Toyota - Tacoma :: 2001 - Occasionally Pops Out Of Third Gear Back Into Neutral
Aug 6, 2013
I drive a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 5 Speed manual and as recently as last Friday it seems to have developed a problem with third gear. Occasionally the gearshift will actually pop out of third gear back into neutral. It has happened randomly, but also it has happened at least once when I hit a rather large bump, it seemed to have literally knocked it loose from third gear. On one occasion I tested to see if I could pull it out of third gear without stepping on the clutch, and it worked once, but I have tried it again and it doesn't always let me.
To counter this problem I have been just pushing on the stick all the while in third gear to prevent it from popping out and that seems to work, but I'd like to find a real fix for it, and as usual, if possible, a cheap one.
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When temperature surpasses 90 degrees inside car (especially while sitting parked while I'm at work) I have problems getting shifter to stay in gear. When I shift in D or R the shifter immediately shifts back to neutral. I found I can hold the shifter in the desired direction and the car goes like normal.
I tried a test of leaving windows slightly open and found the car cooler inside and the gear shift problems did not occur.
The dealership says the gear shift is electronic, no gears. Is there a switch for this under the panel by the gear shift? I have a 2008 Prius, that I recently purchased used. My wife has a 2005 Prius that we purchased new and have never had an issue like this.
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I have a 2005 Elantra GT hatchback that I love with a 5 speed transmission. Lately every time I'm in 2nd gear, the transmission will pop out of 2nd into neutral. This only happens in 2nd gear. I heard it could be the shift collar (i.e. teeth?) that aren't grabbing in that gear.
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I have an '04 TRD Doublecab 4x4. I first started hearing a "clunk" upon acceleration, but only occasionally. It started getting worse and would happen pretty much every time I accelerate (although it never got louder, just more frequent). It usually only happens after a full stop (or near stop like in stop an go traffic), and I'd hear it pretty much right when I step on the gas. It seems like it has something to do with the A arms moving forward and back. When you accel, the rear wheels push the vehicle, essentially "sucking" the front wheels back slightly. When in 4wd, the noise is still there. It is quite obvious it's coming from the front right corner. I'm usually pretty handy with a wrench, so I decided to swap the upper A-arm bushings and upper ball joint (ball joint was leaking grease). Noise is still there. I ran out of time/motivation, so I took it to the Toyota dealer.
Here's what they did: -replaced front right coil-over, said it was "loose". That didn't work, so they put the old one back on. -tightened bumper etc..., didn't work. -then they removed the REAR drive-line and put it in 4x4 and drove it around. They say that "fixed" the problem since the noise went away. They were pretty adamant it was the drive line, but I didn't believe them since the noise is OBVIOUSLY coming from the front right. It just seems odd that it'd be the drive line. I took it home and tried what they said, I took the drive line off and drove it around in 4wd. They weren't lying, the noise went away. But since a good friend has an identical truck (but an '03) I switched our drive lines and the noise came back (HA! I was right!!). Driving in "front wheel drive" (no drive line) makes the front wheels "pull" the truck forward, vs in rear wheel drive, the rear wheels "push" the truck, and thus the front wheels will move backward slightly because of wheel/bearing friction.
I think it has something to do with when the front wheel is forced "backwards" but as far as I cal tell, all the suspension components are intact and show no signs of looseness. I can now occasionally hear the noise when under slight accel going over studder bumps like street reflectors or something (but only rarely, it's almost impossible to duplicate that on command. Makes me think a suspension piece is loose (shock/spring or loose bushing), but I NEVER hear the noise under braking, and rarely hear it on those studder bumps (and only for a split second). If it were a loose bushing, wouldn't I hear the clunk under accel AND decel (A arm moving back and forth)??? So I'm basically stumped (so was the dealer!). Ball joints appear fine, wheel bearing has no slop (that I can tell), and it has brand new upper urithane bushings and a new upper ball joint. I KNOW it's not the shock/spring, b/c I even swapped the left/right, and the noise is still there (and didn't move to the other side).
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I have a problem with my reverse in a 5 speed 105 hp Tdi. It jumps out of place when i try to move the car, makes a loud grinding noise and pops back in, I'm guessing the selectors are worn or maybe the teeth are too. My question is, how hard is it to replace the selectors (if it is the selectors that are worn of course), what is the cost of getting it done in the shop and most important does this sign mean I will have the same problems with the rest of the gear in nearby future?
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I was told that fixing the reverse gear can be done without dropping the transmission. Is there anywhere I can see a video of this? My shifter locked up out of nowhere and when I got it back loose it started clicking in reverse only when I back up.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with a manual transmission that will not go into gear. How can you tell if it is the clutch or the slave cylinder that is bad?
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The shifter will not usually stay in 5th gear for very long. The clutch and flywheel were replaced a few weeks ago just before i purchased the car but this problem has only cropped up in the last week. Could it be shifter linkage adjustment?
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I have a 94 4x4 v6 Toyota pickup the check engine light came on while I was driving it 20 miles later it shifted from 5 into 4.the tranny shifts smoothly into the other gears with no problem but now it won't go in the 4th or 5thmy transmission fluid is passed a full line...
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Truck has many issues, among them loose steering. I took it in for a checkup, and it needs a new steering gear. How difficult are they to replace?
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I have a 2008 manual transmission toyota tacoma about 50k miles. I am in vegas for the summer and since being here in the last couple weeks when I just start driving and go from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a grinding sound. Also a little bit when in 3rd gear. After the first couple minutes of driving it doesnt do that at all. What it may be or what I can do to alleviate the problem without a shop selling me a new transmission.
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My manual transmission got stuck in 4th because of a melted oil trough sticking between the gears. I got all the plastic out, and the dog clutches/collars are "free." But, I don't know how to put the gears back into neutral. When it's reassembled, the stick doesn't work to change the gears. How can I get the gearbox back into neutral?
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After taking my 2001 Toyota Tacoma into my Toyota dealer for a routine oil change they informed me that I had a leaky valve cover gasket and that it needed to be replaced. The repair would have been expensive, and since it was just a leak I decided to not make the repair. I have been driving with the "leak" since May of 2013 and have put about 29,000 miles on the truck. I have never had to add oil. There is no oil spot on the concrete where I park the car and I do not smell burning oil when the truck is running. If this thing is leaking, what the heck is leaking out of it? And if I haven't had to add oil or any other fluids do I even need to replace it?
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I have a 92 Toyota Celica GT five speed that won't going to gear occasionally. I can drive several months at a time without having a problem and then all of a sudden when I start the car to put it in gear and I have to literally force it into gear or turn off the car and put it into gear. I can go 5,6,7 months at a time without having a problem. Then all of a sudden it won't work. I would say within the last year I have had the problem I'm maybe three times. The last being yesterday since about September. I have had the car for 10 years and have replaced the clutch maybe three years ago. I have been driven a manual shift car since I was 16. Last year around March I replaced the slave cylinder and the problem seem to go away. Do I really need another clutch?
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My 2001 Tacoma drives well most of the time, but when in 4 wheel drive low range, low gear, in demanding circumstances like heavy snow, it will buck, jump, act like the clutch is alternately and rapidly grabbing and releasing (but I'm pretty sure it's not actually that). Tires are good. Four cylinder, standard transmission.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
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2011 Prius II, purchased 2/2012. Driving down the highway, and the car pops itself into Neutral and the check hybrid system warning light comes on on. Had to have it towed to the closest dealership who pretty much told me it must have been my fault; I must have hit the park button driving down the road. However, about an hour prior to getting on the highway, we were driving down the road, heard a beep and started decelerating. I noticed the car had some how ended up in Neutral. Shifted it back to drive kept on our merry way. Half hour later we pull into a gas station, and the park button is not working. The only way we could get the car into park was by turning the car off (pushing the power button).
Once we got back in the car, we checked the park button and it seemed to be working again, so we took off down the highway. We only got about a mile before the car popped back into neutral, the check hybrid system light came on, and we could not keep the car in drive (by shifting it back into drive) because within one second the car would pop back into neutral. The day previous to all this, my car had just had its 5k mile maintenance.
The next day I didn't even make it out of my drive way before the car pops itself back into neutral, but no codes or anything pop up. Put it back into park and drive to work without further incidents. I bring the car to the dealership where I purchased it and they opened a ticket with Toyota drive it for 100 miles and cannot recreate the issue and Toyota is unaware of any issues with park button or the spontaneous neutral shifting. This was 2 weeks ago.
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OK, my daughter bought a clunker. Engine compression tested good, and transmission shifted fine so I proceeded to fix the car. Everything went fine until I got to the passenger side axle. I've always reused the inboard "tulip", and have never pulled one. Until today. The boot on the remanufactured shaft would not fit over the old tulip. I rented a slide hammer with a cv remover attachment and removed the old tulip. I then installed the new shaft, using a hammer on the end of the shaft to reseat the new shaft in the transmission. I didn't hit it hard. Now the car makes a horrible groaning sound when I put it in reverse. When I shift back to park, it sounds like a gear grinding. Also, the car rolls when its in park as if it was in neutral. I'm totally stumped as to what I did wrong. Did I destroy the transmission???
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I have a 2005 Sante Fe 2.7 4WD with 168K miles. Last week I'm driving at 45 mph with cruise control on and it just downshifted to 3rd and then back to 4th in about 3 seconds.
It did this on the highway at 55 as well. I used the manual shift option and it works perfectly. It still shifts smoothly in auto mode but around every 5 minutes or so it will downshift and back again.
Here's what I know.
1. Using automatic mode in Drive it shifts smoothly from a stop to speed but then downshifts and back occasionally. It does this with Cruise Control on and off.
2. Using the manual mode and shifting on my own works perfectly. Even when the cruise control is on it doesn't skip or downshift.
What it could be?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Rav 4 Sport with 160,000 miles. I take good care of it, as it does me. All of a sudden, while driving on CA freeway, it seemed to slip out of gear into neutral--no power when accelerator pressed to the floor. The power came back quickly, but this happened again the next day, with no apparent cause. I took it to my mechanic and, as I drove the surface streets, there was a knocking sound.
My mechanic said the initial problem was a transmission issue and referred me to another mechanic. And, he said the knocking may be a thrown rod(?). The second mechanic confirmed the first guy's transmission assessment (he's a transmission specialist, so of course, he'd see a transmission issue) and said he'd need to fix that before addressing the knocking. And, he said to fix the transmission (including replacing the computer that drives the tranny).
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I was on my way to the store earlier today. Started the car, put in reverse, backed out, no problem---just like any other day. Put in first gear then started rolling. As I neared the RPM to shift to second, the gearbox was wobbly (which was strange), put it into second, then I had to downshift. It felt wierd. I pulled over. Car only goes into 1st and 2nd gear, I have no neutral and can't get into the other gears.
Some nice guy came up to me to see what the problem was. He told me it might be my clutch cable. He was nice enough to stop traffic for me so I could flip a u-turn in 1st gear to head back home.
So I'm home now, clutch can go into 1st or 2nd. Clutch feels normal, gearbox (where shifter is) is loose. I have a 2001 Saturn SL, I just hit 200,000 miles. I love this car. Runs great until today, just cant get into other gears or reverse.
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