This problem started at the beginning of this winter. So I started to idle for 2 mins and the car was shifting without an issue.
However, now it is completely stuck and wont shift to 3rd gear even if I drive for 15 mins at 60mph.
My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 bmw 528i (e39) with 200k on it. It runs and drives like a dream except for one little thing.... when shifting into the next gear at around 25mph, if I let off the gas just before it shifts it clunks as it shifts into the next gear. However, if I accelerate through the gear change it is smooth as can be and has no problems through the gears.
Secondly and I believe unrelated, I am also looking for the location of a transmission temperature sensor... I have heard they tend to fail and can cause issues with shifting until the car is up to running temp. I experienced an issues with it once not wanting to shift out of 1st gear until it warmed but that was before a filter and fluid change. Since that, I haven't any issues, but I want to be prepared just in case with one on hand ready to go in.
It is a 2001 1.8T Golf, automatic. 75000 miles on it, mostly highway. I returned from my recent road trip, halfway across the country, which involved a couple of snow storms but otherwise everything ran smoothly.The day after I got back, I was going to dinner and the car wouldn't shift up out of 1st gear... unless I gunned it to almost 40 mph. Next time I started it, the check engine light turned on. I have driven it 3 miles, twice, since then and the problem remains. What the problem might be, if I'll need to replace transmission or just some fluid, or get a new car?
View 1 RepliesI've been have been having a problem with my car. It initially started at Christmas when I went up to MI for a visit. It would have problems shifting into gear after reversing. At first I just thought it was because it wasn't used to the really cold weather as we live in AL.When I returned it still did it, I would try the other gears available on the auto transmission and it still seemed to have a problem shifting from 1 to 2. It would slow down and you could rev the engine and it still would not shift.
All of a sudden it would kick and shift and you could drive. This only happened the first time you drove it that day. It would also kick very slightly when you went below 30mph. It doesn't do that anymore.I went for another visit up north and while I was there it started kicking whenever I was over 60mph. When i got back to AL I took it into the dealership as the check engine light came on. It now kicks all the time regardless of speed, though does it less at lower speeds, but if there is exertion on the engine like a hill, it kicks, kicks, kicks. When it kicks the rpm goes down and up.The dealer said that the things that needed to be changed are:- front assembly trans pump- crank sensor- gasket- oil pan.
I've tried taking it to a transmission place to have just the pump changed for less and all they wanted to do was give me a whole new transmission. This car is on it's third transmission as far as I know and a new/rebuilt one was just put in 2 years ago.After talking with my father (who was a engineer) he told me a way to check if the crank sensor a problem was to have the car in neutral and rev the engine. He said that it would still do the same problems if it was the crank sensor. I did this and it did not kick at all.Is there any real way of knowing if it is really the pump that is causing all these problems or if it really needs a new transmission or something else.
Chrysler Town and Country, 2003, 134K ...
I have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
View 1 RepliesI recently had a spin out on the ice in my 2001 Honda Oddessy Minivan and had to have the back wheel and front rim replaced. I definitely hit the sidewalk at least once and ended up backward in traffic with the back of my van on the sidewalk. Just after getting the work done I noticed for the first time that my car was having trouble shifting out of park into any other gear when starting and when I had it running but put it in park. I have to either press the brake several times, all the way into the floor to get it to shift out of park or pump it once or twice quickly and when I hear a little click, shift it into gear. Is this a transmission problem? Could it have been caused by my spin out?
View 3 RepliesFor the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
View 9 RepliesOzzy is a 2003 Hyundai Accent with an automatic transmission. Over the last 2 year he has been having a lot of problems with his transmission. The first thing that was done was to replace his transmission fluid. Unfortunately the chuckle head that replaced his transmission fluid put the wrong kind in and he had to have a whole new transmission installed. And now only about a year later Ozzy is having transmission problems yet again. What is happening is that it feels like the car is struggling to shift gears and then once in gear it will suddenly accelerate.
Also, the idle races even when your foot is not on the gas pedal and yes, the check engine light is on. So, I have a couple of questions. First how much longer can she keep driving it like this before the engine falls out somewhere on the 405? Secondly how much is it going to cost to repair Ozzy? Also her driving the car when it is behaving this way is really dangerous, right? Because it felt pretty scary today when I was sitting in the passenger's seat and we were doing 75 on the freeway and Ozzy was shaking and making all sorts a noise. And lastly, she needs a new mechanic right, there is no way she should keep going to these guys that put the wrong fluid in and then replaced her transmission, right?
My 2005 PT Cruiser (not turbo) is giving me a very frustrating P0700 code and a weird problem. First thing in the cold, autumn, the car drives perfectly fine (through still with the engine code on). Once the day warms up a little, the transmission decides that shifting past second gear is for punks and won't do it, so 30 mph has the engine revving at 3K rpm.
My morning commute is 20 minutes, and in that time, I go up to 50 mph with no issues. Driving home, or any other time of day, becomes the issue. What in the world could possibly be going wrong? I've been trying to hit up the junkyard for a PCM to see if switching that out would work, but it's been too rainy and cold to get out there.
The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
View 4 RepliesWhile in drive, transmission does not shift into the first gear (once in motion transmission shifts between 2-5 without any issues), but all 1-5 gears available while in Tiptronic mode. The check engine light is not on. Is it a transmission problem or a control/wiring issue?
View 3 RepliesThis morning my 2006 Dodge Dakota v8 auto decided to become a large paperweight. I started it up fine and let it warm up a bit (about five-ten minutes), then shifted into reverse to leave my driveway and it won't move. It just rev's and rev's like it's in neutral. I tried Reverse, Drive, and both low gears, but no luck.
Since it got very cold, it has been making a buzzing/whirring sound that seems to be coming from the belts. But that sounds would go away when the car warmed up. I thought I needed a new power steering belt (and still may), but that wouldn't keep the car from moving at all, right?
I have a 04 grand caravan 3.8 liter. after filling up with gas & only after filling up i have a prob with the way the van runs. it will start and idle fine but once i shift in to gear and try to drive it starts to buck. if i take my foot off the gas it wants to stall. if i shift in to N or park the RPMs are around 400/500. if i rev the motor in N or park it will smooth out and idle fine and drive fine until the next fill up, then it starts all over again.
View 1 RepliesHave an 02 Auto with the 2.7, 4wheel drive, and it doesn't shift into 5th gear. Can go through the 4 gears with the manual shift, but when just in drive, only shifts up to 4th. At 65mph, RPM's over 2500.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car that has an intermittent vibration that can be felt when seating in the car and you move the gear shift lever to D for drive. The car has 141,000 miles. It is an automatic transmission. The vibration cannot be felt when touching the steering wheel. What could be causing the vibration?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
I have recently run into a problem with my transmission on my van, mainly that it won't drive forward, however reverse seems to work just fine. Prior to the problem: Before it stopped working altogether, there were a few symptoms that I should tell you before we get started. First, upon starting the vehicle and putting it into drive the vehicle acted like it was in neutral, or barely crawled forwarded. If you waited a few moments, or pressed the accelerator, it would quickly engage and once it had been driven for 5 minutes no more problems shifting gears would occur.
I attributed these problems to low fluid and/or cold fluid (as the problem would noticeably become better/worse with warmer/colder conditions respectively) So I was content with topping off the fluid and seeing if the problem persisted consistently when it got warmer. 2.) There would be at times a loud clunk when the gear finally engaged after pushing the accelerator.
I have a repair manual for the van which has a trouble shooting guide and it said to check the universal joint. I did, and it seemed intact, rust free, and fine. I researched it a little more and did not see any indications that this was an awful horrible problem, so again, I decided to wait until the weather changed to investigate further. Problem: One day I drove the van to north Austin and left it in a parking lot for a few hours while I went inside. When I came back out and started the vehicle it would not engage 'drive' no matter what I did. It has since been sitting in the parking lot for about 2 weeks and the owner finally gave me the boot so I pushed it out onto the street.
What I have tried: I found a leak where the transmission fluid connects to the radiator (a hose was clamped too hard) and seemed to have fixed that problem. So that solves the problem of why there was low fluid in the first place. I took the doghouse apart and replaced a few vacuum lines that were extremely worn and damaged. At one point this was causing the van to stall immediately after starting, but have since been fixed. I checked the shift linkage where it connects to the transmission housing and, luckily, was able to view the dial on the transmission case where it connected; all moves of the shifter do in fact engage the dial and turn it. I pulled the two electrical connections off of the transmission housing to inspect them for burns or corrosion, although I would doubt reverse would work if they were damaged, and found none. They seemed to be in fine shape. The throttle cable seems to be fine. The speedometer cable is missing I believe because I can't find it and the speedometer doesn't work. However, unless I'm missing something this wouldn't cause the problem. Fluid seemed dirty, but I did not feel that is had be roasted over a fire pit (indicating burned out parts?)
Possibilities: I am going to drop the pan today I hope and investigate a little further inside the transmission. The transmission fluid does NOT seem to be getting any hotter than luke-warm. From what my manual tells me this should not be. Transmission fluid should get to a point where it is too hot to comfortably touch. I am wondering if this could be caused by one of three things a.) Broken pump not circulating the fluid b.) Clogged filter - fluid unable to circulate c.) No vacuum - not allowing the pump to get adequate air pressure to operate. I am wondering if, maybe, the fluid is not being warmed enough to expand correctly to let the transmission operate.
I have heard that these go bad, but are cheap and easy to replace. I have put this option off because I'd assume the regulator controls more than one thing and so if it were broken something like say, the fuel system would be affected as well. Maybe I'm wrong? Could it also be the hose itself? I think there is also a short somewhere in the electrical system, although I think it's located in the heater wiring, because the battery will drain heavily when it rains and the heater is engaged. I have read somewhere that this may cause the transmission not to operate properly, but it seemed to me like it is something else. In any case, I have been stuck in Austin now for quite some time, don't have money to pay a shop 2,000 to diagnose, over charge me for parts, and charge 10 hours of labor for a rebuild when you can buy these transmissions, it seems, for relatively cheap. I am hoping this is a relatively simple problem that someone here would be able to recognize and diagnose, or at the very least be able to say: "Check and fix these 4 things and come back." I'm trying very hard to learn this car inside and out and the repair manual I bought doesn't want me playing with the transmission at all - simply says "take it to a pro chump"
The drive selector on my 2000 Ford Explorer Automatic 4.0L will not allow selection of low gear. The selections are shifted to the right so the last one, low gear will not select. When in park, P, it shows R. When in drive, D, it shows as 2 and when in 2 it shows as 1. Then it will not allow to shift in to 1.The settings are off by 1 knotch. what's up with that? It runs fine but cant get to low.
View 5 RepliesHave a 2003 Saturn Vue with a variable transmission (rebuilt). It will only go in reverse even when in drive, or natural.
View 5 Replies