Toyota - Yaris :: Peeling Off Of White Flakes
May 29, 2015
there is peeling off of white flakes, mostly on top of the car. what is this? what to do?
View 2 Repliesthere is peeling off of white flakes, mostly on top of the car. what is this? what to do?
View 2 RepliesMy AC vents have charcoal like flakes (disintegrate if you rub your fingers together) in addition to white powdery dust and fibers coming out of them. I have had the car to the dealership 3 times. The first time they replaced the drivers side left vent (claimed deterioration of the vent) - the second time they sent it back with nothing and the third time they replaced the evaporator coil. I'm still having issues with this material coming out - I've had the car for about a year and half and really don't want to get rid of it!
View 4 RepliesI bought my 2004 toyota tundra limited addition brand new it has 310000 miles. It runs like brand new. The only things to complain about is the paint and piston slap. My paint faded and clear coat started peeling 6 years ago. I notice piston slap 6 to 7 years ago. Runs like brand new. Open the hood no leaks not dirty very clean. I've maintained this vehical from day one it serves me well hoping it will out live me. I don't see to many 04/05 on the streets.
View 1 RepliesI have a '98 Camry. The windshield and side window rubber gaskets/molding is cracking, and there's paint peeling on the roof. I have 166k on it and it runs fine. Do I need to do something about these issues? I'm concerned about water leaks (not yet), but don't care about it cosmetically.
View 2 RepliesBought a 2013 Camry from local dealer last fall with just over 12k miles on it. I recently did my first oil change and there was sizable metal flakes in the oil pan. I'm not 100% positive they came out of the oil pan. I'm going to change the oil again after 5k and see what it looks like. The car is a Toyota certified vehicle.
At any rate, do you think I should take it in to Toyota and have them look at it? I just want to be covered if there is an issue with the engine later on.
Toyota Yaris 2008 with 165,000 miles, so far great car. I drive an average of 100 miles a day, and had no problems until the last 6 months that the driver side headlight burnt out. So no big problem, right? just replace it... Well, about 2 months later, the other one went out, replaced it too. This morning at 1:30a.m getting home from work, a hwy patrol stops me because the driver side headlight is out, and gives me a warning ticket. I took the car to my mechanic so he can check wires or something, but he says that there is nothing to check, that after a while "those" lights go out like that. I am not sure about that, I really do not want to be changing lights every 2 or so months.
View 8 RepliesI bought a 2008 toyota yaris last year from the dealership when it was returned from a lease. It has been running really well, couldn't be happier with this little car. Weather is practically perfect, but today when I was leaving, I had trouble starting my car.
After turning the key for 2-3 seconds the car finally starts and once it starts is runs fine, no service lights come on, no issues with lights, no sputtering, no stalling. My Toyota dealership isn't open until tomorrow morning, but I have an appointment at 7am.
What this could be and if I drive the car anywhere else today (10/02/11) is there a risk I'll not be able to start it at all? And end up needed a tow?
Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Yaris at 33,000 miles . I love the car BUT on two occasions, the following has happened:
I am driving at 70 mph on the highway. Out of nowhere the car starts decelerating. I watch the needle on the mileage gauge fall and try to accelerate but even when the gas pedal to the floor, nothing happens. No odd noises, no lights go on on the dashboard. Fortunately, I am able to get over on the side of the highway safely. As I brake however, the car kind of lurches forward and feels like it wants to accelerate. After I pump the brakes briefly, the lurching stops and I start driving again and it is like nothing happened. At no time did I turn the car off.
My Car has been making a noise that comes and goes. It seems to be dependent on the speed of the engine and coming from under the hood. It can come for an hour and then disappear for a week, then come back etc.
Toyota Yaris 2008105K4 cylinder, 1.5L engineNo turbo. Attached is an MP3 of the noise, you may have to turn up the volume to hear as it isn't super loud.
Seems to happen more often in colder weather. It sometimes happens right from startup, but other times it doesn't start until after half an hour on the road.
I just imported an Toyota Belta (Yaris) 2009. When starting it after it's been siting for a while (i.e. over night) it almost always doesn't start on the first attempt, but will on the second, recording attached.
Also, it has a rough idle. Today it idled down so low when we were at a stoplight it sounded like it was going to stall.
We've changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, and cleaned the injectors and throttle body. The mechanic has run diagnostics which didn't indicate anything other than rough idle.
Is it necessary to change the transition fluid every 60,000 miles?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback S. it has 99008 miles on it and while trying to drive up my drive way (which is covered in ice and snow) I got stuck and before I realized I was stuck my check engine light was flashing. As soon as I stopped the car the light turned off. I was wondering what I should do.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Toyota Yaris S Sedan. I've had it for 5 years, and it currently has 63,000 miles. About 3 years ago, it started stalling out while I was driving. It was only occasional, but it soon got worse and more frequent.
First problem: It would stall out when I would drive 35 MPH or under when it was 20 degrees or colder or when parked in direct sun. It would stall while driving and after I stopped or in Park.
Second Problem: It would stall out when I would drive 70 MPH or under, while driving, no matter the weather conditions.
Third Problem: On cruise control, the car would loose speed and drop down to 50 MPH then leap forward and speed up to 90-95 MPH before settling back on 73 MPH.
Fourth Problem: It jerks while driving. It'll start to stall, then speed up, then start to stall, then speed up, repeat once more then speed up.
Fifth Problem: When the first three problems occurred, the car would shake during and after.
I've taken the car in seven times to two different Toyota dealerships, with nothing found. They were able to recreate the stalling issue, but none of the others. I contacted the Toyota company and they opened an inquiry, but found nothing and closed the case. I need this car to last me a couple more years. What the problem could be and if it's fixable?
I've been using full synthetic 0W-20 oil since it was new(2010 Prius. It is an early build). Last time I had an oil change was about a year and a half ago, oil has 8,000 miles on it. I ran the car hard today at wide open throttle around town. Never driven this way for the past 68,000 miles/5 years. All fluid levels are normal. When I went to check the oil dipstick after running the car at WOT a few times, I noticed a few flakes on the dip stick. Nothing big, just a 1-2 flakes very small flakes every time I reinsert the dip stick. Flakes are about the size of a single dust particle. It's 86 degrees out, which supposedly 0W-20 should protect the engine.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2003 Kia Sedona EX with 103k miles on it. It is currently in the shop (KIA Dealership) and I'm being told that I have metal flakes in my oil and excessive sludge in my oil passages. This is causing my oil pressure to come in at 15 PSI instead of the specified 93 PSI. My mechanic has recommended a new engine.
I have only had the vehicle for 9 months and have done regular oil changes in that time.
Is there any hope of cleaning out the sludge? If yes, what do you recommend?Can I do successive short-mile oil changes?Can I use SeaFoam or some other product to clear it?Did I just happen to buy a car that hadn't been taken care of very well and now I really do need a new engine?
I've already replaced in the last 6 months of the 9 months I've had it:
Tires (Less than 10k miles on them)
Front & Rear brakes (whole thing)
Water Pump/Timing Belt/Serpentine/etc
Catalytic Converters - both fronts and the rear (just last week!!!)
I wanted the pose the question here first to be more prepared when I bring my car into the shop this week. I just noticed the other day that my car is making a modest scraping noise when the car is making a hard right turn (like you would be making into a parking spot). It doesn't happen if you are just turning the wheel, the car must be moving. The sound does not seem to happen for left turns or when the car is going in reverse. I am leaning towards it sounding like it is coming from the front drivers side. The sound's speed is dependent upon how fast the car is moving...it sort of makes an spinning sound.
A few things to note about the car. It is a 2009 with 62,000 miles on it. It has been maintained religiously, following the manufacturers guidelines. I had service done on the car about 3 weeks ago (it is possible this sound has been around since then but the car doesn't get very much driving these days due to a carpool arrangement). The service done was: new tires and alignment, clean carbon build up off valves, rear drum brake adjustment (tightening and aligning I believe), transmission fluid replacement, and a new engine air filter. Could this be the result of the work done a few weeks back?
The car required a new water pump, the mechanic suggested to also replace the serpentine belt because of age - after a week the car made high pitch noise when started, the noise stopped after the initial start-at the shop it was explained that a new serpentine belt requires tightening after the car has been driven for a while - like a week- is this correct or was the belt not installed correctly....
View 11 RepliesI just bought my first car: a 2007 Toyota Yaris. It has a torn CV boot on the driver's side (don't worry, I was aware of this when I bought it). I've done my homework, and I understand that if I do nothing, at some point I will start to hear a clicking or clunking sound when turning the wheel, that will gradually grow louder over time. Eventually, I'll be driving along, and the CV joint will break for good, resulting in either:
a) the gas pedal won't propel the car, I will slam on the breaks and be stuck on the side of the road, or
b) (in rare cases) the driver's side wheel will fly off, leaving me stuck in the ditch, and possibly dead.
I don't want
a) to happen, but I really don't want
b)! I've also learned that replacing the whole CV axle is probably the best fix for this, and that the a cheap way to do it is to order the part myself and bring it to a mechanic.
So here's my question: Should I absolutely be fixing this before I drive to Michigan? In other words, if I don't fix, and then get 50 miles into driving to Michigan, and start hearing that click-click-click sound, am I screwed? Once the clicking starts, do you think the joint would fail before 1500 miles, or do I have a grace period?
I just purchased a 2008 Toyota Yaris. The car is excellent with only one exception. When above 55mph, I hear a pulsing noise - a constant evenly spaced noise similar to an engine that is lightly revving on and off. If I take my foot off the gas, it goes away. Press again while I'm above 55mph, and it pulses again. I have no loss of acceleration, no bucking, and the rpm gauge is steady as she goes. It is an automatic. No noises or anything under 55mph. I'm perplexed.
View 2 RepliesI'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
View 4 Replies