Toyota - Yaris :: 2008 - Engine Pulsing Sound Over 55mph
Sep 28, 2011
I just purchased a 2008 Toyota Yaris. The car is excellent with only one exception. When above 55mph, I hear a pulsing noise - a constant evenly spaced noise similar to an engine that is lightly revving on and off. If I take my foot off the gas, it goes away. Press again while I'm above 55mph, and it pulses again. I have no loss of acceleration, no bucking, and the rpm gauge is steady as she goes. It is an automatic. No noises or anything under 55mph. I'm perplexed.
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I bought 09 GX-470 4K miles ago..has 50K on it. Ran perfect when we bought it. wife said it started doing it 1 week later. I drove it and felt like warped rotors to me. replaced front rotors and pads with cheap wearever brand...I Know...I was sort of trouble shooting..did nothing ...did the back rotors and pads and seemed to fix it..did proper bed-in of new parts but, never checked at speeds above 55mph. recent trip got us up to speeds above 55... at these faster speeds when brakes are applied we get a nasty wheel wobble and a pulsing pedal...braking below 55 it feels fine.. thought's ?? last car was a 4runner which has the the same rotors and pads and never had a problem...could it be ABS ?? should I go with new oem rotors and pads ?
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback S. it has 99008 miles on it and while trying to drive up my drive way (which is covered in ice and snow) I got stuck and before I realized I was stuck my check engine light was flashing. As soon as I stopped the car the light turned off. I was wondering what I should do.
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In January I had taken my car in for an oil change. About a Month later my check engine light comes on. I pull over and there is no oil cap. Why the light hadn't come on before then is beyond me. I also park on grass so didnt notice it. I took it to advanced auto to see what the code for the light was and it said that the engine was running lean. Is this connected? and if so how? I am driving a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback
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I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla S that I purchased with about 30k miles, I have put about 65k on it since purchasing it. When applying the brakes in dry conditions I am receiving what feels like the abs engaging and a loud pulsing sound/creaking sound. The brakes will pulsate as if I am stopping on snow or ice but no traction control or abs lights will not illuminate. This has been happening for a good while(ever since I purchased the car). I have replaced the front rotors and pads and the problem purists.
The road conditions in this video are completely dry with an outside temperature in the high 70's.... YouTube .....
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I bought a 2008 toyota yaris last year from the dealership when it was returned from a lease. It has been running really well, couldn't be happier with this little car. Weather is practically perfect, but today when I was leaving, I had trouble starting my car.
After turning the key for 2-3 seconds the car finally starts and once it starts is runs fine, no service lights come on, no issues with lights, no sputtering, no stalling. My Toyota dealership isn't open until tomorrow morning, but I have an appointment at 7am.
What this could be and if I drive the car anywhere else today (10/02/11) is there a risk I'll not be able to start it at all? And end up needed a tow?
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris S Sedan. I've had it for 5 years, and it currently has 63,000 miles. About 3 years ago, it started stalling out while I was driving. It was only occasional, but it soon got worse and more frequent.
First problem: It would stall out when I would drive 35 MPH or under when it was 20 degrees or colder or when parked in direct sun. It would stall while driving and after I stopped or in Park.
Second Problem: It would stall out when I would drive 70 MPH or under, while driving, no matter the weather conditions.
Third Problem: On cruise control, the car would loose speed and drop down to 50 MPH then leap forward and speed up to 90-95 MPH before settling back on 73 MPH.
Fourth Problem: It jerks while driving. It'll start to stall, then speed up, then start to stall, then speed up, repeat once more then speed up.
Fifth Problem: When the first three problems occurred, the car would shake during and after.
I've taken the car in seven times to two different Toyota dealerships, with nothing found. They were able to recreate the stalling issue, but none of the others. I contacted the Toyota company and they opened an inquiry, but found nothing and closed the case. I need this car to last me a couple more years. What the problem could be and if it's fixable?
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I bought a 2007 Toyota Yaris about 12,000 miles ago in March of this year. Automatic transmission, it now has around 72,500 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed a "clunking" sound/feeling when I shift from park to drive while on an incline. It doesn't matter if I am going from park to reverse, or visa versa. It is more of a feeling... like something is broken and shifting forward or backwards more quickly/violently that it should, but I can hear it slightly. There is no such sound/sensation on level ground.
Temperature/weather is not a factor. Is this a symptom of a bad motor mount/tranny mount? I had a bad motor mount on a previous car, and experienced a rattling noise while idling. There is no such noise or vibration with this car. I do not have a stable mechanic yet and would like an opinion before I try and establish a relationship with one (considering I am a small 25 year old woman who looks 17-18 years old, and I am not normally taken seriously).
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback with only 60,000 KMs.
I have been having a lot of problems with this cars ABS and brakes. For a few months now, the ABS Light and "!" will come on and off throughout my drive to work and home. Also, sometimes when I hit the brakes it makes a LOUD grinding noise and when I'm holding down the brakes the car doesn't stop as fast, it kind of like skids. Now, I've noticed that this noise only occurs when the ABS light is OFF. When the ABS light and brake light come on, NO noise what so ever.
I've gone to multiple mechanics and replaced almost everything you can name for brakes (pads, drum, rotor, etc.). I've also tried replacing the ABS sensor wires, but still I am experiencing the same problems. It's really frustrating because the noise only happens sometimes, and of course it never makes the noise when the mechanics in the car with me.
I've made a video of the noise it makes, you can check it out here ......
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I am buying a Toyota Echo that the engine shakes on Idle and the shaking increase a bit when the AC is On ....
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In January I had to replace my engine in a 2007 Toyota Yaris. Last week we had the first day, since the engine replacement, that I needed to use the air. The fan blows air, it just isn't cold. Could this be anything to do with the engine replacement? Maybe they didn't hook something up properly? Do the drain the coolant to the ac when they take out the engine? I have been reading that it may simply be a fuse or needs to be charged. I realize I should have checked the a/c when I picked it up, but at -8 below, air conditioning doesn't cross your mind.
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I have a Toyota echo 2001 , manual 4 doors, My question is about when I climb a normal road the engine lose force the I reduced the speed form 4th to 2nd in order to continue my way, It is like the car is towing a truck, It s turns very slow. My question IT IS NORMAL?
The ECU only shows the 0420 Code And I know that It is about the cat because I replaced it for a generic. And the O2 secondary sensor voltage is like a wave.
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I recently notice the front right tire on my GS makes a bearing sound like at 40mph and increases at 55mph. Anything after 60mph is not too bad. I looked at the tire and notice the inner top of the tire is wavy. My brother says the strut is bad. I think not because, the car dose not bounce and strut is dry of fluids. The car has 38K miles on it, alignment was done by dealer at 35K ...
I did rotate the tires front to rear sound went away for a day and started back up again.so I know its not the bearing. Do I need better tires? another alignment? or strut?
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My 2005 Camry XLE 3.0 V6 is exhibiting engine jerkiness over 55MPH. The OBD II reader shows a group of codes:
0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire detected
0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire detected
0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
2195 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank 1 sensor 1
From what I can find in the forum I cant quite tell whether I should be looking at bad gas, overfill of oil, vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor (the expensive one before the cat).
Changing the gas or checking the oil is easy enough. where would one look for the vacuum leak that would cause this type of problem? Is getting the O2 sensor out of the upper bank as much of a beast as it sounds in some of the threads (better left to a "real" mechanic?).
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Vitals - 2004 Ford 350 Diesel 6.0L, Approx 80k miles. Purchased a year ago, driven approx 8k over the year, not a daily driver but typically taken on at least two 45 mile drives (highway, country, and urban roads) once a week but often more and also used for long trips. Truck has had regular maintenance and no issues.
Symptoms: After loading mulch (by hand so it wasn't much weight), truck drove fine for 25 miles. After restart (got coffee and donuts), truck was fine through town but accelerating from 25mph to 55mph engine noise was louder and sharper. noise persisted when engine was above approx 1500rpms. After a period of time driving over 65mph, noise stopped and engine behaved normally. Even with the noise, engine never seemed to lose power.
Since that time(one week), about 50% of starts have resulted in the noise with no clear pattern of hot vs cold starts. Even after starts where the noise occurs, if the engine is pushed to 70mph sometimes the noise stops and it not present for the rest of the drive even at those lower rpms where the noise was previously present. I don't know if the noise would happen in park with a revved engine without going into drive but if I shift to neutral while the noise is occurring, it persists. Noise is definitely not related to vehicle speed but rather engine speed because going downhill if gas is taken off, the noise is not present regardless of speed.
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Yesterday while driving to work the acceleration on my car just died; the engine was running and the car was in drive. I lost power steering and all the dash lights came on. I was driving down the road about 55mph and it just died, but the engine stayed on. What could cause this problem?
2011 Toyota Camry LE ...
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I need to determine what this sound is. We just got an 07 Certified Pre-Owned Passat with about 30k miles on it. We've noticed a pulsing, rhythmic sound when going above 50mph. Some observations:
The sound starts literally at 50mph and is present at any speed above that.Sound is speed insensitive. It is a constant rhythm at any speed above 50mphSound is NOT present when in Park and revving the engine ( I think this rules out the turbo, not sure)Downshifting to 5th and 4th gear does not make the sound go away
I'll list some more if I think of any. I'm a noob with the 2.0T but have the tiptronic transmission in my MKV Rabbit and have never had any issue like this one.
Here's a video I recorded: [URL] ....
I suppose I should've started filming at 50mph, as opposed to a constant 80 in the video. The sound is the same though. You should be able to hear it starting in the first 10 seconds. The sound at 40 seconds is just me rolling down the windows.
Last week the breather valve was replaced because it got stuck and was making a whiney whistling sound. Dunno if that would be related.
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Yesterday when driving at high elevation and extremely cold temperature I heard and felt a pulsing from rear of my car when coasting or idling.
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What this sound is / caused by? This is my Dad's Golf, the sound subsides after the engine warms up a little. It runs fine, power and all. I took off the top timing cover, nope that wasn't it, no rubbing as the sound persisted. Thinking maybe an injector o-ring? The car has 130,000 miles and change on it.
[URL] ....
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Funny pulsing ticking sound on full lock. Only noticeable when parking etc. But once it's started making it, it stops when the lock is unwound... but does it again without lock when the car reverses.
There is no feeling through the wheel or through the chasis when going forward... but subjectively it can be felt when going backwards.
Been getting a little bit more prevalent over the last thousand miles. Driving normally, steering feels perfectly normal.
I've checked the power steering fluid. If anything the reservoir is over full.. so it's definitely not short of fluid. Should the fluid be checked from unscrewing the dipstick.. or with is jut dipped in and not screwed up? Either way it's still over the max line.
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My 1998 Forester suddenly began pulsing / crunching sound, from the front brakes. I had just performed full brake inspection 2 weeks before. So I removed the ABS fuse (20 amp), and the problem disappeared. Of course the ABS light is also on now, but I can drive the car. I disconnected the 4 wheel sensors from the car harness, connected an oscilloscope to each, and spun the wheels pretty fast. I get 150 MV peak-to-peak from each sensor. Must I replace the "tone rings", or just wire-brush them? Replacing the rings are a BIG job, and the wheel bearings & seals must be replaced, since they don't survive pulling out the axles from the steering knuckle (front), or strut assembly (rear).
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