Volkswagen - Beetle :: 2004 - Unlocking And Locking Car Via Remote Working Intermittently
Jan 15, 2014
VW New Beetle convertible 2004 ... Unlocking and locking my car via the remote largely stopped working (with my main key and the spare). I took the car to the repair shop, and after driving 20 min, the remote worked fine. They checked the computer to see if failures had registered (they had) and told me I'd likely have to replace the part in the door (pricey!) if the problem persisted. It has. The remote won't work at all, and then after I drive the car for a while, it works (as if it is somehow being recharged by driving.) I phoned my repair guy again, and he's mystified, cannot explain how driving for a period of time makes the key remote work.
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I noticed that my key fob has stopped working for remote locking/unlocking. This was not fixed with a brand new battery, and I just noticed that the depressed "unlock" button seems go have lost its subtle click, so there may be a mechanical failure inside there.
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I have a 2012 XLE that I bought brand new in 2012 and twice this week I had locking/unlocking problems.
The first one was mid-week. I pressed the unlock button on the fob and the car beeped multiple times instead of a standard 2 beeps. I heard the locks unlock but could not open the driver's door. It felt as if the lock was stuck. I even tried the mechanical key that's hidden inside the fob and the same result. I then opened the passenger door and got in and moved the lock back and forth a few times and then everything worked fine.
Earlier this morning, I had the opposite problem. I could not lock the car using the fob. Had to do it manually like back in the day.
Can the battery or contacts in the fob be slowly going out? Should I start using my other fob? Should I have the dealership look into it?
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I'm having a problem with my remote lock/alarm system in my 2010 Corolla LE. The driver door suddenly stopped locking and unlocking with the remote. The other 3 doors work fine, but the driver door won't work. When I lock the driver door with the key and press the lock button, everything locks and unlocks like normal. If I wait awhile and try to unlock the doors again, the driver door lock again won't work.
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My 2005 Prius has today developed a fault, the central locking won't open or close with either of the remote key fobs. I allowed for a strange coincidence that the batteries in both fobs could die at the very same time and replaced one, still not working. The mini-key in the fob will open/close the central locking (all doors plus rear hatch). But of course the alarm would sound as soon as I opened the door, inserting the fob into the "ignition" socket and starting the car silenced the alarm after about 30 seconds, but the remote fobs still won't operate the central locking or activate the alarm.
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Since delivery a month ago we have had 2 minor quirks.
keyless locking/unlocking rarely works. Tried using the 2nd key for a day or so but no difference. No light in the remote or indicator in the dash telling me battery is dead...
The rear courtesy lights above the rear seats only work occasionally. All button settings seem to be set correctly to come on when th doors open but they don't . Most of the time you cant even turn them on manually but sometimes they work..
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The door panel came unattached and while i was checking it out the door bulb holder touched some metal and sparked. now windows, power door lock, mirrors do not work. Fuse panel has no symbol for windows...
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I just purchased a 2004 new Beetle. When you step on the brake, there is a noise that comes from the trunk or back of the car. The sound is like a window shade in the house been let go when it rolling up. This is not everytime you step on the brake, every 3rd or 4th time. We have taken the spare tire and jack out nothing...
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I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe , the doors keep locking and unlocking. The abs and brake lights come on and stay on. When the doors act up the engine light comes on . The best is it'll stall out. Doesn't happen every time , but 99%
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I had a strange issue arise today. used the car this morning and all was well. Came home this afternoon and clicked the remote fob to unlock the car and..... nothing. no indicator flash and the central locks didnt work.
thought the battery was gone in the fob so went inside and got the spare fob and tried that. clicked that and again nothing.
replaced the battery with a new cr2032 battery and nothing, checked the 12v battery via cars diagnostics and a healthy 12.6 and 14.1 outputs. central locking works via the button on the car door. so fuses, motors etc are ok.
went online and saw the fob reprogram threads. been spending the last 7 hours trying to reprogram the fobs. searching the net and trying any 'new' or different methods suggested.
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So I have an 05 MK4 GLI, my alarm has not worked since the day I got it. Hold the alarm button on the fob, no luck. when I lock or unlock the car, the lights don't flash and the horn doesn't beep. My ex had an 03 GLS 2.0, alarm/lock/unlock worked without a problem, so why mine doesn't work.
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My wife said that her keys stopped locking/unlocking doors. I checked the keys and replaced the battery just to be sure. No change. Older keys also couldn't unlock/lock the car.
Both keys can start the car and has blinking red LED flushing when any buttons pushed. Is there a "Remote" button somewhere in a car to allow remote operation?
2007 RX400h 110k mi.
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My driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
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I got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
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We rebuilt my 1974 VW Beetle (new case, new jugs, mains, oil pump, etc,). With two different gauges we measure 4 pounds of oil pressure, The motor cranks and runs fine. We don't run it long. We ordered another new oil pump. What could be wrong?
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My friend has a 2002 Beetle and the head lamps seems to blow out about every 2-3 months.
I looked at the connectors and there is no water leaking in and the connectors seem sound. Nothing appears obvious by eye. There may be a voltage spike when it is turned on but I don't have a way to test for this.
What is going on and what to do to address this.
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I have a mystery on my hands and am at a complete loss. I have a 1969 Volkswagen Beetle that will not hold an idle. It will start up just fine and as long as you have your foot on the gas, it will stay alive. As soon as you let off the car sputters and dies. Another symptom is that the is a miss in the engine, not sure if the two are related or need to time it and then check on the idle. Here is what I have done in an attempt to fix the issue:
I have been able to adjust the idle to get it to stay alive for about 30 seconds longer, but no matter ho much I adjust it still struggles and dies. Idles very rough no matter what.
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Replaced the condenser and points (adjusted the points properly etc.)
Replaced and gapped the spark plugs
Replaced the idle cutoff solenoid
Adjusted the automatic choke
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Some have suggested a vacuum leak, and i know i have to put some sort of solution on the vacuum connections, but since I am relatively new to the world of VW beetles I am not quite sure where those are and what to put on and what to do if there is a leak.
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I have a 2002 VW Beetle with a failing transmission at fewer than 60,000 miles, apparently one of the ones made in Mexico. VW has already replaced the catalytic converter. There is a lot of online complaining about the transmission issue and about the catalytic converter. The car is in otherwise good condition or seems to be. Would it be a good or bad investment to replace the transmission for about $2400?
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Anything that could be causing this.
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I own a 2007 VW Beetle (automatic) that I bought brand new and it currently has 85,500 miles on it. In the past year or so, I feel like this car has become even more of a money pit than it was to begin with (note to readers: do not buy a Volkswagen unless you are a millionaire!). I have one major concern and looking to see what others know or have experienced with this...
I got an 80,000 mile service done on my car towards the end of April. The mileage on my car was around 82,500, I think. The oil is synthetic and the dealer always recommends having the oil changed every 10,000 miles. The handy little sticker in my car indicated that I change the oil at 92,500. Fast forward to the end of June... check engine light came on though there was no difference in the driving of the car. I am hypersensitive about my car acting differently or driving oddly because I know how VW will gouge my wallet! I took the car to have the code read and it came back "Air Injection" which of course can be a multitude of things. I don't like paying people $100 just to tell me what's wrong with my car and not have that $100 apply to repairs. So, I took my car to a German car speciality shop. They ran diagnostics and told me that it was the Air Pump Injection Valve. A quick $450 later and my car is off and on the road.
Small problem... it wasn't driving well AT ALL. No check engine light but I KNEW there was something wrong. Car would "rev" or drive in overdrive until it switched gears which always happened at a higher RPM than usual. Sometimes when I started off from a stop, I would notice a "slip" in the engine/transmission (pardon me but I don't really know that much about cars). Other times, usually when turning, I would notice a knocking noise coming from under the hood. The car was literally SHAKING. Not vibrating. I know what a tire balance looks like - steering wheel shaking usually at higher speeds (60+), but that is NOT what this felt like. The steering wheel would be still, but the car itself shaking. This happened only at lower speeds (average 40 mph - I drive almost exclusively on city roads).
SO.. off I go back to the shop. This time I decided to return to the VW Dealership because I trust that they really do know what's wrong even if they overcharge you. They told me that there was very little OIL in the car which was causing the engine to knock. That is so puzzling since I had only driven 3,000 miles since my last oil change. I promptly asked them to check for a leak to which they replied that they already did. No oil leak. The reply I got as to why it would consume that much oil was "sometimes the level of oil consumption just increases." HMMMMMM.....
My car is driving very well now that oil has been added. No knocking. No slipping. No shaking (magic! they suggested a tire balance which I agreed to but then they said they couldn't because the rim was bent. That is interesting since they just rotated them in April.) I can't imagine why the oil would disappear after 3,000 miles. Could the repair shop who did the valve replacement have drained the oil?
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I have a 1968 Beetle that has been sitting for a long time, after working through a list of items for the restart I put a new battery in and turned it over. Starter works fine and turns engine over but when I turn the key off starter will not stop until I disconnect the battery, When I reconnect battery everything is fine again until I try to start and starter keeps going until I disconnect battery again.
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