Transmissions :: 2013 Ford Escape Bumps After Pedal Release
Jul 26, 2014
I have a Ford Escape 2013. When accelerating to around 60 km/h (40 m/h), it bumps after pedal release (It accelerates right after pedal release, while normally it should decelerates and stays put). This problem only happens at around 60 km/h (40 m/h) and no happen at other speed. But at lower speed transmission is sometimes jerky when accelerating or decelerating. I took car to Ford dealer, and they reloaded (reset) the programming module. It worked better in 1st week, but got worse after that. I notice that transmission jerky problem is worse in hot weather (over 20 degree with sunshine), but is better in cool and cloudy weather and not sure in cold weather.
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I stated my problem incorrectly in a previous post. 99 Grand Marquis. The transmission won't UP shift unless you release the gas pedal. Check engine light not on, no OBD codes. Changed the transmission fluid and filter. Fluid level OK.
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Is it all the lexus rx350 had that noise? From the day I noticed hissing noise when I gentally press the brake pedal down and release it . And same noise can be heard when drive slowly and release gas pedal.
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After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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I have a 2001 Escape XLT, when driving thru a parking lot or otherwise at slow speed and hitting bumps, I can hear a clunking sound from the right front tire. Its especially bad if I drive over cobblestone or on a dirt road. Could this be the CV joint? Ball Joint? How can I tell what it is?
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I realize that is vague. I realize it could be anything from a wheel bearing to a ball joint, tie rod, control arm/control arm bushing, etc.
Are there any very common front-end steering or suspension issues on 2012 escapes? When tires are inflated to 32-34psi, the car tracks straight, gets great mileage --but almost sounds/feels like it's got a CV or wheel bearing issue on the front right. Every time I hit the brakes while backing out of the driveway I can hear a slight bump or pop. When the car is parked (flat, tires straight) there is slight play left-to-right in the steering wheel.
I'm a German car guy. Have never touched this car. (Wife's car) Right tire is wearing bad on inside. Looking for some direction so I can assess. Car has 88k miles. This will be a DIY fix. Don't have any manuals or anything so just looking for a heads up where to start. Also is Haynes the best way to go? Is there a Bentley? Anything online/CD/DVD?
Play in steering wheel makes me think tie rod (fine because easy/cheap) but such excessive wear on the inside right front makes me think wheel bearing. Could it be both? This is AWD. Is this (like a Subaru) a CV joint where the front spindle passes through a strut base that everything attaches to --so there's an inner and outer wheel bearing?
Does anything up front require a press or can it all be done without a press?
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2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
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What's the best way to be faster when you shifting using pedal shift or stick shift on automatic transmission? Release the gas pedal before shifting and then hit the gas pedal again (just like driving manual), or keep flooring the gas pedal while shifting?
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When I am driving holding the gas pedal and the rpm at about 1500-2000 rpm but when I release the gas pedal the rpm goes down maybe 500-750 rpm then back up.
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99 Grand Marquis. Transmission won't down shift unless you release the gas pedal. Check engine light not on, no OBD codes. Changed the transmission fluid and filter. Fluid level OK.
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A family member said that the front ball bearings are bad. This is what is going on; when I am driving and release the gas pedal and/or brake pedal, it jerks. When I am turning, left or right, to park in a parking space, it sounds and feels like the tire is going to break (when turning right to park, right tire; turning in left, left tire). I don't want to get taken advantage of when I go to a mechanic.
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This morning I drove my car to see my dentist. When I parked I engaged the parking brake as I always do out of habit. However this time when I was done at the dentist and got in my car I tried to disengage the parking brake pedal and it wouldn't release. It kept going lower. Now I think its pretty much floored. I had to leave the car in the parking lot as it started to rain heavily. How to release the brake pedal. ? I think it must just be a stuck lever or gear thats preventing the release mechanism from working. Any pics or have dis-assembled a parking brake pedal on the phaeton before.
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I have a '96 2.2L Cavalier with an automatic transmission. The car has about 275,XXX miles on it. Recently, I have been having problems with the transmission. Basically, the transmission doesn't shift unless I release the gas pedal and press down on it again. It always happens around the 20-25 m.p.h. mark. If I don't release the gas, my speed doesn't increase much, i.e. it goes up to about 30 m.p.h. and I hear the engine revving hard. Once I do the gas pedal thing though, it accelerates well.
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I have a 2015 IS250 F Sport with brakes that squeak. First time dealer said can't replicate and suggested hard braking to burn off any residue on rotors. Second time, dealer replace rear brake calipers which resulted in mix match colors of the brake caliper and bracket. Not happy.
Well it's starting to squeak again. Not sure if moisture and or cold has anything to do with it. Washed the car yesterday and as I was moving it down the driveway (small incline) the brakes squeaked as soon as I released the brake pedal. I was able to replicate this several times yesterday.
This morning brakes squeaked as soon as I released the brake pedal. Not on an incline driveway today.
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The squeak is most pronounced when the brake pedal is released, but it still makes a quieter squeak when the pedal is depressed. I can't tell which side it is coming from; my guess is the middle of the rear or the left rear. I can't tell because I have to be in the car to release the brake (I guess I could tie a string around a brick and pull on it when I'm by the rear wheels). I should mention that all three of the belts are due for a change. Which part is causing the brake system squeak? The brakes work; replacing the squeaking part or parts is going to be lower on the project queue than the CD player/radio errors and replacing the belts, pulleys, etc. in the engine compartment (I've posted elsewhere on the forums about those issues).
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Have noticed recently a "slipping" of sorts of the tranny while shifting or if I release the gas pedal, then lightly accelerate again.
My 2001 Sebring has had these symptoms for years, but have been explained off as being a habit with the Chrysler electronic transmission...
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I have weird kick back when I release gas pedal. Why?
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When I release my clutch pedal to accelerate, there's I guess a "warble" noise is the only way i can describe it. its been like this since i got the car a couple months ago. Is this normal?
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2003 escape brake pedal squeals. Brakes have all been redone; however, pedal squeals when released. Wondering if vacuum leak or master cylinder.
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I have a 2010 Ford Escape Limited. This has only happened twice, but when the fuel level is low (fuel level light on and indicating 50 miles or less til empty), the gas pedal does not respond as well. One time I pressed the pedal, the car shudders and tries to go, another time my wife was at a stop light, then tried to press the gas pedal and the car didn't go anywhere. She had to turn off the car, turn it back on, then it worked. Doesn't seem to happen when the car is full of fuel, but like I said, it's only happened twice.
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I have a Toyota Corolla Altis Cruisetronic Automatic transmission. Car has done only 4000 km and is 8 months old.
Problem I am having is that when I release the accelerator pedal say while driving at 60 kph, the car does not freely coast but decelerates with a drag and tries to slow down to a stop. The drag is more serious with the a/c on. It does not like to remain in high gear. Previous auto transmission Corrolla's I have driven never gave me this kind of problem.
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