My 2011 toyota tacoma auto transmission downshifts on any slight decline, even to the point of losing traction in the rear end if I am on slippery pavement. How can I disable the electronic engine brake?
View 5 Replies2002 Hyundai Accent with automatic transmission. This problem happens only if I floor the gas gas on the highway (trying to pass somebody or get out of the way in a hurry) or if I apply too much gas after coasting around a sharp turn. My car will then downshift with a jerk and an audible THUNK!. Right now I just avoid those situations and it shifts through all its gears fine, it only happens when I cause a sudden downshift. Transmission fluid level and color fine.
View 1 RepliesI have a 94 4x4 v6 Toyota pickup the check engine light came on while I was driving it 20 miles later it shifted from 5 into 4.the tranny shifts smoothly into the other gears with no problem but now it won't go in the 4th or 5thmy transmission fluid is passed a full line...
View 1 RepliesI was told that fixing the reverse gear can be done without dropping the transmission. Is there anywhere I can see a video of this? My shifter locked up out of nowhere and when I got it back loose it started clicking in reverse only when I back up.
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota Tacoma 5 speed sometimes makes a squeaking noise when I let off the accelerator, most noticeably at speeds of between 25-35mph. If I press on the accelerator, the squeaking stops...it seems like it has to be related to the transmission. I was told it may be the U joint...
View 1 RepliesSo, I bought the truck used and everything about this truck is great minus the shifting difficulties in first. With the truck at a dead stop, the clutch depressed, and the shifter in neutral it can be near impossible to shift into 1st (it's possible with a lot - emphasis on a lot - of force). No grinding, clashing, knocking in the shift knob - it just wont go into gear. I can shift into 2nd-5th and reverse without too much difficulty. If the truck is in motion, once the vehicle gets between 2-5mph I can easily downshift into 1st. However, if I shift out of 1st and let the truck sit for, say, 5 seconds it is often very challenging to get the truck back into 1st.
I have tried to look up this problem online with limited success. What I found was it could be caused by:- something wrong with the clutch installation- a need to bleed the clutch (it's hydraulic and, although the reservoir is full, the fluid is a bit dirty)- perhaps a faulty clutch master cylinder- play in the clutch linkage- a broken spring in the pressure plate- a bearing that is starting to go out- worn synchros in 1st.
I am a machinist, not a mechanic, so it's hard for me to evaluate these ideas (beyond the cost associated with each). Given my limited knowledge of transmissions and my good mechanic friend's opinion, I think it's a broken spring in the pressure plate.
1990 Toyota Pickup 4x4 manual transmission. This is the original transmission in the truck, it has not been rebuilt (but has been maintained with regular fluid changes), and has a tad over 158,000 miles on it.
Why my 2010 auto trans 4cyl Camry often feels like someone is applying the foot brake when I take my foot off the accelerator? Is it the auto trans downshifting? When I feel it occur and slip it into neutral, it releases and I coast freely again. It's really annoying sometimes especially as I've been driving a 1995 Camry auto for the past 15 years which does not do this.
View 14 RepliesDad has a Hyundai Accent that hasn't had the best service history. After discovering this I started doing minor stuff (oil & filter, spark plugs, etc) on the car. The car has done 119,000km and about 2 months ago I decided to change the auto trans fluid and filter, I don't think its ever been done before and the fluid was pretty bad. I followed the tutorials exactly and everything was fine until yesterday. It seems the car get stuck in 3rd and downshifts badly when coming to a stop. When I last drove it I got home and quickly opened up the hood. I could see smoke coming from somewhere near the trans and there was a bad smell. We haven't driven the car since and I don't know what the problem is. I've checked on google and some people have used a scanning tool to get the error code, but the car doesn't throw a check engine light so will the error code be there?
View 12 RepliesHaving downshift problems? The dealer has "flashed" the software 3 times and the hesitation still occurs.
View 11 RepliesI am getting to the point with this car that I can't stand driving it This thing where the transmission downshifts as I slow down and come to a red light is the most obnoxious feeling I've ever experienced in a car. What's worse, is when I go to speed up again and it's in the middle of one of its downshifts and hick up so bad it feels like it's can fall out of the bottom of the car. I'm done trying to deal with Toyota dealerships, all they do is tell me that Toyotas don't have transmission problems and that my car is fine unless it kicks on a light.
I feel like if this transmission was reprogrammed to act more like a normal transmission Like the electronically controlled transmission that was in the 1995 Alexis that I sold a few months ago, or my wife's 2006 solara or the 2008 I asked to 50 I used to have, the car would be fine. But this thing is neurotic, jerky, and unpredictable.
I have a 2012 Camry with the 4 cyl. engine & auto transmission and get 33 to 35 mpg on trips, runs fine, smoothly and good power. The only downside about the car is that it will downshift one gear an what I consider to be very minor rises, and if a bit steeper will downshift another gear. This occurs when I am using the cruise control, when not using the cruise control I can easily maintain speed without the downshift. I assume that it causes no harm, at least I hope so, but it is very annoying and disconcerting to me. Can this be rectified by recalibration of the cars computer?
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2007 Limited that we love everything about except the way the transmission downshifts to first gear when it seems to me it should stay in second. My inlaws have a 2007 XLS and it doesn't do this. This is our third Avalon and the only one to do this. The dealer we bought from says this is normal but I strongly disagree. Is there a service bulletin on this or what else can be done.
View 2 RepliesI've noticed lately in auto mode (not in sport mode) when I'm going downhill on a section (doing maybe 45-50 mph) of road and apply the brakes, the transmission wants to downshift automatically to 5th gear. I know in Sport mode if you are not using paddle shifters this seems normal. I don't think this is normal in just auto mode, non sport.
I don't think mine is normal as I don't remember it downshifting this much in auto mode. I'm thinking fluid level needs to be checked. I know there is a sensor in the transmission that senses the angle of the car so not sure if it's being overly aggressive or not.
I bought a 2003 Jetta with a 5 speed automatic transmission (09A tiptronic) but it upshifts and downshifts really bad, it doesn't matter if it's cold or warm. After reading a lot of posts in here I thought that what was wrong with the car was the valve body on it, so I bough a re-manufactured valve body and replaced the old one. When it was in the shop I was told the wiring harness was burnt/fried so they replaced the harness too. I got the car back and it still does the exact same thing, so I don't know if the transmission is bad or maybe it can be a bad TCM. What could be wrong with it?
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 VW jetta has 139k on it. Whenever I come to a hard-ish stop or almost-stop, the transmission downshifts to 1st and won't get out of it unless i play with the tiptronic mode selector and coax it to upshift. it shifts well and works well in gingerly driving other than in this circumstance. i took it to a shop and they say (as they always do) it needs a new tranny. I'm wondering out loud if there is some kind of mounting instability issue that could explain this. This is definitely a case of needing a new transmission. I have read a bunch about solenoids being the culprit in general shifting problems, but not this exact set of symptoms and circumstances.
View 1 Replies2012 2.5 SE Auto 53,000 miles ... A few days ago I started getting very hard downshifts and long upshifts. The downshifts were hard enough that the person at the dealer didn't make it out of the parking lot on the test drive. Most noticeable from 3-2 and 2-1. 1-2 is hard and 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5 take a few seconds to happen. No lights or limp mode.
In recent months I was getting a thump about a second or two after coming to a stop. Enough of a thump that the car would move forward if I didn't have my foot firmly on the brake. They flashed something(the ECU?) claiming there was a TSB for my complaint but it didn't seem to make a difference. I bought the car with 40,000 and the trans never felt right to me. I had them change the fluid just before 50,000 so they couldn't deny a claimed based on failure to maintain.
If I understand correctly my 2004 Expedition has the 4R75E transmission. We are experiencing a clunk upon acceleration when the truck downshifts from 4th to 2nd. I had the fluid & filter changed, flushed the transmission with cleaner. It still does it but not all the time. I turned OD off and I didn't notice the problem when shifting from 3 to 2.
View 1 Replies2001 expedition, 198,000 miles. Got p0781 code ,1-2 shift error. replaced the accumulator valve with a factory tech valve body. Pan was clean, some gray material on the magnet but not bad. 1-2 worked fine after vacuum swap, but when trying to shift from 2nd to 3rd gear, the transmission downshifts hard all the way to a stop, like the brakes are on.
I can manually drive in 1st and and 2nd but when I put it in drive it will downshift/brake instead of shifting from 2nd to 3rd. pulled the main valve body and 2-3 and 3-4 shift valves seem good, no sticking. 3 other valves were sticking. i think they are the Solenoid regulator valve , and coast clutch shift valve, and low/rev modulator. Could they be causing the hard downshift/braking?
I've noticed that when I'm coasting to a stop and my speed gets to about 27 MPH, the transmission downshifts (RPMs increase) until I reach about 22 MPH. I'm not applying the brakes at the time.
It's a bit annoying as it sometimes bleeds off just enough speed that I need to accelerate to reach the point I was planning to stop at. Is this normal?
Car is a 2001 Accent 1.6L 4 door automatic with about 130,000 miles on it.
Transmission shifts correctly into reverse, drive, neutral as well as manually shifting into 2nd and 1st. When in drive I will accelerate perfectly through 1st gear, shifts smoothly into 2nd gear then the problem arises. The car will shift ok into 3rd, but if I let off the gas to coast to a light or a corner, etc, the transmission physically downshifts or locks up in 3rd (like driving a stick, ie the car has drag like the converter is locked instead of freely coasting). It feels like 3rd gear but could be 2nd. When I go to accelerate again without coming to a stop the car has this same feeling of drag with no power and speeds up very slowly (almost like i am pulling something behind the car or am in a gear that is too high). If I give it enough gas to force a downshift it really slams that downshift. While the car accelerates through the rpm range after this downshift it will rev past the normal up-shift rpm until it finally slams into the higher gear. Or if i hold the gas steady at the higher rpm the car will suddenly slam into the higher gear. after all of this nonsense the car drives perfect through to OD. The problem is much worse going uphill and is consistent every time it is driven.
Also, sometimes the car would shake and vibrate when hitting the gas during this "drag feeling" until i let go and did it again. This is pretty random compared to the main problem but also seems to happen while the car is in 2nd or 3rd. This has been happening for about 5 months now and as far as i know was sudden. And on another note it suddenly was shifting fine the other day while driving it. I haven't driven it since then but this completely stumped me, as most problems will do when they magically disappear.
There is no check engine light, OD works fine and the car does not go into the safety mode where it will shift to 3rd gear on the highway. It's city driving that is the real headache (2nd and 3rd gear difficulties). Would the pulse generators cause this? bad TCM? i haven't scanned anything yet but will be within the next few days(at pep boys or similar) as well as ohming out pga and pgb. i have found resistance readings for pgb but nothing for pga, what should pga read? fluid is also within acceptable amount and color.
My initial thoughts were dirty or stuck solenoids/valves in the valve body and i was going to do a filter and fluid change with a quick valve body cleaning and check. But after researching on here I am starting to think it may be electrical. The only reason I put my scenario up is because it seems that everybody else who is having a similar problem is also having the "no reverse" or "shifting into 3rd on the highway" problems while i am not. On a random note, for my own piece of mind, how do the pulse generators work? Are they just reading ticks on a gear cog in the tranny or something? fluid flow?
I have a 2006 Chryler Town & Country with the 3.8L engine. The car has 170K miles on it and I change the fluids/filters as recommended. I have never changed the plugs and wires though, or the fuel filter. The car starts and idles normally, and no issues driving in-town or on the highway.
Recently I have noticed a loss of power when I give it more gas and the transmission downshifts. The engine revs up but the power doesn't really increase and it makes a low growling kind of sound. The engine also starts to hesitate at around 3000 RPM if I rev it in neutral. I am thinking it could be the plugs/wires, fuel filter or air filter (even though the air filter is less was installed at 163K miles.