Toyota - Yaris :: 2008 - Take Time To Start?
Oct 2, 2011
I bought a 2008 toyota yaris last year from the dealership when it was returned from a lease. It has been running really well, couldn't be happier with this little car. Weather is practically perfect, but today when I was leaving, I had trouble starting my car.
After turning the key for 2-3 seconds the car finally starts and once it starts is runs fine, no service lights come on, no issues with lights, no sputtering, no stalling. My Toyota dealership isn't open until tomorrow morning, but I have an appointment at 7am.
What this could be and if I drive the car anywhere else today (10/02/11) is there a risk I'll not be able to start it at all? And end up needed a tow?
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Twice now my 2001 Echo has overheated when I was sitting and idling it for an extended time with the air conditioner running. The temperature outside was in the nineties. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. After I let it cool down the first time added coolant and drove it, it didn't happen again until today months later. Is this normal?
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback S. it has 99008 miles on it and while trying to drive up my drive way (which is covered in ice and snow) I got stuck and before I realized I was stuck my check engine light was flashing. As soon as I stopped the car the light turned off. I was wondering what I should do.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris S Sedan. I've had it for 5 years, and it currently has 63,000 miles. About 3 years ago, it started stalling out while I was driving. It was only occasional, but it soon got worse and more frequent.
First problem: It would stall out when I would drive 35 MPH or under when it was 20 degrees or colder or when parked in direct sun. It would stall while driving and after I stopped or in Park.
Second Problem: It would stall out when I would drive 70 MPH or under, while driving, no matter the weather conditions.
Third Problem: On cruise control, the car would loose speed and drop down to 50 MPH then leap forward and speed up to 90-95 MPH before settling back on 73 MPH.
Fourth Problem: It jerks while driving. It'll start to stall, then speed up, then start to stall, then speed up, repeat once more then speed up.
Fifth Problem: When the first three problems occurred, the car would shake during and after.
I've taken the car in seven times to two different Toyota dealerships, with nothing found. They were able to recreate the stalling issue, but none of the others. I contacted the Toyota company and they opened an inquiry, but found nothing and closed the case. I need this car to last me a couple more years. What the problem could be and if it's fixable?
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I just purchased a 2008 Toyota Yaris. The car is excellent with only one exception. When above 55mph, I hear a pulsing noise - a constant evenly spaced noise similar to an engine that is lightly revving on and off. If I take my foot off the gas, it goes away. Press again while I'm above 55mph, and it pulses again. I have no loss of acceleration, no bucking, and the rpm gauge is steady as she goes. It is an automatic. No noises or anything under 55mph. I'm perplexed.
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In January I had taken my car in for an oil change. About a Month later my check engine light comes on. I pull over and there is no oil cap. Why the light hadn't come on before then is beyond me. I also park on grass so didnt notice it. I took it to advanced auto to see what the code for the light was and it said that the engine was running lean. Is this connected? and if so how? I am driving a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback with only 60,000 KMs.
I have been having a lot of problems with this cars ABS and brakes. For a few months now, the ABS Light and "!" will come on and off throughout my drive to work and home. Also, sometimes when I hit the brakes it makes a LOUD grinding noise and when I'm holding down the brakes the car doesn't stop as fast, it kind of like skids. Now, I've noticed that this noise only occurs when the ABS light is OFF. When the ABS light and brake light come on, NO noise what so ever.
I've gone to multiple mechanics and replaced almost everything you can name for brakes (pads, drum, rotor, etc.). I've also tried replacing the ABS sensor wires, but still I am experiencing the same problems. It's really frustrating because the noise only happens sometimes, and of course it never makes the noise when the mechanics in the car with me.
I've made a video of the noise it makes, you can check it out here ......
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I just imported an Toyota Belta (Yaris) 2009. When starting it after it's been siting for a while (i.e. over night) it almost always doesn't start on the first attempt, but will on the second, recording attached.
Also, it has a rough idle. Today it idled down so low when we were at a stoplight it sounded like it was going to stall.
We've changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, and cleaned the injectors and throttle body. The mechanic has run diagnostics which didn't indicate anything other than rough idle.
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I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Tundra which is vibrating intermittently about 5 to 10% of the time. I have had the tires rotated, and balanced, plus the front end looked at by a dealer. Still does it.
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My 2005 Toyota matrix started having a lazy start as soon as I had the timing belt changed, and has even failed to start then gone back to lazy starting routine. Is changing the timing belt likely to corrupt the engine timing? Should the mechanic have checked the timing as part of the belt replacement job?
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How can I control the starting time on the Remote Start of LX570 ?
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I recently noticed that the airbag light of my 2001 Echo never comes on and is off all the time.
What can be the reason? Is the fuse blown?
If the fuse is blown, shouldn't there be an alarm or warning indication? I mean, because airbag is a the main safely feature in a car, shouldn't there be a warning mechanism to simply indicate that it does not work at all?
BTW, can a battery change have caused this? I changed the battery a while ago but never noticed this issue until now.
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I have 2005 ECHO with 117000 km on it. I would like to know when is the time to change brake fluid. I did some research in TOYOTA web-sites but nobody mentioned it.
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For the last few months, I have been chasing down steering problems. Alignment, end links, ball joints... and now, humming. Every time I take a turn that requires more than 1/4 turn of the steering wheel, the car hums. It wasn't very noticeable at first, but over the last week it has gotten much louder.
I have topped off my PS fluid and replaced my belts, but this has not solved the issue. Before I start replacing a pump and/or a steering rack.
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For about the last 6 months or so I get a audio static for about 10-12 seconds every time I turn on the engine. Ditto after I turn off. I am using factory speakers, the head unit was replaced by previous owner. There has been no issue with the audio other than this one. I do live in an extreme weather area: +35C to -40C, but I don't think that should have anything to do with this. Is this a bad ground issue? In that case where do I find the ground cable and how to properly make the ground connection? Or is this something else?
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My prius 2008 94k miles makes this strange noise from time to time, randomly. What it might be?
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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there is peeling off of white flakes, mostly on top of the car. what is this? what to do?
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Toyota Yaris 2008 with 165,000 miles, so far great car. I drive an average of 100 miles a day, and had no problems until the last 6 months that the driver side headlight burnt out. So no big problem, right? just replace it... Well, about 2 months later, the other one went out, replaced it too. This morning at 1:30a.m getting home from work, a hwy patrol stops me because the driver side headlight is out, and gives me a warning ticket. I took the car to my mechanic so he can check wires or something, but he says that there is nothing to check, that after a while "those" lights go out like that. I am not sure about that, I really do not want to be changing lights every 2 or so months.
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I have a starting problem that is a new one to me. After leaving my car at the airport for two days, when I returned the instrument lights lit up but engine would not turn over. I had it washed too, so I figured the guys left a light on...nope. So I turned the ignition switch off a waited a bit, and the engine made 1/2 a turn. I waited a bit more, then a full turn. Long story short, after enough of these cycles, the engine started and I drove home, no problem. The next morning, I figure the battery is well charged, but I get the same behavior. I've had many experiences with batteries getting progressively weaker as I try to start, but this is the first time I seen a battery (or at least starter) get stronger with start attempts. The battery is well within its warrantee period, but this is Texas, so maybe it's dying already. But I don't want to go drop $120 if there's something else to look at first.
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