Toyota - Tacoma :: Changed Fuel Filter And It Ran Fine But Now Would Not Start
Jan 23, 2007
I have a 2000 v6 Tacoma.Three days ago I could only get it up to 60mph. Then it started running fine.I drove it about 100 miles an no problem I drove it a litte the next day with no problem.The third day I could only go about 40 mph.I changed the fuel filter and it ran fine. I went out to start it and it would not start. It has spark. I also unhooked the fuel line and it shot gas every where. Hook the gas line back up and nothing. It will turn over and not start.
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2002 E-250 with the 4.6 V-6. Pulled the 30 amp fuse, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the fuse, now the truck wont start. Checked the fuse and the kill switch under the passenger kick cover, all ok. Cranks and cranks but wont fire. No problem prior to changing the filter. Even swithed out the relay with another, no luck.
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I changed the fuel filter. I can hear the pump going and the filters getting gas to it. The car is turning over but it just isn't starting I cannot think of what else it might be and it is stressing me out a ton.
2002 buick rendevous...
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My 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
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I bought a used 2007 Tacoma truck from a Toyota dealer in July with 53,000 miles. After driving it for 5000 miles, I took it to my local mechanic for an oil change. He, being the good mechanic that he is, checked the air filter. To his surprise, there was no filter element in there! He put one in and told me about his discovery. My question to you is this - how much damage could have been done to the motor in the 5000 miles I drove it without an air filter? I intend to tell the dealer, but first I'd like to know what effects this missing filter could have on the truck so I know how much to ask for from the dealer.
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An attachment point, on the front lower frame, broke, allowing the window to drop. I had the frame welded and put it all back together. The window went up and fine. The next time I tried to lower the windows, neither side would work. I checked the fuses. They were all good. I changed out the driver's side master control switch because some of the button contacts were corroded. This did not work. The window lock button is on the off position and the power door locks, which are on the master control switch, work fine. Could it be the relay?
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R32 turbo had new forged internals to get rid of old set up l & changed tune 4" maf open filter I am now getting smell of fuel inside car only when I am stationary at junctions etc.
BTW walbro in line fuel pump.. vagom no faults .. + did not get this before with stock airbox with turbo set up..
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My sister has a 98 chevy cavalier and it is sputtering i changed the fuel filter but that did not work.
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My 1990 Toyota 4runner won't stay running after I changed the air filter. Starts up for couple sec then dies. It ran the same morning then had problem after changing filter.
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I have rough idle problem after changing spark plugs, fuel filter and battery. There was no rough idle problem before this work was done. What could be wrong. Once the speed is above 20 mph it seem to run fine but at stops it vibrates and seem like it may stall!
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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I recently bought a 2003 Toyota Tacoma with the 2.4 L engine and 160K miles. It seems to run fine. I took it into my Mechanics Files mechanic to have a couple of things done and he recommended doing a fuel system flush for like $300. My daughter has a 2008 Yaris w/ 100K. She took it to her mechanic recently (on the other coast) and he recommended a fuel system flush (for about $150!!--and she's on the West Coast, I'm in VA). She thinks her gas mileage is a little off (only getting 38 mpg !! ??), but otherwise the car is running fine. If these vehicles are running well, is there any reason to get this flush done? The idea that it may increase gas mileage if otherwise running well seems doubtful to me.
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I have a '98 Sienna that's still running well (271k miles) but about a year ago it started acting strange, just a rare but minor irregularity in the normally smooth engine. A few months ago I changed the fuel and air filters, but that didn't affect it. So I tried changing the tank pick-up filter and confirming that the tank didn't contain any gunk. Again, no change. Since then the engine light has come on, but it still runs well enough for now. My fuel pressure is solid (manual specs, 50psi I think). I'm not sure if it's too rich or too lean, but I'm convinced it's fuel related unless someone has a better idea.
My suspects: fuel pressure regulator (in the fuel tank), clogged fuel injector(s).
Other potential clues: 270,000 miles on the original engine. No smoke (that I've noticed). After changing the filters my fuel pressure was perfectly solid at manual recommendations (50psi if i remember correctly). New battery, new fuel cap (factory cap; sometimes store-bought ones don't vent correctly). Sometimes the fluctuation goes away for a day or two, while other times it's hard to accelerate uphill at highway speeds. The issue is not clearly affected by temperature (same when 40° or 80°). It was much less noticeable when I drove to Montana this winter; they have a winter blend, which might have masked the problem (or the higher altitude). It's possible I just didn't notice it as that drive killed my steering pump and a CV boot, so my focus was on other problems at the time. I found today that can I make it shudder a little at highway speeds: letting up the pedal for a moment and gently giving it a little more gas causes a gentle shudder, and very rarely what sounds like a small muffled backfire.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I bought it used in the spring of 2009. I drove it for a few months without any problems and one day this problem developed. It won't start on the first attempt. Or it will start and then immediately die. It will take two or three tries to get it running.
I took it in to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong. I got a tune-up anyway and it drove like a champ. Until the next day when the problem came back. This persisted for a few weeks more and then went away.
This last summer it started happening again and continued up through October and went away again. I think the problem seems to happen when it's hot in the summer.
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My 1995 Toyota Tacoma won't start every time I turn the key. Sometimes it starts right up, but recently, more often than not it just gives a single click when the clutch pedal is pressed in just about all the way.
I replaced the neutral safety clutch switch and it started every time for about a week, then it went back to not starting reliably.
I'm growing tired of making sure I park on a hill each time I park.
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I have driven small Toyota 4X4 pickups since 1980 including an '89 for the past 25 years and > 200,000 miles. One day a couple of months ago it would crank but would not start although battery and starter seem fine. I did some basic testing eventually measuring the ignition coil resistance (within published range) and inspecting the distributor cap (looked fine). Upon reassembly, it started right up and ran fine for a few weeks. I hadn't really done anything beside cleaning the rotor and cap contacts, moving around the wiring while in the process.
A few weeks ago I was driving in traffic just a few miles from home and it momentarily lost power twice within a mile. Check engine light was noted the second time. I was busy watching the cars ahead of me the first time. Both times it resumed running on it's own and I continued on. A couple of weeks later it died three times within a few miles from home.
The first two times I was able to pull off out of traffic. Several minutes later, I was able to restart the engine. The third time I was stuck in a turn lane at an intersection, police arrived right away and the vehicle was towed to the dealer where I had purchased it only two miles away. They have been unable to reproduce the problem but believe they have eliminated the fuel filter and fuel pump as the cause. They have driven the vehicle several miles and left it running for an hour and a half with no problems noted. No diagnostic codes were recovered.
They now want me to retrieve the undiagnosed, unrepaired vehicle. We know it will fail again, probably under the worst possible circumstances. In heavy traffic, a multi-vehicle crash with associated injuries or deaths could result. It's like if the vehicle itself doesn't tell them what to do, they don't know how to approach such a problem on their own any more. I'm not in a position to pour unlimited funds into a vehicle I have recently replaced (with a 2014 Tacoma). There must be a logical approach beyond checking the fuel filter and pump but they seem clueless. I can't safely drive the vehicle and won't offer it for sale until the problem is identified and corrected.
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I have a Toyota Tacoma 4 wheel drive it has a v6 motor. here is whats going on...sometimes it starts just fine,other times i think when it gets cold i try and start it.... it will crank over just fine but does not start, then i turn the key off and try and start it again and it starts just fine,sometimes when its acting up i try starting it and after trying to start it after 3 tries ir runs rough for just a sec or too.
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I own a 2008 camry 2.4 A/T and want to replace the fuel filter, where its located ?
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I have a 2008 manual transmission toyota tacoma about 50k miles. I am in vegas for the summer and since being here in the last couple weeks when I just start driving and go from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a grinding sound. Also a little bit when in 3rd gear. After the first couple minutes of driving it doesnt do that at all. What it may be or what I can do to alleviate the problem without a shop selling me a new transmission.
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After replacing the fuel filter, O2 sensor, and checking plugs and wires and the rotor, my 91 toyota corolla is still sputtering and its driving me nuts.
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I bought a remfg denso starter for my 2000 toyota tacoma prerunner 3.4L V6. I spent hours without success trying to get the old starter out. Brought it to a shop and had the new one installed. When I do a cold start, there is a screech at the end when the engine catches that sounds exactly like starting a car that is already running. This happens on cold starts only. Warm starts work fine. Due to the fact that I bought this part separate, having to pay to have a new one installed again is annoying to say the least. I spent another 4 hours today trying to get it out without success. See YouTube link for video of the noise. It's actually the quietest one yet.
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