Van - Chevrolet :: 1994 - Gauges Drop Slightly When Turn On Anything Electrical
Dec 10, 2013
I travel and often live in a 94 chevy g20 3/4 ton van. Today I started it up and the electrical was flipping out, I got to the end of the road and I smelled electrical smoke and the van died.
I opened up the hood and the piece of wood that I usually wedge between the battery terminals and the metal frame of the van (the battery is very poorly placed and slides around) had slid out of place and the positive terminal had melted a bit and fused to the frame.
After I got it unstuck, I got a jump and it started right back up fine, but now when I turn on anything electrical my gauges drop slightly for a moment and my gear wont shift from low gear (it's an automatic transmission). This definitely won't do...
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
Okay, my 1986 f150 with a 351w (non-feedback carbed) Has no lights on the cluster, and none of the gauges work (haven't tested the speedo yet, truck is not registered yet).
I also have a minor issue with the turn signals... Fronts work, no rears. The left turn indicator light on the dash does not come on but the right turn one does. All my "primary lights" (markers, tail, headlights) work fine. I have not yet tested the brake lights.
Fuses all look good, truck did have some roof leaks. I've done some research, does this sound like the dreaded voltage regulator issue for the gauges?
My assumption for the left turn indicator light is that there is a replaceable bulb in the dash (probably blown), is that right? Rear signals might be wiring (PO installed his own trailer wiring) or bulbs? haven't gotten that far into it yet...
View 8 Replies
Long story short, my truck's front turn signals and rear turn signals/tail lights won't work. I am thinking that the relay is burnt. Whenever I look in the manual I can't seem to find the location for this relay. Is is built into the flasher?
Also, I am just assuming because the rear turn signals and tail lights are the same bulb that fixing this should clear up both problems. Am I right in thinking that?
I have already checked all of the fuses. Also, the Hazards don't work either.
View 5 Replies
First off my driver side brake light with stop working. I took it apart to try and find the short. In the process I shorted out all my running lights tail lights and brake lights and turn signals I think also. While I was looking for the short, turn signal wire from my tail light touched the frame and grounded out and that's when all the lights died . My tail lights are some cheap trailer lights without reverse lights. I pulled headlight switch from another Ford truck I have. On the harness connector that connects to the switch which wires should read what when I test with a voltmeter?I checked the fuses in the power distribution box under the hood and they were good. Truck has a flat bed so I don't know if that matters with the wiring, I suspect it's different then a normal bed truck. Wiring on the bed is old, maybe from 94. I am unexperienced with electrical.
View 3 Replies
My 2000 Dodge Grand caravan loses its gauges every so often. engine light comes on as well as ABS...
View 2 Replies
The truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
View 10 Replies
I have checked the fuses for the Hazard and the Turn Signals. Both look fine. I tried replacing the turn signal flasher (which was a task in itself). After all of this it is still not working. What else could it be? Simple short?
View 2 Replies
When idle, and especially when cold, my R engine tends to do some popping, I can see the RPM drop slightly when this happens and can also hear and feel it in the car and from the engine and exhaust. This only happens when idle, I have no other issues, no drop in performance and no CEL.
It actually has done this for a while now but barely noticeable. Now since 2 weeks it has gone worse to the level of being annoying. What this may be ? Injectors maybe ?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.
View 4 Replies
2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser. While driving, it seems at random, all gauges drop and stop working, no gas getting to the car, power loss. Sometimes lasts a split second, sometimes lasts up to 30 seconds. The car will even stall here and there, but usually not. Usually, power gets restored. But sometimes the car won't even start for an extended period of time. Of course, when the mechanic takes it for a ride it does nothing wrong.
View 2 Replies
While driving at any speed my temp gauge and oil pressure gauge spike well above "H" and stay there. The red battery light sometimes flickers too. The Battery gauge is low. I replaced the terminal to then negative battery cable because It was loose. I have also replaces the alternator. I had the battery checked and it was good, it just at 45% charge. That's why I replaced the alternator. After I did that, It seemed to have fixed the issue. But after 3 days, it has come back again. Now this morning on the way to work, driving down the freeway, my speedometer jumped to 85 MPH and there was a squealing like noise coming from the engine. I am not sure if the two are related issues.
View 10 Replies
All my guages move (needle moves to the right) once I turn on my head lights. Indicating higher egine temp and higer oil pressure. What cause be causing this?
View 4 Replies
My radio, all gauges and windows aren't working. Fuse 17 did not seem blown but I changed it anyway and still no luck.
View 2 Replies
My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
View 14 Replies
After changing my radiator support, my fuel and temperature gauges don't work. I looked to see if everything was plugged in and I don't see anything unplugged. I do know the older trucks used the V-R regulators, but I don't know about this model.
View 2 Replies
I recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2011 Ford F150 FX4, And for a while now i have been having a issue with the gauge cluster.
while driving once in a while all of the gauge cluster turns off then back on within a couple of second. all the lights for the traction control, air bag, engine.... turn on and then turn off just like when you start the truck.
The issue only last for a couple of seconds. And it can go for a day before doing it. Brought it to the Ford dealership and they said unless the gauges are completely off there is nothing to go on by. Also once in awhile the check advancetrac comes on and will be off next time i start the truck. Same thing dealer said there was no codes and nothing then can do.
I checked all the connection at the fuse box, gauge cluster. and no issues. had the truck running and try wiggling all of the connectors, in the truck one by one with no success in duplicating the issue.
Also notice that once in awhile my signal light will flas extremely slow when having the blinker on.
View 3 Replies
OK, I just got done replacing the alternator on the wife's 05 escape 3.0 V6, after it started on fire. The 3 wire plug was melted onto the alternator, so I had to replace the pigtail. I'm 99.9% sure that I got the wires in the right place. But now, after putting it all back together, it idles sporadically, when I drive it seems almost like it's trying to start out in 2nd gear, and shifts oddly. And there are no dash lights or gauges. Headlights work fine. And everything worked normally before I took it apart.
View 1 Replies
Today I was driving to my moms house. I had been on the road for about 2.5 hours. My ABS light came on, I didn't think anything about just figured a sensor was dirty or bad. About 30 min later the radio shut off then all the gauges bottomed out and the truck lost all power. I was able to coast/idle off the road. I called a local parts place and they had a replacement alternator for me. While I was at it I also replaced the battery. I started the truck up and hit the road again. I drove another 45min with no issues.
Does this sound right or am I missing something else?
View 1 Replies
While driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
View 9 Replies
We have a 1999 F-350 V10 super duty. The alt was over charging and the gauges stopped working. Replacing the alt, the guages still don't work, and the new thing is the charge light and selt belt light comes on. The fuses 29 (5amp)and 30(30Amp) which are supposed to be key on hot only are hot at the same time. With these on, it causes a drain killing the battery. Also if the truck is started, the lights go out, but when you try to turn the vehicle off, it stays running, one with the battery disconnected. The only way to shut it down is pull the fuse box power fuse, 50(amp)Some one had been in the dash before we got this vehicle and busted, burned out or removed the check engine light. I can read codes and their vehicle runs fair and does operate. Could this be a dash board? Also this problem appears when the truck is sitting, and the key removed nothing on. No fuses are blown either.
View 3 Replies
