Toyota - Yaris :: 2007 - Clunking Sound From Park To Drive - Possible Broken Transmission?
Oct 1, 2011
I bought a 2007 Toyota Yaris about 12,000 miles ago in March of this year. Automatic transmission, it now has around 72,500 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed a "clunking" sound/feeling when I shift from park to drive while on an incline. It doesn't matter if I am going from park to reverse, or visa versa. It is more of a feeling... like something is broken and shifting forward or backwards more quickly/violently that it should, but I can hear it slightly. There is no such sound/sensation on level ground.
Temperature/weather is not a factor. Is this a symptom of a bad motor mount/tranny mount? I had a bad motor mount on a previous car, and experienced a rattling noise while idling. There is no such noise or vibration with this car. I do not have a stable mechanic yet and would like an opinion before I try and establish a relationship with one (considering I am a small 25 year old woman who looks 17-18 years old, and I am not normally taken seriously).
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There is a clunking sound and feel from the front end of my 2007 Ranger FX4 when in 4 wheel drive. This happens sometimes but not always on engaging or disengaging 4 wheel drive, as well as sporadically while driving along. I took it back to Ford on warranty with this problem last year, and after a few attempts I had them admit that something was wrong and they finally diagnosed that it was the front drive shaft that was binding where it leaves the transfer case, this was replaced. I have now put maybe 50km (max) on in 4 wheel drive and the problem is back, I don't think the problem was ever fixed.
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I always thought the clicking sound I was hearing in the morning was coming from the engine. Then I realized the sound doesn't start until the car is in gear, either reverse or drive. After a few minutes it will go away but until it does, it is a noticeable sound. I still have a warranty. I am wondering what this could be.
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My 2000 Echo is stuck in park, my question: can my brake lights work but the release shifter stick function not. I am trying to diagnose the cause of the lock up and have heard it is probably the brake light switch, car has now exhibited electrical problem.
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95 nissan maxima decelerated on highway, i heard a clunking sound, and then it shut off, i opened the hood and it smelled like burnt rubber. Checked all of the belts i could see..no problems. Car wouldn't start after this...and all i could hear was a clicking sound. Pulled 6 codes for the car including bad speed sensor and a misfire, as well as bad EGR...i think the timing chain/belt broke..but i can't access it.
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I have a 2000 toyota echo that idles great but starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust when I press the gas in park. When I put the car into drive or reverse the idle sounds like it wants to die and sometimes dies unless I press the gas. When I drive it the car gets to about 10mph and starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust. So far I've removed the coils one at a time while car running and noticed a difference. I've removed each of the injector wires while running and noticed a difference. replaced plugs and replaced the pcv valve replaced fuel filter and ran car with external fuel pump. I'm at a loss at what direction to go next. this all started around the time my alternator died and I replaced it.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Yaris four door. When I am stopped while in drive, the front left part of the vehicle rattles, sounds like it is around the front driver-side tire. If I change the car into Neutral, Reverse, or Park it will go away, but Drive or any of the lower gears will cause the rattle. I have only had the car for about 2 months and it has been doing this for a couple weeks.
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2003 echo , automatic, 168,000 km's
When I press the brake pedal when in the car is in PARK , I can hear a click in the plastic transmission housing beside your knee, where you change gears. It clicks when you press and clicks again when you release, almost sounds like a relay clicking. It only happens when in park, not in neutral or drive or reverse. It seems to click right when the brake lights go on and again when they go off.
Possible shift lock solenoid or control unit?
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When I drive over bumps or dips my car makes this clunking noise in the front passenger side. I just had the front brake assembly replaced as well as the engine mounts but the noise is still occurring. what could this be and would it affect my new brakes in any way?
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The last couple winter's we've experienced a significant "clunking" sound when placing the van from Park to Reverse. It doesn't do this by moving the gear shift from Park to Drive or Neutral. This only happens when the engine is cold and has been sitting for several hours. Outside temps below 35-40 degrees. Don't have the problem in Spring, Summer, or Fall. We have 177K miles. Transmission fluid/filter has been changed regularly by my mechanic according to Honda's instructions.
No problems with the transmission or engine since we've owned the vehicle, and we've been the only owners. No leaking found. Honda thought the problem could be a rear engine mount. Just had another local mechanic (I'm 65 miles from the nearest Honda dealer) whom we trust replace the Rear Transmission Mount. Still have the clunking noise, and you can really feel it too. It's been a great van for us, and we'd like to keep it another 50K, if possible.
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My 2004 camry still has a clunking sound out of the right rear when i drive over rough road. I replaced the rear struts, sway bar links and grommets and right rear bearing hub assy. What else could it be?
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I just purchased a 2008 Toyota Yaris. The car is excellent with only one exception. When above 55mph, I hear a pulsing noise - a constant evenly spaced noise similar to an engine that is lightly revving on and off. If I take my foot off the gas, it goes away. Press again while I'm above 55mph, and it pulses again. I have no loss of acceleration, no bucking, and the rpm gauge is steady as she goes. It is an automatic. No noises or anything under 55mph. I'm perplexed.
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My 2011 Hatchback automatic has developed a whine in park, neutral and drive. ATF fluid level ok and changed by dealer every 25,000 miles. Seems to be coming from under the car. Could it be the transmission oil pump? If so, does it mean removing transmission to replace? I don't think it's the fuel pump. 62,000 miles.
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I have a 2002 santa fe 2.7. I just had the transmission rebuilt and since then have noticed a clunking sound when I shift into drive or reverse. It seems to be the lower motor mount is making noise from the motor moving the mount. I look at the mount and it appears to look good, but was wondering how I can really tell if a motor mount needs replacing or not.
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I have had a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter 4 cyl Automatic for about 5 or 6 years now. I have noticed the whole time I have owned it that when I start the car and shift from Park to Drive I hear a clunk and the with the hood open the engine pivots back and forth one time more than it is supposed to. This only happens from park to drive, it does not do this from park to any other gears, and once the car is in drive everything is normal. The car has no shifting problems at all, no slips or clunking while driving or hitting the gas real fast on take off.
I changed the all three mounts on the car yesterday. Upper engine mount (still in decent shape), lower dogbone (tore to hell), and Transmission mount (decent). I really haven't noticed it get any worse over the years I just know its not right. I have never changed the fluid or the filter since I owned the car, and most likely it has never been changed in the cars life. Could a dirty filter, and dirty fluid cause this problem? Or could the linkage need adjusted or replaced?
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Just a little background, my Ex is a 2000 V10 4x4 with 217,000 miles. I've owned it for a little under a year. Very clean truck, and well maintained by previous owner. Now the issue. Starting about a month after I bought it, it would occasionally hesitate to engage drive from park. I checked fluid and it was full and clean. I had a buddy recommended that I check for chafed wires in the steering column which I did and found nothing. It seemed to get better for a while but now it's back. It's doing it more than half the time I put it in drive and sometimes takes 10-15 seconds to engage. So am I probably looking at a new trans? Or, is there anything that can be done to save the old trans?
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The car required a new water pump, the mechanic suggested to also replace the serpentine belt because of age - after a week the car made high pitch noise when started, the noise stopped after the initial start-at the shop it was explained that a new serpentine belt requires tightening after the car has been driven for a while - like a week- is this correct or was the belt not installed correctly....
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I just bought my first car: a 2007 Toyota Yaris. It has a torn CV boot on the driver's side (don't worry, I was aware of this when I bought it). I've done my homework, and I understand that if I do nothing, at some point I will start to hear a clicking or clunking sound when turning the wheel, that will gradually grow louder over time. Eventually, I'll be driving along, and the CV joint will break for good, resulting in either:
a) the gas pedal won't propel the car, I will slam on the breaks and be stuck on the side of the road, or
b) (in rare cases) the driver's side wheel will fly off, leaving me stuck in the ditch, and possibly dead.
I don't want
a) to happen, but I really don't want
b)! I've also learned that replacing the whole CV axle is probably the best fix for this, and that the a cheap way to do it is to order the part myself and bring it to a mechanic.
So here's my question: Should I absolutely be fixing this before I drive to Michigan? In other words, if I don't fix, and then get 50 miles into driving to Michigan, and start hearing that click-click-click sound, am I screwed? Once the clicking starts, do you think the joint would fail before 1500 miles, or do I have a grace period?
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I have a problem with my transmission slipping. It seems to happen most often when I have shifted from park into drive and am going uphill. I don't really notice a problem with it when I am on flats or even at red lights. It can drift backwards for 10-15 feet before "catching."
I don't feel any problem when I am going faster or in higher gears. 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC 6 Cyl 4.0...
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I was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
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