Toyota - Venza :: 2011 - Grinding Brakes / Thunk On Passenger Side
Nov 4, 2011
Yesterday morning, as I backed out of my short driveway, I felt a grinding and then felt a thunk on the passenger side when I applied the brakes. Why would my new Venza[~5401 miles] have this? The dealer didn't feel it during a drive and couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes on inspection. The dealership claimed it was due to rust. I don't buy it. Why would new brakes rust and why would Toyota make brakes that rust?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Venza V6 AWD with 60,000 miles. A few months ago I had the front rotors and pads replaced by Sullivan Tire and Auto in Massachusetts. Since that time, the brakes have started causing a grinding or vibration. It ONLY occurs at very low speeds, especially in stop-and-go traffic on the highway and only after the car has warmed up with perhaps 20-30 minutes of driving with braking. You can feel it in the steering wheel and even in the seats. Sullivan has been AWESOME in trying to solve it, already replacing the rotors and pads once and having taken them apart two other times. They seem stumped and I can't find anything related on the internet. Several techs have taken it for a ride both with and without me and every one of them confirms the same strange grind/vibration/rub and under only the conditions noted above.
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Just bought a great 2011 Venza with 75000 Texan highway miles. Now that the car is home, I've discovered that:
-- both of the remote fobs will lock and unlock the car doors,-- but neither of the two keys will lock or unlock the driver's door (the only one with a key slot, you know).
The key turns freely to right and left, with a slight, normal-feeling resistance. But nothing happens. No doors lock or unlock.
I've tried graphite in the key slot and working the key in and out. No luck.
So it seems 1) the keys are fine, as they start the car when put into the ignition.
And 2) the locks themselves also seem to be fine: both remotes lock and unlock the doors.
But 3) the driver's door can't be locked or unlocked using the key.
What worries me is that the car battery will die and I won't be able to unlock the car door in order to pop the hood open.
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After car has sat for an hour or more. The car will make a clunking sound, front end, when it reaches 10 mph...but will only do this when first start driving. Doesn't make clunk after it's moving. BUT, if it sits for an hour or more later, it'll make the same clunking sound when starting out. Not related to turning steering wheel or braking.year -2011 with 20,000miles
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So, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with 40k miles and am hearing what sounds like a dragging ... medal touching medal .... brakes dragging sound coming from the passenger side mainly when the car is cold. Could this be a possible wheel bearing going out???
the car is lowered about an 1.5 inches and and sit on a staggered wheel set. 18x8.5 up front and 18x9.5 in the rear. Just want to know if I should be worried.
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There is an intermittent “Thunk Ah” noise coming from what appears to be the front passenger side of my ’97 CRV. Occurs while driving slow or fast, on turns or while driving straight. No vibrations felt, no shaking or movement of steering wheel, CRV drives straight even when hands are off steering wheel. Noise can happen on smooth or bumpy road but bumps will not always create the noise. When CRV was on the lift the mechanic found problems with right strut and left tie rod end – both front struts were replaced along with the left tie rod end and then an alignment was done.
After this CRV continues to make the noise. I always back into my driveway, which is on a slight incline, and park level in my carport with the wheels turned to the left. Twice, within the last week, I parked with the wheels turned to the right. I found that when I parked this way with the wheels turned to the right, I couldn’t get the CRV to produce the “Thunk Ah” noise until later in the day after driving and then parking at work. Mechanics are stumped and don’t know what else to explore.
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I have a 2011Toyota 4Runner with ICON Stage 1 and Light Racing UCAs-I got about 65K on the truck and about 35K on this kit.
Over the last month or so, I started hearing a clicking/clunking noise coming from the front end (passenger side from what I can tell) while going over small bumps in the road. Now here is the strange part, I do not hear it first thing after I start driving but perhaps 5-10 minutes into the drive, I begin hearing the sounds. Here is another strange part; the sounds cannot be replicated if I am driving over a speed bump and I have tested many speedbumps to test that theory. The clicking sound can only be heard as I am driving down the road and any minor imperfection or bump will cause the clicking. I also can feel some feedback in the steering wheel every time I hear the clicking noise. Standing still, if I turn the steering full right or left, I cannot replicate the sound. The only way I can replicate is by the right wheel contacting any tiny bump or imperfection.
So here's what I have done so far. 1)As I was getting my 60K service at the dealer, I asked them to check it out and they just blew it off blaming the aftermarket suspension.2)A few days later, I took it to firestone (yeah I know) and asked them to check it out - They checked out the suspension and everything else and claim all seems good. 3)I am in South Florida (Miami) right now and found out about Karnage Motorsports. They have a very good reputation and were very professional. They checked out the ICON kit as well as suspension and steering but did not find anything wrong either. As a matter of fact, initially they couldn't hear the sound but after I drove the car for 10-15 minutes and took it back to them, they sound came back and they did notice the clicking noise from inside the cabin and even when he was walking alongside the car on the front passenger side.
So to sum it up, the clicking noise comes after the car has been driven for 5+ minutes and it is coming from the front right side. The noise is made as I am driving down the road over any small bump/imperfection and it's quite noticeable. I can also feel some feedback in the steering. 3 separate places have checked out the vehicle but no one seems to be able to find the issue but the guys at Karnage did hear the sound (he is going to ask around to see if he can find something).
I am just about done and I am at a point where I just want to get rid of the vehicle since I am not sure if something is going to collapse on me on the interstate at 70mph.
It only has 65000 miles so I do not want to get rid of it....
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I've been noticing "Hissing Noise" coming from the rear passenger side (rear right hand side) of my 2011 Prius for a few days now. It sounds like the hissing noise is coming from the vent that's located on that side. Not sure what that does, but the hissing noise is usually present when I'm driving at 10MPH or up and it's gone when I'm less than 10MPH or at a complete stop. I have about 32K miles on the car.
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A friend drove into work in her 2009 Venza. As she parked. the engine went up in flames. She's okay, but the vehicle isn't. This just happened today 4-15-2010 in front of scores people. Toyota says there isn't a problem.
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I am looking to purchase a Toyota Venza but can not find what model offers the sunroof. This is a make or break deal for me.
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Sadly I own a 2010 Toyota Venza. For about 3 months(since May) I have been having problems with the air conditioner and front defroster. It works intermittently. Sometimes it will work for 3 days straight. Sometimes it will stop working while driving(it will blow hot air), but most of the time if I am driving and it works it will keep working for the whole ride. If I need to restart the car after a short stop it tends to fail, and then the next morning is a crap shoot.
It seems to work better when it is hot out, but not always. I had a front end collision in November, and had the condenser replaced and the system recharged. The defrost worked fine all through the winter. Since May I have had the system recharged 2 times. the second time with dye in it (no leak). I was told to change the condenser valve (150.00), and then I was told that was not the problem, and that I needed to change the compressor ($2,000.00 for the part alone). The compressor seems to work.
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My car (toyota venza) recently developed some buzzing noise, here is a video recording [URL] ..... I tried to google around and did not find anything.
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I replaced the pads and rotors on my 1989 toyota camry yesterday. Took it out for a test drive and all appeared to be OK. I did not bleed the brakes, but did have to remove a small amount of brake fluid after installing everything.
On my way into work this morning there was quite a bit of grinding noise coming from the brakes. The noise was not consistent, happening both while brakes were depressed and also when not in use. It also would go away after a few minutes and didn't always happen while braking.
I'm thinking the piston may be locking up at times, but don't know. I'll also throw out there that this is my first brake job. I did follow my Haynes manual and don't think I did anything wrong.
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We have a 1998 Toyota Corolla with 170k miles. The brakes are squeaking and grinding often. In Feb. the front brake pads were replaced, but the noises continued. In May, they replaced the front pads again, within a week the grinding and squeaking continued. Finally, I took the car in late July and had the mechanic drive the car around. He said the back brakes were making the "grinding" noise and the front was squeaking. He said it was "cheap brake parts". When he looked at the brakes he said the back brakes needed adjusting and may not be working as well, therefore making the front brakes work hard. This caused the front brakes to get hot and develop a glaze. He adjusted the back brakes and scratched up the front brakes. The car was fine for about 2 weeks or so. The sounds have gotten progressively worse and I refuse to drive the car. The brakes seem to work, but the sound is so terrible like something is loose, or off and scraping metal. We have used this mechanic for years with a recommendation from our neighbors.
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My 2009 Toyota Venza has had this issue off an on for about a year now, but it's becoming more frequent lately. When you start the car, the AC is often not working. It will be lit up, and on full power, but there is little, if any, air coming out of the vents. And then, if you get up to speed on the highway, or hit a bump, suddenly it's working. When it works, it works well, but when it doesn't, there's nothing you can do besides wait.
The mechanic looked at it today and couldn't diagnose it because it was working when I arrived and he wasn't able to duplicate the problem. They checked the blower motor and the connection and they were both fine. He said to come back when it's not working and try not to hit a bump on the way. I'm a little frustrated. What it could be?
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I own a Toyota Venza 2013. I have lost control of my ac system. None of the controls work on the dash. The system works because the ac is running but you cant change any of the settings as well as turn it off. It seems that the panel has lost power.
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I recently purchased a 2010 Toyota Venza. I unfortunately did not test drive it enough to realize how rough a ride it has. Thinking that something was wrong I brought it back and was told that it is normal and the Venza has a very hard ride. After more research I found out that it is a common complaint. The mechanic said that its large 20" tires, long wheel base and tight suspension all add up to a very hard ride. I saw previous discussions regarding this but no real or recent answers. Can anything be done to improve the ride? I was told that the 2013 model has a better ride so they must have changed something. Would something as simple as replacing the shocks with a different type? I love the car but hate the thought of driving it for the next 5 years the way it is. I would have purchased a Ford Edge or similar car if I realized how hard the ride is.
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Just bought a 2010 Toyota Rav4 about 2 weeks ago. It rained the other day and the brakes made a grinding noise the first time I braked after starting the car but didn't make it after that. Did it again the same day, still raining, but only the first time I braked after starting the car. I have a 30 day guarantee on the vehicle and need to know quickly if the brakes are bad or not.
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I have a 2007 Prius with 130,000 miles on it. I plan to trade in about a year, maybe a little less. I have noticed my brakes grabbing. My mechanic says that the front brakes are sort of grinding and the rear brakes are grabbing. Both are worn, the rear brakes to about 30%, front brakes to 60%. They also say they will probably last out the year. Should I put new brakes on to be safe and to be able to sell the car with new brakes, or should I just wait it out and trade it in with worn brakes?
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I thought I'd be free of problems having bought a new Toyota Rav4 in Jan. In June, with less than 3K miles, my husband had a (BIG) fender bender (turns out his meds made him blank out, he was driving at 10-15 mph) (and he is going on 80). Repairs cost over 3K, but I was able to drive it to the dealer. Soon after I got it back a month later, I started hearing a brief grinding noise under the accelerator, at speeds of 20-30 mph. Mostly after I took my foot off the accelerator, once or twice after I took my foot off the brake. This noise sounds like brakes grinding, appears very sporadically and briefly. I took it to the dealer and of course they could find nothing wrong, said everything checks out. They said to bring it back when it's doing the noise. Which it does maybe once a week, for a second or two. sheesh.What to do? I actually want to start all over, I do not want to drive with my ear to the gas pedal. (My husband now only drives in town!)
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