Toyota - Tacoma :: 1999 - Lower Idle When First Startup
Apr 9, 2013
I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma pickup, 5 speed stick 4 cylinder. When I first start it up it runs at a lower idle than it should. But as soon as it warms up just a bit the idle goes to about 12-15K rpm. Also, when it sits during the day and it's warm outside it will start up with the fast idle.
I don't know if this is coincidence or not but, I found a rabbit sleeping under the hood during the winter (this has been going on for a while). The rabbit chewed through a vacuum hose and a spark plug wire. The vacuum hose was split right by the fitting so I just cut off the 1 1/2" of tubing and re-attached it. The spark plug wire I didn't know was damaged until I drove it for about 5 miles or so when I finally got out to see why it was still running bad. I then had to drive another 5 or so miles to the auto parts store to replace it. I have replaced all the spark plug wires just to be sure. What this would be?
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Had a tune-up and a mechanic also looked at the accelerator pedalfor some reason, but no report regarding the fuel injection or regulatory components which I suppose should have signaled an issue when the computer diagnostic was run if I am to understand the mechanic's position.
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This truck misses in the morning when I first start it. It acts like it did when the catalytic converter went bad. Only so much gas can be given, before it sputters and misses. This only happens when it is humid or raining. When the truck warms up, the problem goes away, and once it is warm, it doesn't happen again during the day. I would suspect an exhaust problem, but I just replaced the entire system from the exhaust manifold back.I'm now suspecting a problem with the ignition, but I don't know where to start to find that problem... 1995 Tacoma i4 5spd manual 2wd...
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My Tacoma makes very loud roaring and whistling noises mostly when I am idle and the brake is engaged while the clutch is depressed. Sometimes, she'll rear and balk continuously --- even more loudly --- depending on the outside temperature and her level of activity. I need to get her fixed, but live in the New York City area and am a broke graduate student terrified of getting ripped off. Do you think it's just belts? My transmission (sometimes I can feel the noise in my gear shifter)?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma manual shift and when driving with the air conditioning on my truck makes an odd noise. The noise is very sporatic but seems to happen most at about 50MPH and 70MPH. I am going to try and type out the sound...."Chht" It is quick and only happens once at a time. The power of the engine drops when it happens as though it may cut out. But it is very quick.
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A couple of days ago I removed the key from my 1999 Toyota Tacoma (175,000 mies)and the power stayed on. Specifically, the ignition was in the proper "Lock" position when the key was removed, but the radio continued to play and the dash clock stayed lit.
Normally, prior to this change, the radio turns off with the ignition being rotated to "Lock" and the clock LED turns off. There hasn't been any abnormal force applied to the ignition. As well, I haven't noticed any other electrical issues, but it still is operating in this abnormal way.
After 175,000 miles worth of starts has my ignition switch worn to the point of "shorting on"?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4X4 pickup that is running terrible at any RPM under 1800. It is also bad under acceleration at any RPM, or when the a/c is on. The truck is showing no problem codes at all. I have been throwing parts at it with no success. I have replaced in order - the air cleaner, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and even the timing belt.
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A couple of years ago I began to hear a high-pitched, metallic, chirping/chittering/rustling noise - sort of like tiny birds or insects - coming from somewhere behind me in my 1999 Toyota Tacoma pickup. The sound would only occur at speeds between about 30 and 55 mph, and would become louder after a long period of driving.
Pressing down the accelerator would bring it on, but it would be loudest and chirpiest during the act of letting up on the accelerator. Coasting down a mountain road with my foot off the gas after a long day of driving made it very loud!
I've had a couple of mechanics listen to it (one elderly car guy couldn't hear sounds that high-pitched) and have sat my brother in the back of the truck to try to figure out where it's coming from. The noise is still there, and can occur at lower speeds than formerly. In fact it's there pretty continuously above about 15 mph, but still varies with acceleration as above.
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I have a 99 tacoma with a 3.4 L automatic with 160,000 miles. For the past year my truck will idle rough and quit after revving high. After driving around for a few min its fine until I accelerate hard and get it up to about 4 to 5 thousand rpms. I recently changed the timing belt and accidentally got it about two teeth off. While it was like that, it didnt have much power and it was very loud, but it didnt have the problem. Once I fixed it and got it timed right it started having the problem again.
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My 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
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I have a 1999 toyota tacoma 70,000/mi. While idling, at random intervals, truck surges forward. Have to stay on the brake. Cannot drive in winter. Took to Toyota dealer and other mechanics... described problem and that A/C seems to be on all the time. No one has been able to fix. My brother disconnected the A/C and surging has stopped, but I need a better fix that will allow my using AC.
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1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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I installed a new engine in my pre runner. upon completion and a thorough check of fluids connections and such we lite it off ran beautiful and everything seemed to function.Put the hood back on and installed the skid plates and got ready to pull it out of the garage that's when things went pear shaped!!!My son fired it up it ran for a few seconds then shut its self off. the idiot lights would stay on even after you turn off the key and remove it.
Put the key back in turn it to run but not to start position and that will reset everything. the only thing un effected is the door lights. if the key is in it you can step on the brake and the ac clutch comes in and everything goes goofy. turn the key off then back on and try any function be it headlights ac brakes pedal or attempting to start and it goes all goofy. Where to start looking. Ran great for an hour before all of this started.
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My 2012 with 5300 miles on it (oil change at 4400 miles) is now making a pretty significant lower end knocking noise at WARM STARTUP, as in when the car sits for about 10 minutes when I go into the store. It lasts for about two seconds, but it's significant and it's loud. It seems to have started about 500 miles ago and I can't say it was due to the oil change. Oil level is full and clean - I check it every weekend, even on a new car. Could this be a timing chain noise? Don't know. All I do know for certain is that this is very irritating and embarrassing for a new car. People around my car when I start it look at me like and seem to say "Really?"
Cold startup on my car is actually surprisingly quiet, compared to my Nissan Frontier V6.
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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What causes elevated engine idle when cold or initial startup? Asking another way, what would cause it not to have the elevated idle on start up?
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Per the instructions I used upfitter #4 and a 21k resistor. High idle works, slight delay and gradual ramp up to 1150 rpm, but why does the wiper turn on for just one wipe now at startup?
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I have a 2013 Tacoma TRD with 18k miles, totally stock after driving awhile intermittently the front left wheel has been locking up like I tapped the brake just on that wheel. I've taken it to Toyota and they cant duplicate the problem. This last weekend I drove several hundred miles and the right side started doing it about two to three seconds after the left side for about five minutes then ran fine. It actually makes a chirping noise and slightly jerks the wheel in that direction. This has only happened going over 65mph. Since Toyota claims to have never seen this problem there basically telling Me to drive the truck until it gets worse. They checked the brakes and bearings out.
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I've got a 1996 Tacoma - manual transmission, 4 cylinder, 2.7 liter engine with close to 170,000 miles on it - owned it for 10 years and 100,000 miles. Wonderful, great truck. Except.....
It has two starting problems and I can't seem to sort them out. The first is it's incredibly hard to start when the outside air is hot. Living in San Francisco, I usually forget about this problem until I drive to the central valley to visit my mom in August. Nothing like coming out of the rest stop, trying to start the engine and then having the feeling of doooh! again!. Seems to be worse when the outside air temp is over 85 or 90 degrees and the engine has been running than sits for 5-10 minutes. Cranks fine but won't catch. When it finally catches, it's like it's really slow to fire - can't quite explain it, but it's like it's doing a lot of thinking about actually running and has to talk itself into the idea. Can take 5-10 minutes to finally get it going, but usually 30 seconds to a minute. Always worried this'll be the time it doesn't want to go. My mechanic has looked at it a few times - but it's almost impossible to recreate in San Francisco when I get home due to the lack of warm days.
Second problem is trouble cold starting. When I come out in the morning, the engine takes two or three attempts to get it to start. Once it again, it cranks fine, but it's as if there's no fuel getting to the engine. If I just keep cranking, it won't fire but if I crank it, turn it off, crank it, turn it off and crank it again it'll always catch on the second or third go. Once the engine is at temp, it seems like less of a problem and easier starting. My mechanic say's "It's an old truck and it always starts eventually, so don't worry about it."
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I have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with a manual transmission that will not go into gear. How can you tell if it is the clutch or the slave cylinder that is bad?
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I have a wobble in steering at 55 mph and have gone thru 2 sets of tires. After 1st set i changed front struts, no luck . When i rotate tires from rear to front it goes away for 6 months and tires start to wear wavy and wobble starts.
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