Toyota - Tacoma - Relay :: Horn Sounding After Truck Turned Off For Extended Period Of Time
Apr 30, 2011
My wife had the misfortune of the horn sounding each time the signal was turned on. Solved problem by not using signal... However, the horn still went off after the truck had been turned off for an extended period of time (long enough for her to leave and not hear the horn until returning a couple hours later). She was able to stop the horn by placing the vehicle in neutral (manual transmission). I have not been able to reproduce the problem. I thought it may be the "relay integration", but after removing this from the vehicle the signal does not work, but the horn still works. Is there a relay, switch, etc. that controls both of these devices?
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My 07 LE with the 2.5 has 151K on the odometer. It is an oil burner and now wants to stay on fast idle for an extended period of time. I live in the cold country so I know it will run fast at start up but it is alot longer then it used to be. It isn't working for the oil burning at all! Regarding the oil issue I tried running Pennzoil full synth and it drank it down like water! Is this a sensor problem if so which one would I look into changing.
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Was having some issues with my 2000 Passat not starting after only being turned off for a short period of time (long periods of time no problem). My check engine light came was on along with the Emissions Workshop message in the display. I took it in and had it serviced at my local repair shop. They said it was something with a temperature gauge or something to that effect that was causing it to lose a temp reading. Anyways, after the repair the car starts fine, runs great, the check engine light went off and so did the Emissions Workshop display. Then a few days later it came back on...still not having any issues with it starting but what's going on??
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How often do I need to get new shocks and struts - I've been told mine are weak Car is 10 yrs old with 165,000 mi.
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I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner that is experiencing some minor (major?) difficulty shifting properly. The truck is an automatic and stalls occasionally. Before stalling, the transmission shifts normally through all four gears, after is stalls, it only shifts through first or second for a period of time before it once again begins to shift through all four gears properly. If it stalls again, the whole process begins anew.
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I have a 2016 F350 Powerstroke fully deleted for about 3k miles. Truck was running perfectly then out of no where started running like crap and had very minimal power 500-2000rpm. Once 2000rpm hit, turbo spooled up and made power. Very odd. I cleaned out back pressure sensor, map sensor and hoses. No fix. Did a hard reset and the truck ran fine again and had low end power.
Ever since then I started hearing very odd fluttering sounds coming from what I think is the turbo. Also noticed my OEM boost gauge doesn't work. No reading from it.
The flutter only comes on when the truck goes under load for a short period of time and then I let off the throttle. It seems to running fine other then that and maybe a little bit more sluggish then normal. Any things I can check before I put it back to stock and bring it to the dealer?
MODS:
NO Limit EGR Delete
Flo-Pro 5" Straight
S&B Intake
SCT Livewire w/ custom tunes
Also, I had a lot of problems with my live wire software. I have to send it back to SCT to get warranty problems fixed which I'll be sending out Monday. They think my tuner is stuck in demo mode for some off reason.
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Twice now my 2001 Echo has overheated when I was sitting and idling it for an extended time with the air conditioner running. The temperature outside was in the nineties. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. After I let it cool down the first time added coolant and drove it, it didn't happen again until today months later. Is this normal?
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I'm new to diagnosing AC issues in automotive applications but understand how it works and am mechanically capable. Anyway, when i turn the AC on, to max or normal the fan blows with no cold at all. I did notice a clicking relay sound under the truck only when the AC was turned on, it happens every 2-3 seconds. Does my system need recharged, or is it a bad relay? Also, is there a guide on recharging my sig rig?
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After my car has sit for a couple of days, it doesn't like to start. By, " doesn't like to start", I mean it doesn't even click when the key is turned. I put a new battery in it but that didn't work. If I get it to start it seems to always start after coming out of a store (knock on wood). This only seems to be a problem after it has sit for a while.
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The truck has 230,000 miles and has a squeal that sounds like a belt but it's not. I have put the truck in neutral coasted with the engine off and the noise is still there. The noise only happens when the weather is cold and only when the truck is coasting. Under acceleration the sound goes away.
Toyota Tacoma Prerunner 2003 (2.7)...
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I have a 1998 Camry. My directional light and click correctly when I tun them on. When I GENTLY turn off the directional signal, I hear the relay continue to click, however the dash lights do not blink, nor do the outside lights. If I let the directional lever jump back into place, the problem does not occur. Is it the switch in the column, or the relay?
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Where the horn is mounted on 2.0T? The regular "honk" horn, not the separate alarm horn. Horn is sounding a bit muffled and I wanted to check for a loose bracket or debris/wet leaves, etc. I took a quick look and couldn't spot it.
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A couple months ago my VW Passat started locking itself and sounding the horn spontaneously, and now it is rolling down the windows randomly as well. My key isn't in the ignition when this happens. I got locked out once which was annoying, but now the windows rolling down make it a security issue and I really don't want the windows down in a parking lot during the next snowstorm. The heater quit working last week, too.
The car is only 2 years old and the dealership said they can fix the heater but they aren't sure what would be wrong with the spontaneous horn/window/locking problems.
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Ok on Sunday I washed my car, dried it including opening the hood and trunk as I normally do. On Monday morning I pushed my remote twice like normal and started to walk away but then i noticed I heard no horn. So I hit the lock button again twice in a row this time looking at the car and this time I noticed that the lights didn't flash either, however I could hear the locks lock. Just to make sure I tried to open the doors and they were locked.
So today I got out the manual and looked in section 4/12 - 4/18. It says that one lock button pressed lights flash, within 4 seconds hit again and lights flash and horn will honk once. I never saw anything about deactivation of this feature... So Just to make sure i went around and opened all doors, trunk and hood, then closed them all. I tried again to arm the alarm, hit the lock button twice and again no horn honk or flashing lights. So I finally opened up the hood and wanted to see if the hood pressure switch was maybe out of alignment. looked fine then i held it down and pressed the lock button on the remote, and BAM the lights flashed, pressed it again and lights flashed and horn honked once. Held it down for about 20-25 seconds till i saw the alarm light start flashing released it and the alarm set off. Next I closed the hood tried again, but once again the lights didn't flash and no horn....
Started looking at the top of the hood where the pressure switch would touch touch when closed, and noticed that it looks like maybe I am missing a rubber stopper on the hood that presses the switch, maybe when i was drying under the hood I knocked it off? Or maybe my pressure switch needs to be adjusted?
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I bought 2013 Passat TDI 5 weeks ago and passed 2600 miles already, just curious when the 1st oil change should be, my dealer told me that it scheduled at 10,000 miles is that normal?
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I have a 2005 Excursion 6.0 ... .. A few months back the horn started sounding on its' own in the night, so I pulled the fuse... .. Then the Cruise Control stopped working. I have googled references to clockspring failure and these problems... ..
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I just purchased a new Prius a couple days ago. When is the first scheduled maintenance interval? My dealership told me 10,000 miles for the first oil change? I've always been under the impression that you need to do the first service as soon as possible with a brand new vehicle? To rid the oil off metal shavings and break-in oil.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. This past month, the A/C tends to stop cooling for a period of time. I took it to one shop and they recycled the freon, but the problem continued. I took it to another shop and they also recycled the freon. It is worse when the outside temperature is over 95 degrees. Additionally, the second shop hooked it up to a computer and said the computer is telling them that the car is getting hot and shutting down the compressor, but the air conditioning system is fine. The car is not overheating. They proposed changing the thermostat for a huge price so I declined.
I've read online that it is possible that this could be caused by a thermister or a low pressure sensor and am considering taking the car to an auto electric shop for diagnosis. What else this could be? The radiator was replace a few months ago.
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The problem I'm having with this vehicle is that, it will start up just fine most of the time if I just hop in my after and haven't drove it for a while, however after I drive lets say 20 min+ and then decide to turn the car off and go back to turn it on, it just wont, it will turn over and its getting power but it won't follow through to start the engine, took it to a place by my house for 3 days and they said its probably the fuel filter but they couldn't give me a straight answer, what it most likely is? Its a 2001 Ford Taurus...
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I purchased my 2012 SE in October, and since that time, I've noticed that after it has sat for a few hours between starts (first thing in the morning, leaving work, etc.) it takes longer than other times for it to crank-over and start. At other times, it starts right away. I know that the fuel pump kicks in when you open the door initially, and perhaps I am trying to start it too soon. This is my first VW, so, before I worry that something needs to be checked out (due for the "courtesy check" anyway) I wanted to make sure this was not a common thing, or something I am doing wrong (didn't think I could mess up starting the thing...)
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I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee with 225,000 miles (hooyah!) on an I-6 . After driving for long distances (at least an hour on the road) then idling for extended periods of time, it seems it starts misfiring. RPMs drop to about 500 and will not rev past 1200 without dying completely.
This has happened a few times in the following scenario:We have 3 kids and often visit family out of state. We'll drive for several hours before pulling off at a rest area. To minimize the amount of time spent off the road and to save the hassle of unloading/loading all the kids, we'll leave the car running (to keep heat/cool air in) and either myself or my wife will run in to use the restroom and get snacks. The vehicle may idle for 10 minutes before the issue presents itself. It seems that if we turn the vehicle off and rest for a few (3-5) minutes, the problem will resolve itself and we can be on our way with no more issues.
Check Engine light is on but only throws a code for an EVAP leak. I don't know a whole lot about cars. I thought it could be time to replace spark plugs but this issue doesn't happen often and it seems only in these specific circumstances.
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