignition is turned over. When RPM goes down to idle it continues to zero and dies. If I press the accelerator while starting the car the same thing happens. This originally happened back in October and I did not get it fix or looked at until early April. The shop I took it to replaced the battery and it started right up. I then drove it off and on for about 3 weeks (low speed/no freeway and no more than 1 hour in duration) and then it started doing the exact same thing. That day I had driven home from work which is only about 3 miles. Several hours later I needed to move the car and it started and I moved it 40 feet or so. I then decided I didn't like my parking job and tried to start the car again and it would not start. I am thinking a faulty alternator but not sure if it would fail like this.
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Its a 1996 vw gti 2.0 it wont stay running. Changed the spark plugs, air filter, distributor cap. itll crank but wont start. if i give it gas it will start. but you have to stay on the gas to keep it running. when you let off the gas, it dies right away. Could it be the mass air flow sensor?
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My 96 cherokee 4.o is having trouble. the motor is cranking but will not stay running unless i am pouring gas directly into the butterfly valve. it runs great while i am pouring gas into it, but it sputters out and dies once i stop. i checked to pressure in the fuel rail and gas will come out of the valve however the pressure gauge doesn't have any response. it feels like the fuel pump.
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I own a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8, and there has been an ongoing problem with it stalling. The check engine light is on and it reads codes about idle control sensor and 02 sensor. I spent a lot of money having both replaced, along with an processor. I had to bring my Jeep to a dealership so they could "marry" the processor to the car. The check engine light went out for about a day, then once the computer reset, light went back on. The codes still read bad O2 and idle sensor despite them being replaced.
The problem is when the car starts cold I have to keep my foot on the gas for a couple minutes or it will stall out. Once it has warmed up the car runs good. I turned the idle pin on the front of the throttle body to try to keep from having to put my foot on the gas but it still stalls. It seems like it is working better in the cold weather. My mechanic says that I may have turned the idle too far trying to fix it and that is why it is stalling.
I just want my car to run without having to warm it up every time. It wastes time and a lot of gas. Could it be something other then what I've already replaced? I don't want to keep replacing the same things and not have it fix the problem.
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I have a 1996 VW Jetta GL 4 cyl. 2.0L. When the temp. start to warm up the car won't start. I don't know if its the temp. outside, or in the cabin of the car. all the dash lights turn on, and accessories turn on. sometimes I hear a clicking noise, which I think is the sound of electricity going to the starter. I have replaced the starter, alternator, & battery. I had a family friend mechanic look at it for about 3 hrs. and he couldn't figure it out. I have a suspicion that it might be the ignition switch faulting out, but how would I know for sure with out taring apart the steering column?
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My 05 f-150 Supercrew 5.4l, will start for a second and then die. I can sometimes feather it and rev it up, but it dies as soon as you let off. I changed the fuel filter and while we had the lines off we turned the key on and it pumped fuel but only for a few seconds. Shouldn't the pump run constantly with an open line?
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'99 K1500, 5.7L, 130K miles, regularly serviced and well maintained, no garage so sits out in weather. About 8 months ago we started to experience no starts after rains, engine would fire off, but not stay running, security light NEVER came on. Took to regular mechanic and had fuel pump replaced (needed it anyway), wiring "repaired" behind dash. No problems till last month, then same started again. Sometimes will start after 5-6 tries, other times will not start till 10-12 hours AFTER rain stops.
Security light came on ONCE while driving for 5 minutes, then went out. TSB's indicate possible corrosion in the Passlock sensor voltage, underhood or under body connections, may be reason. Where these are as I would prefer to check them myself to see if simple solution before pay mechanic to find the same. Since did not reoccur for a while after fuel pump replaced, are there connections that would have to be pulled to replace tank that may now be not sealing again with time? Any resource for wiring diagrams for Passlock path?
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I had a Viper 5701 installed and it only stays on for 20 seconds then shuts down as if I was pressing the brake pedal. What is the work around? The hand held computer says the alarm is set for 12 minutes.
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What's up power stroke fam. I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 7.3 liter this is what happen, was leaving the job site the truck started just fine ran for about 3 city blocks stopped at a stop sign and it started to run ruff like it was out of fuel but had a half tank then poof it shut off. After towing the truck home and trying to start it I could hear a relay clicking very sporadic the service engine light came on then when off and the truck started and the exact same thing happened started running ruff and shut off. Where should I start other than taking it to the shop?
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I have a 96 buick regal thats been giving me problems for over a year now. it from time to time acted like it was out of gas even though it might have a half a tank. Turns over fine but won't start after it sits for a couple of days then it starts fine. Last summer my son replaced the fuel pump after doing a pressure test and getting a low reading. No more problems until jan then it started doing it again. Well about 3 months ago it wouldn't start so I had my wife turn the key on and I stuck my ear in the fuel fill tube and I could not hear the fuel pump.
I checked the fuel pump relay by putting my finger on top of it and I can feel it click when the key is turned on. Also the air relay next to it is the same so I switched them no change so I replaced the fuel pump again and also the sending unit so every thing in the tank is new. Car still won't start can't hear the pump running and i checked for spark no spark now. My other son has been saying he thinks its the ecm so I just put a reflashed used ecm in. Did the security relearn procedure still nothing. whats next? Somebody told me check the cam and crank sensors and wiring. I also replaced all the ignition coils last summer.
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The two Radiator fans are always running even at start up on a cold day. I have not had time to investigate as yet but I am assuming it is the temperature sensor located near the thermostat or a relay. No CEL on. What it likely is and how to approach the trouble shooting?
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I have a 1996 volvo 850 when ever its cold outside my engine doesnt wanna start. when it cranks it doesnt stay going it idles down then stalls. What to look for or why its doing this?
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I have a 1996 Ford Taurus. With the headlight in the OFF position and the ignition off, key OUT, the headlights stay on. All other lights are off. The highbeam indicator in the cluster stays on also. I've disconnected the headlight switch (completely removed from vehicle), and the headlights still stay ON! I know absolutely nothing about this car.
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I have a 96 prelude that wont stay in 5th gear cant even hold it in...
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My Jetta runs great in the summer and all seasons around town... the temp stays around 195 or so, the heater works ok, etc. When I get on the interstate however (now that the temp has dropped) , the story changes. The temp gauge falls below 150 and the heater gets cold. I assumed the thermostat was stuck open, so I replaced it but it didn't solve the problem. I called a local dealer and on his recommendation, I replaced the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor. That also didn't solve the problem. I have had cars overheat in the past, but never one that overcooled! Wy my car cools too well at highway spheeds? It affects my gas mileage and makes for an uncomfortable ride on cold days!
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I own a 1996 Corolla DX with an auto transmission which has a few issues I would like to fix. The biggest issue is that sometimes it stays stuck at high RPMs (somewhere near 3,100) without changing gears which makes me have to give it some extra torque momentarily to change gear and drive at normal RPMs. But sometimes it does the opposite, when slowing down it sometimes stays at a higher gear and won't change to a lower gear until I've slowed down almost to a stop.
Another issue is that it is very slow to accelerate, it just feels real heavy and I regularly have to give it a lot of torque just to be at equal speed with the rest of the cars on the road, does this have a fix? Other than that there isn't any major issue that I actually know about, for this reason I'd like to know what place you would recommend me taking my car to get a full checkup to find any issues I don't know about.
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I have a 96 Buick century that the headlights will dim during acceleration and stay dimmed till I let off the throttle. Or they will essentially blink bright and dim at highway speeds. The weird thing is, at idle, the lights are fine!
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I have a 1995 Chevy 2500 with a 454 engine with 72K miles. The engine won't stay running (won't idle). There is fuel spraying into the throttle body. Not sure about the pattern being correct. If I spray starting fluid into the throttle body the engine starts running fine for a short time(until the fluid is consumed). So, I'm assuming it is a fuel delivery problem. The fuel filter is O.K. Don't know about the fuel pressure.
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My CR-V stalled out the other day 3 times. Then would not stay running. Now won't run at all. We have changed the Camshaft position sensors, spark plugs and air flow control valve. It has fuel pressure, spark, compression tests good and timing chains good. Running out of things to check.
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My car sometimes runs like a dream and then abruptly will lose power, act like it's not getting fuel, not respond to the accelerator and sputter and buck. My mechanic has rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned fuel filter, cleaned out tank, replaced hoses. He's familiar with Porsche engines and I know he's not blowing smoke up my nose, so to speak. He's tried everything he can think of. I never know when it's going to act up. It will run smoothly, I will drive it hard, drive it slow and easy, corner hard, not hard, and it sometimes stays happy, sometimes decides it doesn't want to run. It improves when clutch is pushed in, acts like it wants to respond, then after I let the clutch out and apply gas, it starts to buck and there's no power. Haven't been able to get it out of first when it does that.
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I know the issue of slow filling of the gas tank has been discussed extensively, but I haven't seen it discussed in the context of a cold car only.
Briefly, I have a 2010 VW Golf and if it has not been running for ~10-15 minutes, the gas pump clicks off as if it is full within 0.2-0.3 gallons. It doesn't even go into the tank and just spills out everywhere. Even in hot weather, if the car hasn't been running for a while (eg. overnight or all day at work), it needs 10-15 minutes of the engine running and then it will fill up all the way without problems. It's not an issue of the gas pump because I will just leave the car running at the gas station and 10 minutes later, I can fill up without a problem.
It's still under warranty but the dealer won't do anything because they can't reproduce it (too many red lights between the dealer and the gas station so the car is warmed up by they time they fill up gas). I haven't seen any issues online of slow fill being dependent on the car temperature.
Any specific things to ask them to check out that they could detect is damaged without being able to reproduce the problem?
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