Transmissions :: Rattle Start After Driving Isuzu Truck For 4 Or 5 Miles
Apr 17, 2012
About two months ago I noticed a transmission-y rattle coming from my 1982 Isuzu P'up (diesel). The rattle wouldn't start right away, you had to drive the truck for 4 or 5 miles before it would kick in. And it wasn't always there, it would sort of go away and come back intermittently, although this pattern repeated every time I drove the car. The noise was present in every gear, including 4th.
I took it to a transmission guy, who claimed to have heard it coming from the engine, not the transmission, while it was up on the lift. Later I took it to another mechanic, who insisted it was in fact the transmission, and that the transmission guy didnt know what he was talking about.
Stuck in a contradictory limbo, I drove the car around for a few days, trying to make notes on the problem.
And then the car had an electrical problem, which kept me from driving it for about 2 weeks. The guy who did the electrical doesn't speak english very well, but as I understand it he fixed something that recharges the glow plugs? Or recharges the battery? Not sure.
But here's the thing: The noise is gone. I've been driving the car for two weeks now, taken a longish (80 miles round trip) freeway drive and I keep waiting for it to come back. But no noise! So what's going on??? Where did my noise go?
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Mt truck will suddenly die while going down the road. I know it has a oil sensor and wont start or run with oil is low,but recently it just dies in the middle of the road or won't start after a drive of a few miles. After sitting for a few minutes it will usually start. This was happening a couple of times a day until this week when we have had ice and snow, we have been in four wheel drive for four days and it hasn't died or failed to start even once. Whats up with that ?
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I've been working with a friend who has a problem with his 96 Isuzu Hombre 2.2L (same as S10). Runs fine, then intermittently cuts off. He pulls to the side of the road, and tries to start it. It cranks but won't fire. He waits about 10 minutes or so, then he starts it up just fine. No computer codes.
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I have a '98 Civic Dx with 217,000+ miles on it. Last year I had the water pump and timing belt replaced and beginning in February I noticed my antifreeze was disappearing but couldn't find any leaks. One mechanic said it was the water pump, so I had it redone under warranty. The antifreeze is still disappearing and now my mechanic tells me it's the radiator. (Don't you think he would have said that the first time?) It seems that the transmission is starting to go (see below) so I'm wondering if it's worth replacing the radiator or trying to patch any leaks I can find. I've heard such mixed reviews on patching radiator leaks and this mechanic won't do it. The part is cheap and I can probably replace or repair it myself. So, repair or replace?
I've had a few incidents of my car shuddering after I start driving and losing power around the first turn. Sometimes the shudder is worse if I've turned the car on, idled for a few moments and then started driving. The shudder was similar to one time when I had a bad spark plug wire, so thinking it was that I gave my car a tune up-- new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. But two mornings ago it nearly stalled as I was taking the first turn off my street.
Then yesterday morning it nearly stalled after I backed out of my parking space and began driving (I'd sat for a few moments with the car idling before backing out). For a while I've felt like it wasn't really getting full power around the first turn. I don't know how to describe it except that pushing on the accelerator didn't really do anything until the car had completed the turn and straightened out. I haven't had any problems throughout the rest of the day-- it drives just fine. It's only when it's been sitting at least overnight.
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I've been trying to diagnose a problem i've been having. Every now and then after driving for about 30 miles, my car won't start for about five to ten minutes. I've had no problems while driving.
- The engine cranks, but doesn't turn over
- I can hear the fuel pump engage when i turn the ignition
- My crank sensor was replaced last summer, my SRS relay is good, as is my fuel injector relay
- Spark plugs and distributor cap are new
- It's a Regina fuel injection
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I stuck a probe thermometer into the center vent, and after about 10 minutes the air was blowing at 40 degrees F. The compressor was spinning, and low pressure was 40 and high pressure was 225. I ran it like this for about 15 minutes, no problems. Then I wedged the throttle with a pencil and that pushed the RPMs up to a hair over 2000. Then the compressor started shutting off, then on, but not in any kind of rhythm that I could detect. The low pressure would drop to 23, the high pressure would jump up to 400; then high pressure would plummet to around 220.
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My wife was driving through the intersection when the truck died... Tried to start it again but no go, I had it towed home, and stared to troubleshoot.
I have a Scan gauge2 and these were the readings: FMP: 47.5, IPR: 84.71, SYC: 1, ICP: 0
I pulled the IPR (that was only a year old) and the screen was perfect. I had 11.5v at the plug for the IPR, and on the Ohms scale I was reading 1.8Mohms.
I went to the dealer and got a new IPR, and still no start. and the only change in the reading on the scan gauge was the ICP is now reading 56. The gauge on the dash is reading normal oil pressure, but I haven't checked actual Low-end oil pressure.
Last month I replace the HPOP, and 1 faulty injector. Now I thinking wire loom, defective new IPR from the dealership or the new HPOP has failed.
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I have cleaned the fuel injectors, put in new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. What else I can do. The only time it starts easily is when it's very hot. If I leave it off for just 5 minutes, it will start up quickly. And a few times, when it is dead cold it will start on the first turn. All other times I have to crank it for what seems like minutes. I'm killing batteries and starters on a regular basis.
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During our last ice storm during a nice long skid down an icy hit, I reverted suddenly back to my days one decade ago of driving a stick-shift in the ice and tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic). I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light came on. I took it into the garage and they couldn't find any engine issues. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. Sometimes it sounds like the gears aren't shifting automatically as I drive (rpms run high.) Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
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