Toyota - Tacoma :: TRD Wheels Binding Up?
May 13, 2015
I have a 2013 Tacoma TRD with 18k miles, totally stock after driving awhile intermittently the front left wheel has been locking up like I tapped the brake just on that wheel. I've taken it to Toyota and they cant duplicate the problem. This last weekend I drove several hundred miles and the right side started doing it about two to three seconds after the left side for about five minutes then ran fine. It actually makes a chirping noise and slightly jerks the wheel in that direction. This has only happened going over 65mph. Since Toyota claims to have never seen this problem there basically telling Me to drive the truck until it gets worse. They checked the brakes and bearings out.
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I have a 01 Chrysler Sebring 4D Sedan. I have been working on cars many years, never done tie rods. This my first attempt, I messed something up I believe. I replaced both inner tie rods and outer ends. I followed what I thought was correct procedure., counted turns on ends coming off. Installed new ones the same amount of turns. Before I did this the steering was fine. Now when I turn sharp to the right or left, like turning in to a driveway, I get an awful binding grinding noise, and I can feel it shimmy in the wheel. It will even stop the car going hard right. I can see evidence of rubbing on the CV boot closest to the wheel on the pass side. I assume I messed up somewhere with setting the steering when I installed the Tie rod ends to the wheel hubs.
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So I'm new to the all time awd car thing. I came from a 4x4 truck which 4x4 was never engaged on pavement or in tight cornering. When maneuvering my is250 awd in tight spots ie. parking lots and the front wheels are at full lock in either forward or reverse there is a slight binding/grinding feeling or faint noise. Is this normal on an awd car or Lexus specific??? Did a quick search and didn't find much about this issue. I'm pretty sure its not tire rub.....stock set up.
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This is the first winter I'm driving my truck. I put it in in 4x4 HIGH the other night due to the snow (and I wanted to check out everything).
Seemed to work fine until I was backing into a parking spot doing a full lock turn. It didn't seem to move. I gave it a little more throttle and it "released" like it was stuck or going over an obstacle. Happened again when I did a full turn backing into my driveway (this time turning the opposite way).
It seems to work fine going forward with tight turns. Also and it doesn't "bind" in 4x2 mode. I haven't tried 4x4 LOW yet ... I guess I don't want to wreck anything if it's not operating properly. Is this normal?
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I drive a 1997 Toyota Camry with 210,000 miles on it. Recently, my brakes were grinding. My ex-mechanic father said he would replace them. When he took the wheel off, he found that the calipers were bound and had been for awhile, as the rotors and pads were metal on metal (whoops). Both sides were completely replaced- pads, rotors, and calipers (he figured if one caliper was binding, the other was or could be soon, though the wear wasn't as bad). He bled the brakes and things were ok for about a month and a half.
My new issue is that the brakes are binding on my drive home from work (after it sits outside for 7-10 hours). The car lugs along. I pull over, try pumping the pedal (which is very stiff) and then make my way home, where my boyfriend takes the car around the block and does something magic and the brakes are no longer stuck. They aren't stuck the next morning, but are when I get in the car at the end of the work day. The wheel wells smell strongly of burning rubber as well.
Things we have checked : We've jacked up both front wheels and the tires spin. They spin less easily when the brake binding problem is present, but they still spin. We've checked the suction, the hoses that connect the booster to the engine, and the brake booster- all appear ok. The brake fluid levels are fine. The pedal remains stiff when you put the car in neutral and even when you turn it off. So what do I do next? We're semi-handy and I'd like to drive this car a bit longer, though I've started the replacement car search.
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I've got a 1996 Tacoma - manual transmission, 4 cylinder, 2.7 liter engine with close to 170,000 miles on it - owned it for 10 years and 100,000 miles. Wonderful, great truck. Except.....
It has two starting problems and I can't seem to sort them out. The first is it's incredibly hard to start when the outside air is hot. Living in San Francisco, I usually forget about this problem until I drive to the central valley to visit my mom in August. Nothing like coming out of the rest stop, trying to start the engine and then having the feeling of doooh! again!. Seems to be worse when the outside air temp is over 85 or 90 degrees and the engine has been running than sits for 5-10 minutes. Cranks fine but won't catch. When it finally catches, it's like it's really slow to fire - can't quite explain it, but it's like it's doing a lot of thinking about actually running and has to talk itself into the idea. Can take 5-10 minutes to finally get it going, but usually 30 seconds to a minute. Always worried this'll be the time it doesn't want to go. My mechanic has looked at it a few times - but it's almost impossible to recreate in San Francisco when I get home due to the lack of warm days.
Second problem is trouble cold starting. When I come out in the morning, the engine takes two or three attempts to get it to start. Once it again, it cranks fine, but it's as if there's no fuel getting to the engine. If I just keep cranking, it won't fire but if I crank it, turn it off, crank it, turn it off and crank it again it'll always catch on the second or third go. Once the engine is at temp, it seems like less of a problem and easier starting. My mechanic say's "It's an old truck and it always starts eventually, so don't worry about it."
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I have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with a manual transmission that will not go into gear. How can you tell if it is the clutch or the slave cylinder that is bad?
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I have a wobble in steering at 55 mph and have gone thru 2 sets of tires. After 1st set i changed front struts, no luck . When i rotate tires from rear to front it goes away for 6 months and tires start to wear wavy and wobble starts.
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My 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I bought it used in the spring of 2009. I drove it for a few months without any problems and one day this problem developed. It won't start on the first attempt. Or it will start and then immediately die. It will take two or three tries to get it running.
I took it in to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong. I got a tune-up anyway and it drove like a champ. Until the next day when the problem came back. This persisted for a few weeks more and then went away.
This last summer it started happening again and continued up through October and went away again. I think the problem seems to happen when it's hot in the summer.
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My 2002 Tacoma has recently been experiencing transmission trouble. Between 45-60 MPH at various revs, the truck begins to shudder and shake. The severity depends on how aggressively I accelerate. After several weeks of this, the check engine light came on. It has remained on since, except when it flashes if I accelerate too quickly. Throughout the shuddering, the revs remain constant. By roughly 60-70 mph, the truck runs smoothly again. In a (possibly) unrelated note, the parking brake indicator is lit almost constantly, particularly in wet or cold weather, although the brake is not engaged.
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I just bought a 2003 Tacoma 2.4l engine and it has terrible gas mileage.I haven't checked the numbers yet, drive for but it cost medrive for 2 hours. Where do I start looking? The air filter is clean, the tires have plenty of air.
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I changed the coil on cylinder 4 on my 2004 V6 Tacoma and the p0304 code keeps coming back along with the hesitation and missing when I accelerate. The wires were replaced a month ago. What now?
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My 1987 Toyota motorhome has an inconsistent shimmy which starts between 47 and 55 mph. This is a one ton chassis. I replaced the front tires and had them balanced.An independent mechanic said that everything was tight and could not find the problem. I took it to Toyota and they also said everything was tight. They checked steering, suspension, wheel bearings, brakes, and U joints. When the shimmy starts, accelerating or decelerating does not stop the shimmy.At one time I took it rapidly from 55mph down to a full stop. As I slowed the shimmy and thumping got more intense all the way down to a dead stop.The shimmy will start on smooth, even pavement and hitting bumps does NOT seem to start the shimmy.The RV has 75000 miles on it.
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So my 2006 toyota tacoma prerunner v6 was working fine i could drive it a bit but after i changed the drive belt it starts and shuts off after 3-4 seconds. if you accelerate immediately after you turn it on then it wont stop till you stop accelerating...
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I'm looking at an extremely low mileage Truck. Original owned it for 3yrs drove it 200 miles. Sold at auction and now has almost 300 miles on it. It is a 2007.
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I have a 94 4x4 v6 Toyota pickup the check engine light came on while I was driving it 20 miles later it shifted from 5 into 4.the tranny shifts smoothly into the other gears with no problem but now it won't go in the 4th or 5thmy transmission fluid is passed a full line...
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My airbag light came on in my 2006 Tacoma, had it fixed, as my dealer told me:
1. It would not deploy during a accident.
2. Could not get a inspection sticker.
3. It was not covered by my warranty.
4. It was diagnosed as a faulty spiral cable.
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My Toyota Tacoma is reporting (via an affordable OBD-II scanner) the same P0420 code: First as a regular code, then as a pending code. What could that mean?
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I bought a used 2007 Tacoma truck from a Toyota dealer in July with 53,000 miles. After driving it for 5000 miles, I took it to my local mechanic for an oil change. He, being the good mechanic that he is, checked the air filter. To his surprise, there was no filter element in there! He put one in and told me about his discovery. My question to you is this - how much damage could have been done to the motor in the 5000 miles I drove it without an air filter? I intend to tell the dealer, but first I'd like to know what effects this missing filter could have on the truck so I know how much to ask for from the dealer.
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I get a "dinging sound" like a warning when my truck is places in Four Wheel Dive Low. I do not hear the sound in 4 WD High. The sound will not stop and it makes things rather annoying when climbing up the huge hill leading out from my property. I check the Owner's Manual and it says nothing about a dinging sound; or at least I didn't find anything.
2006 Taco, Automatic, 127,000 miles
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