Volkswagen - Beetle :: 2001 / 1.9 TDI Diesel Torque Converter Unlocks
Jul 15, 2015
I bought a 2001 Beetle with a 1.9 TDI Diesel engine, automatic transmission 200K miles. When sitting at a stoplight or even when just starting out in the morning the transmission won't engage. I have to bring the engine up to about 1600 RPM's then with a clunk it goes. After that it shifts fine. It even down shifts nicely when going up a hill. Now, if I am on the freeway with it and want to pass another car, it will unlock again and slip if I get on it to hard. It then will lock back in and go. Checked the transmission fluid and its full. (I still can't believe that can't put a stupid dip stick in new cars) I am trying to do all the possible cheap fixes first in hopes that it could be something easier then replacing the transmission.
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I have a 2001 Volkswagen Beetle that has a rattle in the rear of the car over both wheels. It sounds like plastic on plastic. At first I thought it was the struts which I replaced yesterday, but the rattle still continues. It sounds like it's in the suspension system, because it only rattles when I drive over bumps. I checked the plastic boots that fit over the struts, but they feel firmly in place. Should I have replaced them as well? What should I be looking for?
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My 2001 VW New Beetle has started making a loud, whining noise coming from outside the car along w/ some buzzing whenever I am driving. I find that I have to change gears about 10 miles sooner than I should in order to stop the noise. But now it's happening in 5th gear occasionally too, and of course I can't go to a higher gear to make it shut up. What could this mean?
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With my first tow under my belt from this weekend in my new-to-me truck, I quickly learned that my TC shutters in 5th if I hold fuel down enough to bog the truck before it wants to down shift. The shutters are pretty violent as compared to others I've experienced in Explorers and F150s. When do you know it is time to change it out? Or, is there something else I can or should do before changing it?
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Anything besides a worn out Torque Converter clutch that might cause the incredible amount of shaking when the transmission tries to lock the TC?
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I've done the testing of hitting the brakes when the TC is locked and when it's off the shudder disappears. My question is I recently had a trans flush and both internal and external filters replaced. There was a hint of noise before then but it seems it's getting progressively worse. Could it be that they used the incorrect trans fluid? Reading through it seems as if I should follow the steps of dropping the pan and looking for signs and symptoms and then replace with the correct mercon fluid (if that's not already what's there). Then maybe some additives like shudder fix? I just want to make sure I take the correct steps to solve the problem as to not break the bank getting a new TC put in and missed something cheap and easy. Also reading it could be motor related maybe a misfire so just looking for pinpoint the problem.
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I have a 2001 Montana with 140,000 miles on it. I bought it used five years ago. The transmission is going out. The shop did a scan and found the torque converter clutch is sticking on. What this is? Should I make the repairs or ditch the van?
Good points: four new tires in December 2013; body is great; and minor maintenance repairs.
Bad points: the air conditioning is broken and the heat is forever terrible.
The van is currently at my regular shop and they do not do transmissions so I do not have an estimate or more information about the problem.
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Before taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
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Ok so here is my problem now. I'm sure its in the tramny but not sure what else. My shift from 3-5 has always been a little hard. Yesterday on my way to work I noticed shifts 1 thru 3 were hitting hard. Once I got up to 65 mph it was okay. Then pulling into work when I shifted to reverse it didn't go into gear right away and then it would hit into gear. Later that evening on my way home from work it was shifting the same but seemed worse. Then my tow/haul light started flashing and it seemed like the torque convertor wouldn't lock in. It would just stay in 5th gear and the more throttle I gave it the rpms would go up but I would only get a little response from it. Then a few miles down the road it just completely shut off on me. It will not even try to turn over. I could also hear a noise coming from underneath the truck. Something ive never heard before. I really need to figure this out
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So, I was on my way back home driving through the middle of nowhere Utah late at night, when I had an injector tip crack. I was able to identify which one and unplug it so I could get to Grand Junction, CO (about 350 miles away) where I have family. After a power nap I started calling parts stores and found an injector from Advanced Auto Parts (I couldn't find a motorcraft reman, but I was restricted for time). Installed it and all seemed good so I hit the road again. However, nothing changed. It still had the bad miss (rough idle, jerking/bucking when the torque converter locks up) just like when I had the injector unplugged.
The truck is an early 2004 6.0. It's the number 4 injector. I finally got home and hooked up my AE scanner to discover a #4 injector circuit low P0270 code and circuit contribution/balance fault P0272. It's definitely missing because disabling it has no effect. This could be a loose connector at the injector or FICM, because I can't afford another injector right now.
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My girlfriend's 2001 cavalier has about 160k on it and about a week ago it started shifting harshly accelerating to highway speeds and the CEL came on along with the traction control/abs warning light. I pulled the OBD2 code and it was P0742, Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On. We took it to the transmission shop down the street the next day and they wanted $600 to diagnose. We called 'shenanigans' and decided she should take it to her regular shop. On the drive over the transmission shifted normally. Both shops noticed that the transmission cooler lines were rusty and seeping, but neither thought it was the cause of the problem. The shifting issue hasn't recurred even after a couple hundred miles during the week. She hasn't had the transmission fluid changed and doesn't know if it had been when she bought it about 80k miles ago. It seems to me that pre-emptively draining the fluid, changing the filter and refilling, especially to check for debris in the fluid, would make sense, especially if it was debris jamming the circuit that caused the error code in the first place.
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We rebuilt my 1974 VW Beetle (new case, new jugs, mains, oil pump, etc,). With two different gauges we measure 4 pounds of oil pressure, The motor cranks and runs fine. We don't run it long. We ordered another new oil pump. What could be wrong?
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My friend has a 2002 Beetle and the head lamps seems to blow out about every 2-3 months.
I looked at the connectors and there is no water leaking in and the connectors seem sound. Nothing appears obvious by eye. There may be a voltage spike when it is turned on but I don't have a way to test for this.
What is going on and what to do to address this.
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I have a mystery on my hands and am at a complete loss. I have a 1969 Volkswagen Beetle that will not hold an idle. It will start up just fine and as long as you have your foot on the gas, it will stay alive. As soon as you let off the car sputters and dies. Another symptom is that the is a miss in the engine, not sure if the two are related or need to time it and then check on the idle. Here is what I have done in an attempt to fix the issue:
I have been able to adjust the idle to get it to stay alive for about 30 seconds longer, but no matter ho much I adjust it still struggles and dies. Idles very rough no matter what.
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Replaced the condenser and points (adjusted the points properly etc.)
Replaced and gapped the spark plugs
Replaced the idle cutoff solenoid
Adjusted the automatic choke
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Some have suggested a vacuum leak, and i know i have to put some sort of solution on the vacuum connections, but since I am relatively new to the world of VW beetles I am not quite sure where those are and what to put on and what to do if there is a leak.
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I have a 2002 VW Beetle with a failing transmission at fewer than 60,000 miles, apparently one of the ones made in Mexico. VW has already replaced the catalytic converter. There is a lot of online complaining about the transmission issue and about the catalytic converter. The car is in otherwise good condition or seems to be. Would it be a good or bad investment to replace the transmission for about $2400?
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Anything that could be causing this.
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I own a 2007 VW Beetle (automatic) that I bought brand new and it currently has 85,500 miles on it. In the past year or so, I feel like this car has become even more of a money pit than it was to begin with (note to readers: do not buy a Volkswagen unless you are a millionaire!). I have one major concern and looking to see what others know or have experienced with this...
I got an 80,000 mile service done on my car towards the end of April. The mileage on my car was around 82,500, I think. The oil is synthetic and the dealer always recommends having the oil changed every 10,000 miles. The handy little sticker in my car indicated that I change the oil at 92,500. Fast forward to the end of June... check engine light came on though there was no difference in the driving of the car. I am hypersensitive about my car acting differently or driving oddly because I know how VW will gouge my wallet! I took the car to have the code read and it came back "Air Injection" which of course can be a multitude of things. I don't like paying people $100 just to tell me what's wrong with my car and not have that $100 apply to repairs. So, I took my car to a German car speciality shop. They ran diagnostics and told me that it was the Air Pump Injection Valve. A quick $450 later and my car is off and on the road.
Small problem... it wasn't driving well AT ALL. No check engine light but I KNEW there was something wrong. Car would "rev" or drive in overdrive until it switched gears which always happened at a higher RPM than usual. Sometimes when I started off from a stop, I would notice a "slip" in the engine/transmission (pardon me but I don't really know that much about cars). Other times, usually when turning, I would notice a knocking noise coming from under the hood. The car was literally SHAKING. Not vibrating. I know what a tire balance looks like - steering wheel shaking usually at higher speeds (60+), but that is NOT what this felt like. The steering wheel would be still, but the car itself shaking. This happened only at lower speeds (average 40 mph - I drive almost exclusively on city roads).
SO.. off I go back to the shop. This time I decided to return to the VW Dealership because I trust that they really do know what's wrong even if they overcharge you. They told me that there was very little OIL in the car which was causing the engine to knock. That is so puzzling since I had only driven 3,000 miles since my last oil change. I promptly asked them to check for a leak to which they replied that they already did. No oil leak. The reply I got as to why it would consume that much oil was "sometimes the level of oil consumption just increases." HMMMMMM.....
My car is driving very well now that oil has been added. No knocking. No slipping. No shaking (magic! they suggested a tire balance which I agreed to but then they said they couldn't because the rim was bent. That is interesting since they just rotated them in April.) I can't imagine why the oil would disappear after 3,000 miles. Could the repair shop who did the valve replacement have drained the oil?
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I have a 1968 Beetle that has been sitting for a long time, after working through a list of items for the restart I put a new battery in and turned it over. Starter works fine and turns engine over but when I turn the key off starter will not stop until I disconnect the battery, When I reconnect battery everything is fine again until I try to start and starter keeps going until I disconnect battery again.
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I have a 2002 bettle with about 150k on it. was running fine and one day while the wife was driving it she heard a loud pop/bang and it started missing and has low power. Starts fine just dosent have much power and is missing on one cylinder.
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I have an 06 Beetle 5 cylinder, and just the other day, after getting a new battery and they installed it, when I'm driving and step on the gas into overdrive, it gets really loud, almost like a knocking or loud muffler that has a hole it it. However, it doesn't do this when I'm in park and step on the gas. Only in drive. It still has great power, but is loud now. I'm worried that the shop did something to mess it up, but they won't check it. There is enough oil in the engine.
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Have an 01 vw beetle stuck in third unless I manually downshift it but still wont shift into overdrive.
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