The A/C went out on this 2000 Mercedes drivers side first, and then two weeks later on the passenger side. This seems strange to me. The system has pressure and won't allow any more freon to be added. What is going on? A friend suggested that it could be the expander valve.
View 1 RepliesWe have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Focus SE with DOHC that is losing power and sputtering when it gets hot after driving for 30 min or more. If I shut the car off and right back on going down the highway it will be fine for 5-10 min and then start sputtering again. If the car is not hot this does not happen and I have a new fuel filter and coil pack as those are the two main things that I could think of. I have seen intake valve seat and fuel pump as the two most common fixes with similar circumstances.
View 7 Replies2000 Mercedes A-class, currently 190 Km, purchased 7 years ago with 90Km, all maintenance on time, as recommended.
If the car sits a day, no problem. If it sits a few days, then when releasing the brake and trying to move, the car lurches a bit. The longer it sits, the worse it seems.
Is this the back drums, as the dealer tells us, or is something else wrong?
Over the last 2 to 3 weeks I have been noticing a bit of a shake at 55mph and higher. If I slow down, it becomes less and less noticeable. Well, last night, that little shimmy got serious. My check engine light came on (solid, not blinking) and it was shaking so hard, I pulled off the roadway. When I put it in N and then into P, it continued to shake violently. so, I of course turned off the engine. I waited a few minutes, restarted the car and the CEL remains lit, but the shaking is completely gone. I have 164k miles.
Since I purchased it, various electrical options have gone funky, lights mysteriously going out, rear defog and wiper gone, blinkers, central locking , mirrors won't adjust, etc. I changed every fuse in the car one by one until all elements were functioning again. The central locking, fob locking and rear defog and wiper never returned. I have already replaced the battery, Crank Position Sensor and alternator. The harmonic balancer is tight. From my research on the MB forums, I am looking at :
1) Camshaft position sensor?
2) new plugs? or the
3) MAT connection?
My 2000 Mercedes C230 Kompressor's been riding rough, particularly at low speeds and when idling. I took it in to see if engine mounts needed replacement, and yes they do, but my mechanic also found that I've blown or cracked the head gasket. Coolant has solidified around the gasket, keeping it from leaking now, but he indicated that with the next rain, that solidified coolant would be washed away and the car wouldn't be able to hold coolant. The car has 160,000 miles, recent brakes and tune up (should he have seen the gasket problem at tune up???).
View 9 RepliesMercedes Benz 2000 C230 Compressor has fuel problem. Replaced fuel pump pressure checks were normal. Scan read fuel trim malfunction cylinder misfire detected...Where do I go from here?
View 2 RepliesValves are stuck, no compression! Head needs to be pulled apart according to mechanic...
View 3 RepliesLooking for info on reseating the valves on a 2004 camry four cylinder. My car has 95000 miles on it right now and you can hear the valves tapping I guess making noise .
View 14 RepliesI've tried searching, While I can find instructions for changing these valves on other cars, I can't find it for the SC 430.
Is there a link here for how to do that? I think my filters are probably clogged (165,000 miles) but I can't figure out where they are.
I'm thinking it may be why my VSC light is on as well. Should I try Seafoam in the crankcase first?
Sometimes when I start my 2010 camry with the 2.5L, it makes a noise on the top end like there's no oil and the valves are very loud and a second or 2 later it goes away, is this normal....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 V8 with 27k I have noticed lately that the valve noise seems awfully loud. I am sure this can't be normal. I am going to take it to ;the dealer to let them listen. I can hear them now telling me that is normal.
View 24 RepliesI have a 2013 Elantra GT and I noticed the other days, couple of days, where we had really cold mornings when I started my car I could hear the valves or lifters tick ticking away. Now I know that when its cold it takes a few minutes for the thick oil to warm up but I was surprised at the noise. The car has about 200km and my wife's 2010 Elantra with about 40, 000 km doesn't make any.
View 9 RepliesVolvo850 turbo year94 I'm a lot like I do most of the repairs. But now I have a problem with the ABS code 444 No power supply to valves in hydraulic unit.
View 5 RepliesMy car has been sitting for almost 2 years now so I decided to start it once again after fixing warped turbo and manifold flanges. Immediately after starting it we noticed a misfire on cyl 3. checked plugs, coils injector harness and all looked good. Then we realized that I lost compression on the back 3 cylinders, I did a wet compression test and nothing changed (worst being cyl 3 at 80 psi), engine warm and cold tests. Then a friend and I did a leak down test and it seems like the intake valves are leaking and the rings are good.
Before I remove the head and have tons of work done to it I wanted to check a little further so I started tearing the short runner intake manifold out and valve cover. with the valve cover out, the springs and cams etc looks all in good shape. Then the intake runners were covered with a lot of oil which is weird because I dont have my crank case vent recirculated to the intake and my turbo seals are not leaking (no oil on the inter-cooler piping), and it is not just fuel in there.
Now if my valves are leaking air out the combustion chamber could they also be leaking from the valve stem guides? I didn't notice excessive oil being burnt through the exhaust which is normal when that happens on cold starts. So I am confused on where the oil is coming from or how it is being pushed to the intake runners on the head and manifold.
I have had a bit of blow by, normal on my case, because when the low compression pistons were installed the rings were gaped a little more to account for high heat at high boost pressure.
My 99 CR-V has lost compression in cyl #3 and now #4, 40 and 30psi respectively. Still runs, about 10mpg or less local, 14 highway. No HP, forget fifth gear unless I'm drafting someone downhill on the highway. I've got 228k on this otherwise nice vehicle. CEL reading misfire codes galore. Anyhow, should I trust one of these outfits that will send me a rebuilt head with my returning the core or should I pay some local a bunch more for the rebuild?
View 17 RepliesRecently I had my oil changed (do it every 3500 miles) . Normally I do not drive many miles per day, but about 5 days after the change I noticed my valves making a noise... I thought it was a stuck lifter....put in some mystery oil...all was fine until I again noticed the clacking lifter after driving 15-20 miles highway....I then checked my receipt from the oil change and it showed they installed .5w30 not the 10w30or even 5w30 weight oil recommended. I took my jeep to another place and had the oil changed again with 10w30 oil and all is fine now...my question is... I drove with the .5w30 oil for about 6 weeks and 800 miles... did this potentially damage my engine?
View 14 RepliesHave 2010 Accent. Like it. BUT tire valves awkward to reach, so I put extensions to use tire gage and air pump more conveniently. When I went to take metal cover off, the whole valve broke in my hand. Cost $100.00 because sensor had to be replaced as well. Dealer would not cover cost because I had used aftermarket equipment instead of OE plastic valve cover and metal cover had corroded in place. E-mailed factory rep, got same answer.
Also, when reaching across passenger seat to wind down window, crank came off in my hand. Shoved it back on, but just recently noticed there is a bezel in door tray where it landed. Can't for life of me see where it should go.
Exactly where to look to locate my evaporative purge control valve on my 1999 VW GTI AEG 2.0 non turbo engine?
View 11 RepliesMy camshafts got moved while replacing tb & wp.v6. Can I get TDC bringing #1 valves closed & #4 valves open & then bring crankshaft the TDC mark? Interference engine, valves not damaged!!!
View 7 RepliesI have a 02 celica gt with 120,000 miles and when the engine is on I hear a ticking noise by the valves, is it normal...
View 1 Replies