Toyota - Venza :: Steering Wheel Is Kind Of Locked Up And Harder To Steer Compared To Other Model?
Mar 30, 2009
I have driven my Venza V6 AWD for 1500 miles now. A lot of people commented the electric power steering feels numb.
When I am braking slowly (or lightly) to a stop because of a red light, I feel the steering wheel is kind of locked up and harder to steer compared to other Toyota I have driven (this is my fourth Toyota). When my steering wheel is not at exact 12:00 position (a few degrees off for example), I feel the tendency of the car move off from straight a head and I have to use a bit of force (more than the usual effortless power steering) to steer it straight. I am not sure if this is a normal behaviour or so called numbness of the Venza electric power steering or it is an alignment issue that needs to be corrected.
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I have a 1990 toyota celica. The parking attendant somehow locked the steering wheel and the key will no longer turn in the lock. I tried everything i could think of: turning the wheel whilst turning the key, putting car in all positions other than park and then turning the wheel and key, changing the key, etc....The steering wheel remains locked and will not unlock.
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I have a friend who called me today, she has a 1999 Explorer Sport with over 200,000 miles on it. She said she was coming home the other day and as she was pulling into her driveway she heard a clunk then the steering kind of locked up, and it felt like a tire was dragging. She moved the truck later and said that it goes forward and backwards fine but grabs and skids while trying to turn.
She called her local mech, and he thought the diff could have given out on her and is basically acting like a locked diff rather than open.. I think the front axle must have somehow engaged, and is stuck.. So my question is this, how does the front axle on a explorer engage.. I know on Jeeps and Chevys there is an actuator that moves an arm that moves a sleeve that engages both sides of the axle. Does ford work the same way?? It would seem to me that if the truck is going front and back fine the diff itself should be ok?? The xfer case was replaced about 3 years ago.
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My 2009, 6 cylinder, 3.6, AWD Caddy CTS with 175K miles as started to have steering problems. No squealing or funny noises, just very hard to steer, at low speeds and high speeds. Ocassionally it is fine but most of the time very hard, esspecially at low speeds, trying to park and things like that. My question is : how can I tell if its the power steering pump or the steering rack or maybe, and hopefully just a relay or fuse before I bring it to get repaired. If I know its the pump I can just get a peplacement from rock auto and bring it to my local mechanic and save a ton of money. If its the rack I'm stuck taking it to the dealer and losing my house to pay for it.
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The truck. 2005 super d 6.0l. 200,000 miles
The problem. After start and warmup, and then a couple of miles driving, I make a slow 90 degree turn after a stop sign. The wheel in my grip seems to go stupid for a very short time. It responds by jerking and kind of stuttering. Yet it does this only once per trip. Also it does not do this every trip. Just sometimes. After the stutter the steering is Normal. There is no vibration at speed, and no wander from side to side. Everything seems solid and straight.
So what's going on? Should I start by draining the reservoir with a hose and refilling, repeat repeat, to "flush out old fluid". Or is my pump or steering box headed for a fail. Maybe hubs or knuckle joints.
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I have a 2004 4x4, 5.4l auto. the truck sits a lot during the summer due to me riding the motorcycle instead. After sitting for nearly 3 weeks, I fired it up and went to pull out of the driveway. I notice right away that the steering wheel was a lot harder to turn than usual. I've jacked the truck up and took the weight off the front tires, it turns back and forth like normal. when the weight is back on it, it's hard to turn again. I've checked the power steering fluid and its at the full level. I hear no noises coming from the pump. Am I looking at needing to replace the rack and pinion or is there possibly another issue that can be causing this.
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The leather on my steering wheel is showing a lot of wear so I will be needing a new one soon. I was curious if the new F250 steering wheels would fit a 2005 EX? I like the style of 2009, 2010 & 2011 much better that the stock wheel in 2005.
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My steering wheel locked up on me after i parked it it now says steering defective workshop..... I can't start it nor change gears it does nothing...the battery in the remote is fine what do i do?
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My steering wheel and ignition locked up 2 days ago. I tried turning the wheel and the ignition at the same time, tried the brakes, tried shifting gears and anything else i could think of. I think the problem might be with the ignition coils, or multiple ones, but i have bypassed that by hot-wiring the car(which was a pain because of all the anti-theft features).
So I have the car running now and it is almost drivable except the steering wheel is locked up. I need to know how to fix this, i have read plenty on it and i think i can break a pin that locks the steering wheel to make it work, but i don't know where this pin is(might be behind the ignitions, or attached to it somewhere). if i could do this without breaking anything that would be great, but if the car will run, I am ok with it begin broken, because i already hot-wired it so I'm not worried about breaking anything unless it will make the car not run.
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2000 Honda Accord - will go to put the key into the ignition, key slips right in, but will not turn. The steering wheel is locked. This has been happening intermittently for a few months with no improvement. Sometime it will take me 10-30 minutes of wiggling the key, turning the steering wheel, etc until the steering wheel unlocks and key turns in the ignition. My patience is wearing and I'm concerned that it will eventually get to the point where it won't turn at all! I've tried with an alternate key and same results.
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I have a 2008 Accent with 136,000 km on it. A few days ago I parked with the wheels slightly turned and the steering wheel totally locked, the key couldn't turn and the wheel couldn't be unlocked by pushing it either way. I called CAA and the driver had no luck but he tapped the key lightly with a wrench while it was in the ignition and it started. I took it to the mechanic yesterday and they had the same problems and called a locksmith who specializes in automotive locks.
They told me to take it to the dealership because they thought it was something further inside. Something was bugging me and I realized what it was. When the car was parked and the key wasn't in the ignition, as soon as I opened the driver side door the chimes went off. I closed the door, tried to lock it from outside with the remote but it wouldn't lock and the alarm wouldn't engage. I called my mechanic to tell him this and we all agreed that it seemed the car thought the key was in the ignition even though it wasn't.
I went to the dealership and left it and they called and said it was the ignition cylinder that needed replacing. Does this sound right?
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First I have to say my Santa Fe is my pride and joy, never have I enjoyed a vehicle so much but today I encountered a problem. I went out to start my car, steering wheel is locked, key in ignition won't unlock, can't turn steering wheel to unlock.
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Car 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Engine 3.8 series II 160,000 KM
Problem : The Steering wheel won't move, I can start and drive the car forward/reverse but the wheel won't move right or left?? I was planning on scrapping the car in spring 2015 but need to move the car and don't have a clue on fixing this issue.
The key cylinder is located in the dash and I don't have any passlock II codes errors when trying to start the car, My power steering pump doesn't squeal or is locked (not Burning belts) but the pump is empty. I was thinking a seized rack & pinion but have never heard of that,I should still have manual steering I'm guessing still.
[URL] ......
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I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4 liter in line 6.tilt steering wheel is lock in one position. The handle that you release to move the steering wheel up or down don't have any tension on it.
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Got in my Treg turned key an nothing happened. Thought that somehow battery was dead. Hooked up jumpers to treg and touched both ends on the other side and had mean sparks!! Checked lights and lights are bright. Checked alarm and alarm is loud. Turn key and none of the gauges register. Starter does not turn over. Can't get car out of gear. Wheel is locked. Can get key out. Thought it was key fob and used spare. Same result. Bottom line, plenty of juice in battery, but starter will not turn over, won't come out of gear, and steering wheel is locked.
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Went to start my car today but couldn't move my steering wheel at all??
Ignition still works and i can turn my keys but not the wheel?
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I've got a 2007 rx 350. The steering wheel is locked and the key wont turn. I've tried everything, forcing the steering wheel left and right, forcing the gear shifter to neutral and moving the car. I even tried to spray some wd-40 on the key and then trying it.
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The differential inside the trans. of my 91 Corolla 1.6L with 175K grenaded as I was cruising down the highway. Just heard a loud "thunk" and the front wheels locked up. The stock trans is a three speed A131L hooked up to the AE92. The engine still has a lot of life left in it so I will be putting a new transmission in it. This 6th generation Corolla was availabe with a four speed trans. Can I replace it with a four speed trans? I can get the shifter out of a recycling yard but don't know if anything else needs changed-out.
I'd like to get a re-manufactured trans as who knows how the previous owner took care of their transmission if I pulled one out of the bone yard. I'd hate to put in a trans only to have to re-do the job three months later. Are there any reputable transmission re-builders you would recommend? I'm in the Tampa area and am willing to go anywhere in the state for a known good trans.
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A while back as I was driving, I heard some sort of clunk, and the steering wheel locked and would not turn left. It then unlocked after a few seconds. Ever since then, it has been very hard to turn to the left (and right, at slow speeds and on sharp turns, but much easier than turning left). This happened a few days after I replaced both front end struts and inner tie rod ends, and got an alignment - they were cheap quick struts (entire assembly), but seem to be of fairly good quality.
Initially after some consultation I thought it was the power steering pump, so I replaced that. It became easier to turn right, but still very hard to turn left. I took the front end off the ground and turned the wheel all the way left and right, no problem or resistance. I am nearly certain it is not the pump.
At this point, I am fairly certain it is either the steering gear or some part of the rack and pinion. I am planning on getting the assembly replaced. The fastest and cheapest way is apparently to just buy the entire steering gear/r&p assembly. Would bad strut mounts ever cause an issue like this? Any other possibilities besides the steering linkage?
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So this happened 2 times before, I am sure it is something I am doing and not the car.
So i just parked and turned off my car, and i noticed i left my windows up, so i tried to turn the car back on but the ignition would not turn and steering wheel would not move. I pressed harder and harder but it still was locked. My bro told me that same happened to his Civic and to unlock it you have to press on break hard and ignition would unlock, i tried that but nothing happened.
I googled and read online to insert the key into the ignition, try turning the car on and at the same time turn the wheel side to side. I did it and the car unlocked. My question is this, why did it lack in the first place, has this ever happened to you, if so how did you unlock it.
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The car is not starting, the Keyless entry FOB is not unlocking/locking the doors and the steering wheel is locked. I'm not sure where to begin. It doesn't make any noise when you press the button and a light says check VSC. Security light is blinking.
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