Volkswagen - Cabrio :: 1988 - Clutch Went Out Now Car Won't Move?
Jan 26, 2012
My 88 VW Cabriolet convertible has been having car problems since I got it, 1st the Clutch went out. Then we had the hoses in the engine fixed and a new Alternator. After that 5th and 3rd gear would pop out of it's gear, and that was fine because I could hold it in gear, but now the car can't move, you can turn on the car but you can't get it to move in any direction, the gears make sounds, as if they are moving but the car doesn't move.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
My friend is willing to lend me her Cabrio that she had let sit for about a year. I replaced the battery and tried to start it. The alarm went off (we lost the key-remote thingy) and it did not start. The lights all worked but once we tried to turn it over it just went Click-click. The alarm shut off once we disconnected the battery.
View 8 Replies
2000 VW cabrio, and the car alarm has been going off and why? It has gone off in empty parking lots, and much to my neighbors annoyance, several times in the middle of the night. Other than unplugging the battery when I get home what can i do about my alarm?
View 2 Replies
2002 VW Cabrio @80K miles no major repairs 1 1/2 years ago the car died while in motion - as if the ignition switch was turned off. While "dead in the water" I tried several things, cleaning battery cables (although horn & lights were strong), letting it cool, & jumper cables to no avail. It was towed to a local garage (who have been pretty good in the past) & the starter was replaced (they were puzzeled too, but that worked!!??). Fine for many months. Then another cutoff while in motion (30-40 mph). This time it started about 15 minutes later on its own. I drove it home & turned it off. When I went to move it into the garage it wouldn't start. After pushing it into the garage once again, cables were checked, the battery charged (again horn & lights were strong, but what the heck), checked all fuses, & looked for anything possibly suspicious. No luck.
In desperation I replaced the starter again (I know, it was probably just superstition at this point) & while at it cleaned every wiring connection I could find under the hood. It worked. The car started and ran fine, but I took it back to the original shop to see if they could find anything else - to avoid mid roadway flame outs! Understandably they were skeptical of finding the problem while it was still working. They ran it, drove, checked it, for several days & it did just fine. When I went to retrieve it wouldn't start!! Now they had it while in cardiac arrest, but before anything was diagnosed it came back to life on its own. It has been running fine for many months more.
It did it again today!! This time the 15 minute wait worked & it is back in our garage and as you can imagine my wife is not crazy about driving it again. Just some side notes: - When dead, all of the electrical system is out EXCEPT the ignition circuit - not even a click from the solinoid. - Previous to these "attacks" my wife has noticed some odd electrical occurences a day or two before, but not enough to disable the car. (dash lights flickering, acceleration stumble on takeoff, the radio going to safe mode when the power was never disconnected) - The only vague possible electrical anomoly is the installation of a Sirius radio receiver under the dash to the cigarette lighter. I haven't clue at this point.
View 5 Replies
Brake lights do not work on my 1997 vw cabrio fuse lights and break switch are good.....
View 13 Replies
When I fill my 2002 VW cabrio, the fuel nozzle keeps clicking off. I took it to the service department at the dealership and the service manager told me that there is no vent tube to clean out, no carbon filter and the sensor for the ORVR is at the inside bottom of the tank and the only POSSIBLE solution would be to replace the gas tank. This doesn't feel right given the other discussions on this board. Could the dealership be misleading me?
View 10 Replies
from time to time when applying breaks there is a feeling and noise like I have hit an ice patch - pump breaks twice and all is well - Breaks are 1 year old / break fluid is full ?
View 8 Replies
My 2002 Volkswagen Cabrio won't start when it is hot, only when it is cold. Several times in the last few months, similar experiences such as the following has occurred. Yesterday, I drove approximately 15 miles, ran into a store for about 10 minutes and went back to the car and it started. Then drove about 10 miles and shopped for groceries for about 45 minutes, returned to car and it started. Drove about 10 more miles and went into a store for about 30 minutes...car wouldn't start. The engine does turn over. As the temperature gauge descends each line, I try to start the car and it will not start again until the gauge is completely at the cold line. My husband has replaced the battery, both temperature sensors, changed the fuel filter, changed the ignition coil and the starter in March.
One other time it gives me problems which is different than the above scenario is I have driven the car just one or two miles and had it off for only two minutes to five or ten minutes and could not start it for an hour or so.
An OBD scanner at an auto parts store gives several code readings, some of which say it is the fuel pump primary circuit, cylinder 1,2,3 & 4 injector circuit low, secondary air injection system relay A control circuit, evaporator emission system purge control valve circuit is shorted and, finally, evaporator emission system leak detection pump control circuit low. I have had readings done before by an OBD scanner and the problem didn't have anything to do with what the scanner said so I don't have much trust in those readings.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1998 Volkswagen Cabrio GLS 4Cyl2.0L. the wheel that raises and lowers the back of the seat has come out. The small plastic interior part appears to have snapped. Is there a way to order a replacement part and replace this myself?
View 4 Replies
my 02 VW Cabrio has the nasty habit of the cruise control disconnecting at random. A tech supposedly diagnosed a faulty Cruise Control Module. Now the diagnostic is the vacuum pump. He did a throttle body alignment, the steering column switches check out, brake light circuit checks out, vacuum hoses all good, electrical connectors all tight and sealed with goop... so what could the problem be? It seems to work when cold and at lower speeds, but after warming up and doing freeway speeds, it's dead in the water and won't reset...
View 7 Replies
I have a 2002 VW Cabrio (convertible) and the back window is beginning to peel away from the canvas roof. We called a mechanic who says the entire roof needs replacing. This seems crazy as the the window just appears to be glued to the canvas.
View 3 Replies
My '98 Cabrio recently had the headlights both go out while driving at night on a curvy state highway. I pulled onto a side street and tried to figure out a way to be able to continue my drive home safely with lights. I found that by turning the ignition key to the right and jiggling the key I could get it to temporarily stay in a position to allow my lights to remain on.
In time, that solution was no longer an option and I discovered that by pulling the brights lever (it should be noted that it usually clicks into place) and holding it towards me, the lights would work, albeit on bright mode which tends to irritate fellow motorists. Strangely, the heater fan and wipers would only work while in this new found method of illuminated driving by releasing the brights switch and pulling it a second time towards me (remember, it doesn't lock into place as it should). How to repair this problem? It defies all logic as to why things on this car work or don't work.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1997 vw cabrio. I'm having problems with my signal lights. They start blinking super fast or not at all. When they do work if I hit the brake they stop working until I release the brake.
View 6 Replies
Got a 1996 Volkswagen Cabrio with around 125k miles. Recently the check engine light came on. Had the code pulled (P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response) and reset but it came back on shortly thereafter. I've also noticed that the car idles strangely, generally after it has warmed up a little bit. Basically it will idle rough and sound as though it might choke out but if you give it a little gas it goes back to a normal, even idle.
Right now it's getting around 20+ MPG average which seems a little low but I only purchased it 3 months ago so I don't have much to compare it against. One other thing I've noticed is that the plastic molding around where the gas nozzle goes in is cracked which makes it difficult to fill it up since it doesn't make a good seal unless you position the gas nozzle just right.
Any thoughts on whether either of these problems might be related to the weird idle? How hard is it to change the front 02 sensor?
View 1 Replies
I have a 1988 VW scirocco with 39,000+ miles 16v with a rattle that seems to be coming from the engine area. Here's what I've observed...while driving down the road when I let off the gas pedal, there's a rattle that sounds like a loose part inside the engine. It happens when going down hill and sometimes on flat areas, not while going up hills. The car is a manual trans. I recently had the gaskets replaced and all fluids flushed as well as a tune-up.
View 6 Replies
I just finished replacing the entire AC system on my 88 E150 ... All was well at first but shortly after finishing the r12 charge, the clutch began to click very loudly when engaging or disengaging. You can clearly hear it inside the cab. The air gap was set to .028 which is within spec according to the manual. I checked the air gap today and it was about .030
Am thinking,, could the snap ring have come loose that holds the pulley on allowing the pulley to be pulled forward when it engages? Once engaged the tension from the belt pulls the pulley back in in alignment? It sounds like two pieces of metal smacking together, even when it disengages. Kinda of like if you had the pulley in one hand and the clutch in the other and smack them together.
I did have a little trouble getting the snap ring to seat in the groove on the bottom side of the snap ring. I know it locked in the groove very good where the gap in the ring is and on both sides. The thicker bottom of the ring, I was not absolutely positive it was in all the way. i lightly tried tapping on it and it wouldn't go in any farther. There was no visible gap, I just couldn't tell if that thicker part was in all the way.
I used the proper removal and install tool when setting the air gap. The install tool threaded onto the compressor shaft and pressed the clutch plate on as you tightened the outer nut, so I didn't use a hammer...
I have two different new clutch plates. I used the one on the right as the one on the left fit a little tight on the shaft. The compressor is a FS6 xbolt and all the parts are motorcraft. What to check?
View 6 Replies
My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
View 3 Replies
How would I test (if Possible) the A/C Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch on my 88 E-150 4.9L? I had to replace the evaporator, it was leaking along a seam. I have a feeling the Cycling Switch is bad too.
I was hoping for a simple test w/o Gauges. The Switch is in a real tough spot to remove it. I also heard they could be adjusted. There are no leaks in the system and no blockages, that we detected when we evacuated and recharged the system.
View 6 Replies
We were borrowing my brother-in-law's 2006 Jetta and the day after a snow storm, the windshield wipers stopped working. They came up half way and then stopped and don't move further. You can hear a whirring noise,like something is trying to go, but no movement. We've been quoted $500-600 to replace the windshield wipers and motor, but we don't think they need to be replaced, just repaired.
View 6 Replies
I drive (or more recently used to drive) a 2002 VW Jetta which has been having extreme difficulty running correctly during moist weather. Initially, upon start-up, I will note a severe problem.... it seems as if it's shaky, very shaky, and does not want to move. Upon trying to move it ignoring it's obvious signs, it does not want to take when I push in the gas....seeming to jerk or move incredibly slow. Usually feeling as if I can barely get it to move a 10 yards or so before being too nervous to push it any further. These issues seem to exist far far far more frequently in wet or moist weather (even a day or 2 after it has rained).
The car has always been well taken care of. What are the possible causes, then I might have some better luck requesting services upon calling mechanics around the area.... I am currently in college, away from home, and I absolutely cannot afford to get "nickle-and-dimed" by the dealership over every possible minor detail which could POSSIBLY need some tuning-up. It currently has just over 100,000 miles and has never had any major replacements.
View 5 Replies
I have an 88 ranger 2.9 manual trans. The clutch safety switch wires melted (red with light blue) 2 come off the ignition, I traced the one to the clutch switch and replaced. My problem is my book says the other goes to " electronic shift control module", I can't find this module and I can't seem to chase wire as it gets lost in wire loom.
View 4 Replies
