Vanagon - Volkswagen :: 1991 - Replacing The Starter?
Dec 23, 2011
1991 Vanagon GL-Ok, first off my gas gauge was inoperable so we traced it down to the sending unit. Disconnected the battery, drained the tank, dropped the tank and replaced the sending unit and all the fuel lines, seals, etc. In the meantime we also replaced the starter while it was up. Gassed her up, tried to start it. Nothing. Lifted it up again, checked the starter unit to see if it was getting a current, no current. Went to the fuse box, tested the fuses, all is good. Went to the battery and tested it, it was producing a current. Thought we might have moved, hit, loosen something when putting the gas tank back in so we lowered the tank to see if there was anything loose, disconnected, etc. Nothing. Reinstalled the tank. Went to the engine compartment and tested the alternator, no juice. Damn. Traced the wiring from the battery to the engine and test the battery cable, no juice in the harness by the gas tank. Went to the front of the van, took out the drivers headlight and tested the lines there. There is a long green object like a capacitor or something with three wired running to it, tested it no juice flowing through it. Tested a connection before the long green object and there is juice there. Is it the long green thing? Do I need to call in the Witches of Warwick to de-demonize it?
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I have a 1991 toyota celica st and I recently broke some belts. I think I broke 2 belts. Any diagram of the belts and pulleys because I don't know where to loosen the pulleys to replace the belts. What each belt powers?
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I have a 91 RS 3.1 with a 5 speed that is not starting.
The problem started with the key not engaging the starter at all, a friend who is much better at electrical and we found the security relay switch behind the kick panel is not engaging on it's own. we manually engaged the switch and now the key will spin the starter but the engine is not firing up only spinning.
does the security relay switch control anything other than the starter engaging.
There is gas in the car. using a screwdriver and spark plug wire we have verified that we are getting spark.
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After replacing the fuel filter, O2 sensor, and checking plugs and wires and the rotor, my 91 toyota corolla is still sputtering and its driving me nuts.
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160K miles. Sometimes starter doesn't seem to engage with the engine and the engine won't start unless i put it in neutral and floor the gas pedal. Then it shakes, rattles, sputters and smokes comes out but it starts like the car in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (for the oldsters here). Happens about every third start. Once i had a 67 Plymouth where every once in a while i would have to hold the butterfly open (with a stick) on the carburetor. I have to take it and get it fixed. So odd that it is not every start. Happening with more frequency.
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I tried to jump my phaeton and it would click but not completely turn over and i absolutely cant get it to start. the radio, lights, windows, and things of that nature are still working. So i need to know how to replace the battery i.e. (disconnecting it and can i replace it with a battery from an auto store?) If not, how much should i expect to spend and what else could it possibly be??
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I have a 2002 VW Beetle with a failing transmission at fewer than 60,000 miles, apparently one of the ones made in Mexico. VW has already replaced the catalytic converter. There is a lot of online complaining about the transmission issue and about the catalytic converter. The car is in otherwise good condition or seems to be. Would it be a good or bad investment to replace the transmission for about $2400?
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I have a 91 park ave it wont start all the lights come on the dash . If I run jumper to starter it turns wont stay running unless I pour gas in line. appears to not be getting power to starter and fuel system. What controls both of these?
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91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
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Neighbor bought a 91 tracker. We put a new battery and alternator in it. We have to jump the vehicle to get it to start. While running with the light on, the lights are extremely dim. Sometimes the vehicle will start again, but most times it won't. What I mean by it won't start is nothing happens when you turn the key. No clicking starter does not engage. Sometime the car will not stay running with out charger attached. Then again sometimes everything is fine.
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I recently replaced my gas tank in my Sundance, it was getting very rusty around the sending unit area and was starting to leak. Everything is back together and it is running well with no leaks. The new problem that it has, when the car is running, the gas gauge shows less than empty, even though it has a considerable amount of gas in it. When I shut the car off, the gas gauge slowly moves up to where it normally would be when it would be running. Did I somehow mess up the ground or did I cross something? This is my daily beater car and need a working gauge.
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I have a 1968 Beetle that has been sitting for a long time, after working through a list of items for the restart I put a new battery in and turned it over. Starter works fine and turns engine over but when I turn the key off starter will not stop until I disconnect the battery, When I reconnect battery everything is fine again until I try to start and starter keeps going until I disconnect battery again.
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I've replaced the started the starter several times now and the car will start once then just click. I found that if I disconnect and reconnect the battery cable it'll start one time and then just click. So something seems to be getting reset when the battery is disconnected.
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Last week the coil went out. The housing had several cracks, and the heavy oil had filled the distributor cap. So the coil, rotor, and distributor cap were replaced. About 4 days later, all my engine would do was make a grating sound when I turned the key. My boyfriend said that it sounded like my starter had gone. It wouldn't start with hitting it or anything. So, he and I, while trying to save some money because we're both on disability, replaced the starter. Now, when I turn the key, nothing happens! We're pretty sure the battery is dead. We have it on a trickle charge right now. But a funny thing happened, all of a sudden the open door alarm started going off! The door had been open for several minutes when it started. So we think that it may be a short. The starter relay, when you look at it, has a spot of corrosion on the indicator. Tomorrow we're going to try cleaning them.
1993 Toyota Camry DX with 170,000 miles ....
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I may have to replace the starter on my truck. Have heard it is difficult especially on the top bolt. Any stickys/bulletins on how to do this.
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I recently attempted to change out the clutch on my bug for the first time. All went well right up until I tried to start it. The starter kicks over, all the electrical works, but for some reason she's not firing. Upon removing the spark plug i found out there is no spark. The plug cables and plugs themselves are brand new, so I'm guessing that's not it.
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I have a 1991 Silverado K1500 with a 700R4. The truck has 142k on the engine and trans. It shifts into reverse, 1st, and 2nd fine but the engine just revs and doesn't catch 3rd.
I don't know a terrific amount about transmissions but I've pulled a few 700R4's out of Camaro's in the past.
I've been looking around on message boards and I'm guessing the 3-4 clutch pack is bad. I found another used 700R4 4x4 trans that I could swap in but it doesn't look terribly fun.
I've read in another post that it could be a stripped govenor gear or stuck governor weights? Where it is, what to check?
I'm going to drop the pan tomorrow to check for metal or clutches laying around. If I don't find anything, could the 3-4 clutch pack still be the problem?
What else might be causing this problem that I should check before pulling the tranny?
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W e got the car fixed last year. It was a 8 pin connector near the camshaft sensor called the Engine Wiring Connector.
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I have a 1991 Volvo 240 Base with an Automatic Transmission. Just yesterday, I was hopping onto the highway, when all of a sudden, my car would not go any faster than 40 to 45 MPH. It has been running fine up to that point. I ended up just taking side streets, where it ran fine. I have not taken it on the highway after that.
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i have a 91 celica 4AFE 1.6L 5 speed & the cooling fan won't come on. we checked, the fan does work, we changed the fan relay & that's not the problem. what should i do now?
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The title says a lot. I have a 1997 Saturn SL1 that has progressively been stalling more and more often. It doesn't stutter and then stall, it goes from robust engine power to nil. It's done it while at speed and while at idle, though most often at idle. ...related? I do burn oil.
I cleaned the throttle body and EGR to the best of my abilities (full removal. the throttle body is immaculate, the egr...meh) This cleared out a check engine light that recently came on, and renewed some life in the engine when it's not dead at the side (or middle) of the road.
I'm thinking fuel filter? Would this make sense? Anything else I'd be wise to consider?
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