My venture just started showing the warning light...red color has me leaving it parked in my lane way until I can figure out how serious it is. I've searched the Internet but not yet found an answer. What code means and whether I can drive or should tow it to repair shop.
View 19 Replies2004 Venture LT ... The newest problem I am having that I haven't resolved is that the fuel gauge is showing empty, low fuel light on, range on trip computer says (E). I repaired the wiring harness's on the left and right front due to ac leakage, and I also repaired the pass through behind the drivers seat. This seemed to resolve many of the problems I was having.
The thing I noticed is that before I repaired the pass through connector the gauge would work intermittently but now its totally dead. I find it unlikely that the sender and the connector would go out at the same time. Any wiring diagram of that connector, or at least which color the wires are for the sending unit and the resistance values I should get?
My is350 F sport tire pressure sensors. Well I have after market wheels with the stock tire pressure sensors, when they were first installed everything was fine, now about 2 months later now that it is a little cooler. My two back sensors are showing the warning light. it still reads the pressure and shows correct pressure but sensor warning light for both rear tires are on. Why this is? I was thinking the colder weather but why only the rear two and not the front. they go off and on but lately both have been on.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2012 Toyota Camry LE (TCLE), and recently I've noticed that the "instrument cluster" shows "MAINT REQD" warning light on for more than a few seconds when I start the car. All other warning lights do turn off while the "MAINT REQD" is still ON for a few seconds more than I usually remember. This car has about 25K miles, and I bought it with 19K miles. Should I take it to a dealer for a check up? By the way, I was waiting until the end of February to take the car for a oil change, but I am now concerned with this stupid WARNING light
View 14 RepliesThe tire pressure warning light has been on in my car for about a week. The dashboard computer says that the tire pressure in the front right tire is 17 psi, but when I use the pressure gauge, the reading is almost 40 psi. Is this something I should be concerned about? What could be causing this problem?
View 16 RepliesI have a 73 f100, I want to paint it the color of a 2004-2015 the factory grey, this color or was there a darker grey
View 2 RepliesI has just filled up my tank (91 octane...the highest we have in Phx), and while in cruise, I noticed my car started hesitating a little. About 10 miles later, EPC light comes on (and another icon lit up that I never saw before), and I lost all power. Had to pull over. Restarted the car and everything's been fine since. Happened just a day ago. My car has just under 10k on it and I just had it serviced.
View 3 RepliesWhen I started my car this morning, I noticed a warning light I've never seen. I looked it up and it doesn't even show it anywhere. My car is driving just fine. I'm calling the dealership shortly.
View 4 RepliesWhen I start my car the master warning light comes on with all the other lights and then goes off with the other lights. It does not come back on while driving and there is no warning sound with it. This just start happening. It never came on with other lights when first starting it up. I have a 2009 Prius.
View 4 RepliesI have 15 months old 2011 prius II. This morning while driving, suddenly the orange warning triangle with exclamation sign in the center went on above the READY sign on the left side of the display. Car started to beep. On the right side, the hybrid system indicator menu disappeared, the the sign appeared saying KEY DETECTED IN THE CAR.
The car was running fine. It was going on for 2-3 min, then went back to normal. A few minutes later the same thing happened again. This cycle continued 5-6 times during my 30mi drive. I tried to restart the car at the traffic light, but that did not solve anything.
My second car key is with my relative out of town. Is this just the battery in the remote dying ( I still have the original)? Could it be something with the car? I am busy at work and would prefer not to go to the dealer now if not necessary, but will if I have to.
Looking for some info about the 4wd system.
My car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 and several times i've seen the 4wd warning light start flashing. It happens right when i start up the engine, however if I turn the engine off and on again, the light will be off the next time it starts up.
I'm just trying to figure out what kind of problems this warning light would indicate, in case it stays on sometime. I like to plan ahead my car repairs and know what's going on with it. The car has like 190K + miles so it's getting there.
Also I try to avoid the dealer, so I was also wondering if a typical scan tool that most mechanics have could read the codes, or if would need to be done by Hyundai specifically.
I have a 2006 GMC Yukon XL and its transmission started slipping at just under 60K miles. My local repair shop (who I trust) suggested a transmission shop that they work with a lot. Since I tow a trailer with the vehicle it seems reasonable enough to go with their suggestion to rebuild the transmission using upgraded “heavy duty” components and install a transmission cooler, which I had them do. If you are interested in seeing what they installed, I have uploaded the repair tag at [URL] ....
Right after we got the car back we took the trailer on a trip and very soon the “Transmission Hot” warning light came on. I happened to be driving very close to the transmission shop at that time so I stopped by and they replaced the transmission fluid with synthetic fluid and said that would remedy the situation. However, very shortly after leaving the shop the warning light came on again. At the time I asked the owner of the shop if the heavy duty transmission might just run hotter than the original and he told me that it should not. Well, I brought it back in and he disassembled and reassembled the transmission and even moved the placement of the transmission cooler but, long story short, the transmission hot light still comes on.
Then he changed his tune told me that the heavy duty transmission should run hotter, contrary to what he told me originally. He went on to tell me that there was no way to adjust the temperature sensor that controls the warming light so he convinced me to install a supplemental temperature gauge for the transmission. He said that the sensor was set at the factory to trigger at 180 degrees and that the transmission was likely just running a few degrees over that. So, we made a deal that he would install the gauge and if the transmission temperature stayed below 190, which he said was a safe number, then I would pay for the gauge, but if the transmission ran over 190 degrees, he would cover the cost because that would indicate that there was probably something wrong with the transmission.
He did the work but now he has once again changed his tune and is telling me that it is no problem for the transmission temperature to run as high as 250, which is 60 degrees higher than what he told me originally. So, the question is,
1) should a heavy duty transmission with a cooler run at a higher temperature than standard transmission and
2) how hot is too hot for it to run?
I have an 06 Prius with about 170k miles. The hybrid battery was replaced shortly before I bought the car last year.
About a month ago, the red triangle warning light started coming on when I'm stopped. It usually stays on for a few seconds once I start moving again. The MFD just says "Problem" for a few seconds, then displays the icon for a headlight. Once the light clears, the MFD goes back to its normal display. Originally, it was lighting up once every other day or so, but now it's lighting two or three times per trip. I'm going to have to do something about it, but I'm trying to get my head around what to expect.
My understanding is that the red triangle could mean anything from "The door is open and you're moving. Please close it." to "Your car is about to melt down! Seek cover!". I have an Automatic OBD dongle, and it's not reading any diagnostic codes. But as I understand it, there's a whole different set of diagnostic codes that a "regular" OBD reader won't catch.
I keep seeing reference to ScanGauge devices -- do they read the second set of diagnostic codes? I talked to a mechanic in the area who will read the codes for about $100. Is the mechanic likely to be reading the codes with that tool/is that what a dealer would use to read the codes? Is the dealer likely to charge to read the codes?
Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
After about an hour of driving, the coolant temperature light on my 2010 GTI started blinking. The gauge never showed a temperature higher than the usual 190, including traffic and idling. Having reached my destination, I shut the car off and then back on, happy to see no warning lights at all. One dinner and some three hours later, I started back for home. 20 minutes into the drive, the car sounded three tones and the blinking light came on again.
Like before, the car drove without incident for the rest of the drive, and the light was no longer present once the car had been shut off and then on again. The owner's manual said that the coolant level might be too low, or the temperature too high, but neither of these seem to be the case. The car is equipped with GIAC stage I software and an Audi S3 intercooler.
The ESC warning light has started coming on intermittently on my 06 GLS. Stays solid, not blinking. Turning the car off and starting again resets it but never for long.
The brake light switch was already replaced once at 36K miles. It's now at about 84,500. Do these things have a history of going bad multiple times?
For what it's worth, my little ELM327 ODB II plug-in gadget shows no faults but it may not be able to see the right data. I'm taking it back to the dealer in the morning, where they probably won't fix it and probably will break something else.
Having problems with the leather seats. Bumps and dimples started showing up on my seats. Brought it to the dealership and scheduled an inspection with the toyota warranty.
View 8 RepliesThe warning light on the dash of my '96 ranger 4.0, auto with 233k miles started coming on. The only thing I have done recently was to replace my battery. Just trying to figure it out.
View 7 RepliesI am trying to change the color of the light on my dash board and center console from the standard orange to a light blue color. I've tried searching the internet looking for any advice but I haven't come across anything for a 2009 Toyota corolla. I understand that some cars need to have the light bulbs soldered and some can you can change out a colored film. Which of these options applies to my car? If it's the light bulb change then what size and how many. Also, how to take out the instrumental cluster.
View 6 RepliesMy car (2006 Prius with 250k miles) was operating normally all day today. Still getting very good mileage around 52 mpg on average. Then abruptly, the big red triangle and few other yellow warning lights (check engine, VSC, and an indicator with exclamation mark in the middle) showed up while the car was moving around 20 mph.
Now, the car does not have much power and it was very difficult to speed up or going uphill. Turned the engine off and then back on. The symptoms still persist. The battery indicator was at only 1 bar. Let the engine run for a while and the battery indicator went to 3 or 4 bars. Turned the car off and then back on, the battery indicator went back to 1 bar immediately. Also the battery fan was running at high speed, even through I have just started driving for about 5 minutes.
Will do the following tomorrow:
(1) check 12v battery,
(2) use Torque SW to see if HV battery has proper values, and
(3) read diagnostic codes.
I started my Touareg this morning in 20 degree weather and let it warm up. When I came back to drive away, I noticed on the center dash display an orange colored warning showing the 4 wheels, and also the selector for the 4 wheel drive selector knob was flashing. It drove fine. I parked it and turned the car off and removed the key and opened and closed the door. Then I opened and closed the door again and restarted it, and everything was fine--no warning sign and no flashing.
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