Toyota - Wheels - Echo :: Car Shakes At High Speed / Tires Are Balanced
Apr 16, 2012
Ok,I have brought my car (2005 Toyota Echo) into the shop three times and they can't figure it out. I have summer and winter tires. Last summer the summer tires were fine, the winter tires were fine, then I changed the front tires, and couldn't remove the back tires (I hit them with a hammer and 2x4 and they didn't come off). From that point on my car has vibrated at around 60mph, but not 100% of the time.
I took the car in to the mechanic, they changed the back tire for me and balanced the front...still vibrates, they then balanced the back...still vibrates. Now they say the disk rotor is bent, and want to fix that but aren't sure that will fix the problem. What's going on, I changed the front tires and now the car vibrates at high speed most of the time, but not all the time.
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I have a 2006 scion xb with 106000 miles. It has 17" custom wheels on it. When I test drove it I noticed some vibration up front and assumed the tires were not balanced good. I rotated the tires and noticed a slight difference but it still shakes around 70-80mph. I cant feel any vibration from the back of the car. Sometimes at 65 mph it's fine, other times it will shake. Since the shake isn't at 65 all the time, could my problem be worn out struts?
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My 2007 ES350 will not stop shaking at 75-80 MPH and when I decelerate it shakes till I get to 60.
They found the left read rim to be bent but I didn't expect the shake to be in the front. Both tires have been balanced and the rims are fine.
Could the transmission cause this problem?
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The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
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I am buying a Toyota Echo that the engine shakes on Idle and the shaking increase a bit when the AC is On ....
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I bought a used Toyota Camry 2012. It has 40,000 miles on it now, The car shakes all the time. It feels like the front wheels are vibrating, and the suspension is bouncing all the time. At slow speeds, and it gets worse at faster speeds. All I can say is that it is very uncomfortable drive. When I bought the car a year ago it had a very luxurious ride. Now it feels like there is something very wrong. Enough wrong so that I do not even want to drive it anymore. I have taken it to 4 different Toyota dealers, and one private mechanic. All say that there is nothing wrong with the car.
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When I drive on the highway usually between 60-70mph there is a noticeable vibration similar to when a wheel is off balance. I just mounted a new set of wheels (with tires) which were just balanced and it still does it. I had the dealer do an inspection of the suspension while it was in for the recall but they found nothing unusual.
Could this be a strut bearing that went bad? Over a year ago I did hit a very big pothole that bent one of my aftermarket wheels, I had an alignment done afterwards too. However, I first noticed the vibration about 2 months ago while the stock 18" wheels were on.
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Had the tires balanced, still shakes. Had them balanced and tires rotated on the wheels for optimum placement. Still shakes, no visible bubbles for tread seperation. What to check next?
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I just can't get my 2007 to drive like a Lexus. At 75-85 I get a vibration. I've had one rim worked on. They said it was bent. So they fixed that and I STILL get a vibration in the steering and in the seat.
I've had the tires balanced by a Lexus dealer. That worked quite a bit, but it still vibrates. Where to take this car?
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When I had this set of tires rotated and balanced for the first time I picked up a vibration. I can feel it through the steering wheel and the floor, it starts about 40 or 45 mph. It is not severe but it is annoying. The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus size 215/45-17, they had about 9K miles on them when I had them rotated. Before they were rotated they were as smooth as glass.
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I just got new rotiform BLQ rims and nexen tires. I have the hub rings and the setup was balanced and aligned (double checked).
Before this I had 3 bent TSW rims and got a pretty bad shake in the wheel around 65-70 mph. Before or after that speed everything is smooth now.
Why would this shake still occur.
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My wife's 2002 Toyota Echo with 205,000 original owner miles on it has a problem where the AC fan does not blow out adequate air at highway speeds. When you put the selector switch to get the maximum airflow and have the fan on high speed, you can HEAR it blowing out but the air coming out of the vents is minimal. It's hot in FL but the car gets excellent mileage so we take it in lieu of our 2008 Tundra.
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Need to diagnostic the noise coming from my Echo 2005? 70K miles. I took to the dealer twice and spend a total of 500$ but the noise still there. The dealer changed the drive belt , new brake pad and clean the rear drum and adjustment. The noise occurred at start up and sometime at low speed below 10mph. The noise increase then stops after 6 second. [URL] .....
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I have a 2001 Toyota Echo which developed severe vibration feedback to the steering wheel when the car was driven at low speed or stopped at a traffic sign or signal.
I took the car to the Toyota dealer and they checked the brakes, replaced the front rotors. They also checked the fuel pump and other engine components. The spark plugs and PCV vale were replaced, as well as the crank seal.
When I left the garage, the vibration reappeared after driving about five minutes. I immediately went back to the garage and waited while the mechanic checked the car. He came to the waiting room and said I would not believe what they found. I went to the garage with him and the hood on the car was raised. He started the car and there was no unusual vibration.
He closed the hood and the vibration started again. The problem was that the underhood reinforcement panel had come unwelded (or unglued) and it was vibrating. A mechanic came from the body shop and put a sealer/filler at the loose spots, we let the car sit for a while, the mechanic said the sealer/filler would expand to close the gap, and I drove the car home. The vibration had stopped.
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Taking my car to get the brakes serviced this week. Every time I brake at a high speed the car shakes. I am guessing best case scenario I get the rotors resurfaced and worse case new rotors.
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I have an 05 Camry LE & when ever I'm on the highway going around 50-80mph & need to break my steering wheel starts to shake until I either stop or put my foot back on the gas. Last year my power steering rack & one of my motor mounts got replaced, & for awhile it stopped & figured because that was going out that's what was causing it.
Well about a month later it started back up & still does it, I've taken it to the dealership & have told them & they test drove it, felt the same thing I felt but didn't find anything. Is there anything else that could be causing it ? Earlier last year my bearings were lose in the front, and I managed to get my brakes stuck & had that all fixed & since then that's when it started shaking . I took it back to that shop & mention every time I go in for oil changes at my dealership, is there something else I'm not aware about that I should ask them to look at ?
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I have a 2003 Lexus Rx 300. Last year I had new brakes and I think the rotors were worked on. I also got new tires on all 4 wheels. I have noticed a shake when I brake, mostly from high speeds. I just had the tires rotated and the shake is still there.
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My wife drives a 2010 Honda Civic LX sedan with about 18k miles. She mentioned that its steering wheel started shaking a couple of weeks ago when driving at about 60 miles/hour at the same streth of the road during her daily commute. She did experience the problem during rest of her drive at lower speed. I drive the car about once a week at lower than 45 miles/hour and had no problem. I have checked the tires and noticed nothing obvious.
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My 2001 automatic Toyota echo speed sensor broke right in half and now the other half is stuck in the differential case (cv shaft housing) and I can not get it out. at all. I'm trying to pull it right back through the hole where it came from but it just simply won't budge. any other method of removal.
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So I've been driving my tiggy with the rusted brakes from when I left it for a few months during this past winter season outdoors. I had VW check on it and they said that the only way to fix the problem is to replace the brakes (rotors and pads, I assume) for over $1k. Is there really no way to maybe scrape/sand the rusts out? Right now, when I step on the brakes, I have the pulsating feel and the car shakes when coming from a high speed. At first I thought it would go away after driving it a bit and stepping on the brakes since I did just that last year when I left it for a month during the winter season as well. If the only way is to have the brakes replaced, then I guess I have to shell out the money.
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I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
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