Toyota - Tacoma :: 4 Cylinder 5 Speed - Sticking Clutch Pedal When Pushed To The Floor
May 27, 2016
I have a 2007 Tacoma 4 cylinder 5 speed. The clutch pedal started sticking about a month ago and has only happened a hand full of times. When the pedal is pushed to the floor it would stick, I thought it was hanging up on the floor mat at first but that was not the case. I went out to move the truck today and the pedal immediately stuck to the floor. Like usual I tapped the pedal kind of on the side to get it to release. the pedal then came back up. But now it wont push back in at all!!! There is only 1/2" of travel on the pedal and stops solid. It's like it is binding up on something. The spring seems to be in place the right way and nothing that I can see obviously wrong.
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My 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
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The clutch on my 2003 Toyota Tacoma has been acting funny for a while. I have to pull the pedal back up with the top of my foot about half the time, otherwise it acts like the clutch isn't all the way disengaged when I push the pedal to the floor. The master and slave cylinders have both been replaced as well as the clutch pedal mechanism itself (thought it might be the spring). I adjusted the push rod a little bit and it seems to have worked slightly but it's definitely still a problem.
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My brake pedal is sticking down every time I push it in. I tried replacing the spring that was in there with a stronger one and sprayed the whole unit down with an all purpose silicon lubricant. It seemed to work a little but the problem is far from solved. It seems like it is sticking somewhere further away from the pedal. Master Cylinder maybe? I selected Tacoma because it's the closest option to my truck, but it's actually a 77 pickup/hilux.
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So a few days ago the family and I were on a road trip. After driving for close to three hours we ran into a problem. We were doing about 75, which is about 3000 rpms with the 4.6L, When we dropped from 3k to about 400 and started to lose speed. I pushed the gas peddle all the way to the floor and no response at all. I pulled over and it had a very rough and choppy idle and it wanted to die. It eventually did. I checked all fuses with nothing found and i even hit the fuel pump shutoff reset. It started back up no problem and we got about 5 miles before it the exact same thing. Idle at about 400 rpms and no throttle response at all.
I shut it off and called a tow truck. It started up and they drove it onto the back of the tow truck and off at the local mechanic. They spent 2 whole days trying to diagnose it and even drove it for 4 hours straight, no issues. They pressure checked every system they could and tested every sensor they could. They could not find a single thing wrong with it. I drove it home 3 hours away with no issues. I got home and let it sit for about 10 minutes before I had to leave. I didn't make it more than 2 miles before the same issue popped up. I pulled over. Shut it off for 15 minutes and it started right up and drove home.
It threw 4 codes.
1. Pressure control solenoid malfunction
2. Fuel pump Primary circuit malfunction
3. Gear 3 ratio incorrect
4. Gear 4 Ratio incorrect
I've had 2 mechanics tell me its a PCM issue.
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I have a 1986 Toyota Camry. I drove it for a year with no additional problems than when I bought it. I replaced the clutch when I bought it. However, It recently has had a new problem. The clutch pedal is going directly to the floor with no effort whatsoever. When this happened in the past it was simply out of clutch fluid, I was aware of the leak when I bought the car. Now it doesn't seem to be using any at all and I can only put it in gear when it is turned off.
I have replaced the clutch master cylinder myself and it didn't seem to solve the problem. I have tried to bleed the new master cylinder but no fluid is being drawn into the master cylinder from the fill cup on the top of it. I'm not even sure that this is the problem. I noticed that the place where the MC is attached to the clutch pedal is adjustable. Could this be a matter of adjusting this to drive the plunger inside the MC all the way forward? I am also having trouble understanding the whole clutch system. The MC doesn't seem to have anything to do with engaging or disengaging the clutch. The only thing it attaches to is the clutch pedal. Where does the clutch fluid go? Is there another place to fill Manual transmission fluid?
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We have a 2000 Honda Accord, standard shift, with 105,000 miles on it. The clutch has been sticking at the floor on random occasions (especially on hot days). Our mechanic (Honda Dealer) has not been able to correct the problem. Last summer he changed the clutch fluid and said that looked like the problem as it was vey dark. It corrected the problem for a few months but now it is happening again in the cold weather. It can happen at any time you depress the clutch, even while shifting when moving. Of course, then it is very difficult to get the car in gear. Our only solution is to manually pick up the clutch with hand or foot and this is dangerous in traffic.
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Experienced a chatter in the clutch pedal with the a/c on when clutch pedal is pushed in. To me it feels like the throw bearing isn't disengaging the clutch fully, plus my clutch is kind of high once full disengage unless its normal.
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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Put in a brand new Clutch Masters stage 2 kit with flywheel and throwout bearing. Also installed ecs bleeder block. Got everything back together and bled the system. But the pedal is still sticking to the floor with no pedal feel at all.
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1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
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It was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
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So... I have a 99 Subaru Outback 5 speed that I love the hell out of. Anyway, recently my clutch pedal has started momentarily sticking mid return. The clutch appears to be fully engaged, but the pedal sticks, or hangs for a moment before popping the rest of the way up. Once, and only once so far, it stuck completely just for a moment before returning after being depressed again. I'm not sure how concerned I should be, and given that the car is new to me I'm still trying to familiarize myself with it.
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Car: 03 20th with 6spd 02m trans.
Problem: Go out in the morning esp when really cold, and the clutch pedal drops to the floor. No resistance at all on it as if it's no connected to anything. I pull it back up and pedal starts to build pressure.
I thought slave cylinder searching on here shows a high probability of that being the issue. But the strange thing is the pedal feels like it's sticking at the midway point. Once pressure is built up to normal pedal pressure, if I opush it down and slide my foot off it, it will literally rise fast and the feels like it catches on something and pops to the normal top position.
So my thought here is that the Master cylinder is sticking somewhere inside and causing the pedal to hang up. The weird part though is that once the car is warmed up the problem starts to diminish. But if I drive long enough on the highway (not shifting gears) the clutch seems to start losing pressure all over again.
I have also had to top off the brake fluid reservoir about 3 times in 2 months. What is the root cause here?
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I have a 2002, Toyota Tacoma, extended cab, V6, 4WD. I purchased this new back in CA, before moving to CO. When the weather turns cold, a noise begins to start. The noise appears primarily when I am decelerating (just taking my foot off the gas). The noise sounds like chains rattling. I would equate the noise to the sound a diesel pickup makes (low rumble). The noise sounds (to me) like its coming from behind the passenger's seat in the floor. The noise is quite loud (people walking on the street can hear it and its apparent something is not right with the truck). The only constant thing is that it must be cold out. So, when spring comes, I tend to forget about the issue. We are having snow this weekend in Denver and its starting again. I have taken this to multiple mechanics over the years. They tighten everything up, but cannot seem to find or fix the problem.
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My 2010 RAV4 is not on the recall VIN number list but it has been surging occasionally since I got it in May. Dlr says No report of that. 2 days ago as I was braking from 20 mph to stop, the engine suddenly reved up fast and roared, I had to stand on the brake, fought it hard, acceleration ceased and I avoided rearending car ahead. Dlr & Toyota in a quandary, can't find problem, they still have vehicle, I have loaner. I'm afraid to drive it.
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I just recently purchased my 1999 ford F-250 superduty V8 5.4 5 speed with 144,00 miles and I'm having a issue with the clutch pedal sticking in and then it will pop out after a couple seconds. It will stick more when I come to a light and have my foot on the clutch but the pickup drives fine and there is no slipping of the clutch. I have never experienced this issue before in any rig I've owned. so I'm a little lost at the moment.
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So, I bought the truck used and everything about this truck is great minus the shifting difficulties in first. With the truck at a dead stop, the clutch depressed, and the shifter in neutral it can be near impossible to shift into 1st (it's possible with a lot - emphasis on a lot - of force). No grinding, clashing, knocking in the shift knob - it just wont go into gear. I can shift into 2nd-5th and reverse without too much difficulty. If the truck is in motion, once the vehicle gets between 2-5mph I can easily downshift into 1st. However, if I shift out of 1st and let the truck sit for, say, 5 seconds it is often very challenging to get the truck back into 1st.
I have tried to look up this problem online with limited success. What I found was it could be caused by:- something wrong with the clutch installation- a need to bleed the clutch (it's hydraulic and, although the reservoir is full, the fluid is a bit dirty)- perhaps a faulty clutch master cylinder- play in the clutch linkage- a broken spring in the pressure plate- a bearing that is starting to go out- worn synchros in 1st.
I am a machinist, not a mechanic, so it's hard for me to evaluate these ideas (beyond the cost associated with each). Given my limited knowledge of transmissions and my good mechanic friend's opinion, I think it's a broken spring in the pressure plate.
1990 Toyota Pickup 4x4 manual transmission. This is the original transmission in the truck, it has not been rebuilt (but has been maintained with regular fluid changes), and has a tad over 158,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2004 2.7 liter toyota tacoma with 135000 miles. the head cracked and was leaking coolant into the #2 cylinder. it wasn't catastrophic and was still running with just a stumbling idle at start up when cold. That said i took it apart, found the crack and I am in the process of replacing the head at home, my mechanic did all the diagnosis work.i don't remember overheating or when the head could have cracked.
Question is.....what should i check or replace while the head is off so that i don't crack my new head??there were never puddles of coolant under the truck. I just don't want to replace my head and crack a new one.
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Brake pedal goes to floor with no resistance first time I start in am. Rest of day all normal. Started when cold weather came. Fluid ok, no leaks seen.
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So my clutch has been acting up lately. When it sits for a few hours the clutch engagement point seemed to creep down but over the course of 35 minutes of driving would work its way back up again. Today it was unusually low and wouldn't let me get it into gear. I tried pumping it a few times and realized it wasn't coming back up all the way, I pulled it up and then tried again and it just dropped right to the floor where it now sits. Fortunately I was at work and can hang here until my ride arrives, and will just wait until late tomorrow night to drive it to my shop without stopping...
My guess is I need a new clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in there although its a bit old so I'll be changing that when I change the cylinder. Could it be the slave cylinder? If so is it a bear to change that? (do I need to drop the trans?)
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