Volkswagen :: 2004 Golf Yellow Check Engine Light Comes On When Driving On Highway
Feb 5, 2014
2004 Golf, manual transmission. The yellow check engine light comes on when it's driven on the highway for more than 10 miles or so (60-70 mph).
The light goes off on it's own after about 36 hours of suburb driving - 1-2 miles at a time on suburb roads, lots of lights and not going over 40 mph.
1) Why the light is coming on? No other signs of trouble occur - oil looks good, temp stays fine, no smells, etc.
2) Why the light goes off after 4-6 miles/36hours?
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2006 Prius with 164,000 miles.
First in the morning, starts fine, 500 feet later I'm turning out of neighborhood and I get lit up with:
Red triangle master light
Yellow brake warning (went away after I did signal check)
Check engine
Maint required light
The maintenance light is on because I'm 5,000 miles out of an oil change. I checked the stick, it did appear low, so I added a half quart of mobil 1 5w-30.
The inverter pump was changed due to recall in 2012, and I do still see turbulences in the fluid.
I have 3 pips of gasoline in the tank.
The 12V is a newly replaced yellowtop from elearnaid. Replaced about 1 year ago.
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I just purchased a 2013 Elantra GT, 3 days ago. I was driving down the highway and my check engine light came on. There is only 480 miles on my car! I know it's not a gas cap. I haven't even put gas in it since I drove it off the lot. Is there a way to check for the code thrown without a scanner? I use to have a jeep liberty and I could click the key over 3 times an the code would pop up.
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My truck is a 1997 nissan pickup with. 254,000 miles. Check engine light come on. Only when I am at highway speed. As long as I am in city traffic, nothing I have a code scanner code (PO302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. I change spark plugs and wires and dist cap. But check engine light came back on. I put in shop they claim that they can't find nothing wrong. I guess I need to find a new mechanic.
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Check tire pressure light appeared today while driving on the highway today. checked all pressure but they all read fine. what could be wrong? Is there something I am not getting here ?
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I drive a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible with about 130,000 miles on it.
I was driving down the highway in early November when the check engine light came on my car. I took it to Aamco who did some diagnosis and replaced a solenoid assembly in the transmission. The light went off and I was on my way. I never got the exact code.
About a month after that, the light came on again. This time, I got a low end code reader and scanned it myself. I got a "P0700" code, which I've read is a generic code that the transmission system sends to the computer or something. So I used my reader to erase it. However, the light came on 2 days later while I was driving down the highway at about 70 MPH.
So I went to an auto parts store to get a more detailed scan with a better tool. This one came up "P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit".
This feels weird, because the solenoid assembly was just replaced a month ago (and is still under warranty).
The car seems to drive okay. I don't notice any actual problems in shifting. The tachometer seemed to get up to about 3000 RPM on the highway. But I've seen practically new cars do that. The last time I had serious transmission problem it would rev up to about 5000 or 6000 RPM on the highway and still only getting up to about 40 MPH. That was 3 years ago and at the time I had a fairly expensive transmission repair (which included a new torque converter).
But like I said, the car seems to be driving okay. I don't drive much. Maybe 100 miles a week? And even that is mostly optional in town driving. I'm not looking to keep this car for more than another 20,000 to 25,000 miles though for the time being I cannot afford a new one.
What are the possible causes here? What are the consequences of ignoring this? Like I said, it's still driving fine and as the old saying goes "if it's not broke, don't fix it".
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My 04 GTI 1.8T got the infamous codes P0300, P0303 and P0301 yesterday morning. The check-engine light flash when I drive it. It is a little rough when the check-engine light flashes, but it is drivable and nothing major. When the car idle or when it come to a complete stop for 15 seconds or so, the check-engine light goes away and it comes back after 15 seconds or so after took off from stop.
I cleaned the MAF last night, but the check-engine light still acts the same way as yesterday on the way work this morning. The codes refer to miss-fire. This is my first VW.
Since I can easily get sparkplug from Checkers, I'll try it first. Checkers carries Autolite, ACDelco, NGK and Champions. Which brand do you prefer for VW engine? I hope that it is not the coil pack. It is expensive for $30 each at ECS Tuning.
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I know a few days ago all of my blinker lights were working properly since I had the car serviced at the dealer and they made me test all the lights before I dropped it off. But yesterday my "check the lights" yellow lightbulb indicator came on, so I thought, ok, probably one of lights burned out. But then, when I needed to turn left, I saw my blinker on the dashboard blink with twice the usual frequency, but the only turning light I could see from behind the wheel, on the left mirror was blinking normally.
So, I stopped, got out of the car and looked around to find that neither of my front or rear left blinkers were working at all. So, here come the questions. How likely is it for BOTH lights to burn out at exactly same time? If they did, would this cause the dashboard blinker to blink at twice the usual rate? And if so, why is the mirror blinker blinks at normal rate? By the way, the right blinker is not affected by this strange affliction. Continuing, what is the best way to find out if this is
(a) capacitor problem,
(b) burned-out light(s) or
(c)(worst possible case)problem with a very expensive control board.
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Driving on the highway today and when I started to accelerate fast I noticed my check engine light blinking yellow and also noticed loosing boost I think I can only reach maybe 10-12 psi, I am stage 1 revo and also it was 95 degrees out, what it could be, thinking misfiring? so would that mean new coil pack and spark plugs?
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While my car was idling in a CVS parking lot, the VCS, Red Exclamation in a triangle, Yellow Exclamation in a circle and the check engine lights all suddenly turned on.
In reading the forums, it seems the two most likely issues would either be the inverter pump (which I had replaced as part of the recall, and I see the fluid moving in the reservoir), or possibly a bad 12v battery (which I had replaced last year with the forum recommended Optima Yellow Top).
I checked for error codes, and there were numerous ones there at first, but I think that might have been related to the old 12v battery dying (I never reset after that). I cleared the codes, and no new codes are generating.
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Solid yellow engine light. Sounds and drives fine. Is it always emissions or can it be something bad? I was going to leave sunday for a 2 month trip pulling the RV. Now stuck waiting for wednesday for dealership.
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I can't seem to find my manual, and I'm not sure if I should drive my car home after a warning light came on during my drive to work. It was a yellow exclamation point within a bracket. What this means?
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I have a 2009 model with 99980 miles. Just this morning while driving to work, the CEL came on, yet no noticeable difference in how the car drives/sounds.
Question: Is the CEL set to come on just before the car reaches 100K miles? I plan to have AutoZone read the codes today, but just wondering if this is a sw program for routine maintenance at the 100,000 mile mark.
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I was driving on a high speed highway (70 limit) doing 80 on cruise control and about 10 mins into my drive the car disengaged itself of the cruise control and the check engine came on for about 5 seconds while the car was forcefully slowing down by itself and then the check engine disappeared and I accelerated back to 80 and set it again for the rest of my hour drive. It wasn't just disengaging of cruise control it was like the engine shut off for a few seconds and then came back on.
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I recently got a 2001 Mk4 GTI from carter Volkswagen in Seattle with 113k on it last friday (it did come with the car fax). I drove it back home to Wenatchee and it ran fine and is still running fine... I think. Today as i was coming home from school the check engine light came on when i was in 3rd gear and the car just wasn't driving as smooth as it was the first day (it felt as if i was driving over really really small bumps or like something was loose and was moving around a lot).
When I would get to a red light and be in first gear the light went off but it came back on as i would shift into 3rd and stayed on when i got into 5th. It recently had its oil changed at 112,000 miles. Also when the car is just idling the tachometer is going up and down a little bit, it is idling at about 600-700 rpms. I got this car because i didn't want to have a car with problems any more (I had an 88 Isuzu Trooper before).
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Yellow brake light turned on while driving in rain, then for some reason turned off. I had read somewhere this may be an indicator of wear on brake pads. I have a 90 mi. commute round trip, I will check again if this turns on and stays on. For now, it is off. what could be causing this?
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Friday, May 13 I brought my car to the shop because the Check Engine light came on and the engine started loosing power. $540 later they had replaced both O2 sensors. A day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Monday and they replaced one of the sensors that was defective according to them. One day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Wednesday and they replaced the sensor again, telling me the brand was not compatible with my car. One day later night the light came back on. Brought the car back in Friday May 20 in the morning and they have my car since. They can't figure out whats wrong. A week before all that happed I had an oil leak and they replaced the oil filter and a seal. Could that be it?
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It's a 2010 vw jetta. Check engine light is blinking and the epc light is on the car is not paid off yet have no.
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I have a 2010 Jetta with the 2.5L 5-cylinder that recently threw on the check engine light for 2 days, then the light shut off. It began once I started the car on a coldish (~20F) morning after it had been sitting curbside for several days with the passenger side wheels sitting on about 6 inches of snow so the car was listing to the side. The car fired up immediately but ran extremely rough for about 10 seconds (the engine throbbed sharply about 2-3 times per second, which could be felt through the steering wheel & seat, accompanied by a muted clunk) before I turned it off.
During this time the CEL flashed on and off and then stayed on. I popped the hood, peered stupidly at the plastic engine cover, and restarted the car about a minute later and it ran normally, but the CEL stayed on. I drove it for two days (~50 miles) with the CEL on, but on the third day (today) the CEL did not turn on. The car has been running normally for all three days. What might have caused the rough idle/CEL and whether I can pretend it never happened since the car seems to be running normally for the third day in a row and the CEL has turned off on its own?
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Whenever I fill up my VW bug it has trouble starting .... Starts fine in the morning or if just sitting BUT when I stop and put in new gas it has trouble starting AND then when it does finally start the check engine light comes on and the code says "misfire" which I am sure is a correct code since in fact it has such a hard time starting but why? Why only after filling up with gas ? And what can I do about it ????
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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