Toyota - Tundra :: 2007 - VSC / Check Engine And 4LO Warning Lights Are On
Dec 24, 2013
The vehicle: 2007 Tundra, 5.7, 4WD, SR5, 71K miles
The issue: The Check Engine, VSC and 4LO indicators came on abruptly within 5 minutes of the first start-up of the day and after driving ~ 1/2 mile on paved road. Weather conditions: high humidity and unseasonable high ambient temperature.
What has been done: Immediately returned home. My local "guy" stopped by with his code checker. Codes that came up: C10201 and P2440 (Wheel sensor and secondary air pump, I am unsure which is which). Codes were cleared, indicators went off. Within 0.2 mile of driving "around the block" the same indicators and codes came on. My local guy recommended a trip to the dealer for repair as he would have to get sensors/parts from Toyota and be replacing sensors until the problem was repaired (I respect him for that).
The question: what is the guesstimated cost for dealer repair? The truck can be operated in a "failure" mode and can get to the local dealer under it's own (reduced) power.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra which I purchased new. Within days of taking ownership the tire pressure warning light came on and and stayed on. This problem has continued to this day and the Toyota dealer can't seem to fix it. I know that the sensors/transmitters are on all the tires including the spare and I check the pressure and it's always within spec. For years all they did was reset the light and told me that would fix it, but within days the light comes back on. Most recently they agreed to replace the computer which receives the signals saying that was the problem. But the second time I drove it the light came back. They claim all of the tire sensors/transmitters are fine. What might be causing this and how to fix it?
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I recently bought a 2007 toyota Camry le v6 with less than 38,000 miles it currently has 39,300 miles and my check engine light is on along with the VSC and a skid control light (car with squiggle lines behind it) we have a had lots of rain here where I live and I had to drive through a couple deep water puddles. I looked up online and it said The engine light may turn on if the VSC and skid control lights are on. Could this be that the sensors maybe got wet? I don't think anything should be wrong with this car considering it's a toyota with less than 40k miles
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1) Why is my neighbor's late model Tundra chirping and flashing the lights at regular (maybe 20 second) intervals?
2) Why can I hear it a house away but my neighbor (at home) cannot?
3) Can I stop it? If it something like hey idiot, you left it unlocked with the keys in the ignition, maybe I can.
4) If I resort to violent methods to stop it, will I be subject to criminal penalties. or would a jury of my peers find it justifiable truckicide?
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My 07 tundra starts and then stops running it does this intermittently. I recently put in new battery.
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My gas cap warning light came on this morning, I thought I would fill the car in case the cap is loose. After the car was refulled to the max, the car just started, spluttered for a few seconds as if it was going to stall, then after a quick rev it ran fine to the office. The gas cap light went out, but just before I got to work the check engine light has come on.
Is this a sensor breaking down or something serious?? I only have 16k miles
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2008 Tundra 5.7 only 55K miles – What is causing an intermittent misfire at startup? It’s been running great, then 2 weeks ago when I started it up I could feel a misfire. By the time I backed out of the driveway the check engine light came on. This is what I have learned so far:
•It only happens when you start the engine and the engine is NOT at operating temperature.
•The engine code always reports misfire on Cylinder #2 I put in a new plug and swapped coils but it still reports the misfire on cylinder #2.
•Once it starts to misfire it will continue to misfire until the engine is at operating temperature and you restart the engine. NOTE: You MUST restart the engine for the misfire to go away. It will be running rough, turn engine off/on once it is at operating temperature and it's as smooth as can be, no more misfire.
•One time I started the truck, I felt the misfire and drove it to a parts store to read the code. Engine was fully warm by the time I reached the parts store. I did not power off the engine, plugged in the tester and read the code which was a misfire on cylinder 2. I cleared the code and within 2-3 seconds it logged the misfire on cylinder #2 again. Cleared the code several times and it kept reporting misfire on cylinder 2. You could also feel the misfire happening. Turned engine off, started it right back up, like before no misfire, cleared the code and it no longer reported a misfire.
•This just started intermittently happening. This morning it happened again, I drove it for about 5 min, engine was about 75% it’s normal operating temperature, powered it off/on, still had the misfire. Once engine temp reached normal temp (about 9 min), I turned off engine, started it back and like before problem was gone.
What is causing this to happen?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 - 2 wheel drive. I have 121,000 miles runs great, uses no oil at all. However, on cold mornings when I start it, there is knocking in the engine for two or three minutes. Is it serious? Is it a weak oil pump? Rod bushings? I had an '01 Tundra with 165,000 miles that never knocked.
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I have an appointment in 2 days and I'm wondering about a salvage HV battery since the car is 7 yrs old and over 116K miles.
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After reading about the possibility of the auxiliary battery being bad, I went and turned the Prius on, and then shut it off several times to reset the hybrid warning light (I had to do so in order to access the aux battery information through the MFD). It turned on without incident, and shut off fine, and after being reset the hybrid warning light shut off, as well as the red triangle light. Then, I went through the process of pulling up the battery voltage information through the MFD.
With the car off, and the lights and fans off, the battery voltage read about 10.0-10.5 V. With the lights and fan on, the voltage dropped to about 9.5 V. After getting those readings, I drove it down the road a little ways, just going about 20 mph. It seemed to work fine. The check engine light is still illuminated. With the motor running, the voltage reading was 13.2 V, and then when I got back from my test drive and shut it off, the voltage hovered at 10.6 V with the lights and fan on.
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