Van - Chevrolet :: 1993 G20 Cranks But Won't Start At All?
Nov 5, 2012
I have a 1993 Chevy G20 van that was starting intermittently and now won't start at all. It cranks but doesn't start. On one of the occasions that I actually got it started I went to have the battery and alternator tested and was told that the alternator was good but the battery was low.
I then bought a battery charger and attempted to charge it. It has not started since. It also will not jump. I have tried to listen for the fuel pump and I don't hear anything...of course that could be because I don't know what to listen for.
So my question is: what more should I check before I give up and get it towed? I just want to be sure that I'm not spending all that money for a tow when it was something easy like a relay or a battery issue. I have some mechanical knowledge but no where to apply it (i.e.: my vehicle is outdoors and I don't have a lot of tools or a decent jack).
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A friend is stumped by a problem with his truck, so I thought I might get some insight here. I haven't actually seen the truck, all that follows is from what he described, I'm just the messenger here.
The truck had been running fine on a used engine installed about six months ago. Then he ran it out of gas, it hasn't run properly since. It cranks fine, but won't start. He says it WILL start when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body, but only while the starting fluid is supplied. He also says he disconnected the fuel line somewhere near the engine, cranked the engine, and got good fuel supply (but no fuel pressure gauge reading). He's done some logical things: new fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. No luck. Figuring that he'd sucked something ugly into the injectors, he decided to replace those with no change (yes, I cautioned him about throwing expensive parts at it with no clear reason).
He reasons that he must be getting spark based on the engine running with starter fluid, and there must be fuel based on his test with the open fuel line, so he thinks it's an electronic problem, presumably the signal to the injectors. This is out of my league...and my friend is a carpenter, not a mechanic. If he could get a scanner would this kind of problem register a code?
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93 honda accord cranks but wont start... I replaced the coil,cap and rotor and i still have spark...
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My 93 honda accord cranks but wont start it has fuel and fire from the coil but not to the plugs, had new distbuter 1 year ago could my computer be bad...
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I have a 1983 Chevrolet C10 Silverado that I am slowly restoring. I recently had to change nylon timing gear and chain. It ran ok but now will only crank but not start. I am getting gas to the carb and I tried a couple of shots of starting fluid. It didn't try to start at all. I pulled some of the plug wires and I am getting spark. The plug wires look good. I am starting to get a little stumped.
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I have a 2002 trailblazer that will start fine in the morning and after it sits for an hour or two, but once i start it and run it for over ten minutes and i shut it off when i try to re-start it, it will crank but won't start. the dealer cleaned the throttle body and injectors, check the fuel pump for presure and it was fine,and they got no error codes?????? I've read that in can be the ignition switch??
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My 2002 Tahoe cranks over fine (new battery), but, will not start. I have checked the fuel pump relay and have control power to energize the relay, but. no switched power from ECM to change relay state. Jumped rely 30/87 and pump runs. No DTC's. Gauge on instrument panel reads no fuel. Scanner shows 56% level. Tried to use my Snapon MT2500 to switch relay state and received error message "generic device control limit exceeded" ECM?
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Engine cranks but will not start, it kicks back after cranking over for a couple of times i have replaced the crank sensor it has done this once before it kicked back hard enough to knock a tooth off of the flywheel after replacing flywheel and starter it started fine for three months then it kicked back hard enough to break a starter mounting bolt. i replaced bolt had starter checked and replaced again?
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I have a 2001 chevy Astro 2 wd. After rebuilding the motor it cranks has a spark and is getting fuel but won't start. Has a new starter new battery new coil crankshaft position sensor new distributor, cap and rotor plugs and wires but does not start...
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1994 Caprice Classic (350 cid LT1)... Engine cranks very slowly, almost doesn't start, sometimes starter disengages/re-engages. 1year ago mechanic checked batty, alternator and starter, all ok. I had starter replaced as it seemed the most likely cause. Eventually got better but now is worse again. Also notice a lot of movement on the dash voltmeter needle, sometimes high, sometimes low, turn signal moves the needle. Ive spent hundreds of dollars on troubleshooting and the new starter. What could be causing this?
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I have a 93 tercel that has developed a weird engine problem. It starts fine and will drive fine for about half hour. If u stop after half hour and shut engine off and 5 minutes later try to restart and it will crank over for at least 10 seconds before it restarts. After it is running again it seems to have a serious stutter and doesnt want to idle. When u shift into drive it stalls and you have to crank engine for another 10 or more seconds before it will start again, and when it does start it still stuttering and wanting to stall. If you keep foot on brake and other foot on gas it can be driven and once the car is moving over 10 mph it runs fine. The wires have been changed and the rotor and the cap and also timing belt replaced. Plugs also were pulled and inspected. Showed sighns of wear but all were nice tan color and looked good.
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Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
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I drive a 1993 Chevrolet 1500 v6, 2wd. I have changed every part I can think of related to the fuel system. When I try to accelerate, the engine hesitates, it gets louder, and my truck will jerk. Sometimes, however, it is responsive. Often times, it will be responsive for a few minutes and start to decelerate.
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My wife's '93 Chevy Lumina has a strange habit of not starting unless I charge the battery overnight. The lights don't dim when I turn the key which would normally tell me that the battery and connections are fine, but the solenoid won't energize. If I trickle charge the battery overnight it will start fine. Now this generally happens after the car has been sitting for an extended period of time. Computer maybe?
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My 1993 Sundance with automatic transmission abruptly jammed. It won't go into park but will go into the other gears including reverse. Since the only way to stop and "park" the vehicle is to shift into neutral, the key is now permanently stuck in the ignition. What did I do or what happened?!!
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I have 93 cavalier 2.2l will start up and run for 5 or 10 min then start sputtering and then will stop running acts like it has bad gas, but once it does this it will not start for rest of the day will start next morning. I have seen liquid coming out of tail pipe.
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I have a weird problem with the A/C on my 93 S10. It will start blowing warm air but if I accelerate real hard it will start blowing cold again.
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i have a 1993 3/4 ton pickup 5.7 and it just started to shift rough it has to get up to 4000 rpm to shift from 1-2 and 2-3 someone told me to change the filter another person told me to check the vacume line i went under truck and found a vent tube out the side not sure what to do
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Checked but could find much on the throttle body. I have a 93 Chev 1500 2wd 5.7 320000km when I drive on highway, it drives along good when I get to slower speeds is seems to studder. I have to push gas pedal to push it threw. I bought some throttle body cleaner and I noticed that when I sprayed around the bottom of throttle body. It almost stalls. Could this be the reason why I am getting the studder and is that the indication that I should replace the base of throttle body gasket ? I replaced the plugs and fuel filter cleaned iac motor ....
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