Toyota - Venza :: 2011 - Soft Clunking Noise On Front End When Reaches Exactly 10 Mph?
Oct 11, 2013
After car has sat for an hour or more. The car will make a clunking sound, front end, when it reaches 10 mph...but will only do this when first start driving. Doesn't make clunk after it's moving. BUT, if it sits for an hour or more later, it'll make the same clunking sound when starting out. Not related to turning steering wheel or braking.year -2011 with 20,000miles
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Just bought a great 2011 Venza with 75000 Texan highway miles. Now that the car is home, I've discovered that:
-- both of the remote fobs will lock and unlock the car doors,-- but neither of the two keys will lock or unlock the driver's door (the only one with a key slot, you know).
The key turns freely to right and left, with a slight, normal-feeling resistance. But nothing happens. No doors lock or unlock.
I've tried graphite in the key slot and working the key in and out. No luck.
So it seems 1) the keys are fine, as they start the car when put into the ignition.
And 2) the locks themselves also seem to be fine: both remotes lock and unlock the doors.
But 3) the driver's door can't be locked or unlocked using the key.
What worries me is that the car battery will die and I won't be able to unlock the car door in order to pop the hood open.
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Yesterday morning, as I backed out of my short driveway, I felt a grinding and then felt a thunk on the passenger side when I applied the brakes. Why would my new Venza[~5401 miles] have this? The dealer didn't feel it during a drive and couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes on inspection. The dealership claimed it was due to rust. I don't buy it. Why would new brakes rust and why would Toyota make brakes that rust?
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My car (toyota venza) recently developed some buzzing noise, here is a video recording [URL] ..... I tried to google around and did not find anything.
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I have a 2011CRV 2 wheel drive that is making a clunking noise in the front brakes every time I take my foot off of the pedal. I took it to the dealer twice and both times they told me that there is nothing they can do about it. They said it has to do with the way the pads wear but said that even when I change them the clunk probably won't go away. I have never heard a car do this.
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I just got my left front axle replaced on my Toyota (1993) and my engine mounts as well. The car is in great shape and has been driving well.Drove it away, and it was running great. It is still running great (after driving all the way home) but, I noticed it is making a loud clunking, metal on metal kind of noise on the front left axle when in first gear, happens more when turning (I think right, but maybe both right and left). I just paid a lot of money and trust the mechanic, but this does not sound right at all.
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I have been frustrated with my Elantra's handling from the time I purchased. I feel that the car is setup poorly and has design/OEM part issues.
I have improved the rear-end "hop" issue by replacing the OEM rear shocks with the KYB Gas-A-Just's -- a big improvement in handling the bumps. But the rear-end solid axle on such a light car is just crap...
I have developed quite a bit of 'clunking' noise in the front suspension.
I am considering replacing the front-end shock-strut assemblies with KYBs -- I'd love to hear if it made a big difference. Also wondering if I should change-out the 'sway bar link' while replacing the shock/struts.
I'm just so frustrated with the way this car handles (I've driven Subaru's, Honda's, and VW's) compared to other cars. I feel it's a combination of low-quality OEM suspension parts, rear solid axle, light weight, crappy electric steering settings, and tires that are too wide and too low-profile for such a light car. (I have the limited with 17 wheels).
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So about a month ago my 2013 Sonata GLS started to make some clunking noise going over the littlest bumps over the road from the front end on both right and left side.
I brought it to one mechanic and they said the rack and pinion needs replacing which is an expensive fix. I couldn't believe that was the problem as I had no leaks and it was on their solid. I ended up taking it to my uncles mechanic and he stated its the stabilizer links on the front right and front left wheels. My way to work has a lot of bad pot holes... so I'm hoping that the stabilizers are actually the problem.
Anyways, tomorrow I will be bringing it to the mechanic to have them both changed. I know a lot have been complaining about this issue and instead of replacing the rack and pinion, I thought I'd try and see if it actually is the stabilizer links and provide a fix for some of the sonata owners on here.
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I have a 2011Toyota 4Runner with ICON Stage 1 and Light Racing UCAs-I got about 65K on the truck and about 35K on this kit.
Over the last month or so, I started hearing a clicking/clunking noise coming from the front end (passenger side from what I can tell) while going over small bumps in the road. Now here is the strange part, I do not hear it first thing after I start driving but perhaps 5-10 minutes into the drive, I begin hearing the sounds. Here is another strange part; the sounds cannot be replicated if I am driving over a speed bump and I have tested many speedbumps to test that theory. The clicking sound can only be heard as I am driving down the road and any minor imperfection or bump will cause the clicking. I also can feel some feedback in the steering wheel every time I hear the clicking noise. Standing still, if I turn the steering full right or left, I cannot replicate the sound. The only way I can replicate is by the right wheel contacting any tiny bump or imperfection.
So here's what I have done so far. 1)As I was getting my 60K service at the dealer, I asked them to check it out and they just blew it off blaming the aftermarket suspension.2)A few days later, I took it to firestone (yeah I know) and asked them to check it out - They checked out the suspension and everything else and claim all seems good. 3)I am in South Florida (Miami) right now and found out about Karnage Motorsports. They have a very good reputation and were very professional. They checked out the ICON kit as well as suspension and steering but did not find anything wrong either. As a matter of fact, initially they couldn't hear the sound but after I drove the car for 10-15 minutes and took it back to them, they sound came back and they did notice the clicking noise from inside the cabin and even when he was walking alongside the car on the front passenger side.
So to sum it up, the clicking noise comes after the car has been driven for 5+ minutes and it is coming from the front right side. The noise is made as I am driving down the road over any small bump/imperfection and it's quite noticeable. I can also feel some feedback in the steering. 3 separate places have checked out the vehicle but no one seems to be able to find the issue but the guys at Karnage did hear the sound (he is going to ask around to see if he can find something).
I am just about done and I am at a point where I just want to get rid of the vehicle since I am not sure if something is going to collapse on me on the interstate at 70mph.
It only has 65000 miles so I do not want to get rid of it....
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A friend drove into work in her 2009 Venza. As she parked. the engine went up in flames. She's okay, but the vehicle isn't. This just happened today 4-15-2010 in front of scores people. Toyota says there isn't a problem.
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I am looking to purchase a Toyota Venza but can not find what model offers the sunroof. This is a make or break deal for me.
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Sadly I own a 2010 Toyota Venza. For about 3 months(since May) I have been having problems with the air conditioner and front defroster. It works intermittently. Sometimes it will work for 3 days straight. Sometimes it will stop working while driving(it will blow hot air), but most of the time if I am driving and it works it will keep working for the whole ride. If I need to restart the car after a short stop it tends to fail, and then the next morning is a crap shoot.
It seems to work better when it is hot out, but not always. I had a front end collision in November, and had the condenser replaced and the system recharged. The defrost worked fine all through the winter. Since May I have had the system recharged 2 times. the second time with dye in it (no leak). I was told to change the condenser valve (150.00), and then I was told that was not the problem, and that I needed to change the compressor ($2,000.00 for the part alone). The compressor seems to work.
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My 2009 Toyota Venza has had this issue off an on for about a year now, but it's becoming more frequent lately. When you start the car, the AC is often not working. It will be lit up, and on full power, but there is little, if any, air coming out of the vents. And then, if you get up to speed on the highway, or hit a bump, suddenly it's working. When it works, it works well, but when it doesn't, there's nothing you can do besides wait.
The mechanic looked at it today and couldn't diagnose it because it was working when I arrived and he wasn't able to duplicate the problem. They checked the blower motor and the connection and they were both fine. He said to come back when it's not working and try not to hit a bump on the way. I'm a little frustrated. What it could be?
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I own a Toyota Venza 2013. I have lost control of my ac system. None of the controls work on the dash. The system works because the ac is running but you cant change any of the settings as well as turn it off. It seems that the panel has lost power.
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I recently purchased a 2010 Toyota Venza. I unfortunately did not test drive it enough to realize how rough a ride it has. Thinking that something was wrong I brought it back and was told that it is normal and the Venza has a very hard ride. After more research I found out that it is a common complaint. The mechanic said that its large 20" tires, long wheel base and tight suspension all add up to a very hard ride. I saw previous discussions regarding this but no real or recent answers. Can anything be done to improve the ride? I was told that the 2013 model has a better ride so they must have changed something. Would something as simple as replacing the shocks with a different type? I love the car but hate the thought of driving it for the next 5 years the way it is. I would have purchased a Ford Edge or similar car if I realized how hard the ride is.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Venza V6 AWD with 60,000 miles. A few months ago I had the front rotors and pads replaced by Sullivan Tire and Auto in Massachusetts. Since that time, the brakes have started causing a grinding or vibration. It ONLY occurs at very low speeds, especially in stop-and-go traffic on the highway and only after the car has warmed up with perhaps 20-30 minutes of driving with braking. You can feel it in the steering wheel and even in the seats. Sullivan has been AWESOME in trying to solve it, already replacing the rotors and pads once and having taken them apart two other times. They seem stumped and I can't find anything related on the internet. Several techs have taken it for a ride both with and without me and every one of them confirms the same strange grind/vibration/rub and under only the conditions noted above.
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April 2009, I bought a 2009 Toyota Venza which I totally love. About 2 weeks into ownership the battery went dead. I had it jump startd and all was well. In the time since I bought it, the battery has gone dead 5 times. Numerous trips to dealer and can't find anything. The final straw was when I was having car washed and the battery went dead. I had to call tow truck to drag me out of car wash an take car to dealer. This time they saidit was a bad battery. Now my dashlights are flashing dim to real bright and my TRAC light comes on so I can't put car into gear.
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My 2002 Toyota Camry started making a clunking sound near the front left of the car (and I could barely feel it, too) at low speed over slight bumps. My mechanic, who I trust, said I had two broken engine mounts. He replaced them. Sound continued. He said I needed new struts. He replaced them. Sound continued. Decided to take it to a Toyota dealer. They said I needed new lower control arm bushings but couldn't guarantee that was the source of the sound and they would just have to see. I opted to ask yet another mechanic, who said the control arm bushings are NOT the problem, but he would have to spend some time (could be several hours) exploring to find out what the problem is...at $70+ per hour. The car only has 86,000 miles on it, but I'm getting concerned that I might end up paying for a new car without the new car smell if I keep spending money on "possible" causes.
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I have driven my Venza V6 AWD for 1500 miles now. A lot of people commented the electric power steering feels numb.
When I am braking slowly (or lightly) to a stop because of a red light, I feel the steering wheel is kind of locked up and harder to steer compared to other Toyota I have driven (this is my fourth Toyota). When my steering wheel is not at exact 12:00 position (a few degrees off for example), I feel the tendency of the car move off from straight a head and I have to use a bit of force (more than the usual effortless power steering) to steer it straight. I am not sure if this is a normal behaviour or so called numbness of the Venza electric power steering or it is an alignment issue that needs to be corrected.
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I changed the front brake rotors & pads on my wife's 2009 Toyota Camry & everything seems fine except when doing sudden or slightly hard stops it seems to do a clunk/knock type sound from the front brakes. It also only does it sometimes not every hard/sudden stop.
One thing that comes to mind is that when I went to tighten one of the guide pin bolts it was a real pain, the big bolt that the screw threads into kept spinning making it hard to tighten the bolt into & none of the others did this. I thought I tightened it down but possibly not?
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Have a 2011 SE with just over 21k miles on it.
Problem #1: When ever I go over bumps, go down my drive way, I hear this rather loud noise coming from either the roof or right rear. It sounds like someone is hitting metal with a hammer.
It happens when I'm turning the wheel or just driving straight.
Problem #2: Also when I am going over a speed bump, when the rear of the car goes over it, the suspension gets squeaky. Speeds are about 2-3 mph~
Unfortunately, it is no longer under factory warranty so taking it to the dealer is my last option.
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