Toyota - Tundra :: Oil Pressure Gauge Moves A Little When Accelerate
Jan 14, 2012
I had the oil changed recently in my 2008 tundra 5.7 v-8. I noticed the oil pressure gauge moving. When I started the truck, I noticed the gauge will move to the right of the indicator in the middle of the gauge and then it will go back to the middle mark on the gauge when it is warmed up. I also notice that it moves a little when I accelerate. Maybe it has done this in the past and I just have not noticed but was wondering if I should be concerned.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra V6. The problem I have with it is it hesitates. It does not happen ALL the time but it is very frequent. Sometimes it happens when I try to accelerate from a dead stop and other times while I am driving along (does not matter what speed). It will usually hesitate for a few seconds then everything is normal. The check engine light thus not come on.
I took it into Toyota. They duplicated the problem on the first test drive but did not have their equipment hooked up at the time. They kept the truck for over a week and finally got it to happen again. I guess they must have only been going on short test drives because it happens to me multiple times a day. They told me it was the throttle body and it needed to be replaced. My jaw hit the floor when they told me how much they charge to replace it. I ran this by a couple of friends who work on cars on the side and they said it sounded like the mass air flow sensor needed to be replaced. Since this was much cheaper than a throttle body, I replaced that. However, it did not solve the problem.
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Okay, 2000 Tundra (185,000 miles) starts out with usual pressure. After driving a ways pressure drops down to dangerously low and stays there (not detectable when driving, other than gauge). Mechanics measure same pressure drop using alternate pressure gauge at engine. They assumed oil pump, which would mean pulling engine, but were advised bad oil pump is very unlikely on that Tundra (and I don't think the symptoms quite suggest that), and also advised that oil suction tube could be clogged, also necessitating pulling engine, but oil has been kept fairly clean. Car also sits for long periods.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra which I purchased new. Within days of taking ownership the tire pressure warning light came on and and stayed on. This problem has continued to this day and the Toyota dealer can't seem to fix it. I know that the sensors/transmitters are on all the tires including the spare and I check the pressure and it's always within spec. For years all they did was reset the light and told me that would fix it, but within days the light comes back on. Most recently they agreed to replace the computer which receives the signals saying that was the problem. But the second time I drove it the light came back. They claim all of the tire sensors/transmitters are fine. What might be causing this and how to fix it?
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1996 Mazda Protege, 125,000 miles. Temperature gauge on dashboard moves very little.
Do I need to get this checked out, ie, if not what would happen? (I have had car in recently for other problems but no one n the shop mentioned it, even though they have had the car out for a drive).
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2008 Prius Touring. At 86,000 miles I got the red triangle of death and coasted off the interstate. Had the car towed to Toyota and they said there were no codes except it ran out of gas, even though the fuel gauge said it was 3/4 full. After running out of gas two more time I took it in and they unplugged the fuse and said it should be fine. (BTW there is no low fuel warning, just the red triangle and the every sound of wind whistling as you glide). By this point I fill up when I have traveled 300 to 350 miles, which is my fuel gauge work-around.
After running out of gas a couple more times I go back to Toyota, (we're past the 100K warranty now), they charge me $47 to rest the computer. I continue to run out of gas because the odometer has quit resetting when I refuel, so if I forget to manually rest the odometer or someone resets it by accident I mostly likely will run out of gas. Last trip in the Dealer told me I need a new gas tank for $733, I didn't do it because I felt like they are just guessing at what the issue is and don't really know. (these events involve the only two dealers in my city.)
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I'm looking to trade my '95 dodge ram 1500 with someone for their '95 grand cherokee. The GC has 190k miles on it, my truck has 155k.
I noticed when test driving the GC that the oil gauge follows the rpms of the engine. I.e. when idle the oil gauge is low-mid level. When i raise the RPMs, the gauge indicates there is more oil pumping, then when i go back to idle it drops back down too; in other words it looks like the oil jumps with RPMs.
I've never seen this type of behavior before, is this a sign of typical behavior for a jeep GC, a bad gauge, maybe an oil leak?
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I have a 94 Ford Ranger, 2WD, 5-Speed, with 2.3 engine. My temp gauge hardly moves at all... It actually appears as if it doesn't move it you don't pay close attention and were to just glance at it. I'm thinking it is most likely the temp sensor that is on the engine block as I understand there is also one that is in the line that controls the fans for the radiator. Am I approaching this in the right direction or is there something else I might need to do?
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My 2001 tundra v8 4.7 liters. Will not go past 90 miles per hour.I'm not a speed person but I like to know my truck is in top shape.Odo reads 99073 on the i way I tried pushing it to a 100 mph but it not go, what's happening to my truck...
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I have an 05 Tundra. I was backing out of my driveway and got into the street and put the truck into drive and nothing. I then tried reverse and again no movement. No prior problems with the transmission. I cannot even find the dip stick to check the fluid. What might be wrong with this trans or truck?
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I have a 2005 Tundra, 60K miles. Dealership just told me the frame is rusted out, with actual holes in frame under driver side. Said car was unsafe to drive or have on road. Called Toyota and opened case but said I was out of warranty and they were not accountable.
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So the other day i hit something on the road and all of the sudden when im coasting in gear i hear a "thududududududd" noise from mid engine.. you cant hear it when the windows are down, only when they are up and it doesn't happen in neutral or when the clutch is pressed in. also after i shut the car off and turned it back on i had a CEL for the A range vehicle speed sensor which i replaced yesterday but still the speedo doesn't work and the gas gauge is moving around bends. when letting off the gas to shift the car stops almost like hitting the brakes and shifts kind of hard. It also backfires like a shot gun in 4th gear only. I recently had a stage 2 south bend clutch put in but everything was fine after that installation.
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I can hear a "ringing" noise that appears to be coming from one of the wheels. I can hear the noise when I have my windows down and am driving at slower speeds. The noise sounds similar to a bell ringing and the sound disappears when I apply the brakes.
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My Toyota Tundra 2011, driven enough to haul a horse locally (6000 plus miles) is now unable to go above 30 mph, it was fine last week. Toyota dealer says it is both of the air injection units and switch. Of course it is out of warranty 3 months.
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2006 Toyota tundra starting problem only intermittently, id say about half the time recently it does this. Ill go to crank my truck, turn the key over and it makes a loud CLICK/thud under the hood. Lights go dim, clock shuts off etc. Turn the key off and back on, CLICK. I have to repeat this 3-4 times before starting sometimes. And once or twice the starter would turn over for 3-4 seconds before finally firing up. Ive check the battery and alternator at the local auto zone and a local dealership, both checked out fine. The starter is under the intake manifold. I have checked grounds/connections etc but dont see problem.
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I rebuilt the engine on my toyota celica. After putting everything back together there are a few bizarre symptoms I am hoping to get sorted out.
1) It only starts with starting fluid, but once it starts it will run continuously without dying.
2) The temperature gauge goes up relatively quickly, and also moves with the throttle. For example if it is as the 1/3 level and I apply throttle it will bump up. It continues to jump along with throttle play.
3) When I remove the coolant sender and/or sensor plugs, the gauge still reads the same (is this normal).
4) The fans don't turn on unless I remove the sender cable (the one with one wire and not two)
If I understand correctly the sensor with one wire is the sender and the sensor with two wires is the temp sensor. I am having a hell of a time determining the difference. The one with a single wire contact is plugged into the thermostate cover/pipe. The one with two wires is in the thermostat housing.
Did I fry the ECU somehow? What is going on?
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A few days ago my 98 Cutlass had to be towed because of a broken brake line. It was towed 35 miles to my mechanic. Two fuel lines needed to be replaces and i guess it was a real problem getting to stuff to fix. When I picked the car up tonight I noticed that the fuel gauge didn't work right. When the key is off the needle points straight down toward the floor. when I turn on the ignition, the needle moves up and pins itself against the little metal pin below the "E" and can't go any higher. The only cause I can think of is that the needle bounced over the pin while it was being towed and when I turn on the ignition it tries to move to where it is supposed to but is stopped by the pin. The only way I can think of to fix this is to turn the car upside down and rotate it counterclockwise until the needle moves back over the pin.
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Location of cabin filter 2003 toyota tundra....
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I have a strange vibration that radiates from, i think, the drive line or transmission.
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My 2003 Tundra is showing a fault light for the SRS. It only shows when the air temperature is high. After running the A/C for the drive home, I can turn off the truck and restart it and the fault light doesn't show. That seems to indicate the fault is related to cabin temperature. What is causing the fault?
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My 07 tundra starts and then stops running it does this intermittently. I recently put in new battery.
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