from time to time when applying breaks there is a feeling and noise like I have hit an ice patch - pump breaks twice and all is well - Breaks are 1 year old / break fluid is full ?
View 8 Replies2000 VW cabrio, and the car alarm has been going off and why? It has gone off in empty parking lots, and much to my neighbors annoyance, several times in the middle of the night. Other than unplugging the battery when I get home what can i do about my alarm?
View 2 RepliesMy friend is willing to lend me her Cabrio that she had let sit for about a year. I replaced the battery and tried to start it. The alarm went off (we lost the key-remote thingy) and it did not start. The lights all worked but once we tried to turn it over it just went Click-click. The alarm shut off once we disconnected the battery.
View 8 RepliesMy 88 VW Cabriolet convertible has been having car problems since I got it, 1st the Clutch went out. Then we had the hoses in the engine fixed and a new Alternator. After that 5th and 3rd gear would pop out of it's gear, and that was fine because I could hold it in gear, but now the car can't move, you can turn on the car but you can't get it to move in any direction, the gears make sounds, as if they are moving but the car doesn't move.
View 3 Replies2002 VW Cabrio @80K miles no major repairs 1 1/2 years ago the car died while in motion - as if the ignition switch was turned off. While "dead in the water" I tried several things, cleaning battery cables (although horn & lights were strong), letting it cool, & jumper cables to no avail. It was towed to a local garage (who have been pretty good in the past) & the starter was replaced (they were puzzeled too, but that worked!!??). Fine for many months. Then another cutoff while in motion (30-40 mph). This time it started about 15 minutes later on its own. I drove it home & turned it off. When I went to move it into the garage it wouldn't start. After pushing it into the garage once again, cables were checked, the battery charged (again horn & lights were strong, but what the heck), checked all fuses, & looked for anything possibly suspicious. No luck.
In desperation I replaced the starter again (I know, it was probably just superstition at this point) & while at it cleaned every wiring connection I could find under the hood. It worked. The car started and ran fine, but I took it back to the original shop to see if they could find anything else - to avoid mid roadway flame outs! Understandably they were skeptical of finding the problem while it was still working. They ran it, drove, checked it, for several days & it did just fine. When I went to retrieve it wouldn't start!! Now they had it while in cardiac arrest, but before anything was diagnosed it came back to life on its own. It has been running fine for many months more.
It did it again today!! This time the 15 minute wait worked & it is back in our garage and as you can imagine my wife is not crazy about driving it again. Just some side notes: - When dead, all of the electrical system is out EXCEPT the ignition circuit - not even a click from the solinoid. - Previous to these "attacks" my wife has noticed some odd electrical occurences a day or two before, but not enough to disable the car. (dash lights flickering, acceleration stumble on takeoff, the radio going to safe mode when the power was never disconnected) - The only vague possible electrical anomoly is the installation of a Sirius radio receiver under the dash to the cigarette lighter. I haven't clue at this point.
Brake lights do not work on my 1997 vw cabrio fuse lights and break switch are good.....
View 13 RepliesWhen I fill my 2002 VW cabrio, the fuel nozzle keeps clicking off. I took it to the service department at the dealership and the service manager told me that there is no vent tube to clean out, no carbon filter and the sensor for the ORVR is at the inside bottom of the tank and the only POSSIBLE solution would be to replace the gas tank. This doesn't feel right given the other discussions on this board. Could the dealership be misleading me?
View 10 RepliesMy 2002 Volkswagen Cabrio won't start when it is hot, only when it is cold. Several times in the last few months, similar experiences such as the following has occurred. Yesterday, I drove approximately 15 miles, ran into a store for about 10 minutes and went back to the car and it started. Then drove about 10 miles and shopped for groceries for about 45 minutes, returned to car and it started. Drove about 10 more miles and went into a store for about 30 minutes...car wouldn't start. The engine does turn over. As the temperature gauge descends each line, I try to start the car and it will not start again until the gauge is completely at the cold line. My husband has replaced the battery, both temperature sensors, changed the fuel filter, changed the ignition coil and the starter in March.
One other time it gives me problems which is different than the above scenario is I have driven the car just one or two miles and had it off for only two minutes to five or ten minutes and could not start it for an hour or so.
An OBD scanner at an auto parts store gives several code readings, some of which say it is the fuel pump primary circuit, cylinder 1,2,3 & 4 injector circuit low, secondary air injection system relay A control circuit, evaporator emission system purge control valve circuit is shorted and, finally, evaporator emission system leak detection pump control circuit low. I have had readings done before by an OBD scanner and the problem didn't have anything to do with what the scanner said so I don't have much trust in those readings.
I have a 1998 Volkswagen Cabrio GLS 4Cyl2.0L. the wheel that raises and lowers the back of the seat has come out. The small plastic interior part appears to have snapped. Is there a way to order a replacement part and replace this myself?
View 4 Repliesmy 02 VW Cabrio has the nasty habit of the cruise control disconnecting at random. A tech supposedly diagnosed a faulty Cruise Control Module. Now the diagnostic is the vacuum pump. He did a throttle body alignment, the steering column switches check out, brake light circuit checks out, vacuum hoses all good, electrical connectors all tight and sealed with goop... so what could the problem be? It seems to work when cold and at lower speeds, but after warming up and doing freeway speeds, it's dead in the water and won't reset...
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 VW Cabrio (convertible) and the back window is beginning to peel away from the canvas roof. We called a mechanic who says the entire roof needs replacing. This seems crazy as the the window just appears to be glued to the canvas.
View 3 RepliesMy '98 Cabrio recently had the headlights both go out while driving at night on a curvy state highway. I pulled onto a side street and tried to figure out a way to be able to continue my drive home safely with lights. I found that by turning the ignition key to the right and jiggling the key I could get it to temporarily stay in a position to allow my lights to remain on.
In time, that solution was no longer an option and I discovered that by pulling the brights lever (it should be noted that it usually clicks into place) and holding it towards me, the lights would work, albeit on bright mode which tends to irritate fellow motorists. Strangely, the heater fan and wipers would only work while in this new found method of illuminated driving by releasing the brights switch and pulling it a second time towards me (remember, it doesn't lock into place as it should). How to repair this problem? It defies all logic as to why things on this car work or don't work.
I have a 1997 vw cabrio. I'm having problems with my signal lights. They start blinking super fast or not at all. When they do work if I hit the brake they stop working until I release the brake.
View 6 RepliesGot a 1996 Volkswagen Cabrio with around 125k miles. Recently the check engine light came on. Had the code pulled (P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response) and reset but it came back on shortly thereafter. I've also noticed that the car idles strangely, generally after it has warmed up a little bit. Basically it will idle rough and sound as though it might choke out but if you give it a little gas it goes back to a normal, even idle.
Right now it's getting around 20+ MPG average which seems a little low but I only purchased it 3 months ago so I don't have much to compare it against. One other thing I've noticed is that the plastic molding around where the gas nozzle goes in is cracked which makes it difficult to fill it up since it doesn't make a good seal unless you position the gas nozzle just right.
Any thoughts on whether either of these problems might be related to the weird idle? How hard is it to change the front 02 sensor?
I have only done 15000 motorway miles in my 2009 V6 TDI and seem to have a slight juddering feeling when braking. I am sure it did it for a day so a few months ago and disappeared - issue reappeared today. Wonder if it is warped discs? Car has been stood for 2 weeks.
Braking is fine and efficient it is as though you have that shuddering you get when ABS cuts in. Drove 500 miles this weekend and problem still there.
I have a 2000 volkswagen jetta 4 cyl and when I shut off the engine, what I believe to be the air compressor for the air conditioner starts an erratic clicking noise. sometimes it doesn't click at all, sometimes a little. I've had to jump start the car twice because I believe this may be running down my battery. Why this is happening or what the possible outcome will be...
View 2 Replies2000 V10 about 179k ... Well my wife was traveling from California to Everett, Wa area and well I told her to keep on oil level they failed to do so and check engine light came on. They pulled into Orielly shop managed to fill it back with oil but the only things that came up on engine light with shops OBD reader was air bag and possible fuel pump.
I don't have the codes but let me remind you I'm getting my information from my frustrated wife who moved up there with my kids while I'm in San Diego for Military Training. I will be heading that way soon but in the meantime I want to try to troubleshoot it. I asked her to go back to auto shop and get the codes this time.
The truck drives and runs fine now except engine light still on and around 30mph from what I'm being told with the best description possible it surges. Recent tune up to include wires and plugs. Air filter is good to go. I'm leaning towards fuel filter? maybe bad gas on the travel but if it only does it at certain speeds maybe not. Or Air system like vacuum leak? Possible transmission issue? Not sure if that would cause anything or not.
I have a 2000 VW Beetle with about 95,000 miles on it. This morning we drove it with the spare key that we haven't used in months. It ran a little rough, and when I turned a corner it seemed to make a creaking-like noise (mostly during any weight shift). This afternoon after driving it during the day a few times and putting gas in it, I drove it home from work on the highway, about 1 mile from home at a stop light the car sputtered and the check engine light went on. It continued running and I drove to the mechanic and had the code read, it came out as 1612. They said it was possibly something with the ECM... what this means? Is it just a coincidence that my spare key was being used? Is it a misfire? Something with the electrical system...
View 11 RepliesWhen decelerating and braking, there is a strange clicking noise, and it seems to be coming from the brakes in some way on my 2002 Accent. It does sound like a metal clicking. Steering doesn't affect it, it happens on a corner or on the motorway. The only way to stop it is accelerate. The clicking is faster when the car is going faster, and slower when the car is going slower. The brake pedal isn't vibrating or anything, and I cant actually feel it.
I am certain this is a braking issue as it only started just after I got new brake pads about 2 months ago. It is not transmission related or anything like that. I have had some suggestions about axle's and CV joints but I doubt it's either of those as they are in good condition, and as I said, this started directly after having new brake pads installed!
I havent had my 2000 taurus too long.... Last week a knocking noise started. It usually happens when I am turning but there have been a few times it does it when I am braking. It doesn't happen right away - just after I've been driving for at least 15 minutes or so....
I got this looked at last weekend at by a mechanic and they drove it and didnt hear a thing and supposedly things underneath looked okay. I can tell that things ARE NOT OKAY. Also, since this knocking started, my alignment seems to have gotten off a bit. I may be a blonde but I've had enough problems with past cars that I usually know what I'm talking about!!!!
Recently I've noticed more that when we first start the hyundai in the morning or after sitting a while and we use the brakes it grinds/ squeals a little and then doesn't after about 2 or 3 miles. Is this something to get checked out or should I spray something on my brakes to lubricate?
My next step that I though of was to get a simple automatic car wash cause it's been a bad winter in Rhode Island and the street shave been flooded with rock salt. I figure that might cause some friction under the pads.